ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#7421
Registered User
youve got those H4 replaceable headlights dont ya? not the 6x7 sealed beams, they do draw a lot of amps id add a few better (bigger) grounds
terry's got the gauge fix i cleaned my temp gauge studs an they were loose long before i got my engine running so i havent seen that temp needle issue in mine
bad gremlin bad!
terry's got the gauge fix i cleaned my temp gauge studs an they were loose long before i got my engine running so i havent seen that temp needle issue in mine
bad gremlin bad!
#7422
Chef - hmm, interesting one on your gremlin. Alternator issues perhaps. Are your grounds all good? Definitely seems electrical since just turning on the headlights really choked it.
One more thought on your antenna mount, and not that it matters now, but I think if you remove both of those allen screws from the adjustable part, and then put the piece where the antenna bolts behind the other piece, you can then insert the allen bolts from the front so if you ever wanted to adjust the angle of it you won't have to remove the whole bracket. Anyway, don't think it matters now since you have it set where you want it, but from the pics it looks like you could swap it around. Good job on the whole CB install, I really like the whole thing. Once you get the rock lights wired up, we can go ahead and trade trucks since you've just about gotten everything right where I want it.
One more thought on your antenna mount, and not that it matters now, but I think if you remove both of those allen screws from the adjustable part, and then put the piece where the antenna bolts behind the other piece, you can then insert the allen bolts from the front so if you ever wanted to adjust the angle of it you won't have to remove the whole bracket. Anyway, don't think it matters now since you have it set where you want it, but from the pics it looks like you could swap it around. Good job on the whole CB install, I really like the whole thing. Once you get the rock lights wired up, we can go ahead and trade trucks since you've just about gotten everything right where I want it.
Thanks on the bracket idea. I will look into that and I think that it is kind of limiting when you put it in the back as I'm not sure I could tilt it towards the "A" beam of the rear of the shell, which is the only way I would really tilt it.
TERRY,......SPEECHLESS! I will look into that and update as to what I find! Thank you so much man!
#7423
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#7424
youve got those H4 replaceable headlights dont ya? not the 6x7 sealed beams, they do draw a lot of amps id add a few better (bigger) grounds
terry's got the gauge fix i cleaned my temp gauge studs an they were loose long before i got my engine running so i havent seen that temp needle issue in mine
bad gremlin bad!
terry's got the gauge fix i cleaned my temp gauge studs an they were loose long before i got my engine running so i havent seen that temp needle issue in mine
bad gremlin bad!
I like that mount ...looks like my tailgate lock setup I made (one of the drawbacks of 3rd gen trucks, no factory or aftermarket lock available). If I put an antenna on mine I'll do the same thing and then just modify the bracket so it becomes both my tailgate lock and antenna mount
Thanks, Grego! I appreciate the compliment.....
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-15-2013 at 12:22 PM.
#7425
Bigger ground wires will not help the stock headlamp circuit because the problem is in the convoluted ground path from bulb, to cabin, to dash, through dimmer switch, back to engine compartment to fender ground (near fuse block), over approx 15 feet of thin wire. A conversion harness will significantly help. See 4crawler's page and my sig. Using offroad bulbs (100W high-beams) would make things worse for your dimmer switch (more current to beat on contacts).
#7426
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I would also look at your Water Thermo Switch but cleaning the others wont hurt either. Meant to say on my earlier post that I like the clean, everything hidden look in your truck. Been seeing a few threads about Runners on the west coast getting new owners without payment. From Washington down to your area. One less thing to draw there attention.
Copied...
I had to take two intakes and make one. Here are the dirty sensors. Cleaning temp guage one in between #2 and #3 cylinders has helped my temp guage to be more stable then jumping around.(Top Right).
Here they are cleaned. I just use a brass tooth brush and water to get them cleaned. The manual says to wrap the Cold Start Injector Time Switch (Sensor with Brown top)with plumbers tape. I do them all. I haven done it yet but will when I put the motor together.
Copied...
I had to take two intakes and make one. Here are the dirty sensors. Cleaning temp guage one in between #2 and #3 cylinders has helped my temp guage to be more stable then jumping around.(Top Right).
Here they are cleaned. I just use a brass tooth brush and water to get them cleaned. The manual says to wrap the Cold Start Injector Time Switch (Sensor with Brown top)with plumbers tape. I do them all. I haven done it yet but will when I put the motor together.
