ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#5561
Registered User
Bed liner is great stuff I use it for tons of stuff, sliders, bumpers, roof rack on my 97, tool box in my p/u. I'm sure I will use it on the bumpers on my 86. I will try and give ya shot tomorrow man.
#5562
Registered User
gonna be some sexy sliders for a sexy rig! can't wait to finish all my engine ˟˟˟˟ so i can get back to getting my rig ready to smash against some muddy trails!
#5563
Registered User
That bedliner spray would be good.I think i remember my next door neighbor having that stuff on his sliders. and its pretty "gripy like" and it still looks good.
#5564
Registered User
The only issue i could see with having bed liner on rock sliders is that it might hinder the purpose of a rock SLIDER, meaning it could stick a little better to things as opposed to sliding off of them. but that being said if your getting hung up on stuff at that height chances are your probably gonna have bigger problems ha ha
#5566
Hey Guys, ..... i think I'll be doing this with the sliders:
1. I have socal85 helping me weld them on... And I'll likely wait to paint til after....
2. I'll be using another product i have, "Hammered Black" by Rustoleum.... I've already used it on my Grill Guard from Downey and it LOVE that stuff... This way, I can have a lil 'different' look, yet still slap some grips on the kick out and outer edge, all the way across in patches
3. The Bedliner MIGHT just 'peel', as socal85 was also thinking. So, ...... as I mentioned, I'll stick with paint, but go with the 'Hammered Black' to be a lil unique, lol... Haven't seen it used on the sliders... And WHY NOT, right? lol. Just have to mask off REALLY well. (unless you guys think I should just make a 2 day thing out of it?
ONE PROBLEM with the Hammered Paint is.... it takes FREAKIN FOREVER to dry, lol. I used it last time from the can, using a roller, on the guard... BUT, this time I have cans of spray of it. Still, I'm worried about overspray and such, ya know? Socal85 told me the reason he waited to paint and just masked off really well is because he has to weld the pegs to the sliders, after lining everything up, etc. The kit comes with gussets and plates and all that... so I should be good to go, just have to figure out the best way/when to paint them. hahaha.
************************************************** ****************
PS> Had a GOOD day with the rig, in a sense.... I went down to a my buddies tire shop/performance shop... He did that tire repair, remounted and balanced that one... Then mounted my 31 I got to my SR5 rim for my spare... helped me put it back up underneath(my lowering stuff works GREAT btw! ).... and then mounted my other MK1 to the new to me Outlaw2.... So now I have 5 32's mounted and 5 31's mounted... And all that, balancing all 3, removing the 225/75/15 spare and mounting and balancing the lemans, ....mounting and balancing the popped tire again and the MK1 mounted and balanced with all new shcraeders..... 20$!!!!!!! WOOT! He said because I bought my tires from him... he helped me out no problem! (plus I sent someone to him for a set of 35's).....
Stoked on that.. Gotta keep the costs WAY down right now.
1. I have socal85 helping me weld them on... And I'll likely wait to paint til after....
2. I'll be using another product i have, "Hammered Black" by Rustoleum.... I've already used it on my Grill Guard from Downey and it LOVE that stuff... This way, I can have a lil 'different' look, yet still slap some grips on the kick out and outer edge, all the way across in patches
3. The Bedliner MIGHT just 'peel', as socal85 was also thinking. So, ...... as I mentioned, I'll stick with paint, but go with the 'Hammered Black' to be a lil unique, lol... Haven't seen it used on the sliders... And WHY NOT, right? lol. Just have to mask off REALLY well. (unless you guys think I should just make a 2 day thing out of it?
ONE PROBLEM with the Hammered Paint is.... it takes FREAKIN FOREVER to dry, lol. I used it last time from the can, using a roller, on the guard... BUT, this time I have cans of spray of it. Still, I'm worried about overspray and such, ya know? Socal85 told me the reason he waited to paint and just masked off really well is because he has to weld the pegs to the sliders, after lining everything up, etc. The kit comes with gussets and plates and all that... so I should be good to go, just have to figure out the best way/when to paint them. hahaha.
