ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
11-02-2010, 12:05 PM
#681
Yeah, and I'd like to watch the cabbage as much as possible, at least for now, ya know? Another 150$ on top of the rest, for something that I don't really need as much as the drop kit(which I don't technically NEED, but would like to avoid issues by doing, ya know?).
Diff and Sway drop should increase flex and reduce taxing my CV's too much, right?
So, so far, I'm looking at;
1. Install new BJ's, upper and lower(Mega Travel Top and HD lower, Factory--Sankei, I believe...555's)
2. Install Diff and Sway drop
3. Install new shocks, most likely the Fox 2.0's that I will get for, I believe he said 100$ for the pair.... THANKS, ROB C.!
4. Replace any bushings, including A-Arm Bshngs., that might be toast.
5. Install lunchbox locker in the rear(I'm not in need of a MONSTER AIR LOCKER, lol... Plus, again, mainly.... the cost and time involved in that.
6. Alignment MANDITORY! lol....
Sound good?
Diff and Sway drop should increase flex and reduce taxing my CV's too much, right?
So, so far, I'm looking at;
1. Install new BJ's, upper and lower(Mega Travel Top and HD lower, Factory--Sankei, I believe...555's)
2. Install Diff and Sway drop
3. Install new shocks, most likely the Fox 2.0's that I will get for, I believe he said 100$ for the pair.... THANKS, ROB C.!
4. Replace any bushings, including A-Arm Bshngs., that might be toast.
5. Install lunchbox locker in the rear(I'm not in need of a MONSTER AIR LOCKER, lol... Plus, again, mainly.... the cost and time involved in that.
6. Alignment MANDITORY! lol....
Sound good?
11-04-2010, 01:12 PM
#682
Curious whatcha all thought of or know of this stuff? I've had GREAT results using their Gear Oil Products, .... Just curious about this stuff. Picked it up for 50% off at my buddy's parts store, and figured, why not, I'll ask the extended family what they think, haha. ....
Since I have a new 22re(pretty much), I figured I'd check into this stuff before putting it in.... if it's even necessary...(and could it harm things, etc., lol).
Since I have a new 22re(pretty much), I figured I'd check into this stuff before putting it in.... if it's even necessary...(and could it harm things, etc., lol).
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 11-04-2010 at 01:14 PM.
11-04-2010, 02:51 PM
#683
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well mark you do have one of the nicer trucks i have seen. clean,real clean ! I just picked up a 85 was going to do a yellow with your stripes like yours but it will stay light gray primer till spring. on the bj spacers the diff drop is a must also do not forget to shimm the bump stops . you will want to pay attention to the right side (Passenger) with the suspension drooping and frame lifted you will notice the right side axle will bind shim bump stop untill it is smooth . I ruined a new set of axles because I did not put diff drop and shims in at first.
Ps your truck gave me the itch to do the 85 we just finished the lift and pulled the motor I will watch those bolts and sealant.
Ps your truck gave me the itch to do the 85 we just finished the lift and pulled the motor I will watch those bolts and sealant.
11-04-2010, 03:49 PM
#684
well mark you do have one of the nicer trucks i have seen. clean,real clean ! I just picked up a 85 was going to do a yellow with your stripes like yours but it will stay light gray primer till spring. on the bj spacers the diff drop is a must also do not forget to shimm the bump stops . you will want to pay attention to the right side (Passenger) with the suspension drooping and frame lifted you will notice the right side axle will bind shim bump stop untill it is smooth . I ruined a new set of axles because I did not put diff drop and shims in at first.
Ps your truck gave me the itch to do the 85 we just finished the lift and pulled the motor I will watch those bolts and sealant.
Ps your truck gave me the itch to do the 85 we just finished the lift and pulled the motor I will watch those bolts and sealant.
Yeah, thanx on the other stuff regarding the suspension. I forgot to mention(or did I mention it?...forgot, lol)... the Bump stops. I think I did in the first post about this stuff. I found a couple places with them for the IFS low profile stops. Yes, that's a must for more travel and avoiding the potential CARNAGE! lol. I'm working out a trade right now for my used BFG's, so I might have this done sooner than I'd thought!
Best wishes with the rig, Mike! Are there pics of it somewhere? or a thread?
