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ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread

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Old 08-15-2013, 10:19 AM
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youve got those H4 replaceable headlights dont ya? not the 6x7 sealed beams, they do draw a lot of amps id add a few better (bigger) grounds

terry's got the gauge fix i cleaned my temp gauge studs an they were loose long before i got my engine running so i havent seen that temp needle issue in mine

bad gremlin bad!
Old 08-15-2013, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Wagon
I'm so glad I've not run into electrical issues yet. All those wires freak me out a bit. I don't even really know how to read the diagrams properly yet.
I'm learning, but I feel you are rocking nature of it all!

Originally Posted by coryc85
Chef - hmm, interesting one on your gremlin. Alternator issues perhaps. Are your grounds all good? Definitely seems electrical since just turning on the headlights really choked it.

One more thought on your antenna mount, and not that it matters now, but I think if you remove both of those allen screws from the adjustable part, and then put the piece where the antenna bolts behind the other piece, you can then insert the allen bolts from the front so if you ever wanted to adjust the angle of it you won't have to remove the whole bracket. Anyway, don't think it matters now since you have it set where you want it, but from the pics it looks like you could swap it around. Good job on the whole CB install, I really like the whole thing. Once you get the rock lights wired up, we can go ahead and trade trucks since you've just about gotten everything right where I want it.
Yeah, its a newer alternator, and even though I have had this issue with the last alternator,....and my voltage seems to be a solid 14.58 at idle..... never know. I should check it with the headlights on as well, +, +, +......Also, I have always found that headlight thing odd, especially since it doesnt seem to always do that( nor does it seem to get worse when I go further to the high beams) . My headlights seem pretty bright, and they dont seem to wave in intensity. ...so I'm not sure I necessarily suspect them, but I guess it couldnt hurt to do the Hella upgrade, along with checking for continuity through the wiring that would remain (in the switch/column as well).

Thanks on the bracket idea. I will look into that and I think that it is kind of limiting when you put it in the back as I'm not sure I could tilt it towards the "A" beam of the rear of the shell, which is the only way I would really tilt it.

TERRY,......SPEECHLESS! I will look into that and update as to what I find! Thank you so much man!
Old 08-15-2013, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4


I like that mount ...looks like my tailgate lock setup I made (one of the drawbacks of 3rd gen trucks, no factory or aftermarket lock available). If I put an antenna on mine I'll do the same thing and then just modify the bracket so it becomes both my tailgate lock and antenna mount

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Old 08-15-2013, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyberhorn The Dragon
youve got those H4 replaceable headlights dont ya? not the 6x7 sealed beams, they do draw a lot of amps id add a few better (bigger) grounds

terry's got the gauge fix i cleaned my temp gauge studs an they were loose long before i got my engine running so i havent seen that temp needle issue in mine

bad gremlin bad!
YES, BADDDDDDDD! Nope, I've done nothing to the headlight assembly or harness. And I have Silverstar sealed beams. They are definitely much brighter than my factory 6054 lights were... But they are probably not as bright as they could be if I put in Hella harness and H4's!

Originally Posted by Grego92

I like that mount ...looks like my tailgate lock setup I made (one of the drawbacks of 3rd gen trucks, no factory or aftermarket lock available). If I put an antenna on mine I'll do the same thing and then just modify the bracket so it becomes both my tailgate lock and antenna mount


AWESOME IDEA! I probably dont need that with a 4Runner, but that is a great idea to keep ppl from being able to open and drag things out!

Thanks, Grego! I appreciate the compliment.....

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-15-2013 at 12:22 PM.
Old 08-15-2013, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyberhorn The Dragon
youve got those H4 replaceable headlights dont ya? not the 6x7 sealed beams, they do draw a lot of amps id add a few better (bigger) grounds
Hi William and guys,
Bigger ground wires will not help the stock headlamp circuit because the problem is in the convoluted ground path from bulb, to cabin, to dash, through dimmer switch, back to engine compartment to fender ground (near fuse block), over approx 15 feet of thin wire. A conversion harness will significantly help. See 4crawler's page and my sig. Using offroad bulbs (100W high-beams) would make things worse for your dimmer switch (more current to beat on contacts).
Old 08-15-2013, 12:56 PM
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I would also look at your Water Thermo Switch but cleaning the others wont hurt either. Meant to say on my earlier post that I like the clean, everything hidden look in your truck. Been seeing a few threads about Runners on the west coast getting new owners without payment. From Washington down to your area. One less thing to draw there attention.