************************************************** ****************
PS> Had a GOOD day with the rig, in a sense.... I went down to a my buddies tire shop/performance shop... He did that tire repair, remounted and balanced that one... Then mounted my 31 I got to my SR5 rim for my spare... helped me put it back up underneath(my lowering stuff works GREAT btw! ).... and then mounted my other MK1 to the new to me Outlaw2.... So now I have 5 32's mounted and 5 31's mounted... And all that, balancing all 3, removing the 225/75/15 spare and mounting and balancing the lemans, ....mounting and balancing the popped tire again and the MK1 mounted and balanced with all new shcraeders..... 20$!!!!!!! WOOT! He said because I bought my tires from him... he helped me out no problem! (plus I sent someone to him for a set of 35's).....
Stoked on that.. Gotta keep the costs WAY down right now.
#5567
Registered User
Wow you got a hell of a deal! Nice friend dude. lol Whatever you plan to do with the sliders should be fine. I know you said that paint takes forever to dry but didnt you say you can always drive your mom's CRV? I would do that. Ahh ain't he luxury of having 2 cars is great? lol
#5568
Registered User
Not sure if this product i have in mind will work for the sliders but my cousins used it on his grill and emblems and what not for his lifted taco. its called Plastidip think it comes in spray and roll on stuff pretty cool. never used it myself so i am not sure how it would work on sliders but might be worth checking out, either way i know you'll kill it!
#5569
Wow you got a hell of a deal! Nice friend dude. lol Whatever you plan to do with the sliders should be fine. I know you said that paint takes forever to dry but didnt you say you can always drive your mom's CRV? I would do that. Ahh ain't he luxury of having 2 cars is great? lol
Not sure if this product i have in mind will work for the sliders but my cousins used it on his grill and emblems and what not for his lifted taco. its called Plastidip think it comes in spray and roll on stuff pretty cool. never used it myself so i am not sure how it would work on sliders but might be worth checking out, either way i know you'll kill it!
Thanks, man... I WILL KILL IT! .... OH, wait, my back.... it's killing ME first! hahaha. Jk... I'll be fine, just a LONGGGGGGGGGGGGG DAY! lol.
#5570
Ok, .... So, TODAY, I had to hit Long Beach again and I stopped into the PYParts in Wilmington... Wish I was in the middle somewhere of them all.. Would be much easier and give me more options... Where I'm at, ... Well, ask the guys who've been over... it's not REALLY FAR or anything.. it's just kinda up on a hill in the middle of the furthest spot in L.A. from... well, L.A.! lol. LOVE IT, not complaining... BUT, ... just limits me due to time constraints, ya know?
Anyway, I picked up a few things... and I'll slap them up on the Classified Ad...
Instead of trying to PM everyone, I'll just post here a couple things, before I get pics and post them up there.
1. Pair of Solid Front Axle 30 Spline Aisin Manual Locking Hubs off an 86 Landcruiser(One of the cover bolts was broken off in there... Shouldn't be too complicated to work that sucker out.. Any ideas? lol. I'm probably going to rebuild them, like the other two pair of IFS Hubs I have... BUT, I mention this because these work, from what I've been told, on the 30 Spline 79-85 PU and 4Runner as well?) Never know... Thought I'd share.
2. Pristine Toyota Jack
3. Another "HOOK" from a 4Runner if someone is wanting to do the '2 Hooks' in the front like I have. I like the look and it ALREADY came in handy, once, in Havasu, helping a guy out.
4. 3 Good condition 'Toyota Emblem' Wheel Caps for the rear wheels(and I guess for the front wheels on the ADD 4Runners?)
For me; I got a BRAND NEW looking Aisin 1" Bore Master Cyl. from a 94 4Runner. Also got the "4WD" badge off the Landcruiser... LOVE those... Kinda looks like Grego's Tercel 4WD badge he put in his interior... but without the angled letters(IIRC)..
That will complete my parts for the "V6 Brake Upgrade"...
I now have;
1. BRAND NEW, It must be, wasn't leaking a drop, 1" Bore Aisin Master Cyl
2. Dual Diaphragm Booster from a 2nd Gen 4Runner
3. V6 Calipers that weren't leaking a drop from a 95 V6 4Runner.(The pads in it are like brand new/OEM(Toyota Backing Plates are very distinctive, just like Honda's and others.... So I knew by that and the Stamp on the back of the pads that they're Toyota, and he'd just done them...... Either that? Or he NEVER drove it more than 200 Miles, lol.
