ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
11-08-2010, 01:06 PM
#741
I hear ya, X! Thanks man....
Yeah, I've run into that quite a bit... and I fully understand. I promise I'm not trying to be anal... I just wanna get close, ya know? I'll be fine with just 1.5" for now, and I can always add .25" or something with my T-bars without any drama. Just curious what you think about my numbered lay out I did, above. You saying it all sounds good but 'maybe wait' on the diff drop until I figure out if I need it? That makes pretty good sense, if that's whatcha mean, lol.
Yeah, I've run into that quite a bit... and I fully understand. I promise I'm not trying to be anal... I just wanna get close, ya know? I'll be fine with just 1.5" for now, and I can always add .25" or something with my T-bars without any drama. Just curious what you think about my numbered lay out I did, above. You saying it all sounds good but 'maybe wait' on the diff drop until I figure out if I need it? That makes pretty good sense, if that's whatcha mean, lol.
11-08-2010, 01:31 PM
#743
Registered User
I'm gonna grab some piccs of my front suspension / bump stops tonight so we can discuss it tomorrow, lol. And Mark I know there are lots of mixed reveiws on the diff drops, but for a daily driver, I would go ahead and do it, surely will help your CV angles some. I have been resisting the diff drop, but I think my angles are pretty extreme, also thinking about cutting my BJ spacers down a 1/2" or so but we will see. Pics tomorrow guys, I'll mainly post them in my thread to get some oppinions but I'll post one or 2 here also, I need some guidance myself on what I have already done & what I want to do with it now,lol. Looking forward to some of your input tomorrow XXX.
Last edited by yotarob2005; 11-08-2010 at 01:35 PM.
11-08-2010, 02:12 PM
#744
Sounds good, Rob, and X, I really appreciate your input. I know you're read up on this extensively. I'm VERY much a total newb to all this stuff... thanks for your patience, man! And I agree with Rob, looking forward to your input tomorrow as well. Or today, that's fine too! lol.
Also, I read most of this thread I saw, "Thread for Noobs on 'list of importance", or something close to that. LOTS of interesting discussion on there, and it seemed to wind up focusing on how Lockers are the most important thing to do, first. I'll get to that, hopefully some time before summer. For now, I just wanna level it out and get on some winter trips to the hot springs, etc. I've only literally lifted the rear about 1.5" from stock with the Zuks(stock, meaning, off the showroom floor, lol). So I should be ok by redoing most of my front ends important things and just getting her up around 1.5".
Jim(Downey Owner) was explaining to me how the Mega Travel BJ's can go that extra lil up travel, using them with Spacers, because the stock ones max out, no matter what, at 5-6" of travel, because where the ball arm hits on the stock ones, it then takes the a-arm up into the stops, sooner. They worked with Toyota, using their blueprints, to develop the level they would machine on the HD BJ's to get them, with use of Spacers, to give a lil more up travel. I've left him a message and hopefully he'll call me back and clear it up so I can better explain it. Or better yet, maybe he'll jump in when he's not so busy(He is busy, he was runnin like a chicken with it's head cut off, managing this, restoring his 54 Ford, retirement hobbies, selling off his remaining stock, etc., lol.) Jim seemed to scoff at the idea of diff drop very quickly... not sure why, maybe he can explain. I'm more than willing to do them as 4Crawlers prices are GREAT!
Off topic a lil, on something I was discussing before; I think, at this point, if I had the money to do a SAS, I wouldn't do it. I'd rather continue to restore and modify my rig with goodies I've been wanting to do. Instead of spending 2G's or so on a SAS(my buddy who would help me get the deal on the long travel IFS if I wanted it, said we could do the SAS for around the same price, cuz he'd help me do all the cutting, etc.)..instead of that, I'd just spend a couple G's on a 85 SFA 4Runner. Sure, that might end up being some brand new projects of 'to do' lists... but it just seems more logical to me to start with a stock SFA rig and go from there.
Far as this rig, I'm glad to be getting to where I can just DRIVE it ANYWHERE(within reason, of course). It's already running really well, leak free(pretty much) and looking good, in and out. No rattling down the road, everything chassis wise is tight.... It's a great rig, and I'm grateful, trust me. All I mean is 'driving it into some wilderness, nothing crazy, without having to worry TOO much'.... I FULLY understand that things 'CAN AND WILL' break from time to time. Even then, I've been very blessed, as I've STOMPED on some of these trucks, taken them where even my buddies can't seem to get with their full size trucks at times, ..and NOTHING major has ever broken. I'd like to continue to do the above stuff, minus the 'stomping as much', lol.... and I can feel this thing is starting to 'clunk' and 'creek' up there, more than would SEEM safe to continue to do those adventures.
