ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#801
PS> I'm not going to put LED's in my rig... I was cruising around last night on errands, and I lit them up and it's plenty of light for me. Not in the very back, so I'm going to put in that second dome light assembly, and I wondered...... should I just wire into the existing dome light I have? Anyway, ...that will light up the back seat and cargo area, just fine, with the old Toyota 10W bulb, lol. I'm sure the LED's would be great, but I'm not going to spend all that cabbage right now when I have all I need, and then some to make it brighter, ya know? But, I want to hit that yard again and snag the housing the goes behind the light....that way I could glue in the housing, to the shell, then just bolt up the new light assembly to the housing and be done with it.
#802
Registered User
You should be able to go to any auto parts s tore and ask for a standard 4 pin 40 amp relay, should cost around $5, and you can see the 4 connections made at the relay in the diagram posted above. A relay is a relay, they are in fact just a switch and your AC relay may very well work, accept the fact that we don't know how many amps it is rated for. Also at least look into the weather proof terminals I recomended above. Sounds to me like you already have just about everything you will need to wire them up without buying the kit.
#804
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
any type of fuse will work. i like using the blade-type (standard automotive type) because they are cheap, available everywhere, and come in a bunch of different sizes. general rule of thumb: 5 amps for every 60 watts (eg, 10 amp fuse for 2 x 60 watt lights)
as for the relay, it doesn't matter which you use. they come in 4-prong and 5-prong. the 5th prong just adds another terminal, but you wouldn't use it anyway. 4-prong relays are usually cheaper, too.
as for the relay, it doesn't matter which you use. they come in 4-prong and 5-prong. the 5th prong just adds another terminal, but you wouldn't use it anyway. 4-prong relays are usually cheaper, too.
#805
Registered User
You should be fine tapping into your current dome light to run a second one in the cargo area. I don't think they draw much current anyways.
#806
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Like Ian said, 10 / 15 amp fuse should be plenty big, just try to find a nice (sealed) holder and let that be the deciding factor as to what style fuse you use. I need to get a pic of it, but I just picked up a really nice accesory fuse block.
You should be fine tapping into your current dome light to run a second one in the cargo area. I don't think they draw much current anyways.
You should be fine tapping into your current dome light to run a second one in the cargo area. I don't think they draw much current anyways.
and if you do run a second light off the "dome" circuit, be sure to add a slightly higher rated fuse (if it's at 10 amps use 15, 15 use 20, etc...)
#807
SWEET! lol... Ok, so,
1. I looked at my lights, no watt rating on them. What would they be, if they're 8" Dick Cepek Halogens? 100w? 150w?
2. Could I get one of those fuse blocks at autoparts store?
3. Thanks on the dome light answer... Just curious... do you mean the fuse for the lights that already exists? Not sure where that is.... I'm a total dork when it comes to this stuff.. but I'm learning. I KNOW WHERE THE EFI FUSE IS hahahaha! I know more than that, but I just mean..where is it, eh? lol. BTW, those lights are 12v x 10w. Will be really cool to have a 'cargo area light', Ian, eh? hahaha. I know, it's the bed...but with my Runner, it's a lil different, ya know? haha.
1. I looked at my lights, no watt rating on them. What would they be, if they're 8" Dick Cepek Halogens? 100w? 150w?
2. Could I get one of those fuse blocks at autoparts store?
3. Thanks on the dome light answer... Just curious... do you mean the fuse for the lights that already exists? Not sure where that is.... I'm a total dork when it comes to this stuff.. but I'm learning. I KNOW WHERE THE EFI FUSE IS hahahaha! I know more than that, but I just mean..where is it, eh? lol. BTW, those lights are 12v x 10w. Will be really cool to have a 'cargo area light', Ian, eh? hahaha. I know, it's the bed...but with my Runner, it's a lil different, ya know? haha.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 11-16-2010 at 10:57 AM.
#808
OK, got it... Dome is 7.5amp, so get a 15a, right? K! I'll probably use connectors on that though, guys...can't see how I'll solder that in when I have barely any wire to work with on the existing dome light. I have an idea though...and I do need the other housing from that junk yard rig. I'ma go get it, and some fuses too while I'm there.
