ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
02-24-2011, 07:11 PM
#1581
Registered User
OK good now that we got the pitman out of the equation then anything you change up stream to get the wheel straight is ok.
FYI, my steeriny wheel is still of about a 1/8 turn from when I changed the pitman arm on mine.
hahaha
FYI, my steeriny wheel is still of about a 1/8 turn from when I changed the pitman arm on mine.
hahaha
02-25-2011, 03:08 AM
#1582
Registered User
you should be good then man, pull the 2 bolts after marking it, and again if the steering wheel isn't straight, you can always pull the steering wheel off (a puller for this helps tremendously) and put it back on straight.
pulling the wheel and putting back on straight should help you too, xxxtreme22r.
FYI, my steeriny wheel is still of about a 1/8 turn from when I changed the pitman arm on mine. hahaha
02-25-2011, 03:20 AM
#1583
Registered User
In my case that coupler is a no go though. Not without tearing apart the coupler though. That I know, because my steering shaft was a little too long for the 92 box I had put into mine, so I just had to squish the 4 bolt damper a little more than I would have liked.
02-25-2011, 09:47 AM
#1584
Hey Guys, .......SSUUUUUUUUUP? LOL.
Ok, well, I FINALLY got out there, last night again, and pulled the coupling from the intermediate shaft, after marking it all, then pulled the yolk off the worm shaft, .....then re-aligned it as best as I can. I think I got pretty close. I had some video, but THIS STUPID CAMERA!.... ok, it's partially my Italian Sausages for Fingers, but that's besides the point! lol... No, really, when holding this camera, in the most comfortable way, my finger sometimes is RIGHT OVER THE MIC! grrr! So, today, I'll get one if I can that will be clear and audible, on how to do this procedure(I'll be sure to mention "ONLY IF YOU'VE NOT REMOVED THE PITMAN ARM), as that is CRUCIAL!
Ok, so, now to flush out what was left in that box(looked like steering fluid, OF COURSE, lol). Then continue in bleeding it.
GUYSSSSSSSSSSS;
I'm reading in the FSM, "Pull the reservoir return line off and plug off where you pulled it from, then turn the motor over, with the reservoir full, and turn off the motor after 1-2 seconds" >>>>>>>>>>>>????????????? i GET IT, honest... but this is just really difficult to do with that hose, being so non-pliable, while trying to pump it into something while I'm doing this by myself.... Understand? I really had a hard time, last time doing this, getting THAT line to point downward, into a receptacle. Any ideas?
And, I KNOW, some will say "Just bleed it per instructions, flushing what you can".....but that's just it, guys, I DID THAT, in the first place, and I still wound up with WORSE STEERING THAN I'D EVER HAD with this truck.
Thanks, Yotatechomies! lol
Mark
Ok, well, I FINALLY got out there, last night again, and pulled the coupling from the intermediate shaft, after marking it all, then pulled the yolk off the worm shaft, .....then re-aligned it as best as I can. I think I got pretty close. I had some video, but THIS STUPID CAMERA!.... ok, it's partially my Italian Sausages for Fingers, but that's besides the point! lol... No, really, when holding this camera, in the most comfortable way, my finger sometimes is RIGHT OVER THE MIC! grrr! So, today, I'll get one if I can that will be clear and audible, on how to do this procedure(I'll be sure to mention "ONLY IF YOU'VE NOT REMOVED THE PITMAN ARM), as that is CRUCIAL!
Ok, so, now to flush out what was left in that box(looked like steering fluid, OF COURSE, lol). Then continue in bleeding it.
GUYSSSSSSSSSSS;
I'm reading in the FSM, "Pull the reservoir return line off and plug off where you pulled it from, then turn the motor over, with the reservoir full, and turn off the motor after 1-2 seconds" >>>>>>>>>>>>????????????? i GET IT, honest... but this is just really difficult to do with that hose, being so non-pliable, while trying to pump it into something while I'm doing this by myself.... Understand? I really had a hard time, last time doing this, getting THAT line to point downward, into a receptacle. Any ideas?
