Red Wagon

Nice work Cheffy.

My daytime running lights stopped working. It's weird.

RAD4Runner

Nice, Mark!

This RPM drop may be because of high resistance/poor connection somewhere between battery post/connector, through fusible link wire, through fuse block to headlight relays. When headlights come on, that high current cause voltage after that high resistance to drop (You can see this by monitoring voltage at lighter socket). So your ignition and/or EFI systems get lower voltage than they need.

With an upgrade harness, current to headlights do not pass through the fusible link and fuse block anymore. Current to headlight relay is significantly reduced (from approx 10 amps to run the bulbs to only milli-amps to power the harness relay coils), so voltage drop to ignition and EFI supply circuits is minimized.

There might be a work-around. Does your DRL use your low-beam or high beam filaments? Would be interesting to see schematic for your DRL.

84 yota dude

Are you still trying to diagnose the suspension tilt?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah bud.... I'm gonna have a update on that, shortly.

Still hoping for a tip as to why my rod is having to be adjusted to the end of the rod ends for proper toe. Nobody?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Just seeing what you have gotten done lately. There should be plenty of adjustments on your rods for either way. You dont see anything under there that is really tweaked??

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Really stumped! As are many like JonnyBoy, and some Guru's who've seen it,...All scratching heads! Lol

Going to pull the rod ends and see if there's any obvious carnage... From looking just from the side, they appear to be straight as can be... Up into the socket with the shaft and on the socket and threaded arm itself.

ToyoTech559

Are you using a computer alignment? I remember seeing a while back you used a guy that did it by tape measurements or something. A computer alignment can show toe camber and caster. Might see something a tape measurement won't show.

87blackbeauty

This truck has come a long way in the past 4 years. I've read it for the most part, but it was hard to focus the last 200+ pages. lol. When does the engine swap part take place?

But seriously, incredible build chef. It really inspires me to do more with my 4runner. Of course, it also makes me feel like I quarter butt everything, but I guess that's just how it is!

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

I'm not that knowledgeable with alignments (use firestone lifetime!) but it seems you need to start from the beginning again (wherever that may be). For example, tie rods backed off and even on both sides, steering wheel straight and centered, then start tightening things evenly to see where it ends up?

I would recommend the firestone lifetime computer alignment but I don't think they'll touch your modified rig, they specifically state something about not doing it for modified vehicles.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

The last one I got, I was IFS.... P I have been doing it 30 years and was always dead on for me. I never had anything but perfect where on my tires. I totally agree that at this point so high tech down to the degree analysis couldn't hurt... But like Grego mentioned, I don't think most of them are going to honor a lifetime set up. They will align it, because it's basically one of the most simple setups there are, basic high steer..... But, just being on 35's, alone, and then obviously being set up for all kinds of hardcore wheeling... They are likely to say that is not within the scope of their guidelines..... First I'm going to at least pull the rod ends and see if I can't find some obvious "inside the socket Mangala-Gremlins" going on...lol. I will also take my lazer down the rod to look for a band... Even though I can't see any at all with my eye twitch I would think it would have to be pretty obvious in order to require this kind of adjustment.....

Sorry I lost you about halfway... Lol. I'm very honored but you liked it and that it inspires you in any way! The motor swap is just basically going to happen when it happens. My life is a little bit upside down right now with health issues and such, .... and yet, I don't let that stop me, as long as its not going to hinder my health, or worse, any further. One of my biggest problems at this point is that I am really having a hard time making up my mind which motor I want to swap in. Considering I will be doing all the work on it myself, and thereafter any repairs that would be needed, it is a big decision between either A 3RZ or 1UZ..... Just consider the difference between working on the exhaust of the Lexus 4.0 v8 and then doing it on the 2.7 inline 4 cylinder Toyota.... HUGE difference! Lol.... But I definitely want something that is going to give me noticeably more power. I've been waiting to hear from my buddy Kyle in regards to that, as he has A 3RZ and pretty much the same rig..... However, I don't need personal testimony to tell me that we are talking around 45 to 50 more horsepower...Considering my motor is built a little bit, ....Maybe a little less. 1UZ is˟(256˟hp), torque (260˟lb·ft)..... HUGE difference, with not much more weight, considering it's all aluminum block....

Then: In 1997, Toyota's˟VVT-i variable valve timing technology˟was introduced along with a further compression ratio increase to 10.5:1, bumping power and torque to (290˟hp) and (300˟lb·ft). In the GS400 application, output was rated at 300˟hp and 310˟lb·ft of torque.