Neither the Booster nor Master need Paint... And I FINALLY found a Master Reservoir without a HOLE IN THE TOP AND FORCIBLY REMOVED! GRRRRRRRR! (Yep, ... I figured it out, today, why the reservoirs are always removed.... Broken off the Retaining screw... The Truck, when it comes in, is drained of ALL fluids(what a joke... they don't do half of them... ESPECIALLY the Brake lines, etc.).... They only drain the reservoirs... So to do this, quickly, they FORCE IT off the screw, then pop a hole in the top of it with a screwdriver. ... SO STUPID! It's a PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER! And, in the process of doing that, they make the thing nearly worthless! Just ask Richard, he looked it up for me on his SUPER PHONE, while I was talking to him on my ball and string phone! ... I KNOW, I KNOW.... I WILLLLLL! loL. ... Anyway, anyone wanna guess what it is for just the reservoir, "sub assy"? 67$!!!!!!!!!!! 140$ or so for the Aisin Master, ONLINE SALE PRICE, ... not walk in. So, I guess it's still WORTH IT if you find a good one... BUT, COME ON! They also rest all of the Toyota Trucks on the front cross member, under the core support... ALMOST ALWAYS putting the 'HOOKS' in the hole of one of those "PIPE" thingymadoers they use to prop the trucks up.
BTW, while removing those hubs(using that jack I found, lol).... The rig was on the ground(The 86 Landcruiser)... Well, I had to stop right in the middle of the first one, lower the jack, then move so he could move it over to another spot, 200 feet away! GRRRRRRRRR! lol. By that time, I was DETERMINED! lol.
That's it for now, just rambling, I know... but it was a VERY tiring day.. Work, then running all over for paperwork from some accountants that are trying to help my mom(cuz they love her so much! )... And then the yard for HOURS..... Meh, I'm learning... And MAN, was it sad to see that Landcruiser there and then having to leave? I know it'll be picked to death by 9am tomorrow! I wish I knew people that needed stuff off it.. I'd GRAB IT. Hood was ok, pass. side doors, all the glass, some of the dash, seats were all fine, motor was a 2F... I'm sure SOMEONE needs one.... One Fender, the tailgate, all fine... Even the tires were good.... Oh well.
I wondered on one thing... i asked Richard, "What did I hear about people using these front axles for the SAS?"... He wasn't sure, his info he had started at 89 or something? I just thought I read that they're REALLY beefy and wider, so people like them for 'crawlers'???????????????//ANYONE???????????? I DID try to look, I swear, ... I just don't see it
Also, I need more Gear info from TERRY!!!! hehehehe... I wanna grab some 4.88's from one of these 2nd Gens... but I need to know the numbers again... Which thread is it? I know mine is long... but he has like 10, ...so I can't remember. I'll look at the 85 one... i think that was it. hehe.
OH, and I FINALLY found the hoses Richard needs for his Engine... It's a 3.0 thing. It's pretty tough, but it's NOT breaking really bad.. So, should work for now. I think new they're 18$ or so... But a couple bux makes it easy to put it off a lil while longer, lol.
PS> Can anyone tell me what people are usually looking for off the 2nd Gens... There's never a shortage of those.. They're usually SO CLEAN inside... BUT, I just don't wanna waste time or money 'gathering' things, ya know? I'll look into it, as well, but I just am curious if any 2nd Gen people could tell me what breaks? Thanks!
PSS> One of the 2nd Gen 4Runners was a Stick! I couldn't believe it... barely ever see that. So I grabbed the 5spd Shifter knob..It's nice... kinda like the Celica ones... But a lil smaller?
Anyway, I picked up a few things... and I'll slap them up on the Classified Ad...
Instead of trying to PM everyone, I'll just post here a couple things, before I get pics and post them up there.
1. Pair of Solid Front Axle 30 Spline Aisin Manual Locking Hubs off an 86 Landcruiser(One of the cover bolts was broken off in there... Shouldn't be too complicated to work that sucker out.. Any ideas? lol. I'm probably going to rebuild them, like the other two pair of IFS Hubs I have... BUT, I mention this because these work, from what I've been told, on the 30 Spline 79-85 PU and 4Runner as well?) Never know... Thought I'd share.
2. Pristine Toyota Jack
3. Another "HOOK" from a 4Runner if someone is wanting to do the '2 Hooks' in the front like I have. I like the look and it ALREADY came in handy, once, in Havasu, helping a guy out.
