ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well,.....

Today, I had the brilliant idea, with a few hours to spare, that I should run down to pick your part and at least look for my stupid sensors in the couple Celica and Cressida hits I had in their inventory... Did I mention that was 97 degrees Fahrenheit? I swear it felt like 80 percent humidity or so... In fact, many of the regulars that I see there all the time or I should say each time I go we're going out the gate as I came in.... They were dripping in sweat and still I thought I should ask why they were leaving... They simply said, were the last ones pretty much left to leave... It is too freaking hot! Nonetheless I was already there and I figured I should take a look.

After pulling about 10 just so I could clean them off to read the part numbers, from different Corollas and Tercel's and so forth... I finally left the first yard without having found it. At the second yard I found three Cressida's and two Celicas that run that same sensor... Well, only one had enough of the engine left for me to try and get it... I put my socket in there took one turn of the wrench and Pop! ........ The thing snapped right in half with a couple threads still inside and the whole bottom half of the sensor still stuck in the intake....





Sad......., but at least I tried! Lol.....

I did get some perfect condition Lighted Sun visors from a 93 ES 300, for my daughter. Both Here's are toast, one completely missing. Can't have that! I still need a passenger side front door panel, electric, but is hard to find her pattern/fabric, two tone black& gray. I'd anyone sees em? (Grego?) .... I'd be grateful.

Was trying to find some parts for JonnyBoy as well .... I did find a Subaru Legacy, but they weren't identical.... It was a no go.

As you can see I got a couple more AC VSV's off the rear firewall from a couple of Corollas... I also grabbed a few cold start injector times which is out of various trucks, none of them the right number but some of them close and I'm going to try and look up to see if any of them are acceptable match as far as degrees of opening and closing/ resistance. I was going to post them up and see if anybody can help me figure out what temperature they open up?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'm having a real problem with the dealership finding my VIN number... And yet, the second I enter it into Toyota parts zone, they immediately had all the info on my vehicle... Automatically......RIGHT?....

[Your Toyota]:
4-RUNNER TRUCK 1987 USA

RN61LV-MSEA 198704 22REC SR5 V MTM 5F W ST EFI CBU FL11 3D7

"Sorry, we cannot determine whether this part fits your vehicle.Please verify if the VIN you entered is correct."

Wait,....WTH? I guess just buy the first 5 digits , they can get all of that... I guess with the 5F or W or whatever the rest is hiding in there....

It may be because I am entering a part number that is the upgrade . I will try it again where my original part number and see if it says its correct.

Btw, it also says this ......

{ [Toyota Part]: Part NO.:89428-26020

SWITCH, TEMPERATURE

Notes:The part you are looking for is NOT Available.}

They never called me today from DCH Toyota... Hopefully they will in the next couple of days, I'm starting to get the feeling that they were deleted some of the older vehicles. I can almost swear that a few years ago when I took my truck in, the mediately found it. Now all the sudden my truck doesn't exist? Really getting sick of this crap! Lol

dakotawho

iTrader: (1)

I know they said the same thing about not being able to say if it would work with mine too. Of course I was upgrading to the dual stage t-stat and it pretty much said what your getting, so maybe it's because were buying upgraded parts? Idk just thought I would throw it out there so your not completely alone haha.

Discombobulated

I feel your pain on the pick and pull, I went a couple weeks ago and it was fricken horrible, the cars were like big pieces of heated metal just emanating heat on my face and of course shade is non existent, and that's before I started looking in the vehicles that were 150 degrees inside. Never again unless its a nice shady day, anyway hope the quest for this part works out

Trucks looking sweet by the way, it's pretty fricken intense

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

1stToyotaParts.com .....

As I found in Mudhippy comment on another YT thread, while surfing on the Google,... "That site USUALLY has the *discontinued part* stuffs that many of us Unfortunately can't find in many instances."

I wound up ordering my temperature switch #2 --- 89428-20620 and cold start injector time switch 89462-20050. I also ordered the temperature sending unit for the coolant temp gauge ....... I found a coupon for another site, went to their message center and told them I will have to go somewhere else if they won't honor this... Or match it. They did, so I ended up with all three of these sensors for $160. Not bad, and while I'm not certain it will solve anything... I would rather have the recommended parts in there for now until I someday swap the motor. Who knows, maybe when I get this all figured out my mileage will improve as well.

