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ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread

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Old 01-09-2013, 07:59 AM
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Just checking in man, looks like your still moving along. Hope the brake swap goes good its all bolt on stuff so you shouldn't have any issues. Hope all is well on the left coast.
Old 01-09-2013, 02:05 PM
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BOLT ON? I'm holding you to that! lol....

I just read that some people had trouble fitting the V6 Calipers...... See, you have aftermarket rims... So they're probably spaced for WHATEVER, in case they're for V6 of 22RE.... AND, I also notice this "Offset 8" on all the V6 or at least 2nd Gen 4Runners SR5 Aluminum 4Spoke rims, like I have. I AM NOT doing that... I already have almost new Calipers, lol... BUT, I don't mind pulling them and putting on equal sized piston-V6 Calipers

The booster should be... And, the Master is 4bolt same pattern.... YET, you do have to bend the brake line a lil to fit, right? (s'what I read, IIRC, from Corax..... a Dude of which I hold in MUCH regard on this "Mod stuff" lol..... He's a 7MGE Swapper, lol.)

Thanks for checking in, Jason... I'm trying to get that figured out for ya, the box... BUT, HAD to clean up my garage and ONE LOCATION all my parts, etc., ya know? I've NEVER been that unorganized in all my life(since I was dealing with my Stepfathers health, then the aftermath of his passing, etc..... JUST CRAZY!) ... but, THINGS ARE FINALLY coming together in a realm of 'normalcy', whatever that is, lol. At least I CAN PLAN things and KNOW when something is coming or not.

BTW, just a totally off topic heads up;

I called FIOS, which many don't have... but, even if you've had the same bundle of WHATEVER for a while... CALL THEM... I just got my bill down 60$ A MONTH!!! hahaha... AND, ..... increased my Net speed to 100/50 megs! .... NOW, to defrag my computer and start fresh....

PS> ANYONE have any input on where to store your pics and video? I'm REALLY nervous about only trusting my external HD's... Any input would be appreciated. Carbonite? Mozie? Or just a back up HD?(but what if there's a fire?) I'm not TOTALLY nuts about pics and video being my life, etc.. BUT, THEY'RE HUGE to me, if you've seen any of my photography? (I'm not a pro, but I have a pretty good eye and have lots of BEAUTIFUL pics that I want to leave to my kids, etc., ya know?) ...... Here's an example.....




































Old 01-09-2013, 02:28 PM
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Nice pics!!

All my important scanned documents, images, etc....are copied to an external hdd and also burned to DVD and stored in a fire rated safe. If you have mass amounts of data then burn to Blu-Ray and store in a safe.

You should be fine with your external hdd if you put it in a fire safe after use. I don't, thus I burn to dvd and store those in the safe. Remember externals shouldn't always be connected or turned on everytime you use your computer. You should only connect it when copying things to it and then removing it or turning it off. A working/viewing copy should be on your internal hdd.

Last edited by Grego92; 01-09-2013 at 02:30 PM.
Old 01-09-2013, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Grego92
Nice pics!!

All my important scanned documents, images, etc....are copied to an external hdd and also burned to DVD and stored in a fire rated safe. If you have mass amounts of data then burn to Blu-Ray and store in a safe.

You should be fine with your external hdd if you put it in a fire safe after use. I don't, thus I burn to dvd and store those in the safe. Remember externals shouldn't always be connected or turned on everytime you use your computer. You should only connect it when copying things to it and then removing it or turning it off. A working/viewing copy should be on your internal hdd.
Mark,
Nice Pics, External HD PLUS DVD, Working docs on local HD, +1
DVD as additional backup for critical files good because files on HD cold still be infected by virus when connected to comp.
I would not trust website storage.
I live in Wildfire county so my external HD back-up is not kept at home- it;s in my office.

Grego,
I mailed actual trace of my shifter rubber boot. If things match please let me know how much I owe you. OR, I can make you a headlight harness upgrade in return - However, that would take longer 'cause I'm so busy at the office.