Copied...
I had to take two intakes and make one. Here are the dirty sensors. Cleaning temp guage one in between #2 and #3 cylinders has helped my temp guage to be more stable then jumping around.(Top Right).
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Here they are cleaned. I just use a brass tooth brush and water to get them cleaned. The manual says to wrap the Cold Start Injector Time Switch (Sensor with Brown top)with plumbers tape. I do them all. I haven done it yet but will when I put the motor together.
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Hi William and guys,
Bigger ground wires will not help the stock headlamp circuit because the problem is in the convoluted ground path from bulb, to cabin, to dash, through dimmer switch, back to engine compartment to fender ground (near fuse block), over approx 15 feet of thin wire. A conversion harness will significantly help. See 4crawler's page and my sig. Using offroad bulbs (100W high-beams) would make things worse for your dimmer switch (more current to beat on contacts).
oh i read through both yours an 4crawls on it very bad engineering on toyotas part its why ive got a relayed harness on ebay bookmarked for my upgrade to the H4 replaceable bulb types, once installed it would remove the high amps going through the stalk an switch
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330813121438...84.m1423.l2649
Old 08-15-2013, 03:05 PM
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You put that cb box right where I was going to suggest Mark... great minds think alike lol...

Hope you're feeling better
Old 08-15-2013, 06:32 PM
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been awhile since ive checked your thread, that things lookin sick!! Nice work Mark
Old 08-15-2013, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
I would also look at your Water Thermo Switch but cleaning the others wont hurt either. Meant to say on my earlier post that I like the clean, everything hidden look in your truck. Been seeing a few threads about Runners on the west coast getting new owners without payment. From Washington down to your area. One less thing to draw there attention.

Copied...
I had to take two intakes and make one. Here are the dirty sensors. Cleaning temp guage one in between #2 and #3 cylinders has helped my temp guage to be more stable then jumping around.(Top Right).

Here they are cleaned. I just use a brass tooth brush and water to get them cleaned. The manual says to wrap the Cold Start Injector Time Switch (Sensor with Brown top)with plumbers tape. I do them all. I haven done it yet but will when I put the motor together.
My coolant temp sensor is new from Toyota. The cold start injector time switch is not.... But I cleaned it very well. However, there is some notations that Toyo made, regarding certain upgrades to sensors were falling short I'm causing problems in 87 in particular. 87 is that in between model the from everything I've read has a lot of problems. I have to replace my heater core hose to the wrap-around part to the driver side of the back of the timing cover.... So I will burp it, well, then.

Originally Posted by Cyberhorn The Dragon

oh i read through both yours an 4crawls on it very bad engineering on toyotas part its why ive got a relayed harness on ebay bookmarked for my upgrade to the H4 replaceable bulb types, once installed it would remove the high amps going through the stalk an switch
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330813121438...84.m1423.l2649
Gonna get on this asap. I also need a deflator kit and a couple other things. Jay reminding myself.

Originally Posted by aviator
You put that cb box right where I was going to suggest Mark... great minds think alike lol...

Hope you're feeling better
Wooot! Lol.... ineed, and your a sharp cat.... So I'll take that as a compliment Thanks, I am feeling better.... except for my feet.... Ahhhhhhhh! Ò.Ó .... lol

Originally Posted by kornhuskerwizard
been awhile since ive checked your thread, that things lookin sick!! Nice work Mark
Why thank you, my Nebraskan Yota brotha! Lol.....

I'm really stoked, guys! I've nearly wrapped up the CD install and will be posting some pictures and video tonight before I crash out. Just need the antenna soldered in there and the SWR's set.... And voila!
Old 08-15-2013, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
YES, BADDDDDDDD! Nope, I've done nothing to the headlight assembly or harness. And I have Silverstar sealed beams. They are definitely much brighter than my factory 6054 lights were... But they are probably not as bright as they could be if I put in Hella harness and H4's!
A different harness would be a vast improvement over the stock harness.
4Crawler has a nice one.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...OnLineOrdering
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...adlights.shtml

I installed a NOS PIAA H4 harness in my '81. It made a huge difference when I was running the H4's
Old 08-15-2013, 09:31 PM
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Thankya, DZ!

