ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> I'm not going to put LED's in my rig... I was cruising around last night on errands, and I lit them up and it's plenty of light for me. Not in the very back, so I'm going to put in that second dome light assembly, and I wondered...... should I just wire into the existing dome light I have? Anyway, ...that will light up the back seat and cargo area, just fine, with the old Toyota 10W bulb, lol. I'm sure the LED's would be great, but I'm not going to spend all that cabbage right now when I have all I need, and then some to make it brighter, ya know? But, I want to hit that yard again and snag the housing the goes behind the light....that way I could glue in the housing, to the shell, then just bolt up the new light assembly to the housing and be done with it.

yotarob2005

You should be able to go to any auto parts s tore and ask for a standard 4 pin 40 amp relay, should cost around $5, and you can see the 4 connections made at the relay in the diagram posted above. A relay is a relay, they are in fact just a switch and your AC relay may very well work, accept the fact that we don't know how many amps it is rated for. Also at least look into the weather proof terminals I recomended above. Sounds to me like you already have just about everything you will need to wire them up without buying the kit.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I guess I do, Rob! hahaha..... So, Ok, gotcha... 40AMP 4 pin... What about the fuse? 40AMP too?

Oh, and can I just splice into that wiring for the dome up front?

irab88

iTrader: (4)

any type of fuse will work. i like using the blade-type (standard automotive type) because they are cheap, available everywhere, and come in a bunch of different sizes. general rule of thumb: 5 amps for every 60 watts (eg, 10 amp fuse for 2 x 60 watt lights)

as for the relay, it doesn't matter which you use. they come in 4-prong and 5-prong. the 5th prong just adds another terminal, but you wouldn't use it anyway. 4-prong relays are usually cheaper, too.

yotarob2005

Like Ian said, 10 / 15 amp fuse should be plenty big, just try to find a nice (sealed) holder and let that be the deciding factor as to what style fuse you use. I need to get a pic of it, but I just picked up a really nice accesory fuse block.

You should be fine tapping into your current dome light to run a second one in the cargo area. I don't think they draw much current anyways.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

x2 on a sealed fuse holder

and if you do run a second light off the "dome" circuit, be sure to add a slightly higher rated fuse (if it's at 10 amps use 15, 15 use 20, etc...)

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

SWEET! lol... Ok, so,

1. I looked at my lights, no watt rating on them. What would they be, if they're 8" Dick Cepek Halogens? 100w? 150w?

2. Could I get one of those fuse blocks at autoparts store?

3. Thanks on the dome light answer... Just curious... do you mean the fuse for the lights that already exists? Not sure where that is.... I'm a total dork when it comes to this stuff.. but I'm learning. I KNOW WHERE THE EFI FUSE IS hahahaha! I know more than that, but I just mean..where is it, eh? lol. BTW, those lights are 12v x 10w. Will be really cool to have a 'cargo area light', Ian, eh? hahaha. I know, it's the bed...but with my Runner, it's a lil different, ya know? haha.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OK, got it... Dome is 7.5amp, so get a 15a, right? K! I'll probably use connectors on that though, guys...can't see how I'll solder that in when I have barely any wire to work with on the existing dome light. I have an idea though...and I do need the other housing from that junk yard rig. I'ma go get it, and some fuses too while I'm there.


BTW; Sorry for changing the topic... but I CAN NOT seem to find my Lower Ball joints at any place but partsgeek.com, and I've read THOUSANDS of complaints about customer service, wrong parts, WAY too long shipping, etc. SO, I want to avoid them. But, seems like every place I call doesn't have BOTH, Passenger and driver side. 2 Things I'm curious on... are they THE SAME? Or are they slightly different. They are listed, even at Toyota, as different part numbers... but even there, i can't get them to tell me what BRAND THEY FREAKN ARE! lol. Sankei? Koyo? wth are they? I guess I'll just order them from Toyota.com, or whatever that site was the Xxxtreme posted. They're around 30$ more, total... that's ok.... but I figured, if I can get OEM from another supplier and save 30$, WHY NOT, RIGHT? lol. I guess OEM is the safest route on that, considering the THOUSANDS of complaints about MOOG and others that I've read. Mine lasted 20 years... I guess that's pretty reliable, eh? lol. Also noticing that lots of people with bad lower bj's notice slop in steering and premature tire drop, etc.(like when I hit bumps and KERPLUNK! ya know? lol) I'd like to pick them up down the street, but even with my 20% off, they want 88$ a piece! hahaha.

xxxtreme22r

lol you mean http://toyotapartszone.com ? Have you tried http://www.rockauto.com/ ?