4. 3 Good condition 'Toyota Emblem' Wheel Caps for the rear wheels(and I guess for the front wheels on the ADD 4Runners?)
For me; I got a BRAND NEW looking Aisin 1" Bore Master Cyl. from a 94 4Runner. Also got the "4WD" badge off the Landcruiser... LOVE those... Kinda looks like Grego's Tercel 4WD badge he put in his interior... but without the angled letters(IIRC)..
That will complete my parts for the "V6 Brake Upgrade"...
I now have;
1. BRAND NEW, It must be, wasn't leaking a drop, 1" Bore Aisin Master Cyl
2. Dual Diaphragm Booster from a 2nd Gen 4Runner
3. V6 Calipers that weren't leaking a drop from a 95 V6 4Runner.(The pads in it are like brand new/OEM(Toyota Backing Plates are very distinctive, just like Honda's and others.... So I knew by that and the Stamp on the back of the pads that they're Toyota, and he'd just done them...... Either that? Or he NEVER drove it more than 200 Miles, lol.
Neither the Booster nor Master need Paint... And I FINALLY found a Master Reservoir without a HOLE IN THE TOP AND FORCIBLY REMOVED! GRRRRRRRR! (Yep, ... I figured it out, today, why the reservoirs are always removed.... Broken off the Retaining screw... The Truck, when it comes in, is drained of ALL fluids(what a joke... they don't do half of them... ESPECIALLY the Brake lines, etc.).... They only drain the reservoirs... So to do this, quickly, they FORCE IT off the screw, then pop a hole in the top of it with a screwdriver. ... SO STUPID! It's a PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER! And, in the process of doing that, they make the thing nearly worthless! Just ask Richard, he looked it up for me on his SUPER PHONE, while I was talking to him on my ball and string phone! ... I KNOW, I KNOW.... I WILLLLLL! loL. ... Anyway, anyone wanna guess what it is for just the reservoir, "sub assy"? 67$!!!!!!!!!!! 140$ or so for the Aisin Master, ONLINE SALE PRICE, ... not walk in. So, I guess it's still WORTH IT if you find a good one... BUT, COME ON! They also rest all of the Toyota Trucks on the front cross member, under the core support... ALMOST ALWAYS putting the 'HOOKS' in the hole of one of those "PIPE" thingymadoers they use to prop the trucks up.
BTW, while removing those hubs(using that jack I found, lol).... The rig was on the ground(The 86 Landcruiser)... Well, I had to stop right in the middle of the first one, lower the jack, then move so he could move it over to another spot, 200 feet away! GRRRRRRRRR! lol. By that time, I was DETERMINED! lol.
That's it for now, just rambling, I know... but it was a VERY tiring day.. Work, then running all over for paperwork from some accountants that are trying to help my mom(cuz they love her so much! )... And then the yard for HOURS..... Meh, I'm learning... And MAN, was it sad to see that Landcruiser there and then having to leave? I know it'll be picked to death by 9am tomorrow! I wish I knew people that needed stuff off it.. I'd GRAB IT. Hood was ok, pass. side doors, all the glass, some of the dash, seats were all fine, motor was a 2F... I'm sure SOMEONE needs one.... One Fender, the tailgate, all fine... Even the tires were good.... Oh well.
I wondered on one thing... i asked Richard, "What did I hear about people using these front axles for the SAS?"... He wasn't sure, his info he had started at 89 or something? I just thought I read that they're REALLY beefy and wider, so people like them for 'crawlers'???????????????//ANYONE???????????? I DID try to look, I swear, ... I just don't see it
Also, I need more Gear info from TERRY!!!! hehehehe... I wanna grab some 4.88's from one of these 2nd Gens... but I need to know the numbers again... Which thread is it? I know mine is long... but he has like 10, ...so I can't remember. I'll look at the 85 one... i think that was it. hehe.
OH, and I FINALLY found the hoses Richard needs for his Engine... It's a 3.0 thing. It's pretty tough, but it's NOT breaking really bad.. So, should work for now. I think new they're 18$ or so... But a couple bux makes it easy to put it off a lil while longer, lol.
PS> Can anyone tell me what people are usually looking for off the 2nd Gens... There's never a shortage of those.. They're usually SO CLEAN inside... BUT, I just don't wanna waste time or money 'gathering' things, ya know? I'll look into it, as well, but I just am curious if any 2nd Gen people could tell me what breaks? Thanks!
