Z's Confederate Toy

I jus been usin Valvoline Dexron

87hillbillyoter

i dont know why it says either or, but im sure it doesnt mattter

de6w6it

dexron 2 just supercedes the specs that dexron 1 does, same basic stuff, i'd think either would be fine, as dexron 2 probably wasn't even out yet when these trucks were born.
and i would suggest a little bleeding so if you still have any issues, you can be sure it isn't because of air.

Lumpy

Chef I don't know what to tell ya...man you got the Schleprock

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Zach, H-freakin-B(haha), Dewit and LUMPY, .....THAT IS CRAZY, I was just thinking of that! hahaha. Yeah, .....well, I don't really know what to say, either, Buddy. hahaha. BUT, I guess it can't go on forever, eh?(......long silent pause.......)hahahaha. SHHHHHHH!

Ok, well, I think I'm going to take my time on this one, ya know? Not that I'm always trying to rush things, but yeah, ....I don't always have a choice. I told them, this morning, ..."PLEASE, bear with me, ...I SWEAR I AM NOT trying to milk this! Heck, ...I don't even WANT TO DO MOST OF THIS ANYMORE!" hahaha. That's only KIND of true, lol. but they understood.

Trying to find more than the Haynes on Bleeding. Mine says, pretty much, ....

1. Jack up the front, place on stands(already there, duhhhhhhhh) hahhaa
2. Fill Reservoir
3. Turn wheel lock to lock 2 to 3 TIMES(WHAT?lol... I did much more than that)
4. Add fluid till full again, Start motor and turn wheel back and forth lock2lock 2 to 3 times
5. Still running, fill reservoir if needed, then drop truck to ground, turn wheel lock to lock again.

Check for foaming and repeat procedure if necessary......

GOOD LORD, that is HALF of what I've read, just this morning, on IH8MUD, 4x4wire, Yotatech, Pirate,....etc., and DEWIT, ..you were right, buddy... ATF, otherwise damage might occur. (so they say, hahaha). Funny thing is, I ran regular fluid for 170K now, never had an issue till I changed out that FIRST PUMP! GRRRR! lol.

Found this thread(Go Wabbit! lol);

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...leeding-74867/

Only reason I might want to flush a lil is because, well, it looks like more Power Steering Fluid in this box, rather than ATF(every ATF I've ever seen has been Red....am I mis-remembering this one?). The box is still relatively full, and yet, from everything I've been reading today, it is not TOTALLY uncommon for the box to fail, especially if it's been using regular old power steering fluid, ...you know, the REALLY stinky stuff, Valvoline, Lucas, etc.

All my lines are DRAINED, completely.... I mean, I figured, "WHY NOT", especially while I'm taking the whole system apart, right???? hahaha.

One thing that has me curious...... I see that MANY people have had the same problem as me, but it ended up being Trapped air..... Oh well, at this point, I can't know if my box was bad or not, but I CAN say, when turning the gear, by hand, on the bench.... The old one I just took out was VERY difficult to turn at times, ...while the new one was not. I'm CERTAIN there's air in this new box now, but I'll do my best to get it all out!

ANY AND ALL THOUGHTS, INFO, ARGUMENTS THAT COULD ENSUE ARE WELCOME, RIGHT AWAY! ...... ok? hahaha.

xxxtreme22r

GL-4 80-90 in manual steering gear box.

ATF dextron or dextron II in power steering.

This is from the FSM

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Buddy, how you been????? lol....

Just spoke to Toyota, and they said, ..........;

"Dextron 2 is no longer available, and has been upgraded to Dextron 3..... And most other than dealer shops use Chevron D3, which is compatible/exceeds your application."

So there you have it, ..... and thanks again, guys, all of you, for the input.

BRANDON,(no, not shouting, just getting your attention, haha)......>>> I am on page 1096, right now, reading through the Gear Box stuff's, etc.,.... just curious... it doesn't seem to differentiate as to what system would take 'gear oil yadda yadda type', .....It just says, "when installing the gear box, fill with 13mm Gear oil", something like that. Then, later, it says on 1095 or so, "Pump Dextron 2 through system return hose, etc. ,etc.,", ...and then "Bleed, add more Dextron 2 as necessary", etc., etc.... What is with the Gear oil thing? Just don't see it saying "Non power steering". Or, is it that, later, page 1096 or so, it's THEN moving on to the Power steering system, how to bleed it, etc., and just doesn't POINT IT OUT before that?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Toyota also told me, ...could be very useful info, lol......

"ALWAYS use a torque wrench on the Gear Box Mounting bolts and PS Pump mounting bolts, BECAUSE; When you overtighten them, especially the PS Pump mounting bolts, .....distortion can occur(??LOL) and then leaking CAN follow)..... 29FT# should be it, if I remember right."

He was right, it's 29FT# and 48FT# on the Gear Box Mounting nuts. Thought i'd throw that out there. I guess under 30# by feel is fine, for those who have a pretty good grasp of how tight is this or that. But over tight is NOT GOOD, from what he said. I KNOW, couple times now, I've gone OVER, for sure. This last A-1 Cardone has not leaked, and hopefully will be ok(meaning GOD I HOPE it hasn't sustained any damage through all this drama, ahaha). I will respect the "Torque Master" from now one, lol.

xxxtreme22r

scroll further chef in the FSM your in the manual steering not the power steering section.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

No, B, I was just mentioning that it didn't seem to say "manual steering gear" etc., lol... I was talking about the Power Steering Section, there, 1096... and DANG, so much more info! Hope I can get tihs bled right, I'm almost ready to start doing that, after flushing whatever steering fluid is in there, out, carefully, ....then getting some of the RED STUFF in there.

