ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
09-16-2013, 03:08 PM
#7721
i still like the to see it mounted it where the jack is. imo. and especially if i had a 350$ compressor i would rather have it inside protected from the elements. mount a cool little lighted computer fan on the access door and done. clean hidden install.
did you not wanna consider using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. if you blow a fuse on the trail while using the compressor, you have to carry extra fuses, im sure those high amp fuses are not cheap. i use a circuit breaker for my compressor and a few times, the initial draw of the compressor from turning own tripped the breaker. a quick reset and i was back in action. just a thought
did you not wanna consider using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. if you blow a fuse on the trail while using the compressor, you have to carry extra fuses, im sure those high amp fuses are not cheap. i use a circuit breaker for my compressor and a few times, the initial draw of the compressor from turning own tripped the breaker. a quick reset and i was back in action. just a thought
09-16-2013, 03:36 PM
#7722
Hey Ray, thanx. ....
Well, in regards to having a bigger amp fuse, I notice that with almost all systems the fusible link as in the case of R motors is atm while the alternator is 60. It says right on the Toyota book that with Toyota 50 amp alternators the used 60 amp fuse and with 60 amp alternator is the used obviously what we have the 80 amp fuse.
PS; I am just fully coming to grips with all of this, but isn't the reason they put a larger fuse in due to the fact that, well, if the alternator puts out 60 amps in the case of stock, and they use a 60 amp fuse, wouldn't just snap a few every time you have maximum amperage draw? Same with the 130 using a 150 amp fuse? That way, if it surges, then it will blow the fuse and only then......??????
Well, in regards to having a bigger amp fuse, I notice that with almost all systems the fusible link as in the case of R motors is atm while the alternator is 60. It says right on the Toyota book that with Toyota 50 amp alternators the used 60 amp fuse and with 60 amp alternator is the used obviously what we have the 80 amp fuse.
PS; I am just fully coming to grips with all of this, but isn't the reason they put a larger fuse in due to the fact that, well, if the alternator puts out 60 amps in the case of stock, and they use a 60 amp fuse, wouldn't just snap a few every time you have maximum amperage draw? Same with the 130 using a 150 amp fuse? That way, if it surges, then it will blow the fuse and only then......??????
Agree with higher fuse rating, but need to figure out by how much...
On ours with 60 amp-alt stock, charging current goes from alt through 80-amp fuse then main 80-amp FL (wire). Amp value is 1.33 x alternator capacity.
Based on that, 1.33 x 130-amp = 172.9 amps would be safe.
150-amps safer.
Either way way, since battery and alternator are in parallel, battery would always be there to handle most of the current during peak demand.
Just not sure what peak demand current would be, worst-case:
Cranking (starting), Turning compressor on, turning winch on, while all lights are one an Bob Seger blaring
Does anyone know?
-Ray
09-16-2013, 08:13 PM
#7724
i still like the to see it mounted it where the jack is. imo. and especially if i had a 350$ compressor i would rather have it inside protected from the elements. mount a cool little lighted computer fan on the access door and done. clean hidden install.
did you not wanna consider using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. if you blow a fuse on the trail while using the compressor, you have to carry extra fuses, im sure those high amp fuses are not cheap. i use a circuit breaker for my compressor and a few times, the initial draw of the compressor from turning own tripped the breaker. a quick reset and i was back in action. just a thought
did you not wanna consider using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. if you blow a fuse on the trail while using the compressor, you have to carry extra fuses, im sure those high amp fuses are not cheap. i use a circuit breaker for my compressor and a few times, the initial draw of the compressor from turning own tripped the breaker. a quick reset and i was back in action. just a thought
I did think of that, Toyo.... Upon researching, I read a 'Roger' type masters in electronics guy saying "NEVER use a breaker for high demand auto applications"..... Then, i read on Boss Suspensions site ( http://www.bossairsuspension.com.au/...r-compressors/ ) ,
" Please note: A suitable circuit breaker must be used for protecting your 12 volt air compressor, along with a check valve to prevent air back flow. Do not oil these compressors. Do not exceed maximum pressure 200psi." .... hmmmmmmn, haha. This is why I say to read more than one write up and read manuf's notations. While some of the manuf's exaggerate specs at times, most of them are interested in helping you preserve the thing to prevent warranty arguments and so forth......