PSS> One of the 2nd Gen 4Runners was a Stick! I couldn't believe it... barely ever see that. So I grabbed the 5spd Shifter knob..It's nice... kinda like the Celica ones... But a lil smaller?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 01-05-2013 at 11:02 PM.
#5571
Registered User
There's really never a shortage of 2nd gen Runners there? Man, I need to take a couple days off to come down there and loot a couple. By the way, manuals aren't really uncommon in the 2nd gens. The gear code on the door you need is G144, I believe.
Window switches, motors, and the door lock controller/relay(i think) or whatever it's called in the driver side kick panel area are the things I can think of off the top of my head that goes bad in 2nd gens. That's what's jacked up in mine, anyhow!
Window switches, motors, and the door lock controller/relay(i think) or whatever it's called in the driver side kick panel area are the things I can think of off the top of my head that goes bad in 2nd gens. That's what's jacked up in mine, anyhow!
#5573
Contributing Member
[QUOTE]
Paint is good because you will be able to touch it up. I have not had any problem with slipping when I stand on my sliders so the friction tape is definitely optional. The tape will make touching up the paint a little more difficult. Since I have a 1" body lift I was able to make my sliders bolt on. Bolt ons were definitely more work but now I can easily remove them if they ever need repair, plus I was able to tack up the sliders and remove them for welding. Your welder will thank you and the welds should come out better. Once they were all welded up I was able to paint them and then install them.
Having sliders will give you more confidence off road even if you don't beat on them. Knowing that they can be removed and repaired or modified adds more confidence. Either way you are gonna love the look and the feel of them.
Slider mounting plates
[IMG][/IMG]
Fitting up
*******************************
PS How do I make these images smaller?
*******************************
Hey Guys, ..... i think I'll be doing this with the sliders:
1. I have socal85 helping me weld them on... And I'll likely wait to paint til after....
2. I'll be using another product i have, "Hammered Black" by Rustoleum.... I've already used it on my Grill Guard from Downey and it LOVE that stuff... This way, I can have a lil 'different' look, yet still slap some grips on the kick out and outer edge, all the way across in patches
3. The Bedliner MIGHT just 'peel', as socal85 was also thinking. So, ...... as I mentioned, I'll stick with paint, but go with the 'Hammered Black' to be a lil unique, lol... Haven't seen it used on the sliders... And WHY NOT, right? lol. Just have to mask off REALLY well. (unless you guys think I should just make a 2 day thing out of it?
1. I have socal85 helping me weld them on... And I'll likely wait to paint til after....
2. I'll be using another product i have, "Hammered Black" by Rustoleum.... I've already used it on my Grill Guard from Downey and it LOVE that stuff... This way, I can have a lil 'different' look, yet still slap some grips on the kick out and outer edge, all the way across in patches
3. The Bedliner MIGHT just 'peel', as socal85 was also thinking. So, ...... as I mentioned, I'll stick with paint, but go with the 'Hammered Black' to be a lil unique, lol... Haven't seen it used on the sliders... And WHY NOT, right? lol. Just have to mask off REALLY well. (unless you guys think I should just make a 2 day thing out of it?
Having sliders will give you more confidence off road even if you don't beat on them. Knowing that they can be removed and repaired or modified adds more confidence. Either way you are gonna love the look and the feel of them.
Slider mounting plates
[IMG][/IMG]
Fitting up
*******************************
PS How do I make these images smaller?
*******************************
Last edited by Buck87; 01-06-2013 at 11:21 AM. Reason: grammer
#5574
There's really never a shortage of 2nd gen Runners there? Man, I need to take a couple days off to come down there and loot a couple. By the way, manuals aren't really uncommon in the 2nd gens. The gear code on the door you need is G144, I believe.
Window switches, motors, and the door lock controller/relay(i think) or whatever it's called in the driver side kick panel area are the things I can think of off the top of my head that goes bad in 2nd gens. That's what's jacked up in mine, anyhow!
Window switches, motors, and the door lock controller/relay(i think) or whatever it's called in the driver side kick panel area are the things I can think of off the top of my head that goes bad in 2nd gens. That's what's jacked up in mine, anyhow!
Thanks on the tips on what goes bad....... KEEP THEM COMING GUYS>>> I WOULD STOCK UP If I knew what people usually needed for them.
