Cyberhorn The Dragon

well your in there might as well check the torques an lash cant hurt!

i wish i had the gremlin spray dude id send it right to ya

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanx Will, I know you'd lend me a can of the gremlin additive of ya had it.

Yeah, I'll check those while in there, but it won't reveal much... I don't mind, at this point, just guessing! Lol.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm......mmmmmm

1. SOME wiring issue (EFI/IGN)

2. CSI Time Switch (Just doesn't seem likely to me, but WHO KNOWS? lol)

3. Ignitor/Coil or Dizzy

4. Vapor Lock of some sort?

5. FUEL FILTER? MEH.... LOL

6. Fuel cut is activating?

7. Some never heard of uncooperative relationship issue between the FPR, FPR VSV, DAMPER, FUEL PUMP, FUEL FILTER, GAS CAP AND the gun that is in my console? Uhgggggg! Lol

One thing I know for sure, it has to be freaking something!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Seen you and bbrideau mention about temp overshoot. I have fixed two of those just by cleaning the sensor inbetween cylinders #2 and #3. As far as the guage just falling to the bottom and being cold, that is where the cleaning the brass post and electrical tape have fixed the two I have worked on.

On the oil leak, I feel your pain on that. Mistys is leaking around the half moons and I used sealant on them. Not enough to mess with the oil level, but frustrating that I tried to seal it up and I have them leaking. I have heard some not use sealant. I have tried both ways and they do tend to leak either way that I go.

As far as the miss, might try removing a plug wire one at a time and see if you can narrow it down to a cylinder. Not sure if that will help alot or not as I know it is hitting on all 4 but might narrow it down. Make sure your injector connectors are good and solid. I have run into that before.

Meant to mention before that your idle screw is way high and you have noted it several times, this is the first time I noticed it in a picture. Have you tried another Throttle Body?

My brothers truck, even though it is 22r, he only uses new or quality remanufactured parts on it. For what he has into it, I could build two trucks but I have driven it twice recently and I can say what a difference it makes instead of doing like the rest of us out here of using 20 year old parts. I clean and test them and do the best I can with what I have, but then again these parts are just old with age and I am sure a new part would make a world of difference. It is along ways off, but I eventually want to replace some of my sensors with new. I sometimes wonder if a new TPS would be a good investment. It does have some moving mechanical parts in it and the electrical runs have carried alot of electricty over the years.

The Cold Start Timing Switch, I could see it possibly being some problem as it is so old, that what ever it uses to sense temperture is not accurate anymore either. That is just a wild guess though. It is on the Long Way Off New Parts List for me as well.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I will catch up and read your post in a moment, Terry... I just want, for the heck of it, to post up a thread that I decided to join regarding warm rough restarts. It shows the same bulletin that Toyo posted.....

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/low-rough-idle-after-warm-start-22re-217438/

Now back to reading... Hahaha

Oh, and here is a picture of the answer but we repaired the pin inside of an that is new...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Terry,

I also posted the list a few posts ago of all my new parts and sensors and those that are not. All of my critical sensors that have been replaced are factory TOYOTA. The only one that is not necessarily from the dealer is one that I got from spark plugs.com , but its a Denso o2 sensor and it is the proper number...

The main things I noticed with my TPS having problems was you would go to take off and it would just fall flat on its face till around 2500 rpm, then it would just take off like a bat out of hell. It seems to do this more so when the vehicle was just finished warming up and I was taking off.

I'm not saying that the cold start injector times which is not a problem or that I'm 90 percent sure are any crap like that... There's no way I can know that its not... It's just the way that works it doesn't seem logical to me. I didn't think of it as controlling anything but the cold start injector, and giving it throttle and having it come out of it... Well, I guess that could a crate to something like it's floating for a few seconds and then suddenly as I give it gas and get the cord moving it comes out of it... But I really I'm just guessing.

I have some heater hoses to replace is well while I am doing the valve cover gasket kit, and after I do that I will purposes. The only thing that has kept me from doing that and last couple days is that I would like to decide whether I'm going to just replace the cold start injector time switch or not, because I don't want to waste coolant just for the hell of it. Lol

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thanks...I am posting a link of this to my build thread and will keep this in mind. Sparkplugs.com has great parts and being Denso, I wouldnt worry about their parts.

Buck87

Hi Mark,

I read some but not all of the trouble shooting.

1. Oil Leak...I would start by adjusting the valves and changing the cover gasket while there.

2. Idle miss...

I also thought that I had a vacuum leak but I could not find it with ether.Turns out that it was not a vacuum problem. From what I have seen you do not have a vacuum leak, but be sure to check around the intake manifold, plenum. and throttle body with the ether.