Maybe a Breaker before a fuse? Hehe
It seems to be working for you, so I don't think it's too bad of an idea from what I see therein your practical application as well
Hi Mark,
Agree with higher fuse rating, but need to figure out by how much...
On ours with 60 amp-alt stock, charging current goes from alt through 80-amp fuse then main 80-amp FL (wire). Amp value is 1.33 x alternator capacity.
Based on that, 1.33 x 130-amp = 172.9 amps would be safe.
150-amps safer.
Either way way, since battery and alternator are in parallel, battery would always be there to handle most of the current during peak demand.
Just not sure what peak demand current would be, worst-case:
Cranking (starting), Turning compressor on, turning winch on, while all lights are one an Bob Seger blaring
Does anyone know?
-Ray
Btw; 150A it is!
Woooot! I concur, it's always enlightening when ppl like Rad, Toyo, RBX, Ian, Terry, Toyospearo, Roger, Jason, XXX, Jerry, Logan, Vitale, Thook and many more chime into certain subjects
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 09-16-2013 at 08:18 PM.
09-16-2013, 08:24 PM
#7725
Just wanted to share this.....
I'm sure this has been discussed in this probably even a thread, but I haven't found it just yet. Odyssey batteries, very respected in a min AMG style batteries, in fact to the point that many are choosing them over Optima, apparently make all of the diehard platinum AMG batteries for Sears. In fact, according to this guy, it looks as though they are the same battery with a Sears name on them.... For around $100 less then the $300 on Odyssey wants. ....
Well anyway, I'll let you just read up for yourself... & I will copy and paste it for those who don't often have the option to just click on the link with their phone...
http://www.4x4extremesports.com/inde...latinum_p2.php
" DieHard Platinum P-2 Group 65 AGM Battery ...
I'VE ALWAYS BEEN˟an˟Optima fan. My family has run them in everything that takes a car battery since the mid 1980s. Their amazing durability and long life in everything from tractors, boats, RVs and hotrods to crawlers always made the question of what battery to buy for the next thing a moot point. With that understanding the decision to switch to a completely different manufacture was not done lightly or without some serious qualms.˟Unfortunately, Optima's apparent ups and downs with quality control and their lack of group 65 alternative for the Yellow or Blue top 'forced' me into a search I didn't really want to start. However, it turned out the search was worth it.˟The first thing I found out is that there are a lot of options for anyone searching for an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) dry cell battery now days. The second thing I found out is that there are only a few options if you want a GOOD AGM battery - one that isn't manufactured in China or the Philippines or somewhere else using slave labor. The third thing I found out is that most of what was left of my search was actually the SAME BATTERY with someone else's label stuck to the outside. That in itself isn't necessarily a bad thing but it is confusing when you're searching for batteries.˟So, after searching until I couldn't see straight I finally lighted on the˟Odyssey battery web site. These were batteries I was somewhat familiar with. A lot of the street rod and race crowd have run these for years and everyone seemed to be happy with them. Unfortunately, they're not cheap and while they may work great in a muscle car I wasn't familiar with anyone that had one in any kind of a serious off road vehicle. Still, the rumor was that Odyssey batteries were very durable and the warranty was pretty impressive. Kind of harkened back to the good old days of Optima.˟After a little more surfing I found Odyssey's PC1750 Group 65 battery. The Group 65 size is the largest battery that can be practically fitted in a Montero Sport without surgery. The Odyssey Group 65 is a BIG, HEAVY battery. It's not real tall but it is long and it weighs in at 60 lbs. The Odyssey just fits lengthwise with about an inch to spare on each end.˟Ok. So, I'd found a battery that fit, had the required storage capacity and I was relatively sure wouldn't croak and leave me stranded in the middle of the Utah desert somewhere. Unfortunately, the price was in the upper $200s. Eeak! Yea, I'd found a battery all right and for that price I'd better be REALLY happy with it.
