ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
11-21-2013, 08:19 PM
#8042
Hey Zach! Whats up man? I did post it up on my bill but I wish I had done more of a trip plan post... I even posted it on Instagram, and a couple guys responded but they couldn't go. if you have Instagram and kik, please add me or follow me or whatever it is and you'll know anything in the near future that comes up. Also, you could send me a text message if you have something coming up, or contact me in whatever way you want. So it started snowing right after we left right? I guess the rain and all that got pushed back by a day.....
There is one of the trip I'm not sure that I can go to in December... I'll post up as soon as I know all about it.
You're welcome anytime you want to go... You gotta winch, right?
There is one of the trip I'm not sure that I can go to in December... I'll post up as soon as I know all about it.
You're welcome anytime you want to go... You gotta winch, right?
11-21-2013, 09:02 PM
#8044
ok, ill find you on instagram. I have just been super busy with my new internship and have not been paying attention. What days did you go?
Nope no winch yet, I got the sliders on though...Before I go anywhere where a winch is required I want to get my lift kit installed and some real skid plates. That truck still is my daily driver sometimes so im looking for fun/challenging but nothing too crazy...
I didnt watch the video yet.
Nope no winch yet, I got the sliders on though...Before I go anywhere where a winch is required I want to get my lift kit installed and some real skid plates. That truck still is my daily driver sometimes so im looking for fun/challenging but nothing too crazy...
I didnt watch the video yet.
11-21-2013, 09:03 PM
#8045
Registered User
Haha, being stuck on John Bull for the night wouldn't be so bad...I never go wheeling without camping gear!
Maybe it is cause they're new, I'd usually do 12, 10 at the lowest without bead locks. Guess it could also be sizing. My 33x10.5's would appear to give more, even if they were giving the same amount.
Rubicon, eh? If my junk isn't ready by then, at least I'm on the way for you to pick up!
Maybe it is cause they're new, I'd usually do 12, 10 at the lowest without bead locks. Guess it could also be sizing. My 33x10.5's would appear to give more, even if they were giving the same amount.
Rubicon, eh? If my junk isn't ready by then, at least I'm on the way for you to pick up!
11-21-2013, 10:14 PM
#8046
Glad you had a good time, guys!
Sorry about glitch in engine fuse circuit, Mark.
Review what we talked about, I do not think the alarm could take ground from the door ajar switch. If it did, alarm would never make a sound IF door were closed. I think that tap to door ajar switch is a sensing input. When door ajar, switch is closed, grounding that input pin and telling alarm that door was opened, when it was not supposed to be. Looks like this:
Best way to test siren is to measure voltage between 2 wires across it. May need to strip tiny section of the insulation or prick each wire with pin. Use pins as test probes. Seal pin holes when done.
Sorry about glitch in engine fuse circuit, Mark.
Review what we talked about, I do not think the alarm could take ground from the door ajar switch. If it did, alarm would never make a sound IF door were closed. I think that tap to door ajar switch is a sensing input. When door ajar, switch is closed, grounding that input pin and telling alarm that door was opened, when it was not supposed to be. Looks like this:
Best way to test siren is to measure voltage between 2 wires across it. May need to strip tiny section of the insulation or prick each wire with pin. Use pins as test probes. Seal pin holes when done.
As I mentioned, Rad is a rad guy! Lol.....
Next, I should mention the fact, if I have not already, that the alarm in no way, at least 99.9 percent sure, causing the issues that I had. It was purely by coincidence... Actually, I'm not even sure that's the proper word. What happened was, while reaching up into the kick panel and messing with the flasher relay and so forth, I pushed a little button called the valet button for the alarm. Looking back a couple years ago when I got this installed, it all makes sense now and it came back to me that she did in fact explain what that button was. I just never had an instance to use it, so I forgot all about it! Hahaha.
