Cyberhorn The Dragon

those locks would work too mark i just grabbed one off the top of fleabay as an example all youd need is a 1/4 turn to put the lever behind the main panel nothing to grip or grab unless someone smashes the panel open they aint getting whats inside the key in the lock becomes your handle to open an close the panel

as for lips id have to see what your talkin bout

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I hear ya, Dragon

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I was perusing Crutchfield and thought I'd share some VERY COOL mod options for those with the cabbage to do them.......... (and the will power to stick with it and make em work in some cases, lol)>>>>>>>

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_663INTR...Intra-Pod.html

I'd have to measure... but I think these, just like they are, would fit into the panels with the proper cut out (for 8's though ) hahaha>>>>

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB80...ss-Bunker.html

And, AN EVEN SICKERERER custom fit for between the roll bars(one would have to be build the opposite way to fit in the other side between the roll bars.... 5" DEPTH! >>>>

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_044CHG1...ml#details-tab

Now THESE are really cool! >>>

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_044CEXP...res-Black.html

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_663XJPO...ts-XJ-Pod.html

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

FIRST OFF... THANKS, RAD! Once again, you gave me a good lead on the Frost King Heat and Cooling Duct Peal and Stick High Heat Resistance HEAVY DUTY FOIL Backed Foam stick on rolls!!!!! >>>>>


ON sale at Lowes, I paid 25% or so less than that! ......

************************************************** **********

Tomorrow, I will start laying in the Peal and Seal(U-Seal Product)... I am only doing around 50-60% of the panels(Only laying in for added density where the longest sections of 'flat panel' are, without any curves or structural rigidity, make sense? So over the wheel well, I'll only be laying a single strip over the entire section of the panel that is above the wheel well/between the roll bars and a lil past... Then back to 2 pieces all the way up to the end of the panel by the back of the front seats(still make sense? hehe.... THEN, lastly, in the very rear... that'll be 2 strips as well. All of this will be 100% SEALED OFF by Extra Heavy Duty Foil Tape(This stuff is like DIFFICULT to remove from your fingers as you're unraveling it. hahah)....... This way, there will be ZERO risk of smell, period, end of story

OVER the U-Seal and foil tape... I will be laying on that Frost King Duct Wrapping Product. Again, over the wheel well/between the roll bar, being that it's 12", I will only need a single strip there in order to COMPLETELY cover it(with foil tape on either side just for 2x reassurance for PERMASTICK FACTOR! hahaha).... , and 2 sheets elsewhere where it's a taller void, like again, in the rear and front of wheel well. This stuff I will overlap very slightly(it says 1/2")... And again, using foil tape. This will TRIPLE ENSURE that I will never have any stink from this stuff. PLUS, it will be held in tact by the foil tape, ... AND, I personally feel that, by the laws of physics and periodic table(hehe).... 'THE SEALING OFF OF EVERYTHING WITH FOIL TAPE will ensure that BOTH products will last much longer.... I mean, let's face it... Oxygen is the enemy of this and most any 'adhesive' or 'pliable rubberized chemical base product'....... isn't it? lol.

I would start tonight, now that I FINALLY have some spare time... BUT, as many who've worked with this stuff know(or anyone who's worked with an adhesive backed product know, lol)l.... "NEVER apply it when it's cold out"

Tomorrow, I'm hoping it's as warm as today was....... THEN IT'S ON!

If I have time, while I'm in there, I'll be adding the wiring from the front(dome fuse circuit) to the rear, where it will be prepped and split into 3 total(for the overhead dome and two 2nd Gen Cargo Dome lights with the "Door/Off/On" capability. I will also pull the tailgate panel and wire in the diode and run the wire for the 'DOOR' portion of all 3 lights as well.

************************************************** *******

The finishing of the rear panels, even the holes for the 2nd Gen Cargo Domes will be done last... I mean, everything has to be wired in and ready for all that stuff, anyhow... So I have to go over that stuff tonight, well, to be sure I have it all down and the wiring locations set up ...... BTW,.... since I'm not installing a rear window switch in the very back... I will only have to run it to the/and off the/ existing Rear Window Switch, after I've done a "TERRY"... c'monnnnn, you all know what I mean hehehehe. In case you don't, I mean that 'I'll be grounding out the front switch and then wiring up the one on the rear of the console to it.

RAD4Runner

Leaving stock deck lamp...
Carpet over the panel and pinched by L-trim...
P&S only on wide middle areas of body panel, sealed with foil tape, and topped with Frost King...