That's the problem with buying car batteries. It's not like you can buy one, try it out for a few months and then take it back for a full refund if you're not happy with it. Time for some more surfing. I'd need a lot more convincing before shelling out that kind of cash on a battery.˟Eventually, after a couple of days of half-hearted surfing I stumbled across a couple buried posts commenting on the˟Sears DieHard Platinum series˟being the˟same batteries as the Odyssey AGM batteries. In fact, after some more research and a few phone calls I did find out that, yes, Odyssey does produce the Platinum AGM batteries for Sears. The only difference is cosmetic. Ok, the only difference is cosmetic and price. Almost a $100 dollars difference in price, in fact. $200 for the Platinum P-2 Group 65 was much more comparable to the old Optima Blue Top prices.˟A quick trip to the closest Sears auto store and I had my new battery. A shiny new Sears Platinum P-2 Group 65. This is the 'rebadged' Odyssey PC1750. Something to note here. I didn't pick any particular Sears and Denver isn't noted for being a great place to find large stocks of any product. Nevertheless, when I walked in there was a large rack of several of every type of DieHard Platinum I'd seen on Sears' web store. That was a very pleasant surprise. I've long since gotten very tired of having to order Optima Blue Tops a week to two weeks in advance because no one in Denver wants to stock them.˟Time to install this puppy. I already knew the Platinum P-2 was shorter (height) and longer but I'd measured things well in advance so I didn't forsee any problems there. I also knew this was going to be a much heavier battery than stock. I liked the stock Mitsubishi J bolts as these are nice and heavy but I wasn't willing to chop mine up in case I ever intended to put the Optima (or other taller) battery back in. A quick trip to Napa netted me a pair of shorter, hefty battery hold down J bolts for about $8.˟First, I removed the existing Optima Blue Top and took out the stock plastic battery tray. I trimmed a notch into the engine side to clear the factory hold down clamp and new shorter J bolt. A good razor knife did the job there. I put the tray back into the engine bay and set the new battery in place. God, I hope I never have to take this thing out on the trail! 60 lbs. doesn't sound like much until you're trying to fit it into an engine bay without pulling a back muscle.˟So far, so good. Everything fit and there's still good clearance. Time to hook up the battery cables and see what happens. Ummm. This isn't good. Neither clamp fits. Both are too big. ??? Oh, yea, that's right. The Odyssey uses tin plated brass posts.Long ago I'd put 'inserts' into my original terminals because they'd enlarged themselves as lead terminals tend to do if they've been taken off and put back on about 200 times in 12 years. Taking the 'sleeves' off the Optima and putting them on the DieHard at least got me to the point where I could put the cables back on - more or less. Mostly less. Oh, well, I was planning on replacing the terminals anyway and they were on well enough to start and drive it until I could get replacements.˟So, on to starting and driving! The DieHard Platinum P-2 is about a 1/4 'more' battery than the Optima Blue Top and they're both AGM deep cycle starting batteries. Without going into mind numbing technical (and marketing) detail there's not really much difference otherwise. I expected a quarter more battery and that's pretty much what I got - both in physical size and capacity.˟The only specific thing I found with the Platinum P-2 that was somewhat unexpected is that it appears to take a charge much faster than either the Optima Blue or Yellow Top batteries. Otherwise, like I said above it's what I expected. Which turned out to be a good thing because two months after install I got to do a first hand, unplaned 'stress test'.˟Rolling out of Moab on vacation in April the alternator in my Montero Sport died just as we crossed the bridge heading north to Green River on highway 191. I already knew that the nearest replacement alternator was in Grand Junction at the AutoZone (my spare was back in Denver, of course) so the choice came down to trying to make it to Grand Junction before they closed and risk spending the night in the parking lot or continue on to Green River and check in to the hotel there. Moab was booked solid so no options there. Oh, and did I mention it was getting dark and it was warm enough to turn on the dual electric engine cooling fans? I was reasonably certain I could make the 85 miles or so to Green River on just battery power - the new P-2 had AT LEAST the power of my old Blue Top and I've pushed that battery to the hairy edge more than a few times. Live on the edge, I always say! An hour and a half latter we rolled into the hotel in Green River. The volt meter was reading about 11 volts. Well, I still had head lights so I was happy.˟The next morning after discussing our very limited options over breakfast I decided to continue on to Grand Junction to pick up a new alternator. I probably should have stopped at the truck stop and had them charge the battery back up but by this time I was more than a little curious to see how far I could push the new battery. Honestly, I expected the battery to be mostly dead by the time we rolled in the night before but when I went out to start the truck up in the morning it started just fine and the needle was sitting right around 11 volts. Like I said, live on the edge. Another hour and a half latter we rolled into the AutoZone with the volt meter hovering around 8.5-9 volts. It was obvious by this time the battery was seriously discharged. Thankfully it was cool enough that the fans didn't come on much and I didn't need head lights. Still, after installing the new alternator my Sport started without so much as a hic-cup. About 170 miles on battery power isn't bad especially for an electricity sucking computer controlled vehicle.˟It's been a year now that I've been running the Sears Platinum P-2 Group 65 battery and its been great. I've accidently left the interior lights on (over a weekend) half a dozen times and I've discharged the battery to the point the vehicle wouldn't start a couple times and it behaves no differently than it did when it was new. I've also spent 30-40 minutes at a time running my Warn XD9000 winch pulling vehicles out of the snow and back onto trails and that barely touches the battery. One thing I have to say - this battery has a lot of reserve capacity.˟So, overall I'm extremely pleased with the DieHard Platinum P-2. I have to agree with the many comments I've read. Odyssey does appear to produce a very high quality product."