11-04-2010, 10:51 PM
#687
Well, I surface prepped and painted my Downey Grill/Bumper Guard tonight.... Had to make 2 trips out there while cleaning up after dinner, lol. I used "Hammered Rustoleum, BLACK"....and it aint black. I guess I should have researched it more...but it's actually ok, ... Looks like Gunmetal Gray or something? Anyway, lol... I'll probably repaint over it with Black Spray Can, just to get it, well, black, lol. Maybe this will look fine, we'll see. They had silver, too... and I went with black because of the "match your trim" comments... which I agree with. So we'll see what I can do... Anyway, here it is... It SURELY looks better than white, I know that much! hahaha.
11-05-2010, 01:07 AM
#688
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shimming the bump stops actually gives less travel. After putting spacers in and all back together with frame on jackstands and hub, spindle just hanging, turn hub you will probablly notice that right side is binding . put a jack under lower balljoint and slowly jack up until you can turn axle freely then add washers under bumpstops so control arm can not go any lower than this point
11-05-2010, 04:25 AM
#689
Registered User
Light bar looks good Mark! I like the texture of that hammertone paint even though I know it doesn't really come out black. Maybe a quick top coat of black rattle can would keep the texture?
On the bump stop issue I think you need to get the BJ spacers and diff drop on and test for binding like mfwimg82 says, but you don't want to shim them more than you have too because it will limit travel.
On the bump stop issue I think you need to get the BJ spacers and diff drop on and test for binding like mfwimg82 says, but you don't want to shim them more than you have too because it will limit travel.
11-05-2010, 08:15 AM
#690
for reference when i ran bj spacers no diff drop needed but i used only toyota cv axles. I didn't even do the bump stop spacers. For what it's worth get the spacers and see what you got going on. then get the diff drop if needed. If you need to go from there but honestly you don't need to crank muck lift out of them. here's a pic of mine installed.
as you can see the angles are not that bad. They never bound up on me even a t full droop. i only got to wheel them twice before the truck met it's demise but it ran well and i had no problems. Those are 33x12.50 and the front steering was new as well. For me the major difference was 1. the toyota cv's 2. fresh steering components (along with a stabilizer) 3. not cranking much lift (only 1-1.5"). The truck rode smooth and handled really well on and off road. As you can see there's no diff drop and no spacers for the bump stops. If you set this suspension up right (what i consider right) there is no need for all the extra stuff. Remember lift as little as possible to accomplish you goals. Another note to reflect upon when thinking about this type of lift is if you get the diff drop without modification you will not be able to install a cross member brace for the front. This was a big deciding factor for me when it came to the whole "do i need the diff drop" thought process. If you can't get the cross member brace getting a skid plate to mount up is tough as well. Sorry for the long post but i thought i'd shed some light on the subject for ya on how i approached it. I also ran the stock torsion bars and this truck rode smooth for a yota.
as you can see the angles are not that bad. They never bound up on me even a t full droop. i only got to wheel them twice before the truck met it's demise but it ran well and i had no problems. Those are 33x12.50 and the front steering was new as well. For me the major difference was 1. the toyota cv's 2. fresh steering components (along with a stabilizer) 3. not cranking much lift (only 1-1.5"). The truck rode smooth and handled really well on and off road. As you can see there's no diff drop and no spacers for the bump stops. If you set this suspension up right (what i consider right) there is no need for all the extra stuff. Remember lift as little as possible to accomplish you goals. Another note to reflect upon when thinking about this type of lift is if you get the diff drop without modification you will not be able to install a cross member brace for the front. This was a big deciding factor for me when it came to the whole "do i need the diff drop" thought process. If you can't get the cross member brace getting a skid plate to mount up is tough as well. Sorry for the long post but i thought i'd shed some light on the subject for ya on how i approached it. I also ran the stock torsion bars and this truck rode smooth for a yota.
11-05-2010, 11:27 AM
#693
Mike, Rob, Aaron, Irab, Outsane... AWESOME! Thanks, guys, ...I'm really wanting to get My 'Ruby' to 'THAT POINT', so I can just go wheel it and take a couple winter trips, etc.... and, well, it's not that I'm incapable, ......it's just that, to be honest, I KNOW VERY LITTLE about Suspension Stuff's! lol.
Mike, I'll be looking into that, MUCH MORE...For the info- THANKS!
Rob, U2! You're always so helpful, thanks alot, man!
Aaron, HOLY MACKEREL, don't you dare apologize! That's GREAT, and very useful!(I will have to ask a few stupid questions, ...so WARNING, NOW! lol)
Irab, Outsane; THANK YOU, GUYS!..... I've come a long way, but still have MANY more plans for practical mods, including adding Aux. power to the rear seat area behind the console, Switch for the rear window INSIDE the Cargo Area(so I can lower the window w/out getting out! lol.)...I even have a Factory Window Switch(THANKS ROB2TECH!!!) to mount by the rear gate!...Fixing my 'heater issue', solving my mileage issue, etc., etc., etc.....
OK, so, answering a couple things....
To start, a very important reminder or 2;
1. I am ONLY lifting the front 1.5" to level her out. It's 13" in BOTH the front and rear right now, from top of wheel well to top of fender well.... 1.5" Spacers should do it without ANY Torsion Bar Cranking.
2. I know adding droop can be far more tricky than adding up-travel. I have the Mega Travel Downey HD BJ's.... and Jim, Downey Owner, said, "Diff drop is NOT needed, and it can limit other add ons. Only might want to consider some Low Pro Bump Stops, but BE CAREFUL". So, therein lies my up and coming 'stupid questions', lol. I'll get to that.
**************
Long and short;
I have some rake and I KNOW that my IFS components are TIRED! lol. I'm assuming that two of the most important components to change are the BJ's. I have the uppers, need the lowers.
So, now I have to decide whether I need all this extra stuff or niet, right mouse, guys?
Stock well to well in rear is 12" I believe, and front well to well is 13.5"? I think that's the diff... the front is cut out higher... I'll measure and see what would be perfectly level, and also, just what the diff is by measuring from the 'body line' that runs along the whole side.
I'd like to just do the BJ spacers, and wondered, mostly; If I'm only going to raise the front 1.5" from stock.. How far exactly do I have to go with all the drop kits, etc. I'm guessing, mouse, that you're saying "Just do the Upper and lower Bj's, Bj spacers(1.5") and you wont need torsion bar crank for that, so you should be ok." Right? (Would it be wise to do the Control Arm Bushings, now?)
I'm going to read through it all again, Mouse, and post up what my plan should be, then see what you guys think!
Thanks again, guys, and have a GREAT WEEKEND!
Mike, I'll be looking into that, MUCH MORE...For the info- THANKS!
Rob, U2! You're always so helpful, thanks alot, man!
Aaron, HOLY MACKEREL, don't you dare apologize! That's GREAT, and very useful!(I will have to ask a few stupid questions, ...so WARNING, NOW! lol)
Irab, Outsane; THANK YOU, GUYS!..... I've come a long way, but still have MANY more plans for practical mods, including adding Aux. power to the rear seat area behind the console, Switch for the rear window INSIDE the Cargo Area(so I can lower the window w/out getting out! lol.)...I even have a Factory Window Switch(THANKS ROB2TECH!!!) to mount by the rear gate!...Fixing my 'heater issue', solving my mileage issue, etc., etc., etc.....
OK, so, answering a couple things....
To start, a very important reminder or 2;
1. I am ONLY lifting the front 1.5" to level her out. It's 13" in BOTH the front and rear right now, from top of wheel well to top of fender well.... 1.5" Spacers should do it without ANY Torsion Bar Cranking.
2. I know adding droop can be far more tricky than adding up-travel. I have the Mega Travel Downey HD BJ's.... and Jim, Downey Owner, said, "Diff drop is NOT needed, and it can limit other add ons. Only might want to consider some Low Pro Bump Stops, but BE CAREFUL". So, therein lies my up and coming 'stupid questions', lol. I'll get to that.
**************
Long and short;
I have some rake and I KNOW that my IFS components are TIRED! lol. I'm assuming that two of the most important components to change are the BJ's. I have the uppers, need the lowers.
So, now I have to decide whether I need all this extra stuff or niet, right mouse, guys?
Stock well to well in rear is 12" I believe, and front well to well is 13.5"? I think that's the diff... the front is cut out higher... I'll measure and see what would be perfectly level, and also, just what the diff is by measuring from the 'body line' that runs along the whole side.
I'd like to just do the BJ spacers, and wondered, mostly; If I'm only going to raise the front 1.5" from stock.. How far exactly do I have to go with all the drop kits, etc. I'm guessing, mouse, that you're saying "Just do the Upper and lower Bj's, Bj spacers(1.5") and you wont need torsion bar crank for that, so you should be ok." Right? (Would it be wise to do the Control Arm Bushings, now?)
I'm going to read through it all again, Mouse, and post up what my plan should be, then see what you guys think!
Thanks again, guys, and have a GREAT WEEKEND!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 11-05-2010 at 11:34 AM.
11-05-2010, 11:42 AM
#694
A. not in my opinion but you'll know after you install it. The only time you'll really run into problems is in 4wd and letting the suspension do it's thing. so your rig will not be incapasitated to dd if the axles do bind.
B. The toyota cv's are far superior IMO so get em you will not regret it. Most likely will alleviate any binding problems you might have as well so in theory they pay for themselves by eliminating the need for other parts.
C. why not couldn't hurt and if i had the opportunity i would do it.
D. The bump stops can be modified with washers if needed but like you see in my pic i didn't need em. Bump stops can be done in your drive way with minimal tools and no lift. I'm not familiar with the mega travel ball joints i just replaced them with new ones when i did the install. (actually my toyota guy did the install wanted it right the first time and didn't have time to waste) read this for shock size and install pics https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...riteup-201297/
Any more q's hit me up i'll help with what i can.
B. The toyota cv's are far superior IMO so get em you will not regret it. Most likely will alleviate any binding problems you might have as well so in theory they pay for themselves by eliminating the need for other parts.
C. why not couldn't hurt and if i had the opportunity i would do it.
D. The bump stops can be modified with washers if needed but like you see in my pic i didn't need em. Bump stops can be done in your drive way with minimal tools and no lift. I'm not familiar with the mega travel ball joints i just replaced them with new ones when i did the install. (actually my toyota guy did the install wanted it right the first time and didn't have time to waste) read this for shock size and install pics https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...riteup-201297/
Any more q's hit me up i'll help with what i can.
11-05-2010, 11:46 AM
#695
usually the problems occur with this lift is when people try to get more out of it than it's capable of doing I.E. lifting it too much. So start small with the lift and you'll run into fewer problems. Oh yeah go ahead if you have yet to do so and get new hard ware for the torsion bars and their adjusters. If they have yet to be adjusted and anti seized you'll want that hardware around just in case you snap one of those puppies. Plus it'll be nice to replace them when you have the truck up in the air it makes it easier to adjust the height later.
11-05-2010, 11:57 AM
#696
Hey Mouse... DANGIT, I'm sorry for editing my post! GRRRR! 'HIT'S SELF IN HEAD WITH COFFEE MUG!' hahaha.
I tried to shorten it up, and DANGIT if I didn't make you look crazy, eh? lol....
I can't remember what each of those were. Could you explain while it's fresh?
And lastly, ..... Am I going to need to mess with the Torsion Bars, even though I'm not torquing on them at all for height?(Do they need to be adjusted to get it 'JUST RIGHT'? Or are you speaking as to if I DO torque on them for some lift?)
I tried to shorten it up, and DANGIT if I didn't make you look crazy, eh? lol....
I can't remember what each of those were. Could you explain while it's fresh?
And lastly, ..... Am I going to need to mess with the Torsion Bars, even though I'm not torquing on them at all for height?(Do they need to be adjusted to get it 'JUST RIGHT'? Or are you speaking as to if I DO torque on them for some lift?)
11-05-2010, 12:20 PM
#698
this will be if i was i your shoes situation and i will "advise" from there. By no means is this gospel but what i have derived from researching this mod for a couple years before i actually installed it.