Was looking for the torque value on the idler pulley tension nut, ...can't seem to find it, hmm. No biggie, never had a problem the way I've always done it, ...but just curiosity I suppose.

Hope you're doing ok, Brandon, ...stay safe man.

xxxtreme22r

towards the end of the FSM chef there is a torque spec sheet.

92 TOY

in mine it's probably within the last 10 pages or so

xxxtreme22r

I just looked, if it were listed there it would be on pages 1399,1400,1401 and 1402. But nothing mentions about the belt tensioner for the power steering. only the belt tightness (drive belt tension) on page 1399.

Page 1083 starts the 4wd power steering gear stuff. page 1095 ad 1108 mentions the fluid type.

Page 1100 starts the power steering pump stuff.

Page 1108 just says to tighten the idler pulley nut and adjusting bolt. No torque spec given.

Page 1108 mentions the nut torque spec on the

Lumpy

Just tighten the stupid thing...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I am gonna try to do some video of bleeding this particular system, flushing through a bit too, IF I have time. I should.

PLEASE GIVE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS<>>>>>>>>>: Something I wanted to mention, ..... Now that I have the wheels pointing straight, the steering wheel is cocked to the side.... DANGIT! LOL. So, Now I'm thinking, if I can just undo the u-joint union(where the 4 bolts and ground are, etc.), lift it out of the way(the steering wheel side), then pull the yolk with the coupling tensioning nut off the Boxes Worm Shaft, then, I could line it up..., ....I could get it back to straight, right? I see why they say "MARK IT WITH A PAINT PEN" lol... But, starting with a new box, that doesn't apply to me, so I guess it's "try again" mode, eh? hahaha. That sound about right, what I said I could do to fix it? I'll read up as much as possible, ....any thoughts would be appreciated!

Hahahaha! Hey, I said "No biggie", .....haha.

Lumpy

For some reason I'm not all that surprised that it's a little off.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha, HEY, that's mean, man! lol....

In all seriousness, .....how, without pulling the 4 bolts that join the two spots in the steering shaft, could I get it to just 'LINE RIGHT UP'? Lol. Actually, it was hard enough to get the yolk to slide over the worm shaft(ok, now stop it! lol) when putting it in... seriously, getting the box back up there was easy, but getting it up there while sliding back into the coupling? YEAH, lol.

Any thoughts, besides stomping on my delicate character any further? hahahahaha. jk.... bout everything but 'GIVE ME THE LOW DOWN, BUDDY!' lol

de6w6it

i originally mis-understood the problem, thats y i edited my post. when i pulled my box, shaft, and pitman arm, i used a pretty crude method, but it seems to have worked fine. i just spun the sector shaft by hand, found # of turns lock to lock, and turned it back to the middle, put the steering wheel straight up, put the tires straight forward, bolt together. since i am assuming you have a good alignment prior to all this, once everythings back together, i just pulled the steering wheel and rotated it straight. it isn't keyed or anything, so the wheel position relative to the steering shaft isn't important, just to where the wheels are. the steering stops will limit before the box will, and that spline or 2 you may be off will never be realized, at least that is what is seems with mine.

xxxtreme22r

chef did you remove your pitman arm when changine the box or did you use the one that was on the new box? IF you used your old pitman then the pitman is off a spline or two and your gonna have to fix it that way. Otherwise the centerlink isn't gonna be where it needs to be and will be to one side more. You might need someone to hold the steering wheel for you so you can get it lined up again. And yes that's why they say mark it with a pen.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'll explain, answering XXX, below, Dewit, ...and thanks for the insight!

Hey Brandon,

Ok, to answer you, NO, I did NOT remove the Pitman and re-use it. My Fav-Yard guy, the owner, said, "We NEVER remove the pitmans, that way, when you go to put in the new box, it's good to go." When I put the new box in, it has to go in at a crazy angle, and slide onto the coupling yolk(IF YOU DON'T remove the 2 bolts that hold the intermediate shaft to the coupling and u-joint. OOPS, lol) Thus, when I was struggling to get it in, I had the box up in place, pivoted it up in the front and back toward the grill, sliding the yolk into the worm shaft on the end of the steering box(I think it's the WORM SHAFT?..anyway, the finned rod that comes out of the front of the gear that slides in, then you put the ONE bolt through the coupling to hold it in place.

Far as a solution, I'm pretty sure if I just unbolt the Intermediate shafts 2 bolts, AFTER MARKING IT AND THE COUPLING END, carefully, .....I can pivot the steering rod to the side and pull the coupling off the worm shaft. After all, all I'm trying to do is get the steering wheel straight up with the wheels straight again(which I think MIGHT be important when I want to use the tilt? Not sure on that, guessing, hahaha.)

I THINK, pretty sure, that I'm ok on the Centerlink/relay rod ends, etc., as I only removed the old pitman from the relay rod end and then put the new one right in.

Yes, DEWIT, it was PERFECTLY aligned before I started all this, lol.

Anything?