http://m.youtube.com/home
I'm barely have any time but I'm trying to get to the schematics and so forth, Rad. I think I'll definitely appreciate your guidance through this. It is so awesome to have someone so calm about electronics on the other end! Hahaha. Tell me what you think after watching these videos, weather is revealing of anything to you or not. At least a couple little tests that I think most definitely rules out either one of the signals themselves. The wiring could still be the problem, and it's simply being activated or fried something fairly badly while turning right on the combination switch on arm for signals and headlights / hi beams. I'm not exactly sure if the hazards doing what they're doing is telling of anything at all. From what I remember you telling me the problem could still be in the turn signal lever, or the apparatus therein . By the way, I looked into Rock auto and it is $50 just for the left arm... Which appears as though it can be replaced. However, I don't think that that's what the problem is. I think the problem is actually in the contacts inside, if anything at all. Remember, and this might help anyone who knows anything about this stuff to help me.... When I push that left turn on ARM forward to activate the brights, not often necessarily, but more than I would like, the head lights go completely black. If I pull the lever backwards, there was never an issue, not one time. It always activates the brights when I pull that arm backwards. From what I remember reading, if you can find that from Toyota it is around $500 or more. I can't seem to find the entire assembly on rock auto. I'm not sure if that is because they don't want to deal with the cruise control or what. They often change the fitness thing so I cannot trust that it will work, as with the aftermarket window switch. It looks like I might be hunting in the yard if I can't figure out what went wrong in the stalk ( if that is indeed the problem.) I need to figure out how to test right at the combination control levers for voltage or resistance. I think that would help shorten the list of suspects as to whether the short is actually in the signal arm or apparatus, or whether it is in the wiring or possibly even kick panel fuse block.
11-22-2013, 03:58 AM
#8047
The post quoted below is from another thread around the same time last year. Rad, you commented on it a bit. I'm not sure I understand exactly what he saying.....exactly, lol....This thread...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/flasher-relay-shorting-out-1st-gen-runner-239284/ .... Post...16?...
"For the sake of future members searching for this problem... I found the problem. Although the circuit board where the flasher relay was plugging into(the female side) was testing fine at first realized it was intermittent for some reason ... not having/wanting to buy an entire board I bypassed the prong(right/farthest forward) with a separate 12v source. I bent the prong outward so it would not plug into the board as that way it was making my "BRAKE" light stay on even with the key out of the ignition(no idea why it was only that light). Thanks for those who gave input.˟So now I have blinkers again!"
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/flasher-relay-shorting-out-1st-gen-runner-239284/ .... Post...16?...
"For the sake of future members searching for this problem... I found the problem. Although the circuit board where the flasher relay was plugging into(the female side) was testing fine at first realized it was intermittent for some reason ... not having/wanting to buy an entire board I bypassed the prong(right/farthest forward) with a separate 12v source. I bent the prong outward so it would not plug into the board as that way it was making my "BRAKE" light stay on even with the key out of the ignition(no idea why it was only that light). Thanks for those who gave input.˟So now I have blinkers again!"
11-22-2013, 04:59 AM
#8048
Registered User
Thanks for the video Mark, thats been great entertainment. One day I'll have my rig back on the road.
Lights look incredible, definitely something to admire/copy onto my rig.
Lights look incredible, definitely something to admire/copy onto my rig.
11-22-2013, 07:19 AM
#8050
Registered User
I enjoyed the video, very nice. Also was curious about the "TG pump clearance issue" on the Red Wagon. On another note, Red wagon drove down from Canada and on the way stopped in WA and had Wild West install the BL LT, right?
Toyotech is right, that is a nice comparison of SAS and IFS LT. But also consider that Red Wagon isn't running LT in the rear, like the other two rigs right? Looks like a 2" lifted factory linked rear? And no twin stick or double low trans gears. Open in the front! What gears are in the differentials? Great Job Red Wagon!
Toyotech is right, that is a nice comparison of SAS and IFS LT. But also consider that Red Wagon isn't running LT in the rear, like the other two rigs right? Looks like a 2" lifted factory linked rear? And no twin stick or double low trans gears. Open in the front! What gears are in the differentials? Great Job Red Wagon!
11-22-2013, 08:43 AM
#8052
Mark,
You definitely have to take out turn signal module and at least inspect for obvious signs of shorts. It could be tiny metal "welding balls" formed when some contacts were arcing; Remember that headlight wiring flaw had subjected those contacts to unnecessarily high currents (approx 10 amps for high beam) repeatedly for the past 26 years.
It could not be the flasher relay because it is common to left and right hazards and turn signal. It could only be with the right turns signal circuit. When you use right turn signal, the short on that side drops voltage so incandescent right turn bulb is dim, lower voltage is still enough to turn on LED with no problem.
When you use left turn signal, short is completely isolated from left turn signal circuit, so you don't have a problem.
When you use hazards contacts 3, 9 & 8 connect left and turn signal circuits together, so the shot affects your left signal lights as well.
All of the above, plus the fact that you also have problem with your highs, really make the light stalk highly suspect.