I also travel alone, quite often.... Yes, I meet up with people at times, and usually venture out into some stuff that i wouldn't, alone... but I wouldn't feel safe with doing that with my rig as it sits, now, as far as the IFS side of the truck goes. The rear? RET-TO-GO, minus some shocks I'll be getting.
Thanks, Rob, I look forward to seeing them pics and hearing all your guys thoughts, more and more.
Mark
Also, I read most of this thread I saw, "Thread for Noobs on 'list of importance", or something close to that. LOTS of interesting discussion on there, and it seemed to wind up focusing on how Lockers are the most important thing to do, first. I'll get to that, hopefully some time before summer. For now, I just wanna level it out and get on some winter trips to the hot springs, etc. I've only literally lifted the rear about 1.5" from stock with the Zuks(stock, meaning, off the showroom floor, lol). So I should be ok by redoing most of my front ends important things and just getting her up around 1.5".
Jim(Downey Owner) was explaining to me how the Mega Travel BJ's can go that extra lil up travel, using them with Spacers, because the stock ones max out, no matter what, at 5-6" of travel, because where the ball arm hits on the stock ones, it then takes the a-arm up into the stops, sooner. They worked with Toyota, using their blueprints, to develop the level they would machine on the HD BJ's to get them, with use of Spacers, to give a lil more up travel. I've left him a message and hopefully he'll call me back and clear it up so I can better explain it. Or better yet, maybe he'll jump in when he's not so busy(He is busy, he was runnin like a chicken with it's head cut off, managing this, restoring his 54 Ford, retirement hobbies, selling off his remaining stock, etc., lol.) Jim seemed to scoff at the idea of diff drop very quickly... not sure why, maybe he can explain. I'm more than willing to do them as 4Crawlers prices are GREAT!
Off topic a lil, on something I was discussing before; I think, at this point, if I had the money to do a SAS, I wouldn't do it. I'd rather continue to restore and modify my rig with goodies I've been wanting to do. Instead of spending 2G's or so on a SAS(my buddy who would help me get the deal on the long travel IFS if I wanted it, said we could do the SAS for around the same price, cuz he'd help me do all the cutting, etc.)..instead of that, I'd just spend a couple G's on a 85 SFA 4Runner. Sure, that might end up being some brand new projects of 'to do' lists... but it just seems more logical to me to start with a stock SFA rig and go from there.
Far as this rig, I'm glad to be getting to where I can just DRIVE it ANYWHERE(within reason, of course). It's already running really well, leak free(pretty much) and looking good, in and out. No rattling down the road, everything chassis wise is tight.... It's a great rig, and I'm grateful, trust me. All I mean is 'driving it into some wilderness, nothing crazy, without having to worry TOO much'.... I FULLY understand that things 'CAN AND WILL' break from time to time. Even then, I've been very blessed, as I've STOMPED on some of these trucks, taken them where even my buddies can't seem to get with their full size trucks at times, ..and NOTHING major has ever broken. I'd like to continue to do the above stuff, minus the 'stomping as much', lol.... and I can feel this thing is starting to 'clunk' and 'creek' up there, more than would SEEM safe to continue to do those adventures.
I also travel alone, quite often.... Yes, I meet up with people at times, and usually venture out into some stuff that i wouldn't, alone... but I wouldn't feel safe with doing that with my rig as it sits, now, as far as the IFS side of the truck goes. The rear? RET-TO-GO, minus some shocks I'll be getting.
Thanks, Rob, I look forward to seeing them pics and hearing all your guys thoughts, more and more.
Mark
11-08-2010, 06:18 PM
#745
Registered User
Well no pics yet, seems as though the flash on my camera is not working 
. Anyway, as I suspected, XXX is correct about the bump stops, There are 2 for the lower control arm that limit up travel, and 1 on the Upper control arm that limits down travel. I measured the distance from the control arms to bump stops and I have 1-1/2" worth of stuff & 1" worth of droop, I "trimmed" the droop bump stop last week. I really need to try jacking it up to see how much actual travel it has.
. Anyway, as I suspected, XXX is correct about the bump stops, There are 2 for the lower control arm that limit up travel, and 1 on the Upper control arm that limits down travel. I measured the distance from the control arms to bump stops and I have 1-1/2" worth of stuff & 1" worth of droop, I "trimmed" the droop bump stop last week. I really need to try jacking it up to see how much actual travel it has.
11-08-2010, 08:06 PM
#746
Cool, Rob. Sorry bout the camera... dang electrical gremlins! lol.
Yeah, I understand the 2 lowers and one upper and what they do. I think what I'm curious about is what Jim said was getting him (results) out of the Mega Travel Joints, and how. I guess I wont know until I get them on, eh? lol. I suppose it would be safer to do low pro stops with shims till it's right on the lower arms, to allow the lil more uptravel, but maybe only shave off a 1/4" or so off the top stop, if anything at all. That, along with the drop kit should minimize the likelihood of binding and snapping the CV's. My 4wd has always worked flawlessly, even with the ADD and I've kept the bearings lubed(all new from the outer hub in, including bearings, right to the CV's), fresh fluid in the front end, tranny and rear end, and I've been told that since I now have the Manual hubs, my dangers from going a lil higher with spacers, etc., are less than with the ADD(reading the article Mouse gave me, plus others).
Just waiting to get a hold of my buddy with the Fox 2.0 Shocks, whom I think told me by the end of November I could have em for 100$ for the pair.
Oh screw it all! hahahaha. RiFreakyDeakyDiculous, if you ask me! lol. Someone on here has Moog Bj's he would trade for an ECU, I think he said. I'm just concerned as I've read quite a few unpleasant things about Moog Underparts, lol... I know, it's probably more on the Idler Arms, maybe not the BJ's... I just hear so many people say "OEM, ONLY", so I'd probably be better off with factory.
Yeah, I understand the 2 lowers and one upper and what they do. I think what I'm curious about is what Jim said was getting him (results) out of the Mega Travel Joints, and how. I guess I wont know until I get them on, eh? lol. I suppose it would be safer to do low pro stops with shims till it's right on the lower arms, to allow the lil more uptravel, but maybe only shave off a 1/4" or so off the top stop, if anything at all. That, along with the drop kit should minimize the likelihood of binding and snapping the CV's. My 4wd has always worked flawlessly, even with the ADD and I've kept the bearings lubed(all new from the outer hub in, including bearings, right to the CV's), fresh fluid in the front end, tranny and rear end, and I've been told that since I now have the Manual hubs, my dangers from going a lil higher with spacers, etc., are less than with the ADD(reading the article Mouse gave me, plus others).
Just waiting to get a hold of my buddy with the Fox 2.0 Shocks, whom I think told me by the end of November I could have em for 100$ for the pair.
Oh screw it all! hahahaha. RiFreakyDeakyDiculous, if you ask me! lol. Someone on here has Moog Bj's he would trade for an ECU, I think he said. I'm just concerned as I've read quite a few unpleasant things about Moog Underparts, lol... I know, it's probably more on the Idler Arms, maybe not the BJ's... I just hear so many people say "OEM, ONLY", so I'd probably be better off with factory.
11-09-2010, 04:34 PM
#748
Yep, Rob, ...just read and commented. I'm leaning toward this as my plan, for now.......
1.5" 4Crawler Spacers
Install Downey Mega Travel Upper BJoints(have already)
New OEM Lower BJ's
Low Pro Lower Bump Stops w/shims(OR, shave down the factory ones and add shims...seems this would be a better move.???) + shave upper just a tad(?)
Diff Drop Deluxe Kit from 4Crawler
Fox 2.0 Adjustable/Rebuildable shocks
Idler Arm Brace
T-Bar adjustment to level
Alignment
DRIVE IT! lol.
PS> Maybe I should have you make me some of those Hiems, Rob? hehehe.
1.5" 4Crawler Spacers
Install Downey Mega Travel Upper BJoints(have already)
New OEM Lower BJ's
Low Pro Lower Bump Stops w/shims(OR, shave down the factory ones and add shims...seems this would be a better move.???) + shave upper just a tad(?)
Diff Drop Deluxe Kit from 4Crawler
Fox 2.0 Adjustable/Rebuildable shocks
Idler Arm Brace
T-Bar adjustment to level
Alignment
DRIVE IT! lol.
PS> Maybe I should have you make me some of those Hiems, Rob? hehehe.
11-10-2010, 06:18 AM
#749
Registered User
Chef,
I like your approach to the front end suspension set up. Simple, yet well thought out utilizing very good parts. I'm in the early stages of my 87 Runner build. So it's nice to watch you.
Do you think your supplier of the Downey balljoints has any more in his inventory? If so, I owuld be intersted.
Keep up the good work.
Mark
I like your approach to the front end suspension set up. Simple, yet well thought out utilizing very good parts. I'm in the early stages of my 87 Runner build. So it's nice to watch you.
Do you think your supplier of the Downey balljoints has any more in his inventory? If so, I owuld be intersted.
Keep up the good work.
Mark
11-10-2010, 08:30 AM
#750
Thanks, Mel!
Actually, I met with Jim, the Downey Owner, personally, when I picked up this stuff... and he told me, then and there(I was asking for others)... "Nope, you got the last pair".... BUT, I was told by my buddy who races, he had his machinist do his for him. All they do is basically take OEM Ball Joints, then shave down the retainer and then strengthen them somehow. I'm not a machinist, lol.... but it sounded like there are a few guys who do this out there. I'm still waiting to hear from him on the best set up for getting the best 'flex' out of these with the least amount of 'risk'. He sent me an email, but it's empty... Like something was attached but my STUPID YAHOO MAIL BLOCKED IT! Great, I get to bother him again! hahaha.
Actually, I met with Jim, the Downey Owner, personally, when I picked up this stuff... and he told me, then and there(I was asking for others)... "Nope, you got the last pair".... BUT, I was told by my buddy who races, he had his machinist do his for him. All they do is basically take OEM Ball Joints, then shave down the retainer and then strengthen them somehow. I'm not a machinist, lol.... but it sounded like there are a few guys who do this out there. I'm still waiting to hear from him on the best set up for getting the best 'flex' out of these with the least amount of 'risk'. He sent me an email, but it's empty... Like something was attached but my STUPID YAHOO MAIL BLOCKED IT! Great, I get to bother him again! hahaha.
11-10-2010, 09:18 AM
#753
THANKS MAN! I really like it... Can't wait to get my covers and harness/relays delivered, too! lol. Wanna get the lights on. OH< and I got some locks for them, too. Thanks 4wheelparts! 
Just gotta figure out how to mount the lic. plate. Grrr. Don't wanna mount it on the bar, ya know?
Just gotta figure out how to mount the lic. plate. Grrr. Don't wanna mount it on the bar, ya know?
11-12-2010, 11:15 PM
#754
Worked on figuring out the Mysterious Washer Motor Gremlin tonight(haven't had working fluid action since I owned it... 8.5 YEARS! hahahaha.. IT'S TIME!) Below is a video of what I figured out...... Only thing is, I think I explained the wiring thing backwards. The silver button with the wire on it is the power, I believe....and that would make the brass ring the ground. I think, somewhere along the line, the PO removed that trying to fix it, and just figured "ahhhhhh, forget it", but in the process, left out this spring and cylinder apparatus that is supposed to keep out the button on the end of the washer arm, and when you pressed it in, it would push down the spring and cylinder until the cylinder touched the brass ring and silver contact on the end at the same time......causing the fluid circuit to be complete. I'ma head to pick-u-part, tomorrow, and try to find one! lol. I know, pretty lame write up, but it's EXCITING TO ME, believe it or not, fixing something that is, well, if you think about it, PRETTY DANG USEFUL! lol.
Video of Washer fluid exam, lol.....
lol. I know, pretty lame write up, but it's EXCITING TO ME, believe it or not, fixing something that is, well, if you think about it, PRETTY DANG USEFUL! lol. Video of Washer fluid exam, lol.....
11-12-2010, 11:25 PM
#755
Video above of washer fluid missing spring mystery! OOOOOoooooh, lol.
I also got under the truck and checked out the horn...it's also not working, and I was thinking it might be my steering wheel contact/push pad for the horn... but I ran 12V to the air horn motor(which is connected to the factory OEM wiring for the original horn)...and NADA! Wondered if you guys could tell me what would be the cheapest way to get a horn again, IF it is, indeed, the air horn motor and not the button on the wheel. Even if a fuse was involved, I would think that the 12V direct to it should get it TOOTIN away, ....NO?