Regards,
Ray
Old 01-09-2013, 07:41 PM
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awesome pictures mark

i put the newer type master cyl on my runner i had to bend the one line a bit to get it to fit but went right on bolted right up to my booster i did adjust the little plunger inside the booster which pushes on the piston in the MC as it seemed a bit loose
Old 01-09-2013, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyberhorn The Dragon
awesome pictures mark

i put the newer type master cyl on my runner i had to bend the one line a bit to get it to fit but went right on bolted right up to my booster i did adjust the little plunger inside the booster which pushes on the piston in the MC as it seemed a bit loose
Hey Grego, Rad and William, Thanx for the compliments! And the thanx Richard for the help figuring out the cookie sheet phone! Hahaha.

Yep, I finally joined the.smart phone genre! I got a Samsung Galaxy-Note2, & guys, WOW! I'M REALLY IMPRESSED! So, Richard helped me great deal. ... again, thanx much Richard!

I'm using the stylus drag text format rit now & love this thing/method of messaging! I don't even have to type with my fingers, Yeehawwwwww!

people seem to not be able to receive my pics in texts rit now. ... even though I can see they've been attached ......any ideas?

Anyway, don't worry, I won't turn this into 20 posts of "HELP ME FIGURE OUT MY CELL. ...I MEAN SMART PHONE!" HAHAHA!

So I might be able to get to the V6 brake swap preparation soon. ... > I'm excited about that and many more things 2 come. ....

Thought I'd list a few things I've got in the plans to help motivate me a bit!!!!! >>>

1. V6 full system brake swap
2. Flush moutned Con-Ferr 48x60" cage on Thule side rails [eventually with rectangular floods on all sides, Hi-Lift & shovel and spare tire and flat water can, etc]
3. 4Xi sliders w kick out
4. Passenger side panel insulation and dampening, panel completion with 6x9 and possibly sub built-in and then carpet both sides/lights completed and anchor hooks installed (really excited about that one 2!)
5. Wiring in of the second amplifier.
6. Differential breathers kit
7. Get my LCE headers fitted with a 02 flange. Then install header after installing new exhaust studs into repaired head threads. Then, obviously install them with a new gasket. I will also be modifying the collector area with a restrictor plate in order 2 create enough back pressure in the exhaust gas re circulatory system.

There are several more things that I'm going to be doing over the next several months.... Most of which I already have all the parts for, plenty of motivation for and hopefully enough time to get completed. I know it's taking me what seems like forever to get most of these plans that I've had, for many months, completed..... However, I'm doing the best I can with what time that I have, and that's all that I can ask of myself. Ya know?

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 01-09-2013 at 10:29 PM.
Old 01-09-2013, 11:38 PM
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nice plans mark may i make a suggestion on the rear lights make them adjustable via a wing nut so you can tilt them down to light up the area directly behind your runner

my 79 pu/truck has a headache rack i put two fog lights and a flood on rear facing paid off one night a former land lord needed help his big dozer got stuck an he couldnt work on it in the pitch dark i backed down the road he was making out in the canyons of central calif an lit up the entire side of his cat saved his bacon apparently he'd blown a bearing an didnt know it till he could see an would have lost the track if he'd kept going

i know you'd not be doing something like that but you could shine them down into someones engine bay to help them see just an idea
Old 01-10-2013, 09:58 AM
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WOW, that's quite a story William.I've had some scary moments myself the 40,000 pound forklift and a container that was full of caustic acid sludge Hahaha.

Yeah thanks for the suggestion William, I will be putting rectangular flood lights on every side of the conferr, probably only 1 on each side & 2each, front and back.