THANKS! yeah, I scored, again, on stuff I NEED! Not just stuff I can resell... So that's good. Having the whole brake project parts set up(although I might need to do something with the LPSV? Or something? lol)...
[quote=Buck87;52022630]
Paint is good because you will be able to touch it up. I have not had any problem with slipping when I stand on my sliders so the friction tape is definitely optional. The tape will make touching up the paint a little more difficult. Since I have a 1" body lift I was able to make my sliders bolt on. Bolt ons were definitely more work but now I can easily remove them if they ever need repair, plus I was able to tack up the sliders and remove them for welding. Your welder will thank you and the welds should come out better. Once they were all welded up I was able to paint them and then install them.
Having sliders will give you more confidence off road even if you don't beat on them. Knowing that they can be removed and repaired or modified adds more confidence. Either way you are gonna love the look and the feel of them.
Slider mounting plates
Fitting up
*******************************
PS How do I make these images smaller?
*******************************
The strips? Yeah, I can paint over them.... they'd still grip, ya know? It's not for me, its' for my mom, as she get's picked up in the old "Lady in REDDDDDDD" 1/2 the time hahaha. (Was "RUBY"... but RAD is using that for his "Ruby Tuesday", ...so I've tried to find another name, lol... Either "ROJA" or "The Lady in Red" or...... "Redrum-ette", lol. My mom, even with my help, is fading pretty quickly in her strength and flexibility.. And she already racked her shin on my Sisters Yukon the other trip to Havasu.. ..... So, I want my lil fold out step I have down, then step onto the slider that's GRIPPY, ...THEN ease in to the rig.. She gets in pretty good, now.. BUT, that extra step will help, I'm sure ot it. The kick out for me is a bonus... I will have the con-ferr up there, soon... so, I wanna do it right.
RAD... wanna come up and help me and Richard put on my Con-Ferr and side rails? hahaha.
#5575
Registered User
Well if I come down it'll definitely be after I get my 4wd sorted out from having my cv ready to snap at Big Bear over Christmas, and then we could wheel as well as strip the junkyard clean! I case you look here before you get my pm, I think pretty much any switch or complicated relay(like more complicated than a turn signal flasher relay) is worth grabbing out of most any of the Toys as old as ours.
#5576
Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Posts: 5,125
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Hey Chef, just a quick check on your projects and a 'hi'. Can't wait to see the rig with the sliders on it.
Last edited by rworegon; 01-06-2013 at 05:15 PM.
#5577
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 11,334
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Hey Mark... you can get little collapsible "1 step" stools that your mom could use... they fold down to the size of a 1" binder give or take and would take up no space in the truck.
Other stuff to look for is padded console lids in good condition... the plastic hinge on the top always seems to get broken or else the cover is ripped... it's easy to make 1 good one if you come across 2 bad ones ie hinge on one cover on other... most any stock switch will find a home fast...
hope your mom improves... take her easy bra... aviator
Other stuff to look for is padded console lids in good condition... the plastic hinge on the top always seems to get broken or else the cover is ripped... it's easy to make 1 good one if you come across 2 bad ones ie hinge on one cover on other... most any stock switch will find a home fast...
hope your mom improves... take her easy bra... aviator
#5578
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 86
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Hey Chef!
I am looking forward to seeing those sliders. Normally when I see 'Chef' and 'Sliders' in the same post I get hungry for lil' burgers.
I vote for the bed liner. It has good texture, hides scratches nicely, and touches up easily. I would paint them first though, with the exception of a few inches around the area to be welded. Otherwise, painting upside down after install will be a pain, and a mess.
The hammered finish stuff is good too. I use that on the underbody skid plates.
I'm excited for you. Can't wait to see the pics!
I am looking forward to seeing those sliders. Normally when I see 'Chef' and 'Sliders' in the same post I get hungry for lil' burgers.
I vote for the bed liner. It has good texture, hides scratches nicely, and touches up easily. I would paint them first though, with the exception of a few inches around the area to be welded. Otherwise, painting upside down after install will be a pain, and a mess.
The hammered finish stuff is good too. I use that on the underbody skid plates.
I'm excited for you. Can't wait to see the pics!