The 1UZ-FE was voted to the˟Ward's 10 Best Engines˟list for 1998 through 2000

For me? I don't mind the work to make the 1UZ work..... But what I do mind is California regulations.....And the MUCH added cost, compared to the 3RZ swap..... Also the modifications necessary to run the 1UZ would include likely making a logical move to upgrade the transmission immediately, to at least a R151F or R150F.... Inch worm adapter.... etc!...And, the most contentious factor in my waffling is always going to be, "Would you rather do exhaust or other hard to access work on the 1UZ or 3RZ? Lol.... ".... I think of anyone who knows me would say that I'm not lazy... I'm just dealing with a few more health issues in the last couple years, and also not forgetting to mention one of the factor... If you have to do that type of work in the cold, on a trail, whatever the circumstance that might get you out in the middle of nowhere having to run back and forth to town in someone else's Rick for parts... And then spend 4 hours repairing something that would take you 30 minutes on the smaller motor... Well, needless to say, it's something that I think everyone should consider before they drop something that large into these fairly small engine bays. Unless I get some type of steel on either of the above, in regards to super chargers... It ain't going to happen. The average supercharger cost for a full kit on a 2.7 is somewhere around 3500 dollars... For a Premium kit 1 supercharging a 4.0 Lexus v8... You're looking at more like $5500. 260 hp is plenty! Lol.... 156hp? In regards to the 2.7? It could be plenty... And it is certainly a fantastic motor!... I just wonder if I would kick myself for not making the sacrifice and going for the 260 horsepower Lexus motor that is rated one of the best v8 ever made(in OBD1 but not VVT-I as it would mean LOTS more work and much more difficult to get it to qualify with the California ref, without all the computers and so forth.

I've also considered the Mercedes turbo diesel, the 1.9 TDI Volkswagen, they 7mge or GTE series straight 6..... They all have their problem areas in regards to a swap, and the latter in some ways it's even more of a shoehorn fit from front to back,... I believe by something like 4 inches. 1GR-FE (?) Is a other GEM, and for a 4.0 v6 with variable valve timing and at least the same power as the above-mentioned 1uz... Its very tempting, but also tons more work in the ECT and electronics realm. It even has a very sophisticated computer that communicates between the transmission and engine operation. Again, not forgetting to mention, it is also something that would cost a fortune as these donor rigs are not cheap to come by!

Needless to say, I personally feel huge decision that I do not want to make prematurely. I have driven a 3.4, & I love it! However, I don't think its even close to the power and isn't really much easier to work on. In fact, the 1UZ has coil packs and top-loading spark plugs... So I would figure that would take a lot of Labor out of the more maintenance type incremental work( unlike with a 3.0, which I know people absolutely love changing plugs on!) Lol...





I'm going to get digging on this, soon, and will try to figure it out. Otherwise, if I checked pretty much everything and cannot conclude an obvious area of compromise... I really don't know what else to do other than slapping an entire new Axle and high steer system in,..... Just to be sure? Lol. Yeah, that is criminal level of, " just throw a bunch of parts at it" lol.

RBX

chef,
I went back but I can't find where you are having an issue with tire wear on the front end. Can you give a brief description of what is happening and when it started?

What kit Hi-Steer, trunions or eliminators?
which wheel(s)

87blackbeauty

Wow, what a reply. I've said a lot of this in my head before.

Okay, I'm on mobile so short answer time. I have researched this to death probably as I can't decide either. (I'm also interested in a big boy swap) But, reading a thread like big Mike's over on marlin crawler leads me to the 3rz. And then horsepower desires lead me to the 5vz and 1uz. A 5vz that has been supercharged has the power of a stock 1uz, right? Though I think that superchargers are terrible, I know they're better for low end. But I must admit, a 3rz can be turboed and get up into the 200s in horsepower reliably. And reasons like that along with the room you mentioned and the fact that I want to retain my 4cylinder-ness leads me to think the 3rz is the best option.

I didn't know people were putting gen 2 (gen 2? Or just later model) 1uz's into our trucks? Or was that just something you thought about?

On a final note, the 4.0 from the 05+ taco and 03+ 4r is a GREAT engine, maybe better than the 1uz if you ask me, purely on build quality and all that. That is the best option if it was really possible, and I know it is. I've read the elusive thread on here about it but it was in Saudi Arabia and is the only one I've heard about. If it were more documented I bet it'd get a LOT of attention. It really is the "swap of the future" but it still is out of reach currently because of cost. And then lack of parts due to their prices. Too new...

Point is, I feel exactly as you do about it! It's hard to decide, and honestly I think that whatever engine I come across is what will make my decision. Even if that's a 7m. And maybe that's for the best for someone like me, who is indecisive right up until what I'm doing gets started. But I am leaning toward a 3rz to retain some sort of stockness in my mind and also save money on a transmission.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

GRRRRRREAT post! .....Well, it's great for me anyway! Lol... Hahahahaha... It's great for me in that I don't feel like a nut for being so careful and making this decision.
I will reply to you in more detail very shortly... I just wanted to say thanks for sharing your two cents! I appreciate it bud! I just need to take a few minutes tonight to do an update and then I will try to check back in tomorrow ensure a few more things that I was looking into.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, ..... It's begun. ...



After 4 hours of the fairly aggressive bone grinding and extraction bone grafting, I left my first session of several at the oral surgeon.....

After waiting nearly 2 hours for the computers to come back online at rite aid, I finally got my pain medication. Period. I gotta tell you, even with mind her face feeling numb, the pain was so intense that I really starting to worry while waiting for the pain medication. Just the fact that I can feel it through all that novacaine! Lol!... But, just in time, I got a couple in me and grabbed a bunch of mushy food that I would need for the next few days....