Originally Posted by Cyberhorn The Dragon
nice plans mark may i make a suggestion on the rear lights make them adjustable via a wing nut so you can tilt them down to light up the area directly behind your runner

my 79 pu/truck has a headache rack i put two fog lights and a flood on rear facing paid off one night a former land lord needed help his big dozer got stuck an he couldnt work on it in the pitch dark i backed down the road he was making out in the canyons of central calif an lit up the entire side of his cat saved his bacon apparently he'd blown a bearing an didnt know it till he could see an would have lost the track if he'd kept going

i know you'd not be doing something like that but you could shine them down into someones engine bay to help them see just an idea
Old 01-10-2013, 11:29 AM
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ouve worked around stainless electropolishing systems mark? cool! i did that for years working for saunders valve UK which got bought by alfalaval an then left to die on the end of a vine :-(
Old 01-10-2013, 11:48 AM
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nice pics mark, havent been on lately since i moved away from the toyota scene, gope you are doing well over there on the coast!
Old 01-10-2013, 12:22 PM
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Hey Josh, yeah I'm doing okay. Just really busy at the moment, I'm trying to figure out this note 2 smartphone. I think all either figure it out or wind up with a cranial aneurysm, hahahaha. Well I miss the simplicity of my stupid rumor 2, I don't miss the 1.5 inch screen, super slow processor ( which I didn't even bother with considering the screen is so small, why even have the internet?) but, all in all, I'm fairly healthy, able to maintain the needs of those around me on my own, and still plan to work out all the details of the mods and such then I'll possibly get them done before I'm 50? Hahahaha

Hey William, I'm not sure what you're talking about regarding stainless, but I did get my hazwoper certification within a few weeks, and then will taking a break from cooking I also was Foreman of the yard at environmental recovery services, a company owned by family member. I drove a hardtail Mack truck for a period of time, and then even drove 48 foot Peterbuilt on all local pickups, like Robinson helicopters, Norris industries, Teledyne, the company that made all off the freeway reflective paint, and I have many other regular pickups as well. I also was part of a team that helps handled hazardous waste emergencies along with the fire department. We don't with the Chevron fires etcetera.

yeah, William, I'm really looking forward to getting on with at least some of these modification. I'm also looking forward perfecting certain things, like my sound system and now integrating my new super smarter than me-phone into the mix! :Iof: I think I will start with is the V 6 upgrade on the brake system, breather extension upgrade, and try to figure out, simultaneously, just what the heck is going on with my miss and seemingly want to I'll them install it on warm restarts
Old 01-10-2013, 03:48 PM
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saunders made stainless steel 3A food grade valves electropolishing was using acids an 20-40K dc volts to bring up the chromium oxide on the surface which made them bacterial negative (bacteria wouldnt grow on the valve surfaces) made for some very nasty tanks of acid would eat through most everything flouric acid muratic nitric hydroflouric we had 12 tanks all near boiling hot

just though youd been working around that lol
Old 01-10-2013, 05:45 PM
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Oh yeah, from styrene to sulfuric to silicone carbide/verrrrry heavy stuff, and this sfuff they (Seimens solar)reactive and expanding by 20 times, and some of the worst spent pesticides uve ever imagined! Lol.... u know the AAA rule... We had a driver that had a tank of sulfuric acid and it was reacting big time. so, all of us drivers will bring him sulfuric acid in order to apply the always add acid rule. we finally got it how to stop reacting were able to drain enough into separate containers. However, not before it blew out a valve and made a huge mess.the same driver later had a tank valve blow in his face and nearly kill him! I recall the process ur talking of. ... But it's been nearly 20 years since then. .... I'm very rusty! Hahaha. Caustic, flammable, #9s, we did deal with everything. Explosive materials too. But those pesticides were the most disgusting stinky things ever! Styrene was very nasty instant body evacuating stuff as well, hahaha!

Originally Posted by Cyberhorn The Dragon
saunders made stainless steel 3A food grade valves electropolishing was using acids an 20-40K dc volts to bring up the chromium oxide on the surface which made them bacterial negative (bacteria wouldnt grow on the valve surfaces) made for some very nasty tanks of acid would eat through most everything flouric acid muratic nitric hydroflouric we had 12 tanks all near boiling hot

just though youd been working around that lol
Old 01-11-2013, 12:02 AM
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OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! CHRISTMAS IN JANUARY, BABY, that's what I'm talking about! lol... Pretty much exactly as long as he said, so THANKS, ADAM, of www.4XINNOVATIONS.com!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

"Dear Mark M******, C.E.C.:

Your sales receipt and tracking information is attached.