And, I KNOW, some will say "Just bleed it per instructions, flushing what you can".....but that's just it, guys, I DID THAT, in the first place, and I still wound up with WORSE STEERING THAN I'D EVER HAD with this truck.
Thanks, Yotatechomies! lol
Mark
02-25-2011, 10:50 AM
#1585
Registered User
on pirate they suggested not using the return line thing, but using same idea but instead of taking off the return line, using the "set screw" looking thing on top of the box with the lock nut. loosen lock nut, loosen set screw, fluid comes out...yada yada...maybe that would be easier?
or also read something about putting the end of the return line in a container filled with atf, don't know if that would make it easier for you....
or also read something about putting the end of the return line in a container filled with atf, don't know if that would make it easier for you....
Last edited by de6w6it; 02-25-2011 at 10:52 AM.
02-25-2011, 11:10 AM
#1586
on pirate they suggested not using the return line thing, but using same idea but instead of taking off the return line, using the "set screw" looking thing on top of the box with the lock nut. loosen lock nut, loosen set screw, fluid comes out...yada yada...maybe that would be easier?
or also read something about putting the end of the return line in a container filled with atf, don't know if that would make it easier for you....
or also read something about putting the end of the return line in a container filled with atf, don't know if that would make it easier for you....
Well, not really concerned with what's "easiest"(as you can tell by now, I'm sure, hahaha)...... Not even sure what that is, hehe. Jk, but honestly?>>>> the bolts and even flange nuts on the top of the Gear are SO FROZEN, ....I'm just a lil concerned that something could strip out, etc., ya know?
I do know the nut/set screw you're speaking off, ....was checking that out when I had it on the ground. However, as I said, ... yeah, lil paranoid on messing with that. I know it's there for that, but yeah.
So, since the box was still full of fluid, before I put it in, I should be ok trying to flush it through, using the pumps pressure while just turning the motor over(coil disconnected), then refill reservoir, turn over again, until I get nothing but ATF coming out, clean. Then, bleed it per instructions.
What would you do, D? Not putting it on you, just curious.
02-25-2011, 01:41 PM
#1587
Registered User
i'd probably pull the reservoir return line, stuff some rubber something or whatever in the now hole in the reservoir, put the end of the return line in a bucket/bottle of atf, below the fluid level, and then do what you are saying about pulling the coil wire and turning it over a few times until clean and no bubbles in bottle/bucket, and then bleed. sounds like a good plan to me man, i think you got it 
02-25-2011, 02:25 PM
#1588
UPDATE!!!!!:
It was, in fact, a bad gear box! IOW;.......I HAVE MY POWER STEERING BACK!
Everything below, for the most part, is mostly for 86-95 22RE POWER STEERING SYSTEM. The gear box on the 85 and earlier trucks and 4Runners are DEFINITELY different,(AS IS THE 3VZE, REGARDING THE PUMP) requiring different tests, etc. Bleeding is mostly the same. If you go by the Haynes, READ CAREFULLY, as it tells you, in the Gear Box section of the 4WD, "This section is ONLY FOR 85 AND EARLIER GEAR BOX. Refer to Chapter 10A, 2WD Power Steering, for the 86-95 Vehicles w/4WD".... YEAH, they couldn't make that more confusing, going back and forth for torque values, etc., etc., ....whatever, spilled milk, eh? hahaha.
A crude but I BELIEVE effective way to test this(Gear Box) is, ...Jack up the front, Be sure the box is full of fluid, pull the yolk from the shaft(or remove the box if you've ran out of options as to what is wrong), and with a thick/folded up towel and a socket that fits on the end(using a round ratchet wrench) turn the worm shaft back and forth.(you can feel SO MUCH MORE than when you're doing it from the steering wheel) If you feel binding, it's worth investigating further(OR YOU MIGHT JUST CHASE YOUR TAIL FOR DAYS, AS I DID! LOL). I, of course, had to remove the box to find out, because I'd eliminated every other culprit.