I'm sure this has been discussed in this probably even a thread, but I haven't found it just yet. Odyssey batteries, very respected in a min AMG style batteries, in fact to the point that many are choosing them over Optima, apparently make all of the diehard platinum AMG batteries for Sears. In fact, according to this guy, it looks as though they are the same battery with a Sears name on them.... For around $100 less then the $300 on Odyssey wants. ....
Well anyway, I'll let you just read up for yourself... & I will copy and paste it for those who don't often have the option to just click on the link with their phone...
http://www.4x4extremesports.com/inde...latinum_p2.php
" DieHard Platinum P-2 Group 65 AGM Battery ...
I'VE ALWAYS BEEN˟an˟Optima fan. My family has run them in everything that takes a car battery since the mid 1980s. Their amazing durability and long life in everything from tractors, boats, RVs and hotrods to crawlers always made the question of what battery to buy for the next thing a moot point. With that understanding the decision to switch to a completely different manufacture was not done lightly or without some serious qualms.˟Unfortunately, Optima's apparent ups and downs with quality control and their lack of group 65 alternative for the Yellow or Blue top 'forced' me into a search I didn't really want to start. However, it turned out the search was worth it.˟The first thing I found out is that there are a lot of options for anyone searching for an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) dry cell battery now days. The second thing I found out is that there are only a few options if you want a GOOD AGM battery - one that isn't manufactured in China or the Philippines or somewhere else using slave labor. The third thing I found out is that most of what was left of my search was actually the SAME BATTERY with someone else's label stuck to the outside. That in itself isn't necessarily a bad thing but it is confusing when you're searching for batteries.˟So, after searching until I couldn't see straight I finally lighted on the˟Odyssey battery web site. These were batteries I was somewhat familiar with. A lot of the street rod and race crowd have run these for years and everyone seemed to be happy with them. Unfortunately, they're not cheap and while they may work great in a muscle car I wasn't familiar with anyone that had one in any kind of a serious off road vehicle. Still, the rumor was that Odyssey batteries were very durable and the warranty was pretty impressive. Kind of harkened back to the good old days of Optima.˟After a little more surfing I found Odyssey's PC1750 Group 65 battery. The Group 65 size is the largest battery that can be practically fitted in a Montero Sport without surgery. The Odyssey Group 65 is a BIG, HEAVY battery. It's not real tall but it is long and it weighs in at 60 lbs. The Odyssey just fits lengthwise with about an inch to spare on each end.˟Ok. So, I'd found a battery that fit, had the required storage capacity and I was relatively sure wouldn't croak and leave me stranded in the middle of the Utah desert somewhere. Unfortunately, the price was in the upper $200s. Eeak! Yea, I'd found a battery all right and for that price I'd better be REALLY happy with it.
