ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
09-28-2013, 09:44 PM
#7782
Oh yeahhhhhhh! Lol.... GOOD DEAL, TOO!............
Ready to do my alternator upgrade, headlight harness upgrade, roof lights, and the current project, in progress.....rock lights.
Couple hangups the last couple days, and busy tomorrow, but going to get some of it done on Monday!
Hope everyone is ok!
Ready to do my alternator upgrade, headlight harness upgrade, roof lights, and the current project, in progress.....rock lights.
Couple hangups the last couple days, and busy tomorrow, but going to get some of it done on Monday!
Hope everyone is ok!
09-29-2013, 08:39 AM
#7784
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Nevada
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Let me know how those lights work. I've been wanting to do some but I have a bunch of options. 18 sounds like a bunch but I guess you can never have too many lights right?
09-29-2013, 06:40 PM
#7786
Chef, your rig is looking great. Good to see your rig well represented in the thread on UY. 
I was definitely surprised, pleasantly, to see ole Ruby - RedRum being represented over there!
Indeed! They will definitely do the trick! Btw,........ great to hear from ya, Will! I was wondering how you've been doing?
09-29-2013, 07:11 PM
#7788
Hey guys.....
I didn't have much time today but with a few minutes I had I enjoyed using my battery that I haven't yet installed 2 roll around with me and test all the best spots for the rock lights possible locations....
I also follow the instructions first step to verify that all 18 light pods are working. Every single LED, 6 in each pod, all 18 of them, are working! ....
I really am impressed with the quality of them and how lite they are. I think it's a great bonus how small they are, and I'm pretty sure they put some thought into that.
I cleaned up most of the spots that I will be using, and I think I'm good to go to start installing it all tomorrow. The only thing but I'm not quite certain on just yet is the switch Factor. They show the remote control being optional in the kit, but the instructions never say that a switch is not needed when using said wireless remote control. I get it, you need a master switch whether you use the remote control or not... But, I would like to be able to leave the rock lights on at night without having to leave the ignition on..... BUT: all of my switches are lighted... That means, if I want it to be constant hot( you know, so that I can find the truck a little easier at night for sure someone where it is or use it before I get in the car)... , .... Then my soft touch LED switch will always be lit. I suppose I could look into that as to how much power they use, I'm pretty sure it's very very minimal... I just don't like having to leave it on all the time. I suppose I could install a small breaker?
I had a talk with Toyo, and I'm thinking of tying those lights into my door ajar switch as well.... He seems to like that idea as well and I'm just wondering, if I do this, what it be the best way to do this by adding a diode between the door switch and the ground or power supply? ( I'm trying to remember, but as recall of hand, that door switch is a switched ground style isn't it? What I mean is, as the door opens and the button is released, it completes the ground? No? I'll figure all that out but I just wondered if the plan in the diagram below would work? Forgive me, it's a jeep owners write up, but he did a great job and even though he is using different lights, I'm guessing it's still the same concept? Its just that my wire want be a yellow wire with a white stripe as described in his caption ).....
Here is the Xk glow instructions...
I can understand but I would need to turn the switch on an order to operate the remote... But, I want to wire it so that A second option will work, if the remote battery goes bad or something of the sort.
It will all be running off of my auxiliary fuse block, and off of only one terminal considering all together the pole something like 2amps. This allows you to add a lot more of these pods if you want, something like a maximum of 75, as it says the control module operates a maximum of 8 amps.
Sorry guys, it's just that it confuses me because it says this wireless remote control is optional but doesn't mention anything about the instructions changing whatsoever.
I didn't have much time today but with a few minutes I had I enjoyed using my battery that I haven't yet installed 2 roll around with me and test all the best spots for the rock lights possible locations....
I also follow the instructions first step to verify that all 18 light pods are working. Every single LED, 6 in each pod, all 18 of them, are working!
.... I really am impressed with the quality of them and how lite they are. I think it's a great bonus how small they are, and I'm pretty sure they put some thought into that.