#7427
Registered User
Hi William and guys,
Bigger ground wires will not help the stock headlamp circuit because the problem is in the convoluted ground path from bulb, to cabin, to dash, through dimmer switch, back to engine compartment to fender ground (near fuse block), over approx 15 feet of thin wire. A conversion harness will significantly help. See 4crawler's page and my sig. Using offroad bulbs (100W high-beams) would make things worse for your dimmer switch (more current to beat on contacts).
Bigger ground wires will not help the stock headlamp circuit because the problem is in the convoluted ground path from bulb, to cabin, to dash, through dimmer switch, back to engine compartment to fender ground (near fuse block), over approx 15 feet of thin wire. A conversion harness will significantly help. See 4crawler's page and my sig. Using offroad bulbs (100W high-beams) would make things worse for your dimmer switch (more current to beat on contacts).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330813121438...84.m1423.l2649
#7430
I would also look at your Water Thermo Switch but cleaning the others wont hurt either. Meant to say on my earlier post that I like the clean, everything hidden look in your truck. Been seeing a few threads about Runners on the west coast getting new owners without payment. From Washington down to your area. One less thing to draw there attention.
Copied...
I had to take two intakes and make one. Here are the dirty sensors. Cleaning temp guage one in between #2 and #3 cylinders has helped my temp guage to be more stable then jumping around.(Top Right).
Here they are cleaned. I just use a brass tooth brush and water to get them cleaned. The manual says to wrap the Cold Start Injector Time Switch (Sensor with Brown top)with plumbers tape. I do them all. I haven done it yet but will when I put the motor together.
Copied...
I had to take two intakes and make one. Here are the dirty sensors. Cleaning temp guage one in between #2 and #3 cylinders has helped my temp guage to be more stable then jumping around.(Top Right).
Here they are cleaned. I just use a brass tooth brush and water to get them cleaned. The manual says to wrap the Cold Start Injector Time Switch (Sensor with Brown top)with plumbers tape. I do them all. I haven done it yet but will when I put the motor together.
oh i read through both yours an 4crawls on it very bad engineering on toyotas part its why ive got a relayed harness on ebay bookmarked for my upgrade to the H4 replaceable bulb types, once installed it would remove the high amps going through the stalk an switch
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330813121438...84.m1423.l2649
I'm really stoked, guys! I've nearly wrapped up the CD install and will be posting some pictures and video tonight before I crash out. Just need the antenna soldered in there and the SWR's set.... And voila!
#7431
YES, BADDDDDDDD! Nope, I've done nothing to the headlight assembly or harness. And I have Silverstar sealed beams. They are definitely much brighter than my factory 6054 lights were... But they are probably not as bright as they could be if I put in Hella harness and H4's!
4Crawler has a nice one.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...OnLineOrdering
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...adlights.shtml
I installed a NOS PIAA H4 harness in my '81. It made a huge difference when I was running the H4's
#7432
Thankya, DZ!
WHAT ABOUT THESE? .....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00802...pi=SL500_SS115
The funny thing is, it's so rare that I have to change a headlight, and I really am much happier with the Silver Star Sylvania is compared to the stock... I suppose if I I'm going to do the h for conversion then I better figure it out which harness I'm going to order right? Is in there a kiss is just comes with everything? I'm sorry that's a stupid question... I already know there is... What I mean is is there a harness set up that is preferred over Hella?
WHAT ABOUT THESE? .....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00802...pi=SL500_SS115
The funny thing is, it's so rare that I have to change a headlight, and I really am much happier with the Silver Star Sylvania is compared to the stock... I suppose if I I'm going to do the h for conversion then I better figure it out which harness I'm going to order right? Is in there a kiss is just comes with everything? I'm sorry that's a stupid question... I already know there is... What I mean is is there a harness set up that is preferred over Hella?
#7433
nice antenna mount. surprised you didnt mount it to the bumper instead?
anyways. im gonna be in LA area next month for a toyota training class. normally we go up north to Sac but LA is the only area having the class I need. anyways, did you have stock pitman arms you wanna sell? i know we talked a little but never got an answer if you wanted to sell.
anyways. im gonna be in LA area next month for a toyota training class. normally we go up north to Sac but LA is the only area having the class I need. anyways, did you have stock pitman arms you wanna sell? i know we talked a little but never got an answer if you wanted to sell.