That's the problem with buying car batteries. It's not like you can buy one, try it out for a few months and then take it back for a full refund if you're not happy with it. Time for some more surfing. I'd need a lot more convincing before shelling out that kind of cash on a battery.˟Eventually, after a couple of days of half-hearted surfing I stumbled across a couple buried posts commenting on the˟Sears DieHard Platinum series˟being the˟same batteries as the Odyssey AGM batteries. In fact, after some more research and a few phone calls I did find out that, yes, Odyssey does produce the Platinum AGM batteries for Sears. The only difference is cosmetic. Ok, the only difference is cosmetic and price. Almost a $100 dollars difference in price, in fact. $200 for the Platinum P-2 Group 65 was much more comparable to the old Optima Blue Top prices.˟A quick trip to the closest Sears auto store and I had my new battery. A shiny new Sears Platinum P-2 Group 65. This is the 'rebadged' Odyssey PC1750. Something to note here. I didn't pick any particular Sears and Denver isn't noted for being a great place to find large stocks of any product. Nevertheless, when I walked in there was a large rack of several of every type of DieHard Platinum I'd seen on Sears' web store. That was a very pleasant surprise. I've long since gotten very tired of having to order Optima Blue Tops a week to two weeks in advance because no one in Denver wants to stock them.˟Time to install this puppy. I already knew the Platinum P-2 was shorter (height) and longer but I'd measured things well in advance so I didn't forsee any problems there. I also knew this was going to be a much heavier battery than stock. I liked the stock Mitsubishi J bolts as these are nice and heavy but I wasn't willing to chop mine up in case I ever intended to put the Optima (or other taller) battery back in. A quick trip to Napa netted me a pair of shorter, hefty battery hold down J bolts for about $8.˟First, I removed the existing Optima Blue Top and took out the stock plastic battery tray. I trimmed a notch into the engine side to clear the factory hold down clamp and new shorter J bolt. A good razor knife did the job there. I put the tray back into the engine bay and set the new battery in place. God, I hope I never have to take this thing out on the trail! 60 lbs. doesn't sound like much until you're trying to fit it into an engine bay without pulling a back muscle.˟So far, so good. Everything fit and there's still good clearance. Time to hook up the battery cables and see what happens. Ummm. This isn't good. Neither clamp fits. Both are too big. ??? Oh, yea, that's right. The Odyssey uses tin plated brass posts.Long ago I'd put 'inserts' into my original terminals because they'd enlarged themselves as lead terminals tend to do if they've been taken off and put back on about 200 times in 12 years. Taking the 'sleeves' off the Optima and putting them on the DieHard at least got me to the point where I could put the cables back on - more or less. Mostly less. Oh, well, I was planning on replacing the terminals anyway and they were on well enough to start and drive it until I could get replacements.˟So, on to starting and driving! The DieHard Platinum P-2 is about a 1/4 'more' battery than the Optima Blue Top and they're both AGM deep cycle starting batteries. Without going into mind numbing technical (and marketing) detail there's not really much difference otherwise. I expected a quarter more battery and that's pretty much what I got - both in physical size and capacity.˟The only specific thing I found with the Platinum P-2 that was somewhat unexpected is that it appears to take a charge much faster than either the Optima Blue or Yellow Top batteries. Otherwise, like I said above it's what I expected. Which turned out to be a good thing because two months after install I got to do a first hand, unplaned 'stress test'.˟Rolling out of Moab on vacation in April the alternator in my Montero Sport died just as we crossed the bridge heading north to Green River on highway 191. I already knew that the nearest replacement alternator was in Grand Junction at the AutoZone (my spare was back in Denver, of course) so the choice came down to trying to make it to Grand Junction before they closed and risk spending the night in the parking lot or continue on to Green River and check in to the hotel there. Moab was booked solid so no options there. Oh, and did I mention it was getting dark and it was warm enough to turn on the dual electric engine cooling fans? I was reasonably certain I could make the 85 miles or so to Green River on just battery power - the new P-2 had AT LEAST the power of my old Blue Top and I've pushed that battery to the hairy edge more than a few times. Live on the edge, I always say! An hour and a half latter we rolled into the hotel in Green River. The volt meter was reading about 11 volts. Well, I still had head lights so I was happy.˟The next morning after discussing our very limited options over breakfast I decided to continue on to Grand Junction to pick up a new alternator. I probably should have stopped at the truck stop and had them charge the battery back up but by this time I was more than a little curious to see how far I could push the new battery. Honestly, I expected the battery to be mostly dead by the time we rolled in the night before but when I went out to start the truck up in the morning it started just fine and the needle was sitting right around 11 volts. Like I said, live on the edge. Another hour and a half latter we rolled into the AutoZone with the volt meter hovering around 8.5-9 volts. It was obvious by this time the battery was seriously discharged. Thankfully it was cool enough that the fans didn't come on much and I didn't need head lights. Still, after installing the new alternator my Sport started without so much as a hic-cup. About 170 miles on battery power isn't bad especially for an electricity sucking computer controlled vehicle.˟It's been a year now that I've been running the Sears Platinum P-2 Group 65 battery and its been great. I've accidently left the interior lights on (over a weekend) half a dozen times and I've discharged the battery to the point the vehicle wouldn't start a couple times and it behaves no differently than it did when it was new. I've also spent 30-40 minutes at a time running my Warn XD9000 winch pulling vehicles out of the snow and back onto trails and that barely touches the battery. One thing I have to say - this battery has a lot of reserve capacity.˟So, overall I'm extremely pleased with the DieHard Platinum P-2. I have to agree with the many comments I've read. Odyssey does appear to produce a very high quality product."