I cleaned up most of the spots that I will be using, and I think I'm good to go to start installing it all tomorrow. The only thing but I'm not quite certain on just yet is the switch Factor. They show the remote control being optional in the kit, but the instructions never say that a switch is not needed when using said wireless remote control. I get it, you need a master switch whether you use the remote control or not... But, I would like to be able to leave the rock lights on at night without having to leave the ignition on..... BUT: all of my switches are lighted... That means, if I want it to be constant hot( you know, so that I can find the truck a little easier at night for sure someone where it is or use it before I get in the car)... , .... Then my soft touch LED switch will always be lit. I suppose I could look into that as to how much power they use, I'm pretty sure it's very very minimal... I just don't like having to leave it on all the time. I suppose I could install a small breaker?
I had a talk with Toyo, and I'm thinking of tying those lights into my door ajar switch as well.... He seems to like that idea as well and I'm just wondering, if I do this, what it be the best way to do this by adding a diode between the door switch and the ground or power supply? ( I'm trying to remember, but as recall of hand, that door switch is a switched ground style isn't it? What I mean is, as the door opens and the button is released, it completes the ground? No? I'll figure all that out but I just wondered if the plan in the diagram below would work? Forgive me, it's a jeep owners write up, but he did a great job and even though he is using different lights, I'm guessing it's still the same concept? Its just that my wire want be a yellow wire with a white stripe as described in his caption ).....
Here is the Xk glow instructions...
I can understand but I would need to turn the switch on an order to operate the remote... But, I want to wire it so that A second option will work, if the remote battery goes bad or something of the sort.
It will all be running off of my auxiliary fuse block, and off of only one terminal considering all together the pole something like 2amps. This allows you to add a lot more of these pods if you want, something like a maximum of 75, as it says the control module operates a maximum of 8 amps.
Sorry guys, it's just that it confuses me because it says this wireless remote control is optional but doesn't mention anything about the instructions changing whatsoever.
09-29-2013, 07:50 PM
#7789
Registered User
im alive, got 3rd attempt of shock bushings they look like they'll work not exact
i did get a milestone im over 500 miles on my engine but the fluid changes will have to wait got to do the front brakes come the 3rd the pulsing in them is bad figure to do the shocks when in there doing rotors an calipers pads ect
i did get a milestone im over 500 miles on my engine but the fluid changes will have to wait got to do the front brakes come the 3rd the pulsing in them is bad figure to do the shocks when in there doing rotors an calipers pads ect
09-30-2013, 10:31 AM
#7791
im alive, got 3rd attempt of shock bushings they look like they'll work not exact
i did get a milestone im over 500 miles on my engine but the fluid changes will have to wait got to do the front brakes come the 3rd the pulsing in them is bad figure to do the shocks when in there doing rotors an calipers pads ect
i did get a milestone im over 500 miles on my engine but the fluid changes will have to wait got to do the front brakes come the 3rd the pulsing in them is bad figure to do the shocks when in there doing rotors an calipers pads ect
Sounds like you have quite a bit ahead of you, and I'm very glad to hear everything's okay!
Ace-Alternators of I believe Whittier, California. He sells on ebay but he also has a store, where he rebuilds Denso alternators to 130 amps, using a larger 3-wire stater to help dissipate the additional heat, etc. You can call him and talk to him anytime, he was a helpful guy and never really tried to push anything on me. On top of that, he explained a couple other options for upgrades and why he prefers certain ones over others....
09-30-2013, 11:36 AM
#7793
Hey guys, I was asking about whether anyone knew if I needed to switch or not for the rock lights. It looks as though I do not. The reason I do not want to switch because it would have been one that I tied into the radio bezel with the other soft touch, flush mounted, LED lit Pilot switches..... The problem there in is that I do not want these to have to go off of the ignition switch, I want them hot all day. The remote has a cover and so I wouldn't have to worry so much about the lights getting switched on, and I could carry an extra battery for the remote. Also, I have plenty of extra switches, & I could easily keep one in my glove box with some quick connect connectors that would allow me to just tie in anytime if my remote went bad. But like toyota says, " the less wiring the better"... All I need is a primary pair of black and red running down each side to tie the rest of the wires into. I will solder everything so I am NOT going to use those quick connects . However I always have them on hand for an emergency.
