ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Mike, very much appreciated. I get it on the avoiding the dramatic CV angle increase. I also get the washers for spacing point. Far as shocks, I need new ones, anyway, lol. My shocks are AT LEAST 165K old...and possibly ORIGINAL! lol. I mentioned the ones I'll probably have, a few pages back... Fox 2.0/Adjustable & Rebuildable as well. They're PRETTY expensive if I had to buy them new...but my buddy races(new buddy I met from Yotatech, ...worked on his rig with him, so he said he'd like to help me out!)...and he has a type of sponsorship with them or something.

GOTCHA on the "NO LOW PRO STOPS"..... They seem to be for more INSANE kits where they eliminate BJ's and put in Custom A-arms, etc.... like my buddy, the racer is doing!(too much cabbage for me right now. I could do the SAS for around the same, with him helping me with all of it... but can't afford either at the moment, ya know?--gotta be frugal in these times! lol)

I'll be content with even a lil more travel(2" or so? lol) and a lil increase height of the front end, bout 1.5".

I'm gonna shoot 4Crawler a condensed, 4 line or so ''This is what I want, this is what I have.... what's best?" type email and order what I need from him at one time, then the shocks and lower BJ's at the same time as well, to get free shipping on "anything over 100$" hahaha.

No comment!

I could PM ya, but I'm just not wanting to post on that in my thread, hahaaha. I tried to talk about the Drivers License TAX in CA(yeah, I KNOW, ANOTHER TAX!) on a thread that was started,.... people quickly jumped on and started with the 'careful, this is not allowed to become political on this site'..... Whether I agree or not, fully... I understand, and it's their site(plenty of places to have those discussions.... I get it, they can turn REALLY ugly, really quickly, lol). So, I'll pass on answering that one for now, lol. I know one thing I can say, which you obviously know... "It DID NOT pass". lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I was so deeply hurt by the "did you find yer nuts and finally put that grill guard on?.... Oh, it's just resting on a stool, nvm!" comment from X, I almost wept! HAHAHA, jk... Thanks, buddy, actually gave me the incentive, once I realized they were eating out for lunch, to PUT THIS SUCKER ON! .............

Downey Off-Road's Grill/Bumper Guard with Dick Cepek 8" Halogens...........

Before I put the skid back on(did some painting, too)....


After skids back on with a few different angles...(go figure, it's almost dark out it's so overcast... but they'll do I hope? lol)....




Painted skid and some of the components around the brace, and brace.....


More Yotaporn.... hahaha.........



I'll get some better ones on a sunny day... Thanks for the kick in the pants, X, it really did help! Thanks to my neighbor, RONNIE! ...He brought his grinder to help me get that one screw off holding the valence on. Even he was saying "GOOD GOD!" LOL. Then helped me by holding in the lock nuts with a wrench while I PUSHED on the top and got in the Allen Bolts TOIGHT LIKE A TOIGER! Thanks to Jim from Downey Off road, too... LOVE it, Jim..and MISS YOUR COMPANY! Start up in Tax Free Texas, please? Maybe? hahaha.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

very clean 1st gen, chef... one of my favorites...
you need to gt rid of those warn hubs tho! go to the junkyard, get a set of Aisin hubs, and use THIS to rebuild them...

irab88

iTrader: (4)

it's....it's....so clean....

nicely done :applause:

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, T! Yeah, these Warns are brand new, and they are the metal ones... not plastic like some I've seen. I KNOW, they're not as good.. I got em before I ever even signed on to Yotatech... so hopefully ppl will give me a pass? lol... But actually, a buddy is giving me a set of Manual Stock Locking Hubs, shortly! I'll probably rebuild them... forgot to look at the link, is that what the link was? lol....

Thanks man! Appreciate it. I was gonna paint it REAL black, lol.... But I kinda like it! Think I'll see what Scoob and Rob and Jerry and the rest have to say, too, hahaha. Ordered the covers, today, wiring kit is on it's way, too. Gotta move my front plate down, too, GRRR, lol. It's LAW in CA. to be EASILY visible Front Plates. Ahhhhh, such an overbearing MOMMA state! lol.

xxxtreme22r

I have a spare set.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

chef, the 4runner looks good. Don't sweat the warn hubs i had them for like 6 years and never had a problem with them. Knowing what i know now i would have just rebuilt the original hubs and wound up in the same boat as you. I beat the tar out of mine and never had a problem.

xxxtreme22r

yeah next to the AISIN I think the warn heavy duty ones are the best.