I'm a little confused, as when I look up 89428-28030( the part number on the receipt from DCH Toyota dealership) , I get this message from 1stToyotaParts.com .....

SWITCH TEMPERATURE˟˟Make:˟Toyota˟ |˟Part#:˟8942828030
List Price: $14.44 - Your Price:˟$10.42

This is the part number on my receipt that I was questioning... What I don't understand is why when I look up that number, on a particular thread mentioning which parts were recalled or swapped out it is basically calling that the temperature switch 2 that I am looking for in the top of my thermostat... Which is more like $100 at the dealership and around $60 from the online vendors..... And yet that website is listing it for $10? Even the temperature sending unit is more than that. Now I'm not even sure what the heck is going on at all. Lol... On this thread you can clearly see that was in the Toyota Service Bulletin recalls that 28030 part & replaces it with 26020....

http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplema...c=1748.10;wap2

Grrrrrr! Lol

I will replace my coolant hoses and all of that stuff at the same time as I have to remove these sensors from areas where coolant flows... Basically have to drain the radiator halfway.

I'm also going to burp my system as best as I can today on an extremely steep hill... It's gotta be at least 45 degrees.

*****************************

As I figured, 24 hours after I was promised a call from DCH Toyota, even after I've spent... (Well let's just say it's obscene)... at their parts department.... I basically got the runaround and was told that this guys busy and that guy we can't get them on the phone and we still can't find your VIN number... I have to think that they have deleted it from their system. I'm not talking about that particular dealer, I'm talking about all of them.

However, I'm only guessing, but my guess is that the online vendors, seeing that they deal with just that, online applications, have plenty of storage and have not deleted these things as of yet. Yes, I am the king of unheard of gremlins and Murphy's Law happenstance... But come on! >>>>>>> I'm the only truck that has disappeared within the Toyota system? I'm not talking about giving them your VIN number to get a part... All they usually need is the first six numbers and then a couple of the last ones.... But, I'm talking about having them looking up recalls and trying to find me key codes... That sort of thing.

I don't know, maybe I am the only one? I wonder if somebody that works at Toyota or just anybody on here would call and ask a question that requires the service and parts department to actually look up your VIN number and then see if they can find it. Hell, just call the service department and ask if there are any recalls for your truck, VIN number so & so?

RBX

try:
http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/par...?siteid=214329

call them and ask for Jorge (George) tell him Mr. Burns sent you....I'm not kidding.

This guy is amazing at his customer service and people skills, I hope you have the same experience I've had, even when they didn't ship parts or were damaged, this guy made it right. I will always call them first before I go anywhere for OEM parts.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I hear ya. But, as I said in the last post, maybe if someone else can call and ask if there were any recalls for the truck... Maybe we might get with a common theme here on 88 and older trucks? All I know is that I was told by a Toyota associate, a friend that I know, that they were deleting everything under 95.5.... I'm not sure what he meant by everything, but I just find that hard to believe considering there are hundreds of thousands of these still on the road.

Yeah, it was brutal... Never for something like this again. Besides, any center I get like that will be 20 years old or more, and after pulling the right part number sensor out and having it snap off like that and be totally corroded inside... It has me rethinking it all. As much as I want to do a motor swap, after all the work I just did, I should probably follow my own advice and work it till I break it! Lol. It all depends really on whether I can find a dealer not... But the bottom line is that if I do nothing, I will probably get another hundred thousand miles minimum of this motor before anything goes wrong. It uses absolutely zero oil, 0 coolant, and runs like a bat out of hell compared to most of the 22re Motors that I've been driven around by. Once I get everything squared away, I'm A just sell it its such a strong motor... That would help fund the swap and then I wouldn't feel so bad. Plus, as Richard can testify to you, this thing is quick and somebody would be getting a great motor as long as I can figure out the gremlins.



THANK YOU! Seriously, nuggets that I get from people like you, such as this one, are priceless! I will do that... I also added one more post , probably while you were typing. I ended up getting the parts from 1stToyotaParts.com .... I will definitely do that because I need to speak with someone about a couple things that no one seems to be able to answer. I don't need to bring them up here but let's just say these things are getting harder and harder to find stuff for. Lol.