All good plans, Chef!
We'll be meteor shower watching in Anza-Borrego when Leonids peak evening of 17Nov so the red deck lamp will come in handy.
The Frost King Foam & Foil insulation would be great for small and/or curved areas where you want a perfect fit. If you want more insulation, you can always double it up. Had I found the Frost King earlier, I would have just used that on the body panels on top of P&S, instead of Ensolite from RAAMAudio. Anyway the Ensolite is a good value.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have never used that spray sealer and am thinking I might eventually add it to the undercarriage if it will not crack out and become a water trap. Never thought of putting it on the back panels on the inside. It could only help for insulation and noise dampening.

Carpentry is not my cup of tea. I cant drive a nail through a sheet of newspaper and getting a straight line cut is only if I have a table saw with a guide on it. Something I would probably enjoy doing if I had the fool proof tools to do it with, so cant suggest about using burch.

I will look into the different sealers that have been mentioned. I think you will be quite surprised at how much quiter the sound deading does on the rear panels. Driving my two different runners is nite and day difference just because of that alone. I can hear myself think when driving Mistys truck. I still have the interior out in mine.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ok, ...... I ran out tonight, til 10 minutes ago, pulled the jack and window fluid bag, went over it again, with a lightly damp rag, then 85% Alcohol ragged it down well... AMAZING what the alcohol got off after I've cleaned it 2 times already. Tomorrow, I'll look up again how to get the U-Seal ready(RAD, JUST TELL ME HERE, PLEASE? HAHAHAHA)... I think I have to warm up the inside of the panels if it's not hot enough outside(I'm going to pull it outside, and if it's 85*F or so again tomorrow, I'll leave the windows up and let it bake in there for a bit... THEN, I guess lay out a few sheets of U-seal out on cardboard in the sun with the black side up and let it get warm.. Then take them in one at a time and roll them on, tape em in and then slap the Frost King P&S Foam on there over the top of it, tape that in and call it 'Ophelia'! hehe. ) ALL of this should be pretty easy to apply if it's hot out... And if not, I have 3 ceramic mini heaters to help it out, ya feel me?

Wish me well, guys (Mainly that NOTHING INTERRUPTS ME, AT ALL, TOMORROW! hehehe).

PS> I would have got the U-seal and foil tape done today if my daughter and Granddaughter didn't come by today MAN she's a lil gem!

RAD4Runner

Chef, P&S instructions do not need it that hot.Letting truck sit in sun would help, tho. No need to bake the P&S itself; could get too messy.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Rad Still haven't been able to get to it...BUT, heading out there shortly. Trucks been in the sun for a while... should have the panel nice and toasty in there for a 'free from ANY condensation' application haha.

I'm still kinda torn on the 10" in the box... As it WOULD have to likely leave the vehicle during 'sleepy time' hours while camping.... BUT, again, that's 10% MAX of any years Camping Time Percentage... mostly 1% in the last couple years(THAT WILL change, so I wanna have a good plan). I'll snap a pic of how I place the 6x9's while camping, while I'm out there today.

I think 'while camping' or with fully stuffed loads from the store, etc., are an issue.... I'd just pull the sub for those times. It's not really necessary for me to enjoy a camping trip. Eventually, I could slap 8" Subs in the roll bar gaps.... into the panels... But for now, I have a GREAT sounding 10" JL, so I wont try to justify ANOTHER expense I don't really NEED, ya know? Plus, any Sub in there needs to be well enclosed... here's why.......