BTW; Sorry for changing the topic... but I CAN NOT seem to find my Lower Ball joints at any place but partsgeek.com, and I've read THOUSANDS of complaints about customer service, wrong parts, WAY too long shipping, etc. SO, I want to avoid them. But, seems like every place I call doesn't have BOTH, Passenger and driver side. 2 Things I'm curious on... are they THE SAME? Or are they slightly different. They are listed, even at Toyota, as different part numbers... but even there, i can't get them to tell me what BRAND THEY FREAKN ARE! lol. Sankei? Koyo? wth are they? I guess I'll just order them from Toyota.com, or whatever that site was the Xxxtreme posted. They're around 30$ more, total... that's ok.... but I figured, if I can get OEM from another supplier and save 30$, WHY NOT, RIGHT? lol. I guess OEM is the safest route on that, considering the THOUSANDS of complaints about MOOG and others that I've read. Mine lasted 20 years... I guess that's pretty reliable, eh? lol. Also noticing that lots of people with bad lower bj's notice slop in steering and premature tire drop, etc.(like when I hit bumps and KERPLUNK! ya know? lol) I'd like to pick them up down the street, but even with my 20% off, they want 88$ a piece! hahaha.
BTW; Sorry for changing the topic... but I CAN NOT seem to find my Lower Ball joints at any place but partsgeek.com, and I've read THOUSANDS of complaints about customer service, wrong parts, WAY too long shipping, etc. SO, I want to avoid them. But, seems like every place I call doesn't have BOTH, Passenger and driver side. 2 Things I'm curious on... are they THE SAME? Or are they slightly different. They are listed, even at Toyota, as different part numbers... but even there, i can't get them to tell me what BRAND THEY FREAKN ARE! lol. Sankei? Koyo? wth are they? I guess I'll just order them from Toyota.com, or whatever that site was the Xxxtreme posted. They're around 30$ more, total... that's ok.... but I figured, if I can get OEM from another supplier and save 30$, WHY NOT, RIGHT? lol. I guess OEM is the safest route on that, considering the THOUSANDS of complaints about MOOG and others that I've read. Mine lasted 20 years... I guess that's pretty reliable, eh? lol. Also noticing that lots of people with bad lower bj's notice slop in steering and premature tire drop, etc.(like when I hit bumps and KERPLUNK! ya know? lol) I'd like to pick them up down the street, but even with my 20% off, they want 88$ a piece! hahaha.
#809
Registered User
lol you mean http://toyotapartszone.com ? Have you tried http://www.rockauto.com/ ?
autozone has them for my 87 pickup should be the same for yours.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=23766_0_0_
by the looks of the part number FA1612 they should be of the McQuay-Norris brand like the Idler Arms.
autozone has them for my 87 pickup should be the same for yours.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=23766_0_0_
by the looks of the part number FA1612 they should be of the McQuay-Norris brand like the Idler Arms.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 11-16-2010 at 11:42 AM.
#811
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
SWEET! lol... Ok, so,
1. I looked at my lights, no watt rating on them. What would they be, if they're 8" Dick Cepek Halogens? 100w? 150w?
2. Could I get one of those fuse blocks at autoparts store?
3. Thanks on the dome light answer... Just curious... do you mean the fuse for the lights that already exists? Not sure where that is.... I'm a total dork when it comes to this stuff.. but I'm learning. I KNOW WHERE THE EFI FUSE IS hahahaha! I know more than that, but I just mean..where is it, eh? lol. BTW, those lights are 12v x 10w. Will be really cool to have a 'cargo area light', Ian, eh? hahaha. I know, it's the bed...but with my Runner, it's a lil different, ya know? haha.
1. I looked at my lights, no watt rating on them. What would they be, if they're 8" Dick Cepek Halogens? 100w? 150w?
2. Could I get one of those fuse blocks at autoparts store?
3. Thanks on the dome light answer... Just curious... do you mean the fuse for the lights that already exists? Not sure where that is.... I'm a total dork when it comes to this stuff.. but I'm learning. I KNOW WHERE THE EFI FUSE IS hahahaha! I know more than that, but I just mean..where is it, eh? lol. BTW, those lights are 12v x 10w. Will be really cool to have a 'cargo area light', Ian, eh? hahaha. I know, it's the bed...but with my Runner, it's a lil different, ya know? haha.
2. autozone (or advanced, can't remember) sells a nice sealed fuse holder, something like this
3. just look in the user's manual for the "dome" fuse. if it's 7.5 amps as-is, then 10-15 should be plenty
Last edited by irab88; 11-16-2010 at 03:22 PM.
#813
lol you mean http://toyotapartszone.com ? Have you tried http://www.rockauto.com/ ?
autozone has them for my 87 pickup should be the same for yours.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=23766_0_0_
by the looks of the part number FA1612 they should be of the McQuay-Norris brand like the Idler Arms.
autozone has them for my 87 pickup should be the same for yours.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=23766_0_0_
by the looks of the part number FA1612 they should be of the McQuay-Norris brand like the Idler Arms.