Ball joint spacer lift IMO is good until you try to get too much out of it. 1-1.5" is perfect or even less than that. Any thing more is going to create problems eventually. If it was me install the bj spacer lift with new oe ball joints upper and lowers if needed. The downey units are probably good but i have no experience with them and how they'll react with the spacers and if they will or will not create a problem. So to get rid of that factor i'd replace with oe ball joints and be done with it. (too much travel from the ball joints might create binding issues with the cv's but i don't know for sure). You will need to adjust the torsion bars eventually and most likely for this install so yeah that will be addressed. On the subject of the bushings if it was me and i dug into this with the opportunity of making the bushings nice and soft and quiet i would do it but be warned i hear they're tough to replace. With the difficulty of the bushings being a factor i'd pay some one to do it and avoid the headache but that's just me. I skipped that step on my rig and never noticed any difference. So ask yourself do the bushings make a lot of noise? if they do replace if not i'd leave em unless you have the time to do it. On the subject of the cv;s seriously just get the toyota units you'll be happy you did and save money and time in the long run. I'm sure there are guys that'll tell you the cheapo ones are fine but in my experience they're not and you'll end up with problems. I've replaced several cheapo cv's and absolutly no toyota cv's if that's any idea to what they're worth. At full droop the toyota cv's didn't bind and were perfect when wheeling the truck. As i was saying in the other post just install the lift and see where you sit. the vehicle will be fine if it binds when in 4wd untill you fix the diff with a drop (i doubt it will) and the 4runner will not be incapacitated as well if the cv's bind at full droop. Down side is you kinda can't wheel it until you fix the binding issue. You can see the angles i was dealing with and the cxv's are in great shape off and on road. Didn't need bump stop spacers, diff drops, or long travel ball joints.
But to be honest chef try this first. Go get the hard ware for the torsion bars (as backup) read this http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/torsion_bars/
and this http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...ent-19258.html and adjust your ride height first. You might not even need spacers to get what you need. If it's only a little height your looking for trey this it's praticaly free.
i gotta go to work hope this helps!
Ball joint spacer lift IMO is good until you try to get too much out of it. 1-1.5" is perfect or even less than that. Any thing more is going to create problems eventually. If it was me install the bj spacer lift with new oe ball joints upper and lowers if needed. The downey units are probably good but i have no experience with them and how they'll react with the spacers and if they will or will not create a problem. So to get rid of that factor i'd replace with oe ball joints and be done with it. (too much travel from the ball joints might create binding issues with the cv's but i don't know for sure). You will need to adjust the torsion bars eventually and most likely for this install so yeah that will be addressed. On the subject of the bushings if it was me and i dug into this with the opportunity of making the bushings nice and soft and quiet i would do it but be warned i hear they're tough to replace. With the difficulty of the bushings being a factor i'd pay some one to do it and avoid the headache but that's just me. I skipped that step on my rig and never noticed any difference. So ask yourself do the bushings make a lot of noise? if they do replace if not i'd leave em unless you have the time to do it. On the subject of the cv;s seriously just get the toyota units you'll be happy you did and save money and time in the long run. I'm sure there are guys that'll tell you the cheapo ones are fine but in my experience they're not and you'll end up with problems. I've replaced several cheapo cv's and absolutly no toyota cv's if that's any idea to what they're worth. At full droop the toyota cv's didn't bind and were perfect when wheeling the truck. As i was saying in the other post just install the lift and see where you sit. the vehicle will be fine if it binds when in 4wd untill you fix the diff with a drop (i doubt it will) and the 4runner will not be incapacitated as well if the cv's bind at full droop. Down side is you kinda can't wheel it until you fix the binding issue. You can see the angles i was dealing with and the cxv's are in great shape off and on road. Didn't need bump stop spacers, diff drops, or long travel ball joints.
But to be honest chef try this first. Go get the hard ware for the torsion bars (as backup) read this http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/torsion_bars/
and this http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...ent-19258.html and adjust your ride height first. You might not even need spacers to get what you need. If it's only a little height your looking for trey this it's praticaly free.
i gotta go to work hope this helps!
11-05-2010, 12:43 PM
#700
Helps LOTS! thanks, Mouse!
Yeah, the mega Travel ARE OEM BJ's that Jim of Downey designed with Toyota Technicians that would visit his shop. They are ONLY to provide Up travel... not droop. They are also very heavy duty as they've been machined with 'lasting' in mind. From what he told me, ... With the mega travel bj's, I'll get around 11" of travel, rather than 5-6" of travel, which is stock. The stuff I do is not crawlin stuff....but I do get in spots where I need traction and can't get it because of maxing out on up travel......... (Are the CV's safe, if I only do the upper mega travels and don't mess with much else other than stock,other than maybe a lil longer shock if needed?)