You definitely have to take out turn signal module and at least inspect for obvious signs of shorts. It could be tiny metal "welding balls" formed when some contacts were arcing; Remember that headlight wiring flaw had subjected those contacts to unnecessarily high currents (approx 10 amps for high beam) repeatedly for the past 26 years.
It could not be the flasher relay because it is common to left and right hazards and turn signal. It could only be with the right turns signal circuit. When you use right turn signal, the short on that side drops voltage so incandescent right turn bulb is dim, lower voltage is still enough to turn on LED with no problem.
When you use left turn signal, short is completely isolated from left turn signal circuit, so you don't have a problem.
When you use hazards contacts 3, 9 & 8 connect left and turn signal circuits together, so the shot affects your left signal lights as well.
All of the above, plus the fact that you also have problem with your highs, really make the light stalk highly suspect.
11-22-2013, 08:49 AM
#8053
Registered User
mark terry showed how to fix the headlight thing the contacts have gotten corroded with carbon (all the amps flowing through) a bit of fine sand paper tween them an bam all fixed
youll have to pull the steering wheel an column cover to get into them
youll have to pull the steering wheel an column cover to get into them
11-22-2013, 09:17 AM
#8054
If High beam flash is good, but high-beam steady is out, my guess is ...
High beam switch contact between pins 5 & 13 arced, making welding balls and welding balls ended up somewhere around right turn signal contacts causing intermittent/partial short.
High beam switch contact between pins 5 & 13 arced, making welding balls and welding balls ended up somewhere around right turn signal contacts causing intermittent/partial short.
11-22-2013, 11:00 AM
#8055
I had so much help and motivation on the electrical info/mods end if things! Between you, RAD, Ian, Dragon, Paul, Terry, THOOK, Flecker, Richards helping hands on with a few things... AND MANY MORE.....it can all work out, and does with perseverance! Thanks to all you guys who help ne get stuff going/DONE!
I'm so freaking excited to see your truck done! Wish you were closer so we could wheel together!
I enjoyed the video, very nice. Also was curious about the "TG pump clearance issue" on the Red Wagon. On another note, Red wagon drove down from Canada and on the way stopped in WA and had Wild West install the BL LT, right?
Toyotech is right, that is a nice comparison of SAS and IFS LT. But also consider that Red Wagon isn't running LT in the rear, like the other two rigs right? Looks like a 2" lifted factory linked rear? And no twin stick or double low trans gears. Open in the front! What gears are in the differentials? Great Job Red Wagon!
Toyotech is right, that is a nice comparison of SAS and IFS LT. But also consider that Red Wagon isn't running LT in the rear, like the other two rigs right? Looks like a 2" lifted factory linked rear? And no twin stick or double low trans gears. Open in the front! What gears are in the differentials? Great Job Red Wagon!
3"BL and 3"(in reality) OME springs in rear. He did great, and not to take anything away from the BL kit, but he drove well and .....well, he has a heavy foot! haha... gunned it through much of it.. Oh, and he's on 35's, as I mention in the video. Very impressed with BL already, after watching/keeping up with Toyotech... RWagon bolstered my opinion of the BL!
Standard chain drive single case/5.29's??? Maybe 4.88/Open front (he's working on that quick/soon)
Mark,
You definitely have to take out turn signal module and at least inspect for obvious signs of shorts. It could be tiny metal "welding balls" formed when some contacts were arcing; Remember that headlight wiring flaw had subjected those contacts to unnecessarily high currents (approx 10 amps for high beam) repeatedly for the past 26 years.
It could not be the flasher relay because it is common to left and right hazards and turn signal. It could only be with the right turns signal circuit. When you use right turn signal, the short on that side drops voltage so incandescent right turn bulb is dim, lower voltage is still enough to turn on LED with no problem.
When you use left turn signal, short is completely isolated from left turn signal circuit, so you don't have a problem.
When you use hazards contacts 3, 9 & 8 connect left and turn signal circuits together, so the shot affects your left signal lights as well.
All of the above, plus the fact that you also have problem with your highs, really make the light stalk highly suspect.
You definitely have to take out turn signal module and at least inspect for obvious signs of shorts. It could be tiny metal "welding balls" formed when some contacts were arcing; Remember that headlight wiring flaw had subjected those contacts to unnecessarily high currents (approx 10 amps for high beam) repeatedly for the past 26 years.