#5580
Hey guys, thanks for the tips! (Paul, .... I got a second one already for her.... It's a collapsing Step that holds like 250#... AMAZING and simple technology.. and for 8$ AT BIG LOTS? woot! LOL).... I had steps that lowered down on my Blazer, stock... (70 CST SWEETNESS! lol)... Put the foot on it and it would lower down like 8".... like a swing out step, BA! hehe. BUT, the sliders would just be a good second step for her as she got in... She's just a LILLLLLLL short of it when sliding the feet in... She makes it fine, but anything to make it easier/safer, right?
I think I'm going with Hammered Black on the Sliders... and here's why..
* I have plenty
* I can touch up WITH A ROLLER, using the Can of it I have as well ... This leaves NO worry about mess or overspray... If I do get the bumpers from him, I'll just paint them with the spray cans while on the ground, once it's ready... then he can mount it up and I'll touch up the welded areas with the roll on again, ya know? Stuff is great... and it's VERY tough.. And I like that it's textured. I DO like the Bedliner idea, as well, so I'm thinking I'll try the hammered... and if I would rather go with 'real black', NOT gunmetal gray that is Hammered Black... Then so be it, I'll scuff up the hammered and slap on the Bedliner! Sound good?
Just been really busy, guys... As SOON as I have a lil time to 'schedule in a full day' here and there, I'll start tackling the V6 Brake upgrade with 1" master and Dual Diaphragm Booster/V6 Calipers... Then the Roof Rack(or vice Versa... now that richard is on this.... I might have him come over and help me and I help him Then, all the rest as well. I HAVE TO FIGURE OUT THIS FREAKING GREMLIN of the idling down when hot restarting.... IT'S REALLY starting to tick me off, lol... And it could be lean, etc.... I don't want that.... NOT good for her! Makes sense that it could be the FPR, as that can allow too much pressure through, which isn't needed on a hot restart... But still pass MOST of the tests, like not leaking fuel into the vacuum hose, etc. Also have to fix the intermittent flickering with my rear lights I just added... BUT, the funny thing? IT'S NOT DONE IT FOR DAYS, OF COURSE, NOW THAT I TRIED TO DIG IN THERE A LIL... So I'm waiting until it's doing it again so I can mess with it.
ANOTHER THING came up.... as you know.... The window in back is stopping and not working at times.. It 'pauses'... not 'sticking in the tracks or just super slow all the time'.... Some times it's really quick up and down, others it's slow(only up)... and others its just not wanting to work... BUT, when I push in on the back gate, JUST SLIGHTLY, like 1/8" of pressure.... it works fine.. When I let off, it wont work... if I push in too hard, it wont work... VERY odd! HAS to be either something rubbed raw in there, or the door lock detection switch is unhappy(got a spare from a 95, just need to wire it in/connector is different).... OR....... COULD be the Window Relay module... I got another one, thanks to JONNY! .... so, I'll check that as well when I pull the panels to do the carpet(if I don't find it when tinkering with the door lock detection switch or something, ya know?)
Anyway, got some pics of the stuff I have recently...
V6 Calipers from a 94 4Runner with 96K miles.. the rotors were worn PERFECTLY, ... and they were not leaking a drop. Obviously need cleaning/painting... but also wanna clean them up like Terry did(not all the way like he did, but clean the pistons a lil and maybe do new piston seals).....
Dual Diaphragm Booster from a 95 4Runner
Master Cyl from a 94 4Runner that appears to be brand new and wasn't leaking a drop from the rear.... and switched the really clean Reservoir with a PUNCTURED TOP(idiots at PYPart/employees, ... as I mentioned )... and swapped over this one with NO HOLE in the top and both seals on it and the electrical connector for 'low brake fluid'....
(ANYTHING else I might need to do this Brake Swap, guys? Will these calipers fit inside my 87 SR5 Rims? haha. )
Also gonna fix my climate control heater control valve cable bracket thing in the dash(if I can manage it without taking the dash apart,... I think I can).... and the main problem, which is my REALLY stuck heater control valve.. Putting in this from a second gen 4Runner, plastic and moves like butter(Richards 89 has it too, not sure but think they changed them in 88 with the V6 introduction)....
Door lock detection switch donor from a 95... looks IDENTICAL.. but might not be, meh... worth a try....
The Yakima Towers I got for free'ish... They'll go on there with tubes I have to find when the Cage isn't on there, so I can put serious weight on there like a Kayak (these guys got me itching for one! Dang you Grego! hahaha)...