Oh do those turn 1/4 or 7/8 to engage BTW?

Oh yeah bout dang time you grow the nuts to put that thing on yur bumper.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

7/8 as far as i remember. Really smooth. I used to use a pair of channel locks in the winter on my old aisans. I would have kept them given the chance to do it over again.

xxxtreme22r

yeah the 7/8 turn ones were 200X better than the 1/4's. I don't know if the toyota ones ever had the 1/4's though, this is just speaking from experience with my full size bronco.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

you're tellin' me! i got a 22rec, so i gotta worry about all this extra ca █████ too. and va also has front tags, same ███████ rule. but hey, we drive yotas, so it's not that bad...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Mouse, X,

Yeah, they're Premium Warn HD Hubs... They're all metal, Cover, dial, everything. They wanted quite a bit normally, but my buddy was at 4WheelParts in Compton(not far from me) and called me, saying, "Hey, you sick of those Auto Locking Hubs yet???"(he knew I'd been stuck a couple times cuz of them).... Well, I said, YESSSSSSS! lol. He said, "Well, GET DOWN HERE.... they have an open box, full warranty...My buddy is hooking you up.... and they're the GOOD ones, not their cheaper ones with the plastic dial, etc.. he said you can have them and the full kit for 80$.... WANT EM?" .....'Vrooooooom, vroooooooooooom, vrooooooom, .....skreeeeeeech!' YEP, I drove right down! lol. I will probably just drive em till they give me a problem. I did the whole hubs assembly, new bearings, rotors, replaced a missing wheel stud, new calipers, ...... just over a year ago.

I wish I knew then what I .....you know the story, lol. But they're on, so they'll have to do for now. I AM getting the set from my friend, though..... he doesn't need em.

PS> As I mentioned, I had the Auto Locking Hubs.... so at least I've upgraded in some way, right? lol.

PSS> OK, OK.... I get it, X! lol. I promise though.... it wasn't a matter of worry, just time. THE PLANETS ALIGNED, TODAY, and my neighbor could help, etc. Good day! lol.

PSSs(AKA PMS)> YES, CA. SUCKS when it comes to mandates, fees, STUPID laws, taxes... OH WELL, .... I Just love the place so much that I can't leave. Hopefully, some day, it will turn around... If not, I'M MOVING in around 5-8 Years, when I start up a certain business... NO WAY I'm opening a business in this state! MOST unfriendly to business in the country,.... so says almost every RESPECTED Business Source! hahaha.

yotarob2005

Mark, as far as the low pro bump stops go, my take on it is that yes they can allow the supension to droop more and put the CV joints in danger of binding, however that is the easiest way to get extra travel. In stock form your truck can (or should anyway) be able to travel from bump stop to bump stop. Adding things that are supposed to increase travel, without modifying the bump stops will only get you so much because they will only travel as far as the bump stops will allow. I personally am not too worried about it since 1) my truck is not a daily driver 2) during regular driving and 95% of the time you are wheeling you are not going to cycle the suspension far enough for it too matter. 3) When you know you are cycling the suspension far enough to potentially bind the CV's just use caution and manuver slow and easy. 4) CV's are cheap (sorta) and easy enough to change, I even carry a spare while wheeling.

Go ahead und do the diff drop as it will help to limit CV binding with low pro stops.

Man that front light bar looks AWESOME!!

xxxtreme22r

by adding the BJ spacers and cranking on the torsion bars, isn't he actually adding to the travel by spreading apart the distance between the bump stops? Therefore adding to the suspension travel?

yotarob2005

BJ spacers yes, I wasn't thinking about them (oopps), I was talking about the Mega travel BJ's he has. Cranking the T-bars will not right? Seems that with the BJ spacers though, my control arms are closer to the lower stop & futher from the upper stop. No matter what I do, I cannot seem to get enough compression to get onto the upper stop, leaving my total travel range about the same, like the BJ spacers just relocated the travel range. Compression travel will be even harder to get with cranked T-bars. I honestly believe on my set up that the only way I can get more travel is by lowering the lower stop.

Thanks for catching my mistake XXX I will edit my above post.

xxxtreme22r

hmmm kinda confused, too early in the morning yet, got to think about this one for a bit, got to remember the lower stop is for stuffage and the upper stop is for droop. When adding BJ' spacers your adding to the distance from the upper stop to control arm. Therefore adding more droop. Now when you crank on the torsion bar your basically moving that whole thing. If your cranking "up" adding tension to the torsion bar your basically moving the entire truck up meaning less distance between the upper stop and more distance between the lower stop. Meaning less droop and more stuffage. However this is only to a point. The further you crank the torsions the more it is gonna push up on the corner therefore making it harder to hit the lower stop. It will hit, just gonna take a harder hit to do so. When crawling your probably not gonna hit the lower (stuffage stop)

SO I guess there is a fine line when dealing with cranking the torsion bars and how much lift you can get when still maintaining as much usable travel in the suspension.