#7435
COBRA 75WX ST & MK-204R DOORJAMB/TRUNK MOUNTING BRACKET & 18' FIRERING ANTENNA KIT INSTALL...PART 2 .....
Hey Homies, what y'all think?...
So I unlocked this, grabbed the coax that I'd routed through the taillight grommet from the outside, and routed the antenna wiring to the back panel side pockets area in the panels.....
Reached in the pocket recess.....
Then ran it up as far as I could to this lil exit location I decided, below the B pillar, right at the carpet......
Ran the wire under the carpet, over to the driver side corner, then back over to the center (avoiding foot resting areas). This allowed me to route the 18 foot coax from the tail light all the way the console mounted Cobra remote box without ever coiling or laying over the wire even once... Wound up being the perfect layout! I run the wire up by the seat belt hole.......
I mounted the hanger here (you'll see it better in the video).......
EXCELLENT ergonomic factor.... and should be easier to hear than when on the dash ( Plus, mounting location for the hangar allows me to just pull it out of the console and rested in the hanger then place it back in there at the end of the day.)...
And,..... I just hope that maybe this could be helpful to someone else with a 1st generation 4Runner..... I really appreciate everyones input, and I mean it when I say that it always helps me to figure out what I'm going to do. I often do things like this my own way, but I hope they make sense to more than just me? Hahaha. Actually, as long as it works I guess that's all that matters... Well, as long as it works properly and as well as it can possibly work! Lol...
Video...
Hey Homies, what y'all think?...
So I unlocked this, grabbed the coax that I'd routed through the taillight grommet from the outside, and routed the antenna wiring to the back panel side pockets area in the panels.....
Reached in the pocket recess.....
Then ran it up as far as I could to this lil exit location I decided, below the B pillar, right at the carpet......
Ran the wire under the carpet, over to the driver side corner, then back over to the center (avoiding foot resting areas). This allowed me to route the 18 foot coax from the tail light all the way the console mounted Cobra remote box without ever coiling or laying over the wire even once... Wound up being the perfect layout! I run the wire up by the seat belt hole.......
I mounted the hanger here (you'll see it better in the video).......
EXCELLENT ergonomic factor.... and should be easier to hear than when on the dash ( Plus, mounting location for the hangar allows me to just pull it out of the console and rested in the hanger then place it back in there at the end of the day.)...
And,..... I just hope that maybe this could be helpful to someone else with a 1st generation 4Runner..... I really appreciate everyones input, and I mean it when I say that it always helps me to figure out what I'm going to do. I often do things like this my own way, but I hope they make sense to more than just me? Hahaha. Actually, as long as it works I guess that's all that matters... Well, as long as it works properly and as well as it can possibly work! Lol...
Video...
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-15-2013 at 10:55 PM.
#7436
On mine:
Stock Wiring on Low Beam voltage drop was 7.5% of battery voltage
Stock Wiring on High Beam, volt drop was 15.7% of battery voltage!
After Retrofit on Low Beam: Volt Drop is only 1.6% of Battery voltage
After Retrofit on High Beam: Voltage drop is only 3.75% of battery voltage
...it's so rare that I have to change a headlight, and I really am much happier with the Silver Star Sylvania is compared to the stock... I suppose if I I'm going to do the h for conversion then I better figure it out which harness I'm going to order right? Is in there a kiss is just comes with everything? I'm sorry that's a stupid question... I already know there is... What I mean is is there a harness set up that is preferred over Hella?
I am not aware of Hella making a harness. Hella sells the conversion headlamp assembly that's supposed to be better than Autopal's from Ebay.
Example of the conversion harness are one on William's post and DZ's "NOS PIAA H4 harness".
Since your Sylvania's are still good, I recommend a conversion harness first. It would eliminate voltage drops ^^ and make your Sylvania's even brighter.
Then, you can take your time shopping/researching for the conversion headlight assembly you want.
#7437
Registered User
dont forget to remove the sticker off the speaker on the hand held... :-)
roof is a better spot for the ext speaker your ear will hear it far better even with the sterio going
mine has grab handles in the back seat 87 vs 88
just ask the cb shop to put one on (90 right angle coax connector) they usually have them available decently priced
roof is a better spot for the ext speaker your ear will hear it far better even with the sterio going
mine has grab handles in the back seat 87 vs 88
just ask the cb shop to put one on (90 right angle coax connector) they usually have them available decently priced
Last edited by Cyberhorn The Dragon; 08-16-2013 at 01:44 AM.
