RAD4Runner

Looks good, Chef. But what's wrong with the old tailgate panel? Consider covering new one with something water/dirt-proof? I found good candidate material- shower tub pan liner (40-mil PVC). IF you can find heavy duty tarpaulin, good too. Or diamond-plate pattern rubber? hah-hah! so many ideas. I feel like a tweaker. Ok Ok, just a brainstormer LOL!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Just trying out my new Camera with a lil video... but kinda explaining(Poorly, I'm sure, hahaha).. what RAD and I were speaking about, in regards to wedging the sub boxl(after some cuts/resealing of the box) in between the Roll BARS, up on the wheel hump... YEP, I TOTALLY, 100% believe it can be done... just a lil more figuring on how to seal it up. It's gonna have to be on the passenger side.... just too much work to route all that wiring through/around the box... then wire in all my switches.. then be able to get to the wiring or window relay module or ANYTHING thereafter, lol... SO, Passenger side it is, IF I build this thing..... (PS> HEY RAD! hahaha... just saw your post above me... I'll answer in a bit.)

Cyberhorn The Dragon

if your trying to seal a speaker box chef a good silicone non hardening type is best it'll flex with the sound vibrations an such an not lose its seal (my long dead 6x9's behind the seat in my 79 i built them with aquarium silicone no odor (would be toxic to the fish) waterproof sealing and very good stuff just an idea cant paint it though nothin sticks to it once harden/cured

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the ideas, Dragon How you doing, man?

************************************************** *********

Ok guys;

I can NOT find my Spade bits.... ...... So I was all ready to go, finish up the tailgate.... Then I realized I couldn't find them... so I couldn't do the recess into them that I wanted in order to get the screws to mount fully into the Expansion Nuts(OEM white plastic expansion nuts in the tailgate).... So I'll probably pick that up tomorrow from Harbor Freight/but more likely a Kobalt, at least, from Lowes, just the one I need(I HATE BUYING TOOLS that I KNOW I already have, grrrr, lol)

************************************************** *************

RAD, I thought about what you said. First, to explain, ... and I'll get pics, ... my tailgate panel is TOAST! lol... to put it simply anyway. There are several cracks on the backside from putting knee on there or sitting on it, etc. It's cheap project board... And while I'm sure it was solid at some point... it's NOT NOW, lol.

The way this tailgate is set up... it's VERY difficult to make sure the center portion of the gate panel(which is essentially supported from behind by the thin metal window motor cover that's held in with 4 screws) The metal cover is corrugated, yes... BUT, it's VERY much prone to caving in... which mine was, if you remember the video I did. I am really racking my brain trying to think of a way to support beam it under the panel, etc... BUT, it's nearly impossible, because the center portion sits RIGHT AGAINST that sheet metal/corrugated cover. GRRRRRRR!

ANY IDEAS?

************************************************** ***************

And still? .................

........I have to figure out the best way to cover. The problem with the Carpet, and I THINK I could use that charcoal colored/rubber backed "Bed Rug" stuff to make it sealed really well...and carpeted at the same time, ya know? ...AND, need something for 'EDGING' of the carpet... Where it would go OVER the edge of the wood, tack to the back of the project board like my carpet now does over the cover/project panel that's OEM.

I'm not TOTALLY against using something else, like 'back seat rubber diamond plated floor mat' material? ... BUT, ...I think that's just too industrial for me, RAD... I'd much rather have carpet there to hop up on and sit there/something I wouldn't mind my feet being up against as I wake up on a cold winter camping trip morning, ya know? hahaha.

Lil frustrated with the hang ups... But I just wanna do a really nice AND STURDY job, ya know? As long as it's cut and beveled right, the gate cover will be strong enough... I just have to remember that it's not meant to support over 200#, lol... I think the tailgate and panels being in that BEDRUG stuff would look great in contrast to the stock Gray Carpet and lighter gray seat backs, ...maybe? We'll find out! lol... Cuz that Gray nice carpet I have that's really tight knit? It's got NO backing... so I'd have to add that somehow, .... just too much work. It might be fine for the side panels.. but not the tailgate. And I'd like all 3 to match. So looks like it's BEDRUG all around the sides and gate.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

BTW.... just noticed this about the 2nd Gen 4Runner Tailgate... NO EXPOSED SCREWS! I likey... BUT, it's all 'POP IN'... which I no likey, haha. Seems it would be secure, sure.. BUT, ..... after time, I would think it would rattle.

anyway, this guy did a GREAT 'snip' collection of video all pieced together to show how to assemble the 2nd Gen Tailgate with window and all, lol.... I've seen a few of his Videos... makes it look easy, right? hehe. It is, pretty much.. But the window part? Yeah... REALLY makes that appear as easy as it should be >>>

PS> If you just want to see what I'm talking about on the tailgate of the 2nd Gen 4runners.... just go toward the end, last minute or so........