I hope that doesn't confuse things more. Gonna read this back in a while to make sure my current thought process is correct. I haven't had enough coffee yet. haha.

yotarob2005

Me either, more coffee needed. I am thinking that the upper stop is for compression & the lower for droop. Maybe I am confusing myself, I'm gonna run home and look at my trucjks bump stopd before I get myself any more confused. I do know for sure that I have my T-bars as relaxed as possible to still get the lock nut on the end of the adjuster, and with my BJ spacers, I have very limited droop, and lots of compression that I can't use, LOL

xxxtreme22r

gonna use vital22re's photo here a second cus it's a good shot of the stop. notice lower stop almost hit on stuffage.



and now for the upper stop which is faced in the opposite direction under the upper control arm. notice the need to add the shims to lower the distance between the stop and upper control arm that is added by putting the spacers in. This is when at full droop the CV's don't bind.
Note: shims are mostly only added if low profile stops have been used.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

X, Rob, THANK YOU! Great pics, X, thanks, and thanks to Vitale! Dang, there REALLY IS a lot of variables in this... But when it's broken down simply... You want this?.... have to do that, but be careful.

As Rob said, mine is my DD, but I DO wheel pretty deep into the woods and often run into situations,that I need a lil more stuff and droop....Just NOT TRYING TO FIND IT ALL DAY like a crawlin monster, lol.. )..

I'm just going to turn this into a 'back and forth' between guys that 'ARE IN THE KNOW', hahaha. Not trying to over think anything.... I'm actually LEARNING A LOT! Thanks, X, Rob, Aaron, EVERYONE!

One thing for sure... I WANT to even out the rake. I need to know a couple things that I can't seem to find a solid answer on...

What is the difference in height on a 1st Gen runner, from rear well to well and front well to well. Right now, I have 12.25" well to well in the rear. 13.25" or so well to well in the front. That CAN NOT be right, ...right? I'm guessing 14.75 would even me out, pretty much. It could be more like 15.25"(Roger, 4Crawler told me that his is level and it's a 3" difference"... ??? )... But I could live with an inch off rather than 2" shy! lol. Know what I mean? IF yours is level, Rob(sure looks it to me!)... could you tell me the difference in height from wheel top to wheel well in front and rear?

And, once I know that, I guess I would just ask;

What would YOU DO if you wanted 1.5" of height and then to maximize a balance of performance and limiting danger of destroying things, while also smoothing out things with new shocks and stabilizer?

Please, EVERYONE, feel free to answer.... For now, I will just add what I'm getting from all this and planning, so far;

1. BJ Spacers, AND, Upper and lower BJ's(mine are questionable anyhow-one is toast, and I want to 'redo' my front end a bit, anyhow)

2. Diff Drop(Lots of conflicting opinions on this)

3. New Shocks(have a line on them) and Stabilizer

4. IF I do new Bump stops, possibly lower profile, be sure to have PLENTY of shims around so I can test for 'binding' and then adjust until I find it 'bind free' at full droop and full uptravel.

5. IF I find cracking or any visible damage to A-Arm bushings, then use buddies A-Arms being given to me from his 87 and press out old and press in new bushings(have a line on them for 90$ for all four, Japanese)

6. Drop back down to ground, drive around to let things settle. Then, take precision measurements and adjust torsion bars till both sides are identical in height, top of rim to top of well.

7. Have a quality 4x4 shop(have one) do a proper alignment.

8. DRINK LESS COFFEE BEFORE TACKLING THE MAKING OF PLANS FOR IFS MOD'S/ADJUSTMENTS!

xxxtreme22r

with the diff drop I think your gonna have to put the BJ spacers in and go from there to see if they bind. Sorry can't help you out with the ride hieght yet, there is a thread going right now about without any solid evidence lol. I had started one as well trying to compare the 84-85 and the 86-88 ride heights as well and I turned into an SAS vs IFS ride height discussion. Probably because noone knows what the real height of these things are supposed to be. Not because we don't know maybe but more of we don't care, it needs new leafs, doing an SAS etc etc anyway so why care type thing. Which is understandable for the most part.