Before even doing the aforementioned, above, .... Try bleeding the box, as Dewit Mentioned, but be careful to avoid stripping or rounding out the flange/lock nut-w/bleeder screw.(It looks similar, somewhat, to a valve adjustment nut and screw, on top of the box.) Mine would NOT BUDGE, ...even put my torque wrench on it in reverse to 40#....NUTTIN! lol. I will be doing an instructional video, hoping to save SOMEONE, anyone the trouble and chasing of ones own tail that I just endured, hahaha. Just trying to plan out exactly how to do the video, so I can cover everything without making it too long. (How to remove the Pump, the torque values of EVERYTHING pertinent-MANY ARE TORQUE VALUE/IMPORTANT!,...how to Bleed, etc. etc.)
***********************************************
What I did, in this case(after the new box was in) was as follows....
FLUSHING FLUID AND MORE;
FIRST, JACK UP THE FRONT END, SUPPORT WITH STANDS! HAVE PLENTY OF CHEVRON D3 OR OTHER COMPATIBLE W/DEXTRON 2 ATF FLUID HANDY, RAGS, BUCKETS/CONTAINERS AS WELL.... THEN;
1. Box installed, filled the box, through the holes, turned the WORM SHAFT, let out the existing air, then stopped before it was up to the threads.
2. Filled BOTH lines that go to the Box, then capped them off at the tops before installing them into the pump and return line of the reservoir.
3. Cap Reservoir Return inlet, tight, then fill reservoir 80% full(If you overfill, it WILL come out the top and all over the place as you're turning the wheel to bleed the first times). CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR BETWEEN EACH STEP!!!! BE SURE TO KEEP IT AT LEAST 80% FULL!!!!
4. With Return line(hose that goes into upper inlet on reservoir) placed into a container of D3-ATF, be sure the coil wire is not connected, then turn over the motor several times.(Until you see no more air coming out)
5. If step #4 does not generate enough pressure to push everything, including ALL AIR, through the Pump, through the box and out of the return line that you have submerged, .....then you will have to; RECONNECT COIL AND START MOTOR, LETTING IT RUN NO MORE THAN 1000RPM for NO MORE THAN 1-2 SECONDS.... Kill motor. This will allow MOST of the air to be forced into the bleeding apparatus that you've set up with the return line.)
6. CLEAN OFF, THEN Reconnect the return line to the reservoir, AFTER LETTING THE RESERVOIR RETURN LINE INLET DRAIN INTO YOUR BLEEDING BUCKET OR ANOTHER RECEPTACLE.
7. Refill the reservoir to the recommended "COLD LEVEL" marker on the dipstick, at least, then procede to bleed the System, further.............
**********************************************
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM;
With the truck still on stands;
1. ENGINE OFF; Turn the wheel from lock to lock, at least 3-4 times(The reason you don't do more is because, IN CASE you have a big air pocket, the fluid level dropping dramatically wont effect your attempting to bleed). Check fluid level and refill as necessary. Do this several times, especially if you've just replaced the Steering box.
2. Turn engine on, let it run for 2-3 seconds, then kill motor. Check for foaming before moving on to step #3.
3. If foam is present after #2, wait till it dissipates, then check fluid level again, refill and RESTART ENGINE.(Look for more foaming) If not foaming at this point, with engine running, turn wheel lock to lock, 3-4 times, check for foaming AGAIN. If not, continue to add fluid as needed, and then continue to turn wheel lock to lock, 8-10 times.
4. If no foaming is present, no clusters of bubbles and no air rising from the bottom up..... NOW, drop the truck off the stands, to the ground, and with it still running, turn the wheel lock to lock several times, checking periodically for air, foaming and paying careful attention for wheel 'TENSION'. Meaning, if it's difficult to turn the wheel, with the tires on the ground, ......you MOST LIKELY still have air in the system. IF SO, .......repeat the "FLUSHING FLUID AND MORE" section.