WHAT ABOUT THESE? .....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00802...pi=SL500_SS115

The funny thing is, it's so rare that I have to change a headlight, and I really am much happier with the Silver Star Sylvania is compared to the stock... I suppose if I I'm going to do the h for conversion then I better figure it out which harness I'm going to order right? Is in there a kiss is just comes with everything? I'm sorry that's a stupid question... I already know there is... What I mean is is there a harness set up that is preferred over Hella?
Old 08-15-2013, 10:14 PM
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nice antenna mount. surprised you didnt mount it to the bumper instead?

anyways. im gonna be in LA area next month for a toyota training class. normally we go up north to Sac but LA is the only area having the class I need. anyways, did you have stock pitman arms you wanna sell? i know we talked a little but never got an answer if you wanted to sell.
Old 08-15-2013, 10:16 PM
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they make the silverstar bulbs in the H4 as well
Old 08-15-2013, 10:32 PM
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COBRA 75WX ST & MK-204R DOORJAMB/TRUNK MOUNTING BRACKET & 18' FIRERING ANTENNA KIT INSTALL...PART 2 .....

Hey Homies, what y'all think?...

So I unlocked this, grabbed the coax that I'd routed through the taillight grommet from the outside, and routed the antenna wiring to the back panel side pockets area in the panels.....

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Reached in the pocket recess.....

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Then ran it up as far as I could to this lil exit location I decided, below the B pillar, right at the carpet......

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Ran the wire under the carpet, over to the driver side corner, then back over to the center (avoiding foot resting areas). This allowed me to route the 18 foot coax from the tail light all the way the console mounted Cobra remote box without ever coiling or laying over the wire even once... Wound up being the perfect layout! I run the wire up by the seat belt hole.......

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I mounted the hanger here (you'll see it better in the video).......

EXCELLENT ergonomic factor.... and should be easier to hear than when on the dash ( Plus, mounting location for the hangar allows me to just pull it out of the console and rested in the hanger then place it back in there at the end of the day.)...

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And,..... I just hope that maybe this could be helpful to someone else with a 1st generation 4Runner..... I really appreciate everyones input, and I mean it when I say that it always helps me to figure out what I'm going to do. I often do things like this my own way, but I hope they make sense to more than just me? Hahaha. Actually, as long as it works I guess that's all that matters... Well, as long as it works properly and as well as it can possibly work! Lol...

Video...


Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-15-2013 at 10:55 PM.
Old 08-15-2013, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyberhorn The Dragon
Yeah, that looks like a good one- same that Grego has in mind. Just check wire size, and look at build quality.

Originally Posted by dropzone
A different harness would be a vast improvement over the stock harness... I installed a NOS PIAA H4 harness in my '81. It made a huge difference when I was running the H4's
Agree, DZ.
On mine:
Stock Wiring on Low Beam voltage drop was 7.5% of battery voltage
Stock Wiring on High Beam, volt drop was 15.7% of battery voltage!
After Retrofit on Low Beam: Volt Drop is only 1.6% of Battery voltage
After Retrofit on High Beam: Voltage drop is only 3.75% of battery voltage

Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
...it's so rare that I have to change a headlight, and I really am much happier with the Silver Star Sylvania is compared to the stock... I suppose if I I'm going to do the h for conversion then I better figure it out which harness I'm going to order right? Is in there a kiss is just comes with everything? I'm sorry that's a stupid question... I already know there is... What I mean is is there a harness set up that is preferred over Hella?
Mark,
I am not aware of Hella making a harness. Hella sells the conversion headlamp assembly that's supposed to be better than Autopal's from Ebay.

Example of the conversion harness are one on William's post and DZ's "NOS PIAA H4 harness".

Since your Sylvania's are still good, I recommend a conversion harness first. It would eliminate voltage drops ^^ and make your Sylvania's even brighter.