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thought I'd share this as well, I know many have asked about this.......... Vinyl complete Kits, molded, for 87 4Runner(I'm sure for all)..........

http://www.varkmotors.com/1987-TOYOT...E_p_59036.html

This is the factory Color Carpet Section from their site... NOT BAD for the quality... and it's all poly backed for that price, or "Mass backed" for another 150$ ... from what I could see on the video I watched of some guy installing a jeep kit. IN THIS PAGE, it clearly says, "Back panel and wheel wells"..... So I'm not sure if that includes the tailgate... I was just looking elsewhere and ran into this... thought, "Hey, someone could carpet their 4Runner with a VERY nice set up for pretty cheap.. why not???? " lol...>>

http://www.varkmotors.com/1987-TOYOT...S_p_51139.html

***********************

something like this would work great to seal off the project panel...but appears to only be in HUGE rolls, lol... I'm thinking of hitting Joann's Fabric or Michaels tomorrow to grab the edging for the wood, then I can just do separate edging for the carpet... And I have an idea... I think I can mount the panel once covered to the gate.... then mount industrial velco that I have OVER the top of the panel to stick the carpet to.... Then the screws wouldn't be exposed and I could even add a layer of padding behind the carpet to make it 'cush', ya know? Just thinking out loud.. This kinda stuff is what I was talking about.........>>

http://www.homedepot.com/Flooring-Ga...1#.UIO9MdfP4WY

It's gray, too! lol... Would be great to do your panels in with padding under the vinyl... Easy clean up, etc. I just don't like the plastic as much as carpet... BUT, ..... it would work well and still look pretty factory, ya know?

*********************************************

Hey, check this out>>>>>>>>

http://www.joann.com/vinyl-arctic-grey/prd19510/

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Mark that vinyl from Joanns looks just like the stuff I used on my door panel arm rests...same price, color, and material. Also, if interested, I have plenty of charcoal grey speaker box carpet. It's the stuff I used on my cab rear wall panel.

RAD4Runner

Or you could simply use think aluminum plate, instead of project panel and wrap it with your choice of carpet/vinyl.

How about this, Chef?


I also like this diamond plate vinyl mat. Around 1/16-inch thick. Not sure where to buy- maybe home depot. If my tailgate panel were trashed, I'd consider thin aluminum sheet (1/16-inch) topped with this.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Grego, ...THANKS, MAN! I really appreciate that, Bud, ... honest. I guess I could get this tailgate done for now, ...then wire up the stuff's I'm doing... make sure I have enough of the BEDRUG type stuff to do also the side panels... and then, .... see if I need more for the Speaker install.

You have any thoughts on what I said in the video, Grego? HONEST, I'm pretty thick skinned, ....but more importantly, I WELCOME, ''NOOOOOO, DON'T DO THAT!''... Heck, if it's gonna save me time or money, especially, or if it's just not something that's gonna work, ya know? LEMME KNOW! lol. I hope people understand what I mean by the panels acting as a support for the speaker box, rather than support the speaker all together, right? I DO USE those slots between the roll bar and panels... I slip gear in there, when camping... BUT, I'll soon have my Con-Ferr, which I didn't even think of, and NO PROBLEM getting all the shovels and rakes and everything i need onto the Con-Ferr and making WAY more room in the back. I have a Swiss Army Brand(Wargner?) Waterproof Gortex Tote for the roof, too!!! You guys WILL LIKE ALL THIS, if I can ever get it all started and then DONE! lol. But please, ANY THOUGHTS on what you would do, instead, or so forth.. PLEASE, share, k?

RAD, once again, I greatly appreciate you writing that up, man! Yeah, I was thinking of that, just last night, and I can't really think of a way, save welding up something that goes in every available spot, using the portions near bends as they're FAR stronger, to support the 'SUPPORT' apparatus... BUT, SURE, things like you just posted could work. Not sure on the foam in that slot thing... I think as You put your weight on the gate(THINK ABOUT IT, YOU HAVE TO, even just sliding out of the back to use the restroom at night.... IT NEEDS TO take weight. I'm sure it took a few years to start becoming compromised..... But once it develops stress fractures, ... it's over. It always seems to be due to 'sitting on the gate', or 'up on one knee on the gate, reaching in the back for something', type stuff that does them in. OH YEAH, 25 YEARS OF TIME AND CONDENSATION, that doesn't help, hahahah... And yes, I'm a big guy... that doesn't help the tailgate panel/has hurt it over time.

My biggest problem is getting the screws to seat all the way, ESPECIALLY after I add a layer of carpet. So I think I'll have to add the longer screws to the list.. and DANG, I bet it'll be difficult to find that thread, etc. But I'll try to get close, ya know? I don't want to use the spade bit, now that I think about it, because it would bring the thickness of this panel down to nothing in those screws areas... and then it would just pop through over time/with any weight on it, ya know?

What I'm wondering... Do you mean to add that stuff UNDER THE CORRUGATED COVER, RAD? I'm a lil confused on that. >>>>>

The metal motor and regulator cover. I will get a pic today... but it's in my video on 'repairing the tailgate cables'.

RAD4Runner

[QUOTE=ChefYota4x4;51988667]...
My biggest problem is getting the screws to seat all the way, ESPECIALLY after I add a layer of carpet. So I think I'll have to add the longer screws to the list..[QUOTE] Longer screws would be the way to go. Should not be too hard to find screws with nice contoured washers (forgot what they're called)

Basically build up any part of the frame to level with top of expansion nuts to help distribute force on panel.

I think a long lasting fix would be aluminum or Lexan panel topped with carpet or diamond plate pad. To make sure you got Lexan and not Plexiglas, test with baseball bat first - LOL!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Off to Home depot to look into some longer screws..... MAYBE some new expansion nuts... but I doubt it. Nothing else is going to work here, as these are risen/like a spacer, keeping the cover up off the metal. It's hard to believe, but the extra 8th-16th" or so thicker panel is keeping the screws from ADEQUATELY seating. And I don't want to cut out with the spade, as I said, because then the project board will be more and more compromised(it's only 1/4 thick)... And, if I use the .41"/actual/ Birch that I have.... IT WOULD WORK, ... but, again, I'd have to sink the screw washer holes PRETTY DEEP, just to get the screws to bite enough, ya know?

SO, I could either;

1. Use the birch and just be done with the 'THIS IