Cyberhorn The Dragon

.........

RBX

NOOOOOOOOOO

Painting is proper prep, always, and never use water on steel unless you are using a rust converter. And if you have bare aluminium you must apply paint within minutes of cleaning to reduce flash oxidation.

Scuff all surfaces with scotch-brite pad or sand paper, if we were talking about paint finish this part might be a bit different.
Clean the surface with lint free clothes and acetone(keep this stuff off of your bare skin).
Next clean same surface with denatured alcohol, acetone leaves a residue, and the alcohol does not.
Now prime the surface using a SELF-ETCHING METAL PRIMER. NEVER EVER SKIP THE PRIMER STEP. Regular paint doesn't have the ability to bond to the bare metal, so a primer is necessary. Locate your local auto-body supply house, they carry this stuff.
To get a good bond between the primer and base, apply the color of choice while the primer is still tacky (not wet). Always apply the first coat of aerosol paint by fogging it on(so you just see a bunch of little dots. This will help promote adhesion and reduce the chance of fish-eye.
Let the stuff fully cure for a day or so before you handle it.

kelvinb

Prime and paint

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YOU ROCK! Thanx, RB! I thought I saw self etching primer at home depot... They have a HUGE selection of auto paint stuffs. Oroblem I can see is covering both sides... these are so heavy, but wud I hang em?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Yep hang em from the rafters, use a 2x4 between several if you need too I don't xpect they are THAT heavy. And Horizontally if you can get enough room, since it is the more natural movement for spraying. Definetly use a mounting hole if you can to run the hanger wires thru.

I'm ok with using water myself for rinsing and washing, but anything you put on even the degreaser(alcohol acetone whatever) needs wiped off with a clean dry rag before it has a chance to dry.

I'l also say scotch pads over sand paper for scuffing, much finer texture, no binder materials, no grit.

Chuckar

Mark I used the stuff in the pic on mine scotch-brite acetone and then a tack cloth and paint I did not finish paint because I mite get rid of the smittybilt bumpers and go with a addicted off-road front bumper and a trail gear rear bumper and paint them a different color hope this helps.





PS. I did not paint them untill they were welded on they were easy to paint on the truck

RBX

^^^ that's the same etcher I use, good stuff, but it won't hold up under UV.

RAD4Runner

Good tips. Thanks, RB!
Mark,
I've got almost 5 gallons of Isopropyl Alcohol I don't need , but not sure when I would be in the area. Anyway, I'll let you know when I'm driving by, in case you could still use it.

RBX

Isopropyl is not de-natured alcohol. Just sayin...

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

See you are getting alot done. Just trying to do a little catching up. I havent done a V6 caliper and dont recall a crush washer on the 4 cylinder caliper. Will be looking at what it was you were mentioning on that when you get a chance. I wonder if it is V6 only.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, I can't thank u enough for all the input.

I have and use denatured alcohol, acetone, self etching primer (I get it from my old hot rod custom painter buddy... Just had to be done with my Wagner) , and I use epoxy primer most often if the metal has been sanded, well, already. I have always had pretty good results with rustoleum primers.

Here are the sliders after the primers, then painted. I used acetone, wiped down, sanded, denatured alcohol and then tack cloth (love the stuff for any painting!). The100 grit emery cloth/metal sanding material by DuPont 3M is what I had, so thats what I used.... Stuff works great too. Didn't get any pics of the bare metal, but I did a thorough job, and man that metal is pretty hard stuff, lol.







I used my wagner and some black DuPont hard auto enamel, because I've 1. Had the hammered black really clog up my gun, and 2. It takes a LOT longer to dry than the DuPont hard enamel. .. and I have to be ready for socal85toyota on Saturday! WOOOOOOOT! Lol. I can always roll on the hammered like last time, but also, 3... all my trim is black, I just think it will blend in better... Sorry to disappoint on not using the Hammered Black. BTW> HAMMERED Black was reformulated, ..... its now more black, and the stuff I used before is now called "dark gray" hahahaha.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Really like the shine on the upper quarter section in the second picture. Has a really nice gunmetal look to it with the overhead light and flash. Great stuff sir, happy welding!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The paint laid down nicely. Great job. You sure there isnt a painter trapped inside of you? lol

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Since I had a lil time today, I simultaneously rebuilt/resealed the 95 V6 S13WB calipers, for my V6 full package brake upgrade........

First, crack the 4 bolts on each caliper with a 14mm hex 3/8" drive breaker bar, doing it inside of a plastic tray on towels to avoid splashing/too much mess(out the tasty on a bench as u will need substantial leverage! Lol)...



Next pull the boots and force air into the small hole on the end. ...



(For the second piston in, I put air through the opposite small hole well plugging the joining port in the hole of the piston I just removed)

The closest piston will come out like a bullet, lol. Terry is right about that one, Hahaha. I basically laid it flat and forced air in little bits, at 25# or so, until it flew straight up around 18", and I caught it in the cut out milk carton gallon I had ready. Hahaha, I know, the chemicals were getting to me! Lol. Jk. I use respirators with that nasty crap! As I do when painting! PLEASE USE ONE, GUYS, THESE THINGS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS RESPIRATORY AND NEUROLOGICAL DAMAGE! Some get much more evenly affected than others. .. So please, treat not the waters of "huffing"! Lol. First remove the outer boots/c-clips. Then: Forced out pistons.....



Then, I cleaned the caliper pistons using brake fluid and course steel wool, and then flushed them with brake cleaner. I then coated them with brake fluid, lightly, and set them aside while I pulled out the inner piston seals.



I then flushed out all of the ports with brake cleaner, then hitting them with brake fluid in the piston boars, using the steel wool, and then flushed them again with the brake cleaner. I wipe them down and then coat them in brake fluid.... Here they are all cleaned up.....



I then installed the main piston seals( the Toyota FSM procedure for installing the seals, including the boots, is to use lithium SOAP based grease. However, it appeared that the seals were already coated by the manufacturer. I guess they are thinking ahead now! Hahaha) .....



I then installed the lightly brake fluid coated pistons into the bores most of the way, but not all of the way. If you insert them all of the way you will have to force air again in order to get them to come back out a little bit, in order to get the boots on to the Pistons......



With the pistons nearly all of the way in, protruding at least enough to where the entire lip is outside of the Pistons hole , lightly coat the boot in brake fluid, very lightly, and then lightly Glide it around starting from either the top or the bottom, and making sure that the lip of the boot is in the lip Journal of the piston, properly. Then, install the boot retaining clip by holding 1 edge of the clip end with your fingernail then pulling against the other and with your fingernail while forcing it slowly on, all the way around....



Now, lightly coat the crush gasket, seal, in brake fluid, and place on either side of the 1 piece of the caliper kit. The side that is recessed obviously gets the crush gaskets, seals, but the threads to bolt both sides of the caliper together are also on that side. So, once you install those small seals, and once everything else is completely installed, place the other side of the caliper atop the one with the seals and begin to reinsert the 4 bolts...





All resealed like new, radiator to go for at least another 100,000 Plus miles! Woot! Lol. . Got quite a bit done today considering all the interruptions I had....

Cyberhorn The Dragon

paint looks excellent
nice walk through on the calipers mark

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

Getting close with the sliders, Yay!! Looking forward to those

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanx! Hope it encourages someone to go for it if they're needing an upgrade!

I have to add up threre, that the removing of the inner seals, it's easy if u slide a tooth pick down in/front of the seal, then pry it out.

ME TOO!!!! HAHAHA. They will be installed Saturday! O.O Hehe

Ur hubs will be to u very soon as well. Ready for use and any abuse u can throw at em! Lol....

HighLux

Paint looks awesome Chef. Also,,the innertube trick is great idea. I liked the video, and I encourage you to make more...would be sweet to have a "Chef's Toyota Recipe of the week" video. A "tasty" tidbit of Chef delivered toyota tips and tricks. You have a calm soothing voice. You would be a star for sure!!

Dave

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha, that totally cracked me up, and thanx for the props! I have actually done lots of videos, but plan to continue to do more.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Great write up on the calipers. Compared to getting new ones, the rebuild cost is alot less and more then likely alot better then the part store one you would get. Really nothing to them and the satisfaction of you doing it instead of just replacing it is a little reward in itself. You are right use LOW air pressure to get the pistons out. They will come out quick, fast, and in a hurry. Like was mentioned on Highluxs thread, this could get you some cuts as well. Sounds like we are all learning how to patch our selves back up.