#7438
Yeah, that looks like a good one- same that Grego has in mind. Just check wire size, and look at build quality.
Agree, DZ.
On mine:
Stock Wiring on Low Beam voltage drop was 7.5% of battery voltage
Stock Wiring on High Beam, volt drop was 15.7% of battery voltage!
After Retrofit on Low Beam: Volt Drop is only 1.6% of Battery voltage
After Retrofit on High Beam: Voltage drop is only 3.75% of battery voltage
Mark,
I am not aware of Hella making a harness. Hella sells the conversion headlamp assembly that's supposed to be better than Autopal's from Ebay.
Example of the conversion harness are one on William's post and DZ's "NOS PIAA H4 harness".
Since your Sylvania's are still good, I recommend a conversion harness first. It would eliminate voltage drops ^^ and make your Sylvania's even brighter.
Then, you can take your time shopping/researching for the conversion headlight assembly you want.
dont forget to remove the sticker off the speaker on the hand held... :-)
roof is a better spot for the ext speaker your ear will hear it far better even with the sterio going
mine has grab handles in the back seat 87 vs 88
just ask the cb shop to put one on (90 right angle coax connector) they usually have them available decently priced
roof is a better spot for the ext speaker your ear will hear it far better even with the sterio going
mine has grab handles in the back seat 87 vs 88
just ask the cb shop to put one on (90 right angle coax connector) they usually have them available decently priced
Far as the 90* angle coax... I will call ahead... See if he had one in shop. Thanks, good idea, it would make it even cleaner.
#7439
Heading of to AB Mobile, to have Alberto Benucci, whom I'm told is one heck of a ham radio guru and otherwise... as soon as I can get out of here I'm heading over there to have this wrapped up... I will try to get some pictures if Mr Benucci doesn't mind. Lol.
As soon as I finish that I am moving on to the blue sea fuse block, relays, switches, and air compressor set up wish I should be ordering sometime today or tomorrow.
As far as the air, I think having a tank mounted in the spare tire location is really probably the best way to go. Its in the center and while it's in the rear, with the 50 foot hose I don't really see any problem using it in any direction up to 20 feet from the truck. Does anybody have any ideas as far as if my heavy duty 50 foot rubber air hose is good to go for this application? I already use it to run my tools off a 200 pound Campbell Hausfeld compressor at my home. Its a harbor Freight hose but it seems to be good quality and a matter of fact I believe it's actually one of the better ones they offer . I know people like to use the coil up ones, and I'm not totally against that... But, from everything I've read, the heavy duty rubber ones are way better way to go as far as never ever having to worry about that hose again. Plus, it doesn't have to stay with my truck 100 percent of the time... What I needed I can just pull it out of the rear panels and use it at my house ... So, I don't see why not on using a more heavy duty 50 foot hose. I don't care about having to roll it up and all that that's fine.... I might have found something that I can use as a crossbar, using the spare tire supports let go from front to rear... I will post more on that later.
As soon as I finish that I am moving on to the blue sea fuse block, relays, switches, and air compressor set up wish I should be ordering sometime today or tomorrow.
As far as the air, I think having a tank mounted in the spare tire location is really probably the best way to go. Its in the center and while it's in the rear, with the 50 foot hose I don't really see any problem using it in any direction up to 20 feet from the truck. Does anybody have any ideas as far as if my heavy duty 50 foot rubber air hose is good to go for this application? I already use it to run my tools off a 200 pound Campbell Hausfeld compressor at my home. Its a harbor Freight hose but it seems to be good quality and a matter of fact I believe it's actually one of the better ones they offer . I know people like to use the coil up ones, and I'm not totally against that... But, from everything I've read, the heavy duty rubber ones are way better way to go as far as never ever having to worry about that hose again. Plus, it doesn't have to stay with my truck 100 percent of the time... What I needed I can just pull it out of the rear panels and use it at my house ... So, I don't see why not on using a more heavy duty 50 foot hose. I don't care about having to roll it up and all that that's fine.... I might have found something that I can use as a crossbar, using the spare tire supports let go from front to rear... I will post more on that later.
#7440