Bookmarked Camelback. Thanks again, RB!

RBX

they are the cheapest OEM parts in North America.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

THANKS, Toyo, for posting this in the first place.. As I said, even if it doesn't solve my issue, at least it's another step in the process of elimination, and it certainly seems to fit the bill. It would make sense that something I already replaced with new, and yet I was given the wrong part that was already outdated, would be a possible solution. Saying my prayers right now! Hahahahaha

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ok..... Ray? Lol.... I put the portions that I'm curious about in [blocks] ..... Up in your quote.

What wire am I rewiring to the factory fusible link box? Doesn't the larger wire of that top Stud post go to the 80A fuse? I'm just a little confused, it seems like you're saying to run that directly to the battery and then in the next comment that says from here to there showing pictures, using Philbert's picture of his factory fuse block.

My other question is in regards to the fact that you mentioned wiring that larger wire to my auxiliary fuse block... The largest fuse I can put in that thing is 30 amps. The total it will take is something like 160amps combined.

I'm also not sure why the 80A fuse in the factory fuse block does not need to be upgraded.

There are so many threads on GM upgrades, but I have a little hard time finding this one. I need to look back at your thread again, as well as Grego and a couple others. I did replace the main fusible link wire to the fuse block from the battery, but its not really that large. I think what I have in there is just 10AWG. My electronics store that I frequent does have multiple choices in fusible links. I'm not sure if I should bother with that or not.

Where in the picture of Phil's fuse block am i jacking into?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Great chat'n with ya, Ray! I'm looking forward to discussing it more on here!

Red Wagon

Hot down there still eh?

When can I camp until? If the missus doesn't find a job we are thinking of heading down there.

It could snow here at the start of October. I'm going to miss the frozen lakes and all the ice roads.



Good luck with your fix Cheffy.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I hear you with the VIN thing. I was at the dealer and even had the gasket I was needing and it was still a problem. It was frustrating to say the least. I tried to get them to order the two different parts and I would take the one I needed and they wouldnt. grrr...

I was thinking on your idle issue. You have new sensors and 3 motors that you mentioned and still the same problem. You mentioned the coil/igniter and I can see that too. That leaves hoses and wiring and maybe some oddball things that I dont see affecting the idle but who knows, but have you checked your harness crimps. I doubt you have to deal with humidity or corrosion but the harness does get full of oil, SAND, and other wonderful things in harness wrap that could of weakend your crimps connections.

Cabot in the 84/85 builds went thru that with his quite sometime ago. Not only were his crimps bad but he had a long section of wire that was bad. I am just trying to think of other things in the engine bay. Jason is sort of is suspecting that his ground wire on the intake and that had me thinking about yours as well. How is the wiring on the alternator?? Wouldnt really suspect it causing problems but it gets in a rough shape just due to where it is and when pulling motors it gets tweaked around alot as well.

When everything else seems to check out, start looking for the unimagineable. Seems to work for me. I see you are getting alot done. We are sweating a few pounds off a day over here as well. Whew!!! It is hot.

Do you seem to have more of a miss in the summer versus the winter time? Wondering if temperture could be an issue with electrical connections??

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, I just replaced the AC vs the with the working one, and just like the last one, it worked perfectly when the truck was cold and even just as it warmed up... But as I drove around 2 miles, came to a stop and was idling, I tested again and it is right back to where it was, not idling up as I turn on the AC after the truck warms up. I started to think that maybe the charge is too low and so it is not allowing the AC to kick on once its really hot... But as far as I know if it's charged its charged... As long as there's enough of a charge in the system that thing should always kick on. Obviously I have some issue in there that is not happy. When I replaced the thermo temp time switch or switch number 2, I did receive what I think is the wrong one according to the receipt that I have, ending in 28030... And I never touched the ECU pin that it says to pull from the connector and Tuck away. But then, I don't think that I should have to considering I was installing the same exact switch. And even if that was the case, wouldn't it be idling up all the time?

As far as all the questions, Terry...

I have never replace the coil or ignitor .