Thank you for your business - we appreciate it very much.

Sincerely,
Adam
4x Innovations
1-608-348-4880"
Old 01-11-2013, 01:39 AM
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woot parts
Old 01-11-2013, 04:58 AM
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Just trying to get caught up on threads. I clean my Master Cylinder with brake cleaner. Getting your calipers apart is easy, you will be surprised. A rebuild kit is around $10 a piece. If the seal in the bore is good, I just leave it, hear it can be a pain to get back in.

In the cylinder bore, mine had a lot of fluid that had turned to a gel, I imagine once the fluid gets in there, it can be in there for quite some time for it to ever get pushed out. I did use an air hose with a rubber tip and disconnected at the wheel cylinders and blew all of the old fluid and rust out of the line. It can be a real pain getting all of the air back out of the system, and I did have to rebleed the lines a couple of more times afterwards, but now my brakes are fantasitc.

Will try and get caught up here in the next few days.
Old 01-11-2013, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyberhorn The Dragon
woot parts
Woot, Good Sir William, INDEEDIO! hahaha. VERY Excited.... My friend is available in a week or so to install them.. So I'll likely paint part of them at least.... Just leave spots where the welds will go(as close as I can guess from pics of similar stuffs)....



Originally Posted by Terrys87
Just trying to get caught up on threads. I clean my Master Cylinder with brake cleaner. Getting your calipers apart is easy, you will be surprised. A rebuild kit is around $10 a piece. If the seal in the bore is good, I just leave it, hear it can be a pain to get back in.

In the cylinder bore, mine had a lot of fluid that had turned to a gel, I imagine once the fluid gets in there, it can be in there for quite some time for it to ever get pushed out. I did use an air hose with a rubber tip and disconnected at the wheel cylinders and blew all of the old fluid and rust out of the line. It can be a real pain getting all of the air back out of the system, and I did have to rebleed the lines a couple of more times afterwards, but now my brakes are fantasitc.

Will try and get caught up here in the next few days.
Wow, now I'm even more excited after reading how satisfied you are... And, ... that's with the stock 4Cyl Calipers?(Or V6 Cal's on a V6? hahaha)...

Anyway, lil confused by what you mean by 'seal in the bore'.... You mean a seal between the 2 caliper pistons????

And, .... 10$ each for OEM Rebuild kits?

And, .... how do I tell if the spider monkey running up the street is safe to play with? hahahaha... JK... obviously.

THANKS! I'm also going to be tackling lots more.. just been getting a few requests for things that keep me very busy on top of work. I really need to just take a week off and do NOTHING but my rig, so I can be as close to 'DONE' with it, as much as that's possible, anyhow? lol. You KWIMean, I'm sure. I want to do the...........

1. Heater Control Valve Swap(using a Plastic V6 one, so that WHEN I fix the climate control cables/problem in there.... I wont be doing it again as quickly... My stock one is REALLY hard to move, even without the cable attached[just testing the cable for freezing up unattached from the heater control valve... and v-versus.] ... But I'm pretty sure >>>>>

2. ...that the Climate Control Cable Assembly itself, on a bracket, is busted... When I push the lever over on that lower right one... it goes down and I can see in there that the whole assembly is 'moving down'.... or at least THAT ONE HINGE! Have to tear it down more to see

3. Brake Upgrade...... Would like to get the rebuild kit if anyone has the number? (just for the V6 Calipers... They LOOK like pristine pads and never caused a single groove on the discs they were on... BUT, that doesn't mean it would hurt, for 10$, to get em 'good2go4good', right?