It could not be the flasher relay because it is common to left and right hazards and turn signal. It could only be with the right turns signal circuit. When you use right turn signal, the short on that side drops voltage so incandescent right turn bulb is dim, lower voltage is still enough to turn on LED with no problem.
When you use left turn signal, short is completely isolated from left turn signal circuit, so you don't have a problem.
When you use hazards contacts 3, 9 & 8 connect left and turn signal circuits together, so the shot affects your left signal lights as well.
All of the above, plus the fact that you also have problem with your highs, really make the light stalk highly suspect.
Gotcha,....makes sense. So ur thinking that replacing the headlight harness will help lower the draw, at least in part, within the stalk apparatus.... Right? Either eayn it has to be inspected/cleaned up/possibly replaced,....right?
11-22-2013, 11:49 AM
#8057
Registered User
So it was like 2 am last night. Im catching up on your thread. I come across a picture of a Hamburger. You had a fancy name for it. I have never been so hungry in all my life. I wanted that hamburger. I considered making one..but my wife would throw a fit If I tried to cook at 2 am. I hope to someday have that hamburger.
4runner is beautiful as always.
4runner is beautiful as always.
11-22-2013, 02:54 PM
#8058
HAHAHA, .... sorry and you're welcome? ? ? Lol....
I wanted to share what I meant when I said I want to be like the snow monkeys in the hot springs...... They literally take them over in Japan...
Where I used to go at Hobo campground on the Kern River, Miracle Hot Springs,... It would often snow on us ... Just one of those experiences that I recommend everybody try. Simply awesome! I wish I could get my whole family up north a ways 2 Keough Hot Springs for Christmas! Lol... Not going to happen so I will just have to find some time to go myself this year... Maybe do some winter wheeling with JonnyBoy!
I wanted to share what I meant when I said I want to be like the snow monkeys in the hot springs...... They literally take them over in Japan...
Where I used to go at Hobo campground on the Kern River, Miracle Hot Springs,... It would often snow on us ... Just one of those experiences that I recommend everybody try. Simply awesome! I wish I could get my whole family up north a ways 2 Keough Hot Springs for Christmas! Lol... Not going to happen so I will just have to find some time to go myself this year... Maybe do some winter wheeling with JonnyBoy!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 11-22-2013 at 02:57 PM.
11-23-2013, 12:15 AM
#8059
Good Lord!.....
http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobil...ciaj?id=268073
I trying to get this figured out tomorrow, because Thanksgiving is my birthday and I want to take my truck, not to mention the fact that the Honda cannot hold nearly as much... I'm much more prefer the Honda's ability to get over hills and stuff... I don't know if any of you have ever driven in one, but the 2003 and up CR V's motors are quick... Anyway, like I said, I would really like to we'll on my birthday weekend... You know what I mean? I've been dying to get my dad to go with me, but he's just not likely ever going to do that again..
...
Anyway, RockAuto is coming in at $50 for the same darn Part! I'm hoping that I can dig into the connector and maybe find something as a suspect without too much difficulty .
What I'm really finding bizarre is the fact that the brand new relay, that was in fact the right part, did absolutely nothing when I plug it in. Nothing worked. The only thing I can think of is that I got a battery life. Just really trippin me out.
http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobil...ciaj?id=268073
I trying to get this figured out tomorrow, because Thanksgiving is my birthday and I want to take my truck, not to mention the fact that the Honda cannot hold nearly as much... I'm much more prefer the Honda's ability to get over hills and stuff... I don't know if any of you have ever driven in one, but the 2003 and up CR V's motors are quick... Anyway, like I said, I would really like to we'll on my birthday weekend... You know what I mean? I've been dying to get my dad to go with me, but he's just not likely ever going to do that again..
...Anyway, RockAuto is coming in at $50 for the same darn Part! I'm hoping that I can dig into the connector and maybe find something as a suspect without too much difficulty .
What I'm really finding bizarre is the fact that the brand new relay, that was in fact the right part, did absolutely nothing when I plug it in. Nothing worked. The only thing I can think of is that I got a battery life. Just really trippin me out.
11-23-2013, 12:38 AM
#8060
Super Moderator
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I will watch the video when I get home. My laptop at work is terrible for videos. I have some catching up to do on several threads but seen you were having horn issues. While in there, I clean the contacts to the headlight switch as well. Rent the steering wheel puller. I understand that you can get the brass ring on the back of the steering wheel for around $5 but have not checked into it.
Here is my high tech fix.