Yeah, just trying to figure out what the brand was, then I could get them maybe cheaper.. but I guess toyotapartszone or something like that is best.
1. you could probably get away with a 40 amp fuse
2. autozone (or advanced, can't remember) sells a nice sealed fuse holder, something like this
3. just look in the user's manual for the "dome" fuse. if it's 7.5 amps as-is, then 10-15 should be plenty
2. autozone (or advanced, can't remember) sells a nice sealed fuse holder, something like this
3. just look in the user's manual for the "dome" fuse. if it's 7.5 amps as-is, then 10-15 should be plenty
thanks again, so much, guys. I'm sorry, I'm just really having trouble grasping the electronics. Have you seen Dreamcatcher? hahahaa. I'm feeling like when they described having to take old memories and such down to the basement storage in their brain, as they would be learning so much new stuff, they couldn't retain it all! hahahaha.
#814
Registered User
using a 40amp fuse in those holders meant for no more than 30 amp is probably a bad idea.
edit never mind you said 40 amp relay. lmao.
those should take a regular fuse, autozone should have them all the way down to 7.5 amp.
edit never mind you said 40 amp relay. lmao.
those should take a regular fuse, autozone should have them all the way down to 7.5 amp.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 11-16-2010 at 03:44 PM.
#817
Registered User
Confused yet chef? haha
#820
Hey guys, .... sorry man... CRAZY DAY! lol...... Ok, .....
Here's my plan;
I'm going to use;
1. 40A, 4 Pin Relay
2. 10G wire for all 4, and grounds
3. 10G Heat Shrinkable Female Pin-Connectors(for relay and switch)
4. 40A Glass Fuse with Sealed/Clear Plastic Holder for it(it's bout the size of a cigarette, the fuse, and it has screw-tightened fittings on each end of the Fuse Holder for the 10G wire.... all-weather proof.... It comes with 4 fuses for 5.99$ or something ??? lol. )
5. Need new rubber seals for where the wires come out of the lights, and, I'd like to know if I can take the lights apart and get rid of the 14G wire and replace it with 10G, right at the source... solder it in???
6. Going to mount the Switch above the stereo in a lil cut out for the tab-nut...have that figured out.
7. Solder everything in, heat shrink in and then wire loom and tape in for extra weather proof effectiveness.
That should do it, with the beautiful routing diagram Ian gave me!
And NO, B-loc', Ian,....you're not TOTALLY losing me. It's just a lil overwhelming when I try to put it all together as a "UNIT" in my head, hahaha. Now that I think about it clearly, writing it down on paper, all separate..... It's making sense...... Except>
Maybe you could make it clear for me, once I put up pics of the relay, which prong is for what? hahahahah!
Thanks for bearing with me, guys.... I'm going to do a killer write up and pics, along with a video explanation, so people like me can really have an easier time with this. There's a few on youtube, but most of them speak as if I KNOW WHAT THEY'RE TALKING ABOUT! lol..... Just like my mean Dietary Physics Teacher! GRRRR! hahaha.
Here's my plan;
I'm going to use;
1. 40A, 4 Pin Relay
2. 10G wire for all 4, and grounds
3. 10G Heat Shrinkable Female Pin-Connectors(for relay and switch)
4. 40A Glass Fuse with Sealed/Clear Plastic Holder for it(it's bout the size of a cigarette, the fuse, and it has screw-tightened fittings on each end of the Fuse Holder for the 10G wire.... all-weather proof.... It comes with 4 fuses for 5.99$ or something ??? lol. )
5. Need new rubber seals for where the wires come out of the lights, and, I'd like to know if I can take the lights apart and get rid of the 14G wire and replace it with 10G, right at the source... solder it in???
6. Going to mount the Switch above the stereo in a lil cut out for the tab-nut...have that figured out.
7. Solder everything in, heat shrink in and then wire loom and tape in for extra weather proof effectiveness.
That should do it, with the beautiful routing diagram Ian gave me!
And NO, B-loc', Ian,....you're not TOTALLY losing me. It's just a lil overwhelming when I try to put it all together as a "UNIT" in my head, hahaha. Now that I think about it clearly, writing it down on paper, all separate..... It's making sense...... Except>
Maybe you could make it clear for me, once I put up pics of the relay, which prong is for what? hahahahah!
Thanks for bearing with me, guys.... I'm going to do a killer write up and pics, along with a video explanation, so people like me can really have an easier time with this. There's a few on youtube, but most of them speak as if I KNOW WHAT THEY'RE TALKING ABOUT! lol..... Just like my mean Dietary Physics Teacher! GRRRR! hahaha.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 11-16-2010 at 09:39 PM.