09-16-2013, 10:13 PM
#7726
Venting, Charging Circuit
Also, how about an exterior one-way vent like that on the older FJ's?
First, I would only need maybe the headlights while airing up the compressor.... And, I only plan to use it when the engine is running...And, I'm starting with only one AZ OB2 compressor rated at 35 amps max. I think whatever AMG battery I get should be able to handle it no
Also, I do not think compressor control really lets tank empty completely. Rather, it would turn compressor on whenever pressure in reservoir tank goes below a certain level. Therefore, compressor will not really run as long as it takes it re-fill an empty 5-gallon tank. Meaning less demand on power supply.
ANDDDD, lol,.....I don't power my amplifier on trips, cuz I leave my sub
Thanks for the info on the Diehard's, Mark. I'm also shopping for a battery 'cause mine's leaking around the positive post.
Finally, it would be nice if we could hear others' opinion or, and better yet first-hand experience with, alt-batt connection above. Any concerns?
09-17-2013, 12:33 AM
#7727
I made my own panels, Rad, remember? They are now half inch birch and a fully insulated panel interior, no vents what so ever.
Vent to the outside? Sounds good to me but I am NOT cutting holes in the rear quarter panel! Lol. However, I may be able to rig a high temp silicone box shape tunnel to come off the top of the fan en route it out of a vent I could make in the access panel door... Which again is half inch birch wood covered with that rug. I guess, as long as it wasn't restricted, the exhaust heat could get out right? All just thoughts..... But if I did put it in the panel it would definitely have to be well ventilated. It would definitely be quite a bit of work.
My pleasure on sharing the battery information... That is likely the route that I will go.
Vent to the outside? Sounds good to me but I am NOT cutting holes in the rear quarter panel! Lol. However, I may be able to rig a high temp silicone box shape tunnel to come off the top of the fan en route it out of a vent I could make in the access panel door... Which again is half inch birch wood covered with that rug. I guess, as long as it wasn't restricted, the exhaust heat could get out right? All just thoughts..... But if I did put it in the panel it would definitely have to be well ventilated. It would definitely be quite a bit of work.
My pleasure on sharing the battery information... That is likely the route that I will go.
09-17-2013, 09:13 AM
#7728
Yep, I remember now. Just gotta have exhaust vent for fan and intake vents below. The closer the air stream from intake to exhaust to the hottest part of compressor the better.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-17-2013 at 09:15 AM.
09-18-2013, 01:21 AM
#7732
Haha, sorry Rich, I'm often pulled multiple directions to route any given day, so I gotta work with what I got.
I did manage to mount the tank using ratchet straps for now, but I had to remove the remaining spare tire hardware and wow, it was a bit of a pain getting this up there and finally figuring out where it will work.
First I removed the remaining tire hardware....
Then I got it up there with the straps and had to drill out some extra holes how to properly anchor the two straps hooks into the cross support....
Both straps on the farthest away hooks in these pictures moved over after I secured them to different locations towards the middle over the axle, so it doesn't look exactly like this now, the straps are actually almost right up against the inside of each of the mounting feet...