Thanks guys, on either topic above... I'd like to fix these lil things and then next will be the Suspension stuffs and 8" Dick Cepek Light Install(WOOT, can't wait for that...it looks pretty good with the lights on there.. just waiting on the covers and relay wasn't avail...so Have to go pick one up at Pep Boys I guess) Any ideas as well as to the best relay set up to get for.....>>>> 2- 8" Dick Cepek Halogen Off Road Lights? AND, can I mount them like this? Or is that too high and will get me pulled over? Here's how they will sit on the Downey Guard>>>
I also got under the truck and checked out the horn...it's also not working, and I was thinking it might be my steering wheel contact/push pad for the horn... but I ran 12V to the air horn motor(which is connected to the factory OEM wiring for the original horn)...and NADA! Wondered if you guys could tell me what would be the cheapest way to get a horn again, IF it is, indeed, the air horn motor and not the button on the wheel. Even if a fuse was involved, I would think that the 12V direct to it should get it TOOTIN away, ....NO?
Thanks guys, on either topic above... I'd like to fix these lil things and then next will be the Suspension stuffs and 8" Dick Cepek Light Install(WOOT, can't wait for that...it looks pretty good with the lights on there.. just waiting on the covers and relay wasn't avail...so Have to go pick one up at Pep Boys I guess) Any ideas as well as to the best relay set up to get for.....>>>> 2- 8" Dick Cepek Halogen Off Road Lights? AND, can I mount them like this? Or is that too high and will get me pulled over? Here's how they will sit on the Downey Guard>>>
11-13-2010, 07:04 AM
#758
Registered User
I posted this link in my build also but want to be sure you saw it.
Very interesting opinions on diff drops! I haven't decided how I feel about it yet but this is worth a quick read. Check it out Mark.
http://tacomaoffroad.com/threads/395-Diff-mount
Very interesting opinions on diff drops! I haven't decided how I feel about it yet but this is worth a quick read. Check it out Mark.
http://tacomaoffroad.com/threads/395-Diff-mount
11-13-2010, 08:07 AM
#759
Thanks Jerry! Have a Washer Button Depresser ThingymadoerHicky with spring/cylinder actuator laying around? lol.....
Hey Ian! > I will get some. It looks like the the Air Horn Motor is wired up just above the bumper, behind the grill/wall, below the lights, and the two air horns are bolted with a bracket to the front of the firewall next to the radiator, just right from facing front of the battery.( looks like a Radio Harness bracket, support thing, you know, with the holes in it... I think the motor is the main concern though, right? It's easy access at the bottom under battery just behind bumper. The rest?...not so easy to get to.
ROB, YOU DA MAN! I'ma be watching that, asap! Might be heading to look at an 86 CHERRY 4Runner/ White w/outlaw 2's/ Auto / 4x4 / brand new KM2's(32x11.50's)/ CLEAN interior....2200$ obo... I'll offer 1500$ to start and go from there... He asked me to wait till 3pm as 2 others are coming to look at 12 and 2pm today. So, I have the day off... heading to pick u part to find a washer button actuator thingmajigger! lol.... maybe some other goodies too, eh?
lol..... Hey Ian! > I will get some. It looks like the the Air Horn Motor is wired up just above the bumper, behind the grill/wall, below the lights, and the two air horns are bolted with a bracket to the front of the firewall next to the radiator, just right from facing front of the battery.( looks like a Radio Harness bracket, support thing, you know, with the holes in it... I think the motor is the main concern though, right? It's easy access at the bottom under battery just behind bumper. The rest?...not so easy to get to.
ROB, YOU DA MAN! I'ma be watching that, asap! Might be heading to look at an 86 CHERRY 4Runner/ White w/outlaw 2's/ Auto / 4x4 / brand new KM2's(32x11.50's)/ CLEAN interior....2200$ obo... I'll offer 1500$ to start and go from there... He asked me to wait till 3pm as 2 others are coming to look at 12 and 2pm today. So, I have the day off... heading to pick u part to find a washer button actuator thingmajigger! lol.... maybe some other goodies too, eh?
11-13-2010, 08:19 AM
#760
Registered User
Might be heading to look at an 86 CHERRY 4Runner/ White w/outlaw 2's/ Auto / 4x4 / brand new KM2's(32x11.50's)/ CLEAN interior....2200$ obo... I'll offer 1500$ to start and go from there... He asked me to wait till 3pm as 2 others are coming to look at 12 and 2pm today.
