ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
07-03-2013, 11:27 AM
#6942
Registered User
07-03-2013, 11:44 AM
#6943
Ahhhhhhh! Lol. ...The guy with the LED rock light strings got back to me FAST!..... I like that! Too bad I got impulsive,......but at least I now have a working link.......
http://www.horsepowerjuice.com/led-lights.html
.........and if the XkGlow give me issues, I will know where to go. They are far more compact, which I like....BUT, I like having a remote and aluminum mounting brackets that allow me to mount the bracket vertical and then have the light facing down. This will help on the frame rail and also inside the wheel wells... You'll see. It's such a good price that horse power juice might just get my business anyway. I definitely can't run both kits, because while they are low voltage, they are unfortunately not no voltage. Lol. So I will try the ones out that I ordered and see what I think and if they suck I will return them within the time allowed. I do have to say that XKglow comes with quite an extensive kit for a pretty reasonable price. I know what DZ is talking about in regards to the light having limitations of angle of beam.... One idea I had was to modify the Volkswagen interior lights on I have and make them waterproof... They're very small and slim and hold a 36 millimeter festoon. Can you imagine a 12 LED festoon cube type inside of a reflector housing? Just the 4 lighted flat panel festoon bulbs that I have in my interior are mind blowingly bright!
I have a buddy that has a pretty famous electronic store near me that said he would help me come up with something regarding Auto Lighting anytime I want. It might be fun just to try it out. Something I can do on my own time for limited funds. He has Cree and SMD and SMT bulbs and the lot at his shop. He also has strips which I've been told are fantastic but cannot stand the impact at all.
Another idea I had was to use the type that Richard and I got from the yards, but modifying it to pretty much eliminate the housing and wind up cord... Only keeping the wiring. The ones I'm talking about are the GM engine bay light. Just the light housing itself is not that large and could be used to house a incredibly bright 360 degree angle tower bulb. One of them in the rear alone would be sufficient light to light up the entire ground and rear tires and axle. The problem is each bulb is $20. But wow!... Talk about sufficient lighting! I guess for around $80 in bulbs, then pilfering a few chords with light housings from the yard, then setting up a switch... That would be pretty sick. Another problem though would be that you really want light inside your wheel well or at least right in front or behind it. The whole point is to prevent Rock damage to your knuckles or rotors or axle or any number of undercarriage Parts. Hers the link to the bulb... Okay I was wrong, they're $25 each for the 1156! Haha. ...
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...led-tower/526/
Like I said, gotta work on the clearance a little bit...: Fortunately with my dual cases, I also got a beasty/low pro plate cross member..... So I've begun to work on the clearance a little bit. I just really don't want to clock my cases(for more clearance) or anything that dramatic unless it's absolutely necessary. That requires again another drive to the drive line shop to alter the shafts and so forth.... It changes a few things beyond just that.
Anyway, I should be pretty good from here, but I actually have a buddy with a secondary 17 gallon flat belly fuel tank that might be interested in giving me a killer deal..... So well I have been looking into and armor box type storage where my spare tire goes... I'm actually thinking about doing another fuel tank. I don't think I will need it as long as I have adequate jerry cans... But I atleast want to look into it. I reallllly love what RBX did with the spare tire area..... We'll see.
http://www.horsepowerjuice.com/led-lights.html
.........and if the XkGlow give me issues, I will know where to go. They are far more compact, which I like....BUT, I like having a remote and aluminum mounting brackets that allow me to mount the bracket vertical and then have the light facing down. This will help on the frame rail and also inside the wheel wells... You'll see. It's such a good price that horse power juice might just get my business anyway. I definitely can't run both kits, because while they are low voltage, they are unfortunately not no voltage. Lol. So I will try the ones out that I ordered and see what I think and if they suck I will return them within the time allowed. I do have to say that XKglow comes with quite an extensive kit for a pretty reasonable price. I know what DZ is talking about in regards to the light having limitations of angle of beam.... One idea I had was to modify the Volkswagen interior lights on I have and make them waterproof... They're very small and slim and hold a 36 millimeter festoon. Can you imagine a 12 LED festoon cube type inside of a reflector housing? Just the 4 lighted flat panel festoon bulbs that I have in my interior are mind blowingly bright!
I have a buddy that has a pretty famous electronic store near me that said he would help me come up with something regarding Auto Lighting anytime I want. It might be fun just to try it out. Something I can do on my own time for limited funds. He has Cree and SMD and SMT bulbs and the lot at his shop. He also has strips which I've been told are fantastic but cannot stand the impact at all.
Another idea I had was to use the type that Richard and I got from the yards, but modifying it to pretty much eliminate the housing and wind up cord... Only keeping the wiring. The ones I'm talking about are the GM engine bay light. Just the light housing itself is not that large and could be used to house a incredibly bright 360 degree angle tower bulb. One of them in the rear alone would be sufficient light to light up the entire ground and rear tires and axle. The problem is each bulb is $20. But wow!... Talk about sufficient lighting! I guess for around $80 in bulbs, then pilfering a few chords with light housings from the yard, then setting up a switch... That would be pretty sick. Another problem though would be that you really want light inside your wheel well or at least right in front or behind it. The whole point is to prevent Rock damage to your knuckles or rotors or axle or any number of undercarriage Parts. Hers the link to the bulb... Okay I was wrong, they're $25 each for the 1156! Haha. ...