4. I have new Wheel Cyl's in the rear, Terry.... Dragon, Jason, anyone? lol... Do I need different ones or to adjust the LPSV? (would it be VERY best to get rid of the LPSV and go with a Proportioning valve right next to the Master, like Willowbrookstonemenson...something? lol... Starts with a W... RIGHT on the tip of my tongue.... GRRRRR! lol.

5. Breather Extensions...

Those 5 things shouldn't take me too long....

I also have to rebuild 3 pair of Man. Locking hubs... 2 IFS and one SFA from an 86 TLC.... TERRY, ... I have a tip from a good buddy on how to get a lil bolt stud portion out of the hub body(the ones that hold the cover to the body... one broke off in there on the PO.... ).. Would just appreciate ANYONE'S advice on the ways they've removed those type of delicate 'snaffoo's', ya know?



Much more to do... but those things, along with the 'finding my gremlin', should take PLENTY of my spare time, ya know? lol.
Old 01-11-2013, 02:07 PM
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I am not sure about the rear brakes as far as switching them out. I would think that the 4 cylinders would work fine since the front brakes do the majority of the stopping.

The front brakes I used parts store rebuild kit. There are 4 pistons, 2 in each side of the caliper. The seal I am talking about is down in the bore. I used an airhose to where the brake line connects and forced the pistons out with my air compressor. Use LOWWW air pressure as they will shoot out and fly across the room. Ask me how I know. Good thing I wasnt standing in front of it.

On the bottom half of the caliper inbetween the two holes on each end, you can see the little rubber seal that goes inbetweent the two halves to keep fluid from leaking out.

The 4 bigger seals you see around each of the pistons are held by little wire c clips. That is all there is to the rebuild kit. I did have a cylinder hone that I hit the bore with just to put the shine on it and then I rinsed it out with some WD40 and an air hose.

I have a C clamp with a ball on the end and I used a piece of leather inbetween the c clamp and the caliper to seal off the air escape to force the piston out and to seal the other end I used my free hand to seal the other passage way and then used the other hand to operate the air hose. Use quick pumping action. Dont just hold the air pressure to it. It should pop out easily unless you by chance have one frozen and I did have that on a spare caliper.

I will say I had a tough time getting all of the air out of the brake lines as I used the air hose to flush all of the fluid and gunk out of the lines, but my truck had sat for 5 or more years. Alot of trucks dont get the brake fluid flushed out and is probably 20 plus years old in there. I just do it on all of my trucks now.

For some reason the 86 gave me more problems then most to get the air out of the lines. (LF,RF,LR,RR) I would drive it easily on back roads and then get home and rebleed. It took me two more times from the first time I bled mine. Now they work great and I can stand on the brakes and it stops in a nice straight line.

Old 01-11-2013, 02:12 PM
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I have always been happy with the valve that Toyota uses, never messed with that. I am drawing a blank in my mind on the stud you are talking about. I am aware of the spring and little ball but the stud is not coming to mind right now.

To keep from losing that ball that likes to fly out, I assemble and disassemble mine while holding down in a 5 gallon bucket, that ball will fly sometimes, luckily I was able to find it and now I dont mess with it unless I have my bucket.
Old 01-11-2013, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
I have always been happy with the valve that Toyota uses, never messed with that. I am drawing a blank in my mind on the stud you are talking about. I am aware of the spring and little ball but the stud is not coming to mind right now.

To keep from losing that ball that likes to fly out, I assemble and disassemble mine while holding down in a 5 gallon bucket, that ball will fly sometimes, luckily I was able to find it and now I dont mess with it unless I have my bucket.
Hey Terry, thanks, as always, for ur input..Oh yeah, I clay didn't word that properly on the stud stuff... lol. ....

What I meant was, "What is NOW a stud"... hahahaha... One of the six bolts that Mount the cover and dial to the hub body snapped off on this guy at some point. .. Now I need to get it out ..........Terry, Anyone, any ideas?

Thanx so much on all the brake tips/restoration info. ..

Far as the heater control valve, the second green 4runners have a plastic valve. ...... I've seen a few threads for swapping those things in to the 1st gens, but I can't find it now.


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