Let me tell you why you want to take the time to repeat it, .......CUZ YOU'LL PAY, OTHERWISE, AS I DID! True, my scenario might just have been the box just couldn't take the pressure of the new pump, etc., etc., and in combination of using THE WRONG FLUID, new air introduced, yadda yadda yadda! haha...Seriously, I think my system, due to too much new pressure, the wrong fluid and 260,000 Miles, caused the Box to just finally took a dump. It was KIND OF WORKING, but I think within a short time, my issue would have gotten worse and, well, it would have blown the seals, etc..... and imagine, being in the middle of nowhere, deep in some trail, and you suddenly lose ALL POWER STEERING? Yeah, ....NO THANKS!
It was, in fact, a bad gear box! IOW;.......I HAVE MY POWER STEERING BACK!
Everything below, for the most part, is mostly for 86-95 22RE POWER STEERING SYSTEM. The gear box on the 85 and earlier trucks and 4Runners are DEFINITELY different,(AS IS THE 3VZE, REGARDING THE PUMP) requiring different tests, etc. Bleeding is mostly the same. If you go by the Haynes, READ CAREFULLY, as it tells you, in the Gear Box section of the 4WD, "This section is ONLY FOR 85 AND EARLIER GEAR BOX. Refer to Chapter 10A, 2WD Power Steering, for the 86-95 Vehicles w/4WD".... YEAH, they couldn't make that more confusing, going back and forth for torque values, etc., etc., ....whatever, spilled milk, eh? hahaha.
A crude but I BELIEVE effective way to test this(Gear Box) is, ...Jack up the front, Be sure the box is full of fluid, pull the yolk from the shaft(or remove the box if you've ran out of options as to what is wrong), and with a thick/folded up towel and a socket that fits on the end(using a round ratchet wrench) turn the worm shaft back and forth.(you can feel SO MUCH MORE than when you're doing it from the steering wheel) If you feel binding, it's worth investigating further(OR YOU MIGHT JUST CHASE YOUR TAIL FOR DAYS, AS I DID! LOL). I, of course, had to remove the box to find out, because I'd eliminated every other culprit.
Before even doing the aforementioned, above, .... Try bleeding the box, as Dewit Mentioned, but be careful to avoid stripping or rounding out the flange/lock nut-w/bleeder screw.(It looks similar, somewhat, to a valve adjustment nut and screw, on top of the box.) Mine would NOT BUDGE, ...even put my torque wrench on it in reverse to 40#....NUTTIN! lol. I will be doing an instructional video, hoping to save SOMEONE, anyone the trouble and chasing of ones own tail that I just endured, hahaha. Just trying to plan out exactly how to do the video, so I can cover everything without making it too long. (How to remove the Pump, the torque values of EVERYTHING pertinent-MANY ARE TORQUE VALUE/IMPORTANT!,...how to Bleed, etc. etc.)
***********************************************
What I did, in this case(after the new box was in) was as follows....
FLUSHING FLUID AND MORE;
FIRST, JACK UP THE FRONT END, SUPPORT WITH STANDS! HAVE PLENTY OF CHEVRON D3 OR OTHER COMPATIBLE W/DEXTRON 2 ATF FLUID HANDY, RAGS, BUCKETS/CONTAINERS AS WELL.... THEN;
1. Box installed, filled the box, through the holes, turned the WORM SHAFT, let out the existing air, then stopped before it was up to the threads.
2. Filled BOTH lines that go to the Box, then capped them off at the tops before installing them into the pump and return line of the reservoir.
3. Cap Reservoir Return inlet, tight, then fill reservoir 80% full(If you overfill, it WILL come out the top and all over the place as you're turning the wheel to bleed the first times). CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR BETWEEN EACH STEP!!!! BE SURE TO KEEP IT AT LEAST 80% FULL!!!!