When cleaning out my panels, it's obvious to me, as a few said, that the body seam runs the entire length of the panel... In fact, I could see light through the door beam seam where the outer portion of the door jam meets the rear panels. I even found MUD splatter like 'trailing mud spray pattern', like my gold markings on the side? haha... running up into the outer portion of the fender well. THAT concerns me... and I think I will work on sealing that from the outside once I get it all fixed up in there. Reason being, any moisture can run down a bead of E-6000 to the drain holes in front and back of the wheel well. THIS brings me to the point that.... well, ... IF YOU USE the panel, however modified with deadening and Sound Mat... IT WILL corrode on the back, and even get moisture to it, which is a BIGGGGG no no for ANY speaker... So yes, an enclosure that comes RIGHT TO the panel would be the way to go. BUT, with a 10, especially between the roll bars... there's simply NOT ENOUGH VOID in there to make a sufficient 'mock box' inside.... UNLESS you ran the box all the way down into the rear, up to the Jack area or so, OR, you could build it into the front area, which is basically just to the sides of the passengers in back(the FRONT MOST void, which is actually probably the largest available and likely the best.... IF ONLY THE WINDOW CONTROL MODULE AND DEFROSTER RELAY WEREN'T THERE, EH? hehehe) I think it's a GREAT idea, IF your sounds being built in are everything to you. Personally, I think with a couple HIGH QUALITY 6x9's in back where the holes usually are... You should be MORE than fine on sounds if you have a sub. When rolling around town, if you hardly have passengers... just fold the seats down and VOILA, nothing obstructing your 'SOUNDS', like the back of the back seats would a lil bit. THE BEST spot would be the back seat area panels... NO WAY in heck I'm cutting those up.... So 6x9 Boxes or laid into the rear panels it is

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Today, I laid in the patches of U-Seal(Peal and Seal from anotha motha! lol)>.. Foil taped it in, wheel hump and all the way up to the front edge under the Pillar with the Badge..... CAME OUT GREAT! Thanks so much, RAD, for shooting me the "Frost King" idea.. The stuff is GREAT to work with... and it even provided quite a bit of it's own dampening and TONS of temperature control >>>>>>>







On to the other side, tomorrow........

BUT, I HAVE A QUESTION;

* At some point, today, .... my rear window became disabled. I've tried all the normal tricks, including tapping on the window relay .... I even thought maybe it was the wiper fluid bag/connector being disconnected.... Hooked it back up with the Jack in, etc... nothing.

THE ONLY thing I did up near the Window Relay is feel the plug underneath and try seeing if it'd worked it's way out a bit or something... It seemed to push in a TINY bit, but then recess, like most of those type clips too. It's in there, plain and simple. I was feeling around that, yesterday..... Now today, it's not rolling up at all. NO WIRING is disconnected, etc... what should I check first? Maybe try out one of my spare rear window relay modules???? HELP! hahaha.

RAD4Runner

You sure your top off switch is connected well? Could have have nudged it off while applying P&S?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'll check that out... I did unplug it and clean it out and dielectric dab-L-doo-ya on there, lol... I might have never got it 'snapped' back in and then knocked it out or maybe even damaged it .... I'll check ..... What do ya think of all the rest, man? haha... I was really hoping to impress ya hehehehe.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

NOPE; ....... Just checked the "TOP OFF WINDOW CANCEL SWITCH"..... not the culprit.

Also checked the connection really well as I could on the Rear Window Relay Module.... doesn't seem compromised, and to be honest, I don't think I ever really bumped that even, let alone gave it a nasty beating, hahaha. Man, this is really a bummer.

Is there a fuse for this, RAD? Even if there was.... I've not done anything that would cause it to not operate... I checked the rear wiper arm that it was engaging that cancel switch... it seems to be. When I hit the key the first time on the rear gate.... I hear ONE CLICK... that's it. After that, nada, no more 'click', lol. It COULD be coincidence, but I doubt it. Although, this has been acting up for a LONGGGGGG time. I've had to rap on the back seats front most of the rear panels, just behind the driver's seat.... to get to go up or down again. Maybe getting in there, I grounded the aluminum on an exposed wire or something?

BTW, what is that cable looking thing that seems to come from out of the B pillar(whatever those things are that you got from Grego?).... and wraps around the last pillar support and then goes seemingly down and into the inner panel, under the window module...(the panel on the inner side, opposite of where I installed all this stuff? Just curious. Remind me to get a pic.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Is the gate closed really well, wiper in it stow place? Since you are hearing the relay, I suspect the tops switch like RAD mentioned. But you checked it already. Reconnect the plug to the motor and make sure it is getting a good connection. I had one of the pins to slide out on me one time.

The sound deading does alot for temp control and the noise level while riding in it. Sooo much nicer.

RAD4Runner

Chef, also check if new screws are hitting any thing?
Are you able to operate window using key switch?