I had a miss for 20,000 mi and finally fixed it after changing the coil 3 times, which is 4 that’s right 4 coils. Chinese coils and rock crawling don’t mix. Testing the coil per the FSM is very easy and so is worthwhile.

If the miss happens at all speeds it probably is not the TPS, but could be the AFM. The AFM is another easy test per the FSM.

Eliminate the power steering diaphragm by temporarily disconnecting the vacuum hose and blocking it off. If the miss goes away you have found the source of the problem. Same with the cruise control vacuum.

Another other clue is to notice if the miss gets worse under load.

I apologies if you have already addressed these things, but I do not have the patience/life span to go through every post on your thread.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanx Matt, and is ok, I understand not having the time. ...

1. I WILL be checking valve lash and head bolt torque value while I am changing the valve cover gasket. Maintenance...

2A. I've changed the throttle body out before, to answer Terry's question as well. But in a relation to vacuum leaks around the trouble body and throttle plate shaft, I've shot half a can of ether, over multiple different times, throughout the intake and throttle body area.

2B. I have a spare dizzy, coil and ignitor... Also, I have checked the resistance values every single item on this truck, including ignition, EFI, at least 5 times over the last couple years. All of this is documented throughout my build and troubleshooting threads, but obviously there is no need to go back through all of that, and needless to say,.... everything fell within specs. Even the air gap on the distributor. However, I am very interested on the coil thing and have been told that before. As I said a few different times, my mess and idling down on hot restarts is likely not related... It could be, but I doubt it.

2C. TPS & AFM: I have also tested the values of these many times... But I'm going to recheck the TPS. Might as well check the air flow meter values as well. Far as me thinking my AFM might be a problem, many times, it wouldbe due to the fact that during cool weather, it seems very often to have more hiccups and weird behavior. Not always, but often and noticeably.

3. I will check the steering for drama in many ways while I am in there. One of them is with a stethoscope. It would help to have someone helping me spear while I listen, but even if I determined that my steering pump is struggling, that doesn't mean replacing it will solve the problem if gearbox is creating too much pressure. But I will try a couple different tests and make sure that it is bled properly .

4. Under load in relation to accelerating or carrying a large payload or going up the hill? I'm not sure if you're referring to the motor or the steering. Steering seems to only sound unhappy when for starting the truck and its cold. The idler pulley bearing is a newER German bearing, & I'm fairly sure it's still good... The power steering pump is fairly new.....

......As far as the motor being under load, once I get going and I'm driving, even on a downhill under high RPM's with no throttle I have not one single pop or tick, ever! It runs very smooth once you are on the skinny pedal and driving around, even its steady speed of 35 in 4th gear , I have no pinging or missing at all. If there is a miss there, I can't feel it, and it is harder to feel when you are actually moving instead of sitting there idling.

Red Wagon

Buck87, love the forum name and avatar.

Clever.


Wow Chef, are there any old parts left on your truck anymore other than body and glass?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS: you can never be absolutely sure, but I would bet dollars to donuts that I am NOT wrong when I say this miss is the same miss that I've had 3 motors and multiple change sensors now.

Again, original items still remaining...

1. CSI Time Switch($233 !)
2. AFM
3. FPR, FPR-VSV & FUEL DAMPER
4. All EFI & IGN wiring
5. Injectors (all 5 serviced and verified excellent by RC)... But nonetheless, orig. Lol.
6. FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT AND SENSOR.... ( which I know would be unrelated to this or trouble with hot restart)

Outsane

Just saw your vid with the new CB set up..

and thought it would be slick to use the 4in speaker in the dash,

Maybe use a relay to switch over from the CB back to the radio when the CB comes on, this way you don't have to mount another "thing" in the rig.

great work

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey man, how's my neighbor down in the SD?

Thanx. ... Someone said they hooked the Cobra 75 WX ST up to the aux in the Car Stereo... Was that you? I'm sorry, I'm just super exhausted from a really long day... I will read back if I don't hear back from you on that one. It sounded like a really good idea and if I don't need to use an external speaker and I can just plug into my stereo... Why not? Very excellent idea! As long as it works of course, hahahahaha. Apparently it's working for someone right?

JonnyBoy

Hmmm, just throwing out an idea, but you listed parts not changed...is the ECM in that list?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Got my replacement "4WD Indicator Sensorb for the Dummy Light from Eric. Mine broke off at the sensor, which is a tough fix... So I did my mod/extension like this, using 2 connectors....



Soldered and heat shrunk cleanly......



VOILA!......



Then I got out all of my heater and fuel hose and cleaned up the garage quite a bit... I will be using some of these hoes is to replace at least the one heater hose in the 2nd picture... It's toast and I'm lucky that it hasn't just blown up to this point!