autozone has them for my 87 pickup should be the same for yours.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=23766_0_0_

by the looks of the part number FA1612 they should be of the McQuay-Norris brand like the Idler Arms.

yotarob2005

Can't go wrong with Toyota parts

irab88

iTrader: (4)

1. you could probably get away with a 40 amp fuse

2. autozone (or advanced, can't remember) sells a nice sealed fuse holder, something like this


3. just look in the user's manual for the "dome" fuse. if it's 7.5 amps as-is, then 10-15 should be plenty

xxxtreme22r

^^^ those are what I used on my headlight wiring harness upgrade.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey B, just thought I should get the Sankei 555's, the Japan Made Brand, .... I thought that's what Toyota Carried, and I can find them for $50.59 a piece, but many seem to be out of stock. I'll try rock and the partszone one, too! THANKS! Just wanna get it done and keep hitting obstacles, lol.

Yeah, just trying to figure out what the brand was, then I could get them maybe cheaper.. but I guess toyotapartszone or something like that is best.

Hey, I got one of those things in the picture, today. I also got a Relay, 4 Pin w/ 40A capacity, but the only smaller fuse I could find was 30A, the biggest. The electronics store guy broke it down and told me 40A is capable for up to 500Watts, if my lights were 125w each, then I'd be at 250w with a 50% margin over the top, which should be fine. He told me too that I would be fine with a 20Amp fuse... I meant to print out the diagram but was already out. Also, I got plenty of heat shrink and a Pilot Racing Switch... It's the kind with a flip cover to keep it from switching on without opening the cover. The kits they have at Pep boys, etc, are JUNK, ...at least they look it. So, I'd like to do it myself, all of it. I'll post a pic, later, or tomorrow, of all the stuff i have so far. Hopefully y'all will know if I'm good to go. (weatherproof connectors, too, got em).

thanks again, so much, guys. I'm sorry, I'm just really having trouble grasping the electronics. Have you seen Dreamcatcher? hahahaa. I'm feeling like when they described having to take old memories and such down to the basement storage in their brain, as they would be learning so much new stuff, they couldn't retain it all! hahahaha.

xxxtreme22r

using a 40amp fuse in those holders meant for no more than 30 amp is probably a bad idea.

edit never mind you said 40 amp relay. lmao.

those should take a regular fuse, autozone should have them all the way down to 7.5 amp.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

40 amps x 12 volts = 480 watts, but close enough.

the autozone fuse holder is: 30 amps x 32 volts, which is 960 watts. that's 80 amps at 12 volts. plenty for your aplication

irab88

iTrader: (4)

x2, but see above ...

i think they have fuses from 5 to 50. don't forget, you can also put 2 relays in parallel and add the amperages (40 in parallel with 40 gives you an 80 amp fuse)

xxxtreme22r

As long as the distance between the two fuses are no less than 10mm and no more than 30mm apart. And the resistances between the two are less than 5%.

Confused yet chef? haha

irab88

iTrader: (4)

hahaha...

we can go on...

and on...

and on...

xxxtreme22r

I never liked that theory though, too hard to get it perfect.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, .... sorry man... CRAZY DAY! lol...... Ok, .....

Here's my plan;

I'm going to use;

1. 40A, 4 Pin Relay
2. 10G wire for all 4, and grounds
3. 10G Heat Shrinkable Female Pin-Connectors(for relay and switch)
4. 40A Glass Fuse with Sealed/Clear Plastic Holder for it(it's bout the size of a cigarette, the fuse, and it has screw-tightened fittings on each end of the Fuse Holder for the 10G wire.... all-weather proof.... It comes with 4 fuses for 5.99$ or something ??? lol. )
5. Need new rubber seals for where the wires come out of the lights, and, I'd like to know if I can take the lights apart and get rid of the 14G wire and replace it with 10G, right at the source... solder it in???
6. Going to mount the Switch above the stereo in a lil cut out for the tab-nut...have that figured out.
7. Solder everything in, heat shrink in and then wire loom and tape in for extra weather proof effectiveness.

That should do it, with the beautiful routing diagram Ian gave me!

And NO, B-loc', Ian,....you're not TOTALLY losing me. It's just a lil overwhelming when I try to put it all together as a "UNIT" in my head, hahaha. Now that I think about it clearly, writing it down on paper, all separate..... It's making sense...... Except>

Maybe you could make it clear for me, once I put up pics of the relay, which prong is for what? hahahahah!

Thanks for bearing with me, guys.... I'm going to do a killer write up and pics, along with a video explanation, so people like me can really have an easier time with this. There's a few on youtube, but most of them speak as if I KNOW WHAT THEY'RE TALKING ABOUT! lol..... Just like my mean Dietary Physics Teacher! GRRRR! hahaha.