MORE INFO>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...icator-229946/
The Light Assembly I had before was from an 86 and it has another plug my 88 didnt have. I figured it was for some option mine didnt have so didnt think much about it. The white plug is what I am talking about on an 86 in this picture.
Today I got to looking at it (the white plug) and it runs to the wiper handle and I am guessing it is to the delay in the handle. So I then decided to see what I could do about my original Light assembly.
I took the Steering Wheel off. I have had mine off before and have it snug but not so tight I need a Steering Wheel Puller. If you havent had it off, dont bang on it as it will bulge the Steering shaft. Go rent a puller from the parts store. It is free.
You will need to drop the lower plastic panel and I diconnect the dimmer switch and just let it lay on the floor. Remove the Steering Wheel and the covers to the steering column.
There are 4 screws that hold the Light Switch Assembly on. They are recessed. Then disconnect the black clip that keeps all of the wire bundeled to the column and 2 screws that hold the blue connectors to the black tabs /clip.
Once I had it off, I had to take 2 screw out that hold the hazard light switch to the assembly, and set it out of the way. I then had to remove the clear plastic cover so as I could use my wife finger nail file (yeah.. she liked that idea) and went over the little copper tips on the copper layers. Just a couple of times to help make a good clean contact. Then I hit with some WD-40.
Here is a good picture of the contacts that need cleaned and more info if someone needs it.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-work-100088/
Put it back togther and everything works great. The 86 and 88 Light assemblys do have different part numbers on them and they interchanged and it got me thru. But it is nice having everything working as it should.
I did take my passenger kick panel off and didnt see a relay box there. Not saying it isnt, I just didnt want to pull the ECM and since I was able to test with a good wiper delay switch, I didnt need to go that far into it.
Found another link to a headlight problem I just wanted to add.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...icator-229946/
Here is how I fix my horn issue.
Got the horn to working. I used a .22 shell to make the contact to the steering wheel. I found this on Yotatech and like it better then how I used to fix my horns. I have it listed on my 88 4Runners build thread for more details about getting the horn to work on the first page. Will add this info at a later time.
Combo switch is around $40 at the boneyard here if you can find one. I just cleaned the contacts with some 1500 grit sand paper. Have it listed on the 88 runner build thread as well.
Here is my high tech fix.
MORE INFO>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...icator-229946/
The Light Assembly I had before was from an 86 and it has another plug my 88 didnt have. I figured it was for some option mine didnt have so didnt think much about it. The white plug is what I am talking about on an 86 in this picture.
Today I got to looking at it (the white plug) and it runs to the wiper handle and I am guessing it is to the delay in the handle. So I then decided to see what I could do about my original Light assembly.
I took the Steering Wheel off. I have had mine off before and have it snug but not so tight I need a Steering Wheel Puller. If you havent had it off, dont bang on it as it will bulge the Steering shaft. Go rent a puller from the parts store. It is free.
You will need to drop the lower plastic panel and I diconnect the dimmer switch and just let it lay on the floor. Remove the Steering Wheel and the covers to the steering column.
There are 4 screws that hold the Light Switch Assembly on. They are recessed. Then disconnect the black clip that keeps all of the wire bundeled to the column and 2 screws that hold the blue connectors to the black tabs /clip.
Once I had it off, I had to take 2 screw out that hold the hazard light switch to the assembly, and set it out of the way. I then had to remove the clear plastic cover so as I could use my wife finger nail file (yeah.. she liked that idea) and went over the little copper tips on the copper layers. Just a couple of times to help make a good clean contact. Then I hit with some WD-40.
Here is a good picture of the contacts that need cleaned and more info if someone needs it.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-work-100088/
Put it back togther and everything works great. The 86 and 88 Light assemblys do have different part numbers on them and they interchanged and it got me thru. But it is nice having everything working as it should.
I did take my passenger kick panel off and didnt see a relay box there. Not saying it isnt, I just didnt want to pull the ECM and since I was able to test with a good wiper delay switch, I didnt need to go that far into it.
Found another link to a headlight problem I just wanted to add.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...icator-229946/
Here is how I fix my horn issue.
Got the horn to working. I used a .22 shell to make the contact to the steering wheel. I found this on Yotatech and like it better then how I used to fix my horns. I have it listed on my 88 4Runners build thread for more details about getting the horn to work on the first page. Will add this info at a later time.
Combo switch is around $40 at the boneyard here if you can find one. I just cleaned the contacts with some 1500 grit sand paper. Have it listed on the 88 runner build thread as well.