This is the return line from the power steering fluid cooler 2 the top of the gearbox, which I believe is a low pressure line... I'm just curious if I need to absolutely years power steering hose or if I can use some EFI fuel line.. Her I have plenty of that. I also have 200 psi power steering hose but its 5/8, much too big...



JonnyBoy saw how seemingly frozen these were. The Cruise Control Cable adjustment screw was set for too high and putting way too much of an angle on the cable... I got on it today and it just popped right free... Not sure why I can get it before, but anyway, I think this angle looks much better...



Before I get into the rest I wanted to post a close up picture of the thermal temp time switch. I can't seem to find the whole part number on it......(Maybe it's on the black part that's still dirty???)......





***************************************

So, pulled the Valve cover, after fully warm, in 5 minutes.... a record for me! Lol... Set the valve lash at .007 & .009 & then waited til FULLY cool and rechecked using my .008 & .010 feelers.... Spot on!



Laid in the FELPRO valve cover gasket and mounted the valve cover after removing the old half moons & fully cleaning up the head with denatured alcohol...

Rolled it back in the garage and will start it up tomorrow... Sure hope it's sealed up for a bit! Lol....

Take care guys.... I have more info regarding some other things, but I'll save it for tomorrow since I'm passing out.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Jonny! Stay dafe out there!

I've swapped in a couple different ECU's in the past... That was just related to the mess that I had and the fact that it was idling on all the time after just going into closed loop... I change so many things that I can't be sure what I have actually felt helped... One thing for sure was the cam I was in such horrible shape after Vellios did that horrible grind on it. Also, after a bit, I changed out that thermal temp time switch on the thermostat housing... It didn't seem like it changed anything at the time, but maybe it did help a little bit as the truck seemed to run well after initially going into closed loop at some point thereafter, and before this newISH gremlin showed up.

I believe I still have one 87 ECU spare.... I will check. I was going to say in my next post that's one of the things I was going to try.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'm just curious why it is saying that my post was at 12:04 a.m. When it was actually at 1:04 a.m.... I guess maybe I'm set to mountain time or something? Hahaha

Ocell

I don't know much about that particular radio. I think it depends on whether that's a Line-Out output or an External Speaker output. If it's meant to push an unamplified speaker, you may fry the line-in circuit on your car stereo because it will be pushing too much power.

Red Wagon

Oh nice fix for your 4WD light. I assume you lost it during the SAS? Mine no longer works when I swapped to the older style axle tube.

You still have a stock power steering pump?

I've had problems with the connections leaking and causing air to get into the system with the same clamp you have on. It cavitated the pump making it scream. I ripped out some of the Toyota clamps from my parts truck. I wish I knew what they where called? The one with the a screw the pushes down on. Sorta like this one but the screw is vertical.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YES, ....dang, you're right. Somebody had mentioned the connected it to their of jewelry of their stereo. I can't seem to find the post now. Maybe it was in the "What did you do to your route today?" thread. Thanks for the good heads up man... I will check it out.

Nope, I didn't lose it, it was still screwed into the transfer case... But when doing the door cases it made it much longer coming from the harness... So Eric spliced in a longer piece of wire... It was all tied up very nicely... Just not quite long enough, so it was tight right of the last zip tie... I guess over the vibrating in the first week or so it just ripped right out of the sensor. Its just a little push button inside, much like a refrigerator push button light, except it activates when it is pushed in.... I don't understand why changing axles cause you to lose the 4 wheel drive light... Maybe yours works differently than mine? I thought on the older ones, they all worked off the transfer case?

I'm definitely going to replace the low pressure power steering hose that was leaking... It's the only one that hasn't been replaced. the leaking hose that you saw in the above pictures is the heater core hose from the back portion of the straight pipe coming out of the timing cover on the driver side... That is where I have my T as well..... Just below the T is compromised. I would like to replace the upper portion as well but it has like 4 bends in it and I think on that I would just bite the bullet and grab it from Toyota. I believe I did find it at O'Reilly... So I'm sure other places have it as well. I just remember it being a price that wouldn't really save me much compared to Toyota. We will see. I would rather replace the whole thing then just that bottom section.

Red Wagon

I'm supposed to have 2 switches. One in the ADD part and one somewhere else. With the ADD axle tube gone it isn't sending the signal to turn the light on. I'll have to be creative.

I'm up for a vehicle inspection in a few months so I have lot's of minor things to fix to make her road worthy back home.

Things like rust holes possibly and definitely dash lights turning on that are supposed to be on, that ABS light which is on off and fender flares.


_