I left the mountain feet on the tank because they kept the tank a certain distance from the spare tire crossmember and that was necessary in order for the pressure switch to fit right up into the crossmember so that I can run the wire along the opposite side of the crossmember in through the hole and plug it right in. It will allow me to secure those wires well to that cross member and keep them covered. A little bit cleaner in other words.
Here's a video, from today. It's a little long and pretty bad because I have to put the camera phone down , and I'm still kind of feeling my way through this but I have some good ideas. One thing I didn't mention there is I'm going to probably have to get some right angle half inch fittings for the tank. At least if I plan to use the exhaust side . The tank is wide and that also brings me to mentioning, that I'm really glad I didn't go for the other kits with the day 28 inch skinny tank. It never would have fit......
I did manage to mount the tank using ratchet straps for now, but I had to remove the remaining spare tire hardware and wow, it was a bit of a pain getting this up there and finally figuring out where it will work.
First I removed the remaining tire hardware....
Then I got it up there with the straps and had to drill out some extra holes how to properly anchor the two straps hooks into the cross support....
Both straps on the farthest away hooks in these pictures moved over after I secured them to different locations towards the middle over the axle, so it doesn't look exactly like this now, the straps are actually almost right up against the inside of each of the mounting feet...
I left the mountain feet on the tank because they kept the tank a certain distance from the spare tire crossmember and that was necessary in order for the pressure switch to fit right up into the crossmember so that I can run the wire along the opposite side of the crossmember in through the hole and plug it right in. It will allow me to secure those wires well to that cross member and keep them covered. A little bit cleaner in other words.
Here's a video, from today. It's a little long and pretty bad because I have to put the camera phone down , and I'm still kind of feeling my way through this but I have some good ideas. One thing I didn't mention there is I'm going to probably have to get some right angle half inch fittings for the tank. At least if I plan to use the exhaust side . The tank is wide and that also brings me to mentioning, that I'm really glad I didn't go for the other kits with the day 28 inch skinny tank. It never would have fit......
09-18-2013, 02:08 AM
#7733
Couple alternator discussions..... relating 2 wire & fuse upgrades & so forth......
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/high-output-alternators-2nd-gen-4runners-134875/
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/3453863-post80.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...e-1st-gen.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/big-3-wire-upgrade-95850/
Ah hahhhhhhh!...... I see how it is, Ray! (Wags finger) Hehehe. ......[RAD4runner posting on another site]...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...ml#post1453209
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/high-output-alternators-2nd-gen-4runners-134875/
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/3453863-post80.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...e-1st-gen.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/big-3-wire-upgrade-95850/
Ah hahhhhhhh!...... I see how it is, Ray! (Wags finger) Hehehe. ......[RAD4runner posting on another site]...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...ml#post1453209
09-18-2013, 03:13 AM
#7734
Contributing Member
Good morning Chef! Loving all the brainstorming over here. Saw all those trip pics on Redeth's thread, nice! Wish I had something profound to add but all I've got is Happy Wednesday!
09-18-2013, 04:25 AM
#7735
Registered User
Hey mark sorry I haven't been around just covered up with life. Glad to see you pulled the trigger on a OBA set up, should work great for ya once its all together.
09-18-2013, 07:33 PM
#7736
How's it going habanero? How's my beautiful YotaTech sister doing this evening? I appreciate it... And I know, it's one of those things that I might not ever find out before I do a full motor swap. ...... But hey, at least it still runs right? Hahaha
Hey Jason, what's up buddy? Always great to hear from you... I'm hoping one of these times we can meet up and do a day trip up in the mountains right there. Keep me informed...
...... But hey, at least it still runs right? HahahaHey Jason, what's up buddy? Always great to hear from you... I'm hoping one of these times we can meet up and do a day trip up in the mountains right there. Keep me informed...
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 09-18-2013 at 07:35 PM.
09-18-2013, 08:14 PM
#7737
Okay guys, I have to say, I know I'm not anything special in regards to, "things tend to happen when they can Murphy's Law" type scenarios... But, good grief! Lol...