Here is the comment that I read and this name sounds familiar but I cannot find his link. I sent him a message I'm waiting for him to respond.....
http://www.amazon.com/review/R29HI91...ore=automotive
In his comment he says he has an FJ Cruiser... So there you go, I might have seen it browsing Google, stumbled across it on pirate or something.
I gotta say, I also like the Oznium individual & 3 pod submersible rock lights as well... They put off tons of light and are very inconspicuous. You could easily mount them into your plastic fender skirt in a couple spots, and they are designed to where if you drill just right, you can pop the bottom for mounting side in very easily and they stay put really well.
I like Toyo's kit as well, and at any time if I don't like these I could either remove them or just add a few like Toyo used, or I could also just switch out to those all together ....
However, they seem to be pretty nice and I think it will do the trick!
Here is the comment that I read and this name sounds familiar but I cannot find his link. I sent him a message I'm waiting for him to respond.....
http://www.amazon.com/review/R29HI91...ore=automotive
In his comment he says he has an FJ Cruiser... So there you go, I might have seen it browsing Google, stumbled across it on pirate or something.
I gotta say, I also like the Oznium individual & 3 pod submersible rock lights as well... They put off tons of light and are very inconspicuous. You could easily mount them into your plastic fender skirt in a couple spots, and they are designed to where if you drill just right, you can pop the bottom for mounting side in very easily and they stay put really well.
I like Toyo's kit as well, and at any time if I don't like these I could either remove them or just add a few like Toyo used, or I could also just switch out to those all together ....
However, they seem to be pretty nice and I think it will do the trick!
09-30-2013, 04:15 PM
#7794
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That's a great battery! I was comparing the Interstate MT7 absorbed glass mat to that one and the die-hard has 50 more CCA, same 4 year replacement, and is about $50 -$100 less depending on coupon/discount codes at the time.
I was going to do that battery before leaving for mammoth but held off. I almost regretted it because my truck sat at camp for 4 days and when I started it up my battery light went on, had to let it idle and let my alt charge it up and then it was fine again. I need to remember to do this battery before I get stranded somewhere.
I was going to do that battery before leaving for mammoth but held off. I almost regretted it because my truck sat at camp for 4 days and when I started it up my battery light went on, had to let it idle and let my alt charge it up and then it was fine again. I need to remember to do this battery before I get stranded somewhere.
09-30-2013, 05:16 PM
#7797
Independent Power Source Better, Cleaner, More Robust
I would stay away from adding to stock circuit, unless absolutely necessary. Taking power from your distribution block would be more robust, cleaner, simpler and will keep it hot anytime you need it.
It also means that you would not be adding load to stock FL and fuse network that is designed for stock circuit. more current flow through stock FL-Fuse network (fuse block) would mean more voltage drops there, meaning potentially less predictable operation of critical systems - that are really needed to make truck run... ECU, ignition, EFI...
Keeping additional circuits to distribution block would also simplify troubleshooting, especially if others (who usually go by stock schematic) are involved.
All those "auto" stuff that elicit "WOW!" today but could easily turn to "OUCH!" tomorrow. Maybe it's just me because I like minimal & simple - reason I got the first-gen in the first place.
BTW, How come you turned battery 180°? I hope the side positive terminal connection and cable are clear of the body (not rubbing).
14V-ish is just right. Expect "B" wire (alt-to-batt) to have 13.5 to 14.5 volts when engine is running. Outside that range for extended period you would get charge error light.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-30-2013 at 06:01 PM.
09-30-2013, 05:18 PM
#7798
Registered User
Can't....................stop..................... staring............at...........the...........rust ed......hold down............., Sorry my OCD was running rampant...
I'm better now Looking good dude.
Except for that rusted battery hold down...
I'm better now
Looking good dude.Except for that rusted battery hold down...
09-30-2013, 06:36 PM
#7800
Registered User
Yea or some sort of carbon fiber but na just giving you crap the brand new battery enhances the surface rust. It's yelling at me like the stain on the tide commercial
but na just giving you crap the brand new battery enhances the surface rust. It's yelling at me like the stain on the tide commercial