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Great job Mark! you'll really appreciate the reduction in noise.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

mark lookin at the first vid your rear quarters are not original the red on the inner support an black of the fender those are replaced same shiny black anti rust like my new front fender someone put some serious $ on that rig those rear quarters are like 900 each (may be more)



great vid quality btw

Cyberhorn The Dragon

gas door opening cable at a quick guess

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Terry.... thanks for chiming in on this. Not sure why, but this is really upsetting me! lol. I know I'll figure it out, but it 'FEELS' like something totally gave up the ghost..... And, then there's that lingering feeling that "I may have caused this", which isn't helping, hehehe. BUT, when I keep thinking over this..... there's really NOTHING I did that would have put adequate pressure on the window module relay that would cause damage. And a short? WTH am I thinking? hehehe. I've heard that relay VERY OFTEN goes out? I have 3 spares.... Odd thing is.... Mine is gray... the spares, BOTH FROM 87'S.... are Off White. (I know, "Part numbers, Mark!", hehehe.

TERRY, .... are you saying it may be IN THE GATE, itself? Hmmmm.. Ok. I'll check that out. It's coming off anyhow to run the wiring.

Far as the rear... it's strange.... I notice how much wind and noise comes up through the drain gaps in the welds and drain slots, too. It's quite a bit. I WILL NOT seal them, don't worry, hahaha... I purposely left them open RIGHT at the welds, only.... That way, any condensation should only build up on the bottom at the beads and such themselves, ya know? So it has less space to travel. Plus, over a week, the Jack is not leaking, not even upside down for 24 hours as a test on the bench. Was just sharing that in case people have theirs open to fit in tight by pushing up against the outer edge of the jack mounting bracket. THAT'S NOT CORRECT, lol. I think I even read this in the owners manual.


What screws, mister? hehehe. The panel isn't on.... Are you saying "Mounting screws for certain relays"???? I'll check that in case that's what you mean.

NOPE, that's what I was saying, regarding the trying it from the rear.... When I turn the key back there, I hear one click. I'll keep the garage shut so I can hear really good and try it one more time...., BUT I WOULD SWEAR the click I hear is in the rear corner! .... It could just be resonating from the relay(that thing makes noise, right? The wiring where the 'Y' is, I thought might have gotten snapped during digging in there... BUT I Looked, it's still fixed to the retaining clip and it was never even hardly rubbed against, let alone tugged on. The wiring by/behind the jack did get manipulated a lil bit.... but again, I'm just not sure that it was enough to cause a bad compromise. I don't wanna tear open the harness until I make sure 'everything else checks out', ya know?

THANKS, MAN! I was starting to think I did it all wrong hahaha. JK, .... I appreciate that, man.... You do really nice work, so that means a lot.

Wow, Hmmmm, .... Yeah, I don't know. All the pinch welds and everything look original... Maybe the Original owner, when he bought it new, decided to put in more rust proof stuff? lol. Are those fenders glossy? The ones in my truck are... More medium gloss, ya know?

Thanks on the Vid Quality part.. I'm pretty pleased with this Canon P&Shoot

ahhhhhhh, .. maybe, yes. does it start on the rear driver side and travel over to the passenger side like that? The cable seems prettyyyyyyyyy small, if that's what it is... But it DEFINITELY looks like a cable housing plastic thingymadoer type stuff, lol. I'll follow it. Thanks!

I really have to figure out this 'REAR WINDOW WONT OPERATE' issue, guys... Please walk through this with me? I just wanna be sure I check over every sensor/switch/limit switch before I tear into wiring and such. I never really manipulated it that much, so I just wonder....

REMEMBER; >>>>

* For some time now, I've had SOME issue with the 'Rear Window Relay Module'. I have to rap on the panel on occasions to get the window to operate. ISN'T THAT POSSIBLYYYYYYY TELLING?

RAD4Runner

By new screw I meant the longer screws used on tailgate panel. Could one hit anything behind the panel?

You also said you heard one click. Suggests something tripped or fuse blew. Power comes into window relay at terminal 6 (light blue wire on 88 schematic but Blue with black stripe on my 86). Find it on connector and probe for 12V


If no voltage there:
20A circuit breaker, piggybacked on forward side of driver side kick panel powers the window relay. One with yellow cap here:


Unplug that circuit breaker.
Probe terminal 4 (White Wire) for +12V.
Measure resistance across breaker. Should be zero.

If you have power to Window relay at term 6:
Try grounding relay terminals directly to chassis:
Term 5 / UP (red-yel stripe)
Term 4 / Down (Grn-yel stripe)
Term 12/UP (Light Blu-blk stripe)
Term 11/Down (Light Blu-Wht stripe)
If above work, problem is between "that Y-spice", to cover off switch to Door lock detec switch to chassis ground.