Still, I actually got some stuff done today but 80 percent of my day was running around to 4 different stores to finally find the fittings I needed to complete, at least on one end of it regarding the tank, all of the fittings for my OBA, including the plugs... Unbelievably ridiculous how unknowledgeable some of the people that work in Lowes or Home Depot are ( yes, even more ignorant than I on the subject, and that is saying quite a bit, considering it's the department they run, lol .... Tool City was a little better but they just happened to be out of the one thing I needed... So anyway,... I managed to get some 1/2" MIT and 1/2" to 1/4" MIT and FIT fittings along with a FL/MIT elbow both at 1/2" for the stainless steel braided hose from the compressor to the tank line......... 1/4" NPT Drain-Twist-Valve( I would have gotten the Pull type, they were only rated to 115 psi before they open automatically... That does me no good with the 200 psi tank... The twist type are good up to 300 psi at least... So I should be good to go on that.. I also put in 1/2 inch MIT plugs and 1/4 inch MIT plugs...... And, a half inch Street elbow with male and female... Anyway here's how this looks so far as I spent the entire day walking around like a moron and eventually figuring out more than anybody in the damn store could tell me! Thank you Toyo! I know you didn't tell me exactly what to get, but just being able to vent helped! Haha. ....
Here's the drain valve I got......
Here is the PCV/RUBBER HYBRID 300psi 3/8" 25' air hose I got( I already have a rubber hose but its only rated at 200 psi, plus, this PCV / rubber hybrid is really flexible and soft and weighs about 1/3 of a rubber hose... The temps ratings were pretty good as well 165 degrees and -20 degrees)...
Got a really good deal on 16 foot 6 gauge battery cable kit that I will use as power wires for my compressor and possibly for the off road lights main line to the left and right side...
I also got this latching air chuck( I have a standard type as well for backup).......
Here it is so far, & I will take pictures of the brackets and once I completely install the compressor I will put up information on how to do it, in case anyone is interested... Here you can see the 3/8 NPT and Jack on the half inch MIT Street elbow, all brass,.... Along with several other fittings that you can see and the plugs on the other side. But I will get pictures, as I said, and I will do a video of the full on install procedure and products that I used on my build......
Still, I actually got some stuff done today but 80 percent of my day was running around to 4 different stores to finally find the fittings I needed to complete, at least on one end of it regarding the tank, all of the fittings for my OBA, including the plugs... Unbelievably ridiculous how unknowledgeable some of the people that work in Lowes or Home Depot are ( yes, even more ignorant than I on the subject, and that is saying quite a bit, considering it's the department they run, lol .... Tool City was a little better but they just happened to be out of the one thing I needed... So anyway,... I managed to get some 1/2" MIT and 1/2" to 1/4" MIT and FIT fittings along with a FL/MIT elbow both at 1/2" for the stainless steel braided hose from the compressor to the tank line......... 1/4" NPT Drain-Twist-Valve( I would have gotten the Pull type, they were only rated to 115 psi before they open automatically... That does me no good with the 200 psi tank... The twist type are good up to 300 psi at least... So I should be good to go on that.. I also put in 1/2 inch MIT plugs and 1/4 inch MIT plugs...... And, a half inch Street elbow with male and female... Anyway here's how this looks so far as I spent the entire day walking around like a moron and eventually figuring out more than anybody in the damn store could tell me! Thank you Toyo! I know you didn't tell me exactly what to get, but just being able to vent helped! Haha. ....
Here's the drain valve I got......
Here is the PCV/RUBBER HYBRID 300psi 3/8" 25' air hose I got( I already have a rubber hose but its only rated at 200 psi, plus, this PCV / rubber hybrid is really flexible and soft and weighs about 1/3 of a rubber hose... The temps ratings were pretty good as well 165 degrees and -20 degrees)...
Got a really good deal on 16 foot 6 gauge battery cable kit that I will use as power wires for my compressor and possibly for the off road lights main line to the left and right side...
I also got this latching air chuck( I have a standard type as well for backup).......
Here it is so far, & I will take pictures of the brackets and once I completely install the compressor I will put up information on how to do it, in case anyone is interested... Here you can see the 3/8 NPT and Jack on the half inch MIT Street elbow, all brass,.... Along with several other fittings that you can see and the plugs on the other side. But I will get pictures, as I said, and I will do a video of the full on install procedure and products that I used on my build......
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 09-18-2013 at 11:08 PM.