Here, I am having my first meal afterwards... Hahahahaha...



The day before this, I decided to head out to all pro and pick up a set of 6 inch lift Springs for the rear and a new flip kit for the front( I think Johnny boy is going to need the plates for his SAS.... And the bolts we're already resting so bad on the front, I needed to at least replace those...)....

Some of you might recognize Kurtis Taylors sick taco!...( the truck on the left is another employees new to him 86....)...







On my way home, I swear to you guys, Vin Diesel pulled up next to me in an Escalade.....( if it was him, do I really care? No not really... Lol. It's just one of those things where you're trying so hard to see if you were right... Hahaha.)



As many of you know, I have been investigating why my hysteer rod is having to be adjusted all the way in to the last threads of the tie rod ends.... I can't be sure, but I'm starting to think that at least the driver side tie rod end is fubar...



I can be sure yet on the passenger side, but I will be pulling them most likely monday or tuesday when my new ones along with a custom length: steer Rod , from All Pro arrive.......



I've also begun to suspect that I might have possibly Sheard the driver side centerpin... I can't be sure, but I swear by my eye that the driver side wheel is further forward...





I need to do some more detailed investigating into that... But I will at least check the center pins so early when I do the flip kit swap. I'm thinking of doing something Johnny boy suggested, using a large Head Island bolt and place of the Polished centerpin cog.... We will see and I will update. I have another pretty cool update coming in the near future.... Not quite ready to bring that one up yet.

87blackbeauty

Deleted because RBX's post taught me that I do NOT understand SFA stuff.

RBX

Chef,
If the tie rod end is busted it will have play. Jack that wheel off the ground and give the wheel a good shake left and right. You should see play. It is possible the centering pin has move or sheared. But the tie rod is mounted to the axle and doesn't care if the leafs are present or in the correct spot. You are running 35"s on stock trunnions?id check torque on your trunnions which you should be checking after before each wheeling trip. Also check the u lot torque. It's often recommended to restorable after a few hundred miles. Also, don't measure from the body to see if the axle is placed properly, measure from a factory frame hole for accuracy, the body isn't necessarily square on the frame. I'm not sure if I understood correctly, but you should be adjusting the entire tierod not just the end, so that the tierods adjust equally since that is part of your alignment.

Hope that helps.

I'm guessing this all started after your wheeling trips.

JonnyBoy

RBX, I can answer most of this since I've been trying to help with this and did the adjustment of the tie rod last.

We did lift each front wheel with the other still on the ground, tried to get play in the steering but it was still tight. It does look a little like the driver side rod end has sorta shifted, though. We were adjusting the whole tie rod at once, with both rod end jam nuts loose, I turned the bar many times, 1/2-3/4" of an inch adjustment to EACH side was needed to get the toe in spec(by eyeball). We did check the steering arm nuts, didn't back the off to tighten the studs. The nuts were tight, 80 ft/lbs. cause he has ARP studs, we went to 100 lbs on them and got less than an 1/8 turn on the nuts. We did not check the u bolts as he has to replace them anyhow, they're rusting already, so we didn't wanna mess with them til he replaces them.

Hope that clears up a couple things, and like I've said I'm no solid axle or alignment specialist, but something is definitely up and we're baffled that there was that much adjustment needed and nothing obvious that has caused it.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Again, .... Thanks SO much for your help in all this, Jonny....

Thanks to you as well, RBX! I hope Jonny answered the majority of your questions... If not, please re post with specific queries?

I'm a bit out of it RBX, so forgive me if I've missed this... But did you see my post regarding testing of axles within the tubes, looking for obvious signs of the tube being bent? ...... And, I will be swapping flip kits up front, so that will be a good time to check the leafs' centerpin for compromise.... I will definitely keep you up to date on that and everyone else as well.

I did not check the Trunion bearings.... I will. I was going to do the trunion bearing eliminator, but I was ready to go and read conflicting things...?

PS: I have, more than once, checked the u-bolt torque rating... They haven't budged

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Seeing the dental tools, I have sympathy pains for you. I hurt like heck when they get done and still need to go back. The pain is intense when doing that kind of surgery. Try to get home before the novacaine wears off. I wont drive after surgery any more.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Hey Mark...Sorry If I missed if, but are you replacing your rear leaf springs? Hope you figure out the Tie Rod end situation, that's got to be frustrating.


I was kind of curious about those trunion bearing eliminator kits also, thought about going that route next time I rebuild my front axel, I'll have to do some research first though, if you've read some conflicting info on them... might be better to do like RBX and upgrade to Marlin's 25mm trunions.


I was going to ask you how you like your spare up on top of your Confer Rack? Does if make your 4runner feel top heavy when corning at all? How about in off camber situations on the trail? Just curious, I ran my spare tire like that on my old blazer I had, (it had 38" super swampers, kinda heavy to lift up there, lol) and haven't decided on whether to go that route on my 4runner, or do a rearbumper/tire swing out. Thanks Mark, oh hope your feeling better after the dental surgery!