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...led-tower/526/
Like I said, gotta work on the clearance a little bit...: Fortunately with my dual cases, I also got a beasty/low pro plate cross member..... So I've begun to work on the clearance a little bit. I just really don't want to clock my cases(for more clearance) or anything that dramatic unless it's absolutely necessary. That requires again another drive to the drive line shop to alter the shafts and so forth.... It changes a few things beyond just that.
Anyway, I should be pretty good from here, but I actually have a buddy with a secondary 17 gallon flat belly fuel tank that might be interested in giving me a killer deal..... So well I have been looking into and armor box type storage where my spare tire goes... I'm actually thinking about doing another fuel tank. I don't think I will need it as long as I have adequate jerry cans... But I atleast want to look into it. I reallllly love what RBX did with the spare tire area..... We'll see.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-03-2013 at 12:05 PM.
07-03-2013, 01:38 PM
#6944
Registered User
Clocking the case will give you a little more then an inch of clearance, but because you have a reduced driveline angle should not impact the driveability. Infact, i cobbled together a front driveshaft from spares I had. Vibes a little. The rear I had to have built because of the smaller size of the R1FA and slight rear lift...OME.
What I'm saying is, you shouldn't need a new rear shaft and I doubt you would need a front also, unless it's already too short due to your SAS.
Check Pirate, they have a thread on to clock or not.
Last edited by RBX; 07-03-2013 at 01:39 PM.
07-03-2013, 02:06 PM
#6945
Hahahahaha... To clock or not to clock,... That is the question! Yeah I'm not sure I think that one of the problems was that my low pro skate place would not work if I clocked the cases. I think for now I will just leave it alone and we'll carefully but I know what you're saying about the drive line. I already have the front of you at Inland Empire Drivelines. They are integrating my Matsuba 10 inch shaft/yolk with a 96-04 Tacoma diff flange and joint that flexes quite a bit and resists binding. I was quite amazed at how much more they travel before binding.
The same shop will be doing the rear driveshaft and likely adding the 84-85 carden i found because of the increased angle and shortening, which hopefully it will reduce most of any vibration the could be created by such an angle. Adding a carden can make the now shorter rear shaft much more easy to balance?
Very impressed with everything you've done RB! I wish I had more time and more people to help me hands on with stuff that I'm not so experienced in yet. But then again that's what the site is for, and because of you and many others I've learned quite a bit!
The same shop will be doing the rear driveshaft and likely adding the 84-85 carden i found because of the increased angle and shortening, which hopefully it will reduce most of any vibration the could be created by such an angle. Adding a carden can make the now shorter rear shaft much more easy to balance?
Very impressed with everything you've done RB! I wish I had more time and more people to help me hands on with stuff that I'm not so experienced in yet. But then again that's what the site is for, and because of you and many others I've learned quite a bit!
07-03-2013, 02:28 PM
#6948
Yep, they all would, but this one is blocks from where my rig sits...and adding a caden goes a bit beyond keeping it balanced at higher speeds with the steeper angle it will now have. From what I have recently read, Toyota did just that in the front because stock it had more angle when it is shorter to the tcase.....low pinion....etc.
07-04-2013, 06:04 PM
#6950
Registered User
07-05-2013, 01:06 PM
#6953
Not sure. .... likely a group one just to be safe. I have plenty of armor and recovery equipment to do a solo trip... Just wanna break it in with Richard, my majority of wheeling/road dawg as of late.
I WILL be doing a trip to the Sierras this summer (richard might join me for part of that one as well)..... Probably over to the Sequoias from there.....Kern River/Lake Isabella/Kings Canyon.
Also gonna do a few day-trips to the Angeles Crest... Tons to do just 1 hour away!....plus WATER! Lol. ... I don't care as much for trips with no running water near by. Big Bear will be fun in that way.
First trip? Sounds like Big Bear,from what i can tell. If they give me coordinates, I may go ahead to make a mini vacation out of it....I NEED ONE, BAD!
I WILL be doing a trip to the Sierras this summer (richard might join me for part of that one as well)..... Probably over to the Sequoias from there.....Kern River/Lake Isabella/Kings Canyon.
Also gonna do a few day-trips to the Angeles Crest... Tons to do just 1 hour away!....plus WATER! Lol. ... I don't care as much for trips with no running water near by. Big Bear will be fun in that way.
First trip? Sounds like Big Bear,from what i can tell. If they give me coordinates, I may go ahead to make a mini vacation out of it....I NEED ONE, BAD!
07-05-2013, 01:12 PM
#6954
PS> I have to finish breaking in my gears as well. I'm somewhere around 350 miles at this point on the rear and by the time I bring it home I should be around 400. I want to hit the full 500 mark and drain and refill before I had any trips like that. Anything can happen and I want to be sure that I see no carnage or anything of the sort. I will also have to do some local breaking in the front and I will most likely put it on stands for some of that. I also would be breaking in new 4.7 gears in the transfer case and wearing the first grooves in the transfer case and transmission bearings and seals that I just had put in as well.(PYP trans is inspected, refreshed and already in the Ruby).
07-05-2013, 01:20 PM
#6955
Registered User
If you're gonna test out the rig Big Bear is definitely gonna be the place to do it at. You are definitely more than welcome to come along with us on our next trip out there or wherever it may be at.
07-05-2013, 02:54 PM
#6957
Registered User
Don't know if I'd be rushing to the sierras anytime soon unless you plan to stay up in the mts. We heard it was something like 110* in Bishop the other day!
07-05-2013, 03:59 PM
#6959
Registered User
That sounds horrible!