4. With Return line(hose that goes into upper inlet on reservoir) placed into a container of D3-ATF, be sure the coil wire is not connected, then turn over the motor several times.(Until you see no more air coming out)
5. If step #4 does not generate enough pressure to push everything, including ALL AIR, through the Pump, through the box and out of the return line that you have submerged, .....then you will have to; RECONNECT COIL AND START MOTOR, LETTING IT RUN NO MORE THAN 1000RPM for NO MORE THAN 1-2 SECONDS.... Kill motor. This will allow MOST of the air to be forced into the bleeding apparatus that you've set up with the return line.)
6. CLEAN OFF, THEN Reconnect the return line to the reservoir, AFTER LETTING THE RESERVOIR RETURN LINE INLET DRAIN INTO YOUR BLEEDING BUCKET OR ANOTHER RECEPTACLE.
7. Refill the reservoir to the recommended "COLD LEVEL" marker on the dipstick, at least, then procede to bleed the System, further.............
**********************************************
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM;
With the truck still on stands;
1. ENGINE OFF; Turn the wheel from lock to lock, at least 3-4 times(The reason you don't do more is because, IN CASE you have a big air pocket, the fluid level dropping dramatically wont effect your attempting to bleed). Check fluid level and refill as necessary. Do this several times, especially if you've just replaced the Steering box.
2. Turn engine on, let it run for 2-3 seconds, then kill motor. Check for foaming before moving on to step #3.
3. If foam is present after #2, wait till it dissipates, then check fluid level again, refill and RESTART ENGINE.(Look for more foaming) If not foaming at this point, with engine running, turn wheel lock to lock, 3-4 times, check for foaming AGAIN. If not, continue to add fluid as needed, and then continue to turn wheel lock to lock, 8-10 times.
4. If no foaming is present, no clusters of bubbles and no air rising from the bottom up..... NOW, drop the truck off the stands, to the ground, and with it still running, turn the wheel lock to lock several times, checking periodically for air, foaming and paying careful attention for wheel 'TENSION'. Meaning, if it's difficult to turn the wheel, with the tires on the ground, ......you MOST LIKELY still have air in the system. IF SO, .......repeat the "FLUSHING FLUID AND MORE" section.
Let me tell you why you want to take the time to repeat it, .......CUZ YOU'LL PAY, OTHERWISE, AS I DID! True, my scenario might just have been the box just couldn't take the pressure of the new pump, etc., etc., and in combination of using THE WRONG FLUID, new air introduced, yadda yadda yadda! haha...Seriously, I think my system, due to too much new pressure, the wrong fluid and 260,000 Miles, caused the Box to just finally took a dump. It was KIND OF WORKING, but I think within a short time, my issue would have gotten worse and, well, it would have blown the seals, etc..... and imagine, being in the middle of nowhere, deep in some trail, and you suddenly lose ALL POWER STEERING? Yeah, ....NO THANKS!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 02-25-2011 at 02:37 PM.
02-25-2011, 04:05 PM
#1590
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: va
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hey chef glad u got it fixed. iirc time to get the gears and locker started thats whats nxt on my list. im going to start my supra afm, ball joint spacer, and shocks ordering the stuff this weekend cant wait first project ive had since i had my lil boy.
good deal. Can't remember but I think my first guess was gear box. 
02-25-2011, 09:07 PM
#1593
WOOT! HEHEHE. .... Thanks, guys, ALL OF YA!
I gotta say, this was, yet again, a REALLY frustrating one! lol. Brandon, I'm not sure on that one, but it wouldn't be the first time you've guessed right, eh? hahaha.
It's really interesting, that; After having, I believe, 5 of these rigs with 22re's, similar or identical in most cases..... I'VE NEVER had a succession of 'THIS AND THAT'ITUS' happen SO FRIGGEN FAST! HAHAHA. None of my other trucks hardly ever gave me an issue, other than..... Thermostat? lol.