Then, you can take your time shopping/researching for the conversion headlight assembly you want.
Old 08-16-2013, 01:33 AM
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dont forget to remove the sticker off the speaker on the hand held... :-)

roof is a better spot for the ext speaker your ear will hear it far better even with the sterio going
mine has grab handles in the back seat 87 vs 88

just ask the cb shop to put one on (90 right angle coax connector) they usually have them available decently priced

Last edited by Cyberhorn The Dragon; 08-16-2013 at 01:44 AM.
Old 08-16-2013, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner

Yeah, that looks like a good one- same that Grego has in mind. Just check wire size, and look at build quality.

Agree, DZ.
On mine:
Stock Wiring on Low Beam voltage drop was 7.5% of battery voltage
Stock Wiring on High Beam, volt drop was 15.7% of battery voltage!
After Retrofit on Low Beam: Volt Drop is only 1.6% of Battery voltage
After Retrofit on High Beam: Voltage drop is only 3.75% of battery voltage

Mark,
I am not aware of Hella making a harness. Hella sells the conversion headlamp assembly that's supposed to be better than Autopal's from Ebay.

Example of the conversion harness are one on William's post and DZ's "NOS PIAA H4 harness".

Since your Sylvania's are still good, I recommend a conversion harness first. It would eliminate voltage drops ^^ and make your Sylvania's even brighter.

Then, you can take your time shopping/researching for the conversion headlight assembly you want.
Thanks Ray! Hmmmm, so it's pretty straight forward, the rewire for that harness? Is Rogers (4crawler) harness likely to be more heavy wire/more personal detail due to him building them? (Him being a master electrician and all). I didn't see if he does both HID AND 6054-to-H4 replacement plug connectors..... I will look again(I think the light housing kits come with the plug in modified to fit or plug, no?).

Originally Posted by Cyberhorn The Dragon
dont forget to remove the sticker off the speaker on the hand held... :-)

roof is a better spot for the ext speaker your ear will hear it far better even with the sterio going
mine has grab handles in the back seat 87 vs 88

just ask the cb shop to put one on (90 right angle coax connector) they usually have them available decently priced
I wish I had those handles.... but mine had no fixed nut in the hole. Was it an option, either way? I almost never have passengers,.... but I'd like that to someday change...... Gosh, that's depressing; ...OH WELL, gotta work on changing that at some point.

Far as the 90* angle coax... I will call ahead... See if he had one in shop. Thanks, good idea, it would make it even cleaner.
Old 08-16-2013, 11:58 AM
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Heading of to AB Mobile, to have Alberto Benucci, whom I'm told is one heck of a ham radio guru and otherwise... as soon as I can get out of here I'm heading over there to have this wrapped up... I will try to get some pictures if Mr Benucci doesn't mind. Lol.

As soon as I finish that I am moving on to the blue sea fuse block, relays, switches, and air compressor set up wish I should be ordering sometime today or tomorrow.

As far as the air, I think having a tank mounted in the spare tire location is really probably the best way to go. Its in the center and while it's in the rear, with the 50 foot hose I don't really see any problem using it in any direction up to 20 feet from the truck. Does anybody have any ideas as far as if my heavy duty 50 foot rubber air hose is good to go for this application? I already use it to run my tools off a 200 pound Campbell Hausfeld compressor at my home. Its a harbor Freight hose but it seems to be good quality and a matter of fact I believe it's actually one of the better ones they offer . I know people like to use the coil up ones, and I'm not totally against that... But, from everything I've read, the heavy duty rubber ones are way better way to go as far as never ever having to worry about that hose again. Plus, it doesn't have to stay with my truck 100 percent of the time... What I needed I can just pull it out of the rear panels and use it at my house ... So, I don't see why not on using a more heavy duty 50 foot hose. I don't care about having to roll it up and all that that's fine.... I might have found something that I can use as a crossbar, using the spare tire supports let go from front to rear... I will post more on that later.
Old 08-16-2013, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Thanks Ray! Hmmmm, so it's pretty straight forward, the rewire for that harness?
Yes, Mark, plug and play. No change to stock circuit is necessary. Roger's website says he's out of the harness.


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