Got 2 more of these from a 2nd Gen to put in the rear above the Passengers(in case someone needs to jump in with me on one of the upcoming trips to wheel/camp
Tube in good shape for Richard/Redeth.......
I think I'm going with Hammered Black on the Sliders... and here's why..
* I have plenty
* I can touch up WITH A ROLLER, using the Can of it I have as well ... This leaves NO worry about mess or overspray... If I do get the bumpers from him, I'll just paint them with the spray cans while on the ground, once it's ready... then he can mount it up and I'll touch up the welded areas with the roll on again, ya know? Stuff is great... and it's VERY tough.. And I like that it's textured. I DO like the Bedliner idea, as well, so I'm thinking I'll try the hammered... and if I would rather go with 'real black', NOT gunmetal gray that is Hammered Black... Then so be it, I'll scuff up the hammered and slap on the Bedliner! Sound good?
Just been really busy, guys... As SOON as I have a lil time to 'schedule in a full day' here and there, I'll start tackling the V6 Brake upgrade with 1" master and Dual Diaphragm Booster/V6 Calipers... Then the Roof Rack(or vice Versa... now that richard is on this.... I might have him come over and help me and I help him Then, all the rest as well. I HAVE TO FIGURE OUT THIS FREAKING GREMLIN of the idling down when hot restarting.... IT'S REALLY starting to tick me off, lol... And it could be lean, etc.... I don't want that.... NOT good for her! Makes sense that it could be the FPR, as that can allow too much pressure through, which isn't needed on a hot restart... But still pass MOST of the tests, like not leaking fuel into the vacuum hose, etc. Also have to fix the intermittent flickering with my rear lights I just added... BUT, the funny thing? IT'S NOT DONE IT FOR DAYS, OF COURSE, NOW THAT I TRIED TO DIG IN THERE A LIL... So I'm waiting until it's doing it again so I can mess with it.
ANOTHER THING came up.... as you know.... The window in back is stopping and not working at times.. It 'pauses'... not 'sticking in the tracks or just super slow all the time'.... Some times it's really quick up and down, others it's slow(only up)... and others its just not wanting to work... BUT, when I push in on the back gate, JUST SLIGHTLY, like 1/8" of pressure.... it works fine.. When I let off, it wont work... if I push in too hard, it wont work... VERY odd! HAS to be either something rubbed raw in there, or the door lock detection switch is unhappy(got a spare from a 95, just need to wire it in/connector is different).... OR....... COULD be the Window Relay module... I got another one, thanks to JONNY! .... so, I'll check that as well when I pull the panels to do the carpet(if I don't find it when tinkering with the door lock detection switch or something, ya know?)
Anyway, got some pics of the stuff I have recently...
V6 Calipers from a 94 4Runner with 96K miles.. the rotors were worn PERFECTLY, ... and they were not leaking a drop. Obviously need cleaning/painting... but also wanna clean them up like Terry did(not all the way like he did, but clean the pistons a lil and maybe do new piston seals).....
Dual Diaphragm Booster from a 95 4Runner
Master Cyl from a 94 4Runner that appears to be brand new and wasn't leaking a drop from the rear.... and switched the really clean Reservoir with a PUNCTURED TOP(idiots at PYPart/employees, ... as I mentioned )... and swapped over this one with NO HOLE in the top and both seals on it and the electrical connector for 'low brake fluid'....
(ANYTHING else I might need to do this Brake Swap, guys? Will these calipers fit inside my 87 SR5 Rims? haha. )
Also gonna fix my climate control heater control valve cable bracket thing in the dash(if I can manage it without taking the dash apart,... I think I can).... and the main problem, which is my REALLY stuck heater control valve.. Putting in this from a second gen 4Runner, plastic and moves like butter(Richards 89 has it too, not sure but think they changed them in 88 with the V6 introduction)....
Door lock detection switch donor from a 95... looks IDENTICAL.. but might not be, meh... worth a try....
The Yakima Towers I got for free'ish... They'll go on there with tubes I have to find when the Cage isn't on there, so I can put serious weight on there like a Kayak (these guys got me itching for one! Dang you Grego! hahaha)...
Got 2 more of these from a 2nd Gen to put in the rear above the Passengers(in case someone needs to jump in with me on one of the upcoming trips to wheel/camp
Tube in good shape for Richard/Redeth.......