But, with this one????lol.... Let's see, ......Starting January of 2010.....first to last, pretty much;
After Putting in NEW; Rotors, Calipers, Rear Wheel Cyl's, Drums, Switching to Warn Premium Manual Locking Hubs...... Things then began to show their age, lol...
1. Radiator takes a dump, fixed
2. 2 Days later, Water Pump takes a dump, fixed
3. 02 Sensor takes a dump, fixed
4. Coolant temp Sensor takes a dump, fixed
5. First alternator takes a dump, fixed
6. Motor starts leaking like a pig, front and rear, top and bottom, lol, .....rebuilt
7. On first start up, debris floats into injector #2, first intake re-tear down, re-install
8. Wrap around water pipe cleaned too well, leaks, second intake tear down, re-install
9. Oil Sending Unit springs a leak, BIG TIME, wire breaks off, ....repaired, torqued down, fixed
10. COUNTLESS WEEKS OF DIAGNOSIS OVER SERIOUS MISS, learning of almost every EFI, Emissions and Ignition components, .....basically, learning of the 22REC system. Diagnosis, CAM! Tear down, Replace CAM w/out removing head, FIXED.
11. Timing Cover Begins to leak like a pig from AC Brace Mounting Bolt, PITA, Fixed
12. Timing Cover Leak begins.... YET ANOTHER pretty decent Tear Down, re-installed w/New Chain, Steel Guides(which was my second set, after the Machinist lost mine and installed, instead, plastic guides), gears Tensioner and Timing cover, after Dropping Diff and Oil pan that's, then, re-installed with yet ANOTHER Water Pump(The Right one, this time),.....FIXED, ......ANOTHER PITA!
13. Steering Pump begins to leak like a pig, Replaced with one, which leaks from the inspection Snap Ring Hole, like a pig, FIXED. Second one fails within 48 hours, replaced with 3rd, which, by that time, is not doing it's job because I just happen to have yet another of one of THE MOST RARE items to go bad, ...THE STEERING BOX! hahaha. Now, fixed, and HOPEFULLY FOR GOOD!!!!
14. Somewhere in the midst of #13, .....SECOND Alternator takes a dump, fixed(again, with the RIGHT one! lol)
Along the way, I also did a Zuk Mod, added an LCE Header and Cold Air Intake System, and next up is...............
1. All new Control Arm Bushings, Sway Bar Bushings
2. All new Ball Joints, Uppers from Downey-Mega Travel
3. New OMEmu Nitro Front Shocks(already installed OMEmu Stabilizer)
4. Spartan Rear Locker
5. YEHAWWWWWWWWWW! hahaha
I sure hope these next endeavors will go without a hitch!
lol.....
THANKS, SO MUCH, GUYS, for egging/rooting/encouraging me on. I'm learning, ....but I think I've learned quite a bit in a year. Hope to keep learning, QUICKLY!
I gotta say, this was, yet again, a REALLY frustrating one! lol. Brandon, I'm not sure on that one, but it wouldn't be the first time you've guessed right, eh? hahaha.
It's really interesting, that; After having, I believe, 5 of these rigs with 22re's, similar or identical in most cases..... I'VE NEVER had a succession of 'THIS AND THAT'ITUS' happen SO FRIGGEN FAST! HAHAHA. None of my other trucks hardly ever gave me an issue, other than..... Thermostat? lol.
But, with this one????lol.... Let's see, ......Starting January of 2010.....first to last, pretty much;
After Putting in NEW; Rotors, Calipers, Rear Wheel Cyl's, Drums, Switching to Warn Premium Manual Locking Hubs...... Things then began to show their age, lol...
1. Radiator takes a dump, fixed
2. 2 Days later, Water Pump takes a dump, fixed
3. 02 Sensor takes a dump, fixed
4. Coolant temp Sensor takes a dump, fixed
5. First alternator takes a dump, fixed
6. Motor starts leaking like a pig, front and rear, top and bottom, lol, .....rebuilt
7. On first start up, debris floats into injector #2, first intake re-tear down, re-install
8. Wrap around water pipe cleaned too well, leaks, second intake tear down, re-install
9. Oil Sending Unit springs a leak, BIG TIME, wire breaks off, ....repaired, torqued down, fixed
10. COUNTLESS WEEKS OF DIAGNOSIS OVER SERIOUS MISS, learning of almost every EFI, Emissions and Ignition components, .....basically, learning of the 22REC system. Diagnosis, CAM! Tear down, Replace CAM w/out removing head, FIXED.
11. Timing Cover Begins to leak like a pig from AC Brace Mounting Bolt, PITA, Fixed
12. Timing Cover Leak begins.... YET ANOTHER pretty decent Tear Down, re-installed w/New Chain, Steel Guides(which was my second set, after the Machinist lost mine and installed, instead, plastic guides), gears Tensioner and Timing cover, after Dropping Diff and Oil pan that's, then, re-installed with yet ANOTHER Water Pump(The Right one, this time),.....FIXED, ......ANOTHER PITA!
13. Steering Pump begins to leak like a pig, Replaced with one, which leaks from the inspection Snap Ring Hole, like a pig, FIXED. Second one fails within 48 hours, replaced with 3rd, which, by that time, is not doing it's job because I just happen to have yet another of one of THE MOST RARE items to go bad, ...THE STEERING BOX! hahaha. Now, fixed, and HOPEFULLY FOR GOOD!!!!
14. Somewhere in the midst of #13, .....SECOND Alternator takes a dump, fixed(again, with the RIGHT one! lol)
Along the way, I also did a Zuk Mod, added an LCE Header and Cold Air Intake System, and next up is...............
1. All new Control Arm Bushings, Sway Bar Bushings
2. All new Ball Joints, Uppers from Downey-Mega Travel
3. New OMEmu Nitro Front Shocks(already installed OMEmu Stabilizer)
4. Spartan Rear Locker
5. YEHAWWWWWWWWWW! hahaha
I sure hope these next endeavors will go without a hitch!
lol..... THANKS, SO MUCH, GUYS, for egging/rooting/encouraging me on. I'm learning, ....but I think I've learned quite a bit in a year. Hope to keep learning, QUICKLY!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 02-25-2011 at 09:11 PM.
02-25-2011, 09:18 PM
#1594
no issues with mine and a procomp stabil. But an earlier comment of mine was that turning one way with a bad pump it would make sense, but not with a new unit. Maybe you got some air in system still? Doubt that though since it was still doing it before.
I don't know what the symptoms of a bad steering box would be though.
Maybe try taking out the steering shock and see how it reacts.
BTW, I still have that manual steering box.
I don't know what the symptoms of a bad steering box would be though.
Maybe try taking out the steering shock and see how it reacts.
BTW, I still have that manual steering box.
Take care, Homie, ....and btw, ....Sorry for not knowing, but what is that Jagged Toothed Thing that's doing a jig in your last post supposed to be? hahaha. He's here, too....
..... What is that? lol. It says "DOMO", ...is that a Toon Character? lol.
Now on to the good stuff lol.
02-25-2011, 11:04 PM
#1596
Thanks, Zach! lol... yeah,I know, can't wait to do some more things I PLANNED on doing! hahaha.
BTW, wanted to give a shout out to ericthecarguy.com . Eric is a great guy, very helpful, not stuffy, easy to watch his stuff, and he's always entertaining. Did I mention he answered my questions, quickly, and also very quickly came to "Box" as the likely culprit, lol. Thanks for your help, Eric!
BTW, wanted to give a shout out to ericthecarguy.com . Eric is a great guy, very helpful, not stuffy, easy to watch his stuff, and he's always entertaining. Did I mention he answered my questions, quickly, and also very quickly came to "Box" as the likely culprit, lol. Thanks for your help, Eric!