Far as the CV's go.... I have no idea if mine need to be replaced or not. Are you saying "I should, no matter what, replace them while in there">?? Or just inspect them and go?
Far as the Bump stops, .... I'm just going off what someone told me(You know, many different opinions)... Where I was told that going with Low Pro Bump stops would be necessary to increase droop or uptravel...>>>>>>>>>>? ? ? ? I would rather leave them alone, if possible. And, I DON'T NEED Baja 1000 IFS... I just thought it would be good to increase uptravel a lil bit, if possible, without causing any binding or damage.
I WILL get the hardware, ASAP! The only thing, though... Most people have told me "DO NOT tighten your Torsion bars if you don't have to.... the comfort of ride will get really rough anything over .5". "
Far as the A-Arm bushings, ..I'll be doing this all on a lift in a nice shop... And, I think the shop also has a bearing/bushing press, to get the old ones out and new ones in. My buddy, who can use this shop, will be there, helping me, and he said, "You can have my A-Arms, because I'm using my new FAB'd long travel arms.... You could clean and paint them that way and get the bushings in before we slap it back together, much easier, while we're in there." ..... So, if I do the A-arm bushings, I'll grab the donors from my buddy and just fix those and slap em in.
PS> My CV's are original, from what I know.
PSS> I don't hear a LOT of noise, at all, really. Only time is when I hit bumps in parking lots, or off roading, ya know? "KERPLUNK" type stuff, as if the stuff's in there are bottoming out on the bump stops before the tires hit the ground, possibly, partly, because my SHOCKS ARE ORIGINAL OR AT LEAST 160k MILES OLD! lol.
Thanks, guys,....I'll do more research and check back!
Mark
Yeah, the mega Travel ARE OEM BJ's that Jim of Downey designed with Toyota Technicians that would visit his shop. They are ONLY to provide Up travel... not droop. They are also very heavy duty as they've been machined with 'lasting' in mind. From what he told me, ... With the mega travel bj's, I'll get around 11" of travel, rather than 5-6" of travel, which is stock. The stuff I do is not crawlin stuff....but I do get in spots where I need traction and can't get it because of maxing out on up travel......... (Are the CV's safe, if I only do the upper mega travels and don't mess with much else other than stock,other than maybe a lil longer shock if needed?)
Far as the CV's go.... I have no idea if mine need to be replaced or not. Are you saying "I should, no matter what, replace them while in there">?? Or just inspect them and go?
Far as the Bump stops, .... I'm just going off what someone told me(You know, many different opinions)... Where I was told that going with Low Pro Bump stops would be necessary to increase droop or uptravel...>>>>>>>>>>? ? ? ? I would rather leave them alone, if possible. And, I DON'T NEED Baja 1000 IFS... I just thought it would be good to increase uptravel a lil bit, if possible, without causing any binding or damage.
I WILL get the hardware, ASAP! The only thing, though... Most people have told me "DO NOT tighten your Torsion bars if you don't have to.... the comfort of ride will get really rough anything over .5". "
Far as the A-Arm bushings, ..I'll be doing this all on a lift in a nice shop... And, I think the shop also has a bearing/bushing press, to get the old ones out and new ones in. My buddy, who can use this shop, will be there, helping me, and he said, "You can have my A-Arms, because I'm using my new FAB'd long travel arms.... You could clean and paint them that way and get the bushings in before we slap it back together, much easier, while we're in there." ..... So, if I do the A-arm bushings, I'll grab the donors from my buddy and just fix those and slap em in.
PS> My CV's are original, from what I know.
PSS> I don't hear a LOT of noise, at all, really. Only time is when I hit bumps in parking lots, or off roading, ya know? "KERPLUNK" type stuff, as if the stuff's in there are bottoming out on the bump stops before the tires hit the ground, possibly, partly, because my SHOCKS ARE ORIGINAL OR AT LEAST 160k MILES OLD! lol.
Thanks, guys,....I'll do more research and check back!
Mark