It could be some creams somewhere or another, relating to a lot of things I suppose. The fact is it has a mind of its own and it wants title low when it wants too, it idles up and normal and smooth when it wants to, and now with this new gremlin things, my only resort is to try swapping out sensors and check as much as I can with the wiring to see if things are acting up when they get really hot.

I am willing to look into the harness the certain point when I'm tearing the whole thing apart... I'm not sure man. I pretty much had enough of this crap. This is the kind of crap that makes me really miss the obd2 in the Honda and the nothing of the basic combustion 327 and 289 and 428....
I'm going to go by Charlie cools and C if the charge could have anything to do with it. I need to at least rule that out as far as the AC. The thing is that the AC seems to work all the time and even on long trips for a hundred miles for 120 degree desert, it continues to work and never seems to shut down or anything of the sort... So I have to believe that at least the compressor and the electrical that tells the AC to turn on is OK. Apparently that I left portion for the AC works through the ECU... So I wonder.

I am running errands right now so I will get to the rest of the questions and read it again. Sorry I'm just a little ticked off right now. Can't think straight.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Also, I tried Rogers fuel pressure regulator VSV delete... No go. I know I've done that before but I just wanted to do it one more time to rule it out.

Just now I ran into the store and came out within 5 minutes, the idle had been adjusted up to around 800 rpm today... It is holding there now... But as I said when I came out of the store, I started the truck did idle down just to around 750 and then creeped back up on its own within around 5 to 10 seconds.

As far as doing more of its drama when its cold or hot, it does seem to backed up certain times when its either really hot or really cold... When its cold, it seems to kinda be all over the place a little bit more, here's to have plenty of power and seem to want to stall or anything.. However, I don't think it is anymore free of this current gremlin just because it's cooler out or hotter.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I almost forgot to mention, 1st Toyota parts sent me a message through email telling me the same thing but all the rest did... That is no longer available, regarding the 26020 thermo temp time switch...... uhhhhhg!

I'm going to call a dude on here and see if he still has his. I hate to get things used to sensors but he said that it verified it was good through all the readings and that it is the proper one comes on at the right temperature.

I still don't understand why my AC VSV system isn't working when the truck is warm....

93Xtra-Cab

I'm definitely bookmarking the 1stToyotaParts and the Camelback Toyota Parts links! Toyota Parts Zone can be expensive sometimes.

Waterbottom

Ok its official, I have interior light envy haha, nice work. Between all the things I've been doing lately on my 86runner. I have all the rear panels out to paint, run wire for more light, and insulate. It's defiantly nice to look at the way you have done your illuminations to make it a little easier for me to tackle mine.
Glad I stumbled across this site for the all the great ideas and to know other people fight old Toyota gremlins too.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha, .... thanks, Waterbottom! I'm glad it can help.....that's so great to read.

Post lost of pics!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Waiting on the CSI Time switch , Temp Sending Unit and gonna try to pick up the Temp Switch #2 from a member on here, hopefully today.

Then, I will change out the heater hoses when I change out the sensors. I have to pull that ACV pin from the ECU as well, when changing the Temp Switch #2 out.

Talked to RAD about the Alternator wiring, and a bit on the gremlin. We got talking about the headlight amp draw.... He mentioned that the coil is not always fully approvable through the standars tests... I don't have the meter to test that coiling in there....... The coil is something that I've never replaced.

But I got thinking, and I'm wondering if the RPM's need to be around 750 or more in order for the alternator to properly charge the battery which then feeds the headlight. See, I've noticed, that when the trucks is idling it more like 800 rpm, the headlight draw is nearly nothing... If anything at all. When the RPM is standing around 750, it seems to drop around 25 rpm .... When my idol is around 700, that is when I notice the RPM's drop around 100 rpm. .......Curious if anybody thinks that make sense?

I'm going to go by Charlie Cools and have him pressure test my A/C system. I know that once it goes below a certain charge the AC will not kick on... But that's just the thing, the AC is kicking on and is running... It's just the VSV that is not kicking in. So all the wiring up to the compressor is being engaged and is working.... But, for some reason, my system is either blowing up those vacuum switching valves or I have a problem with the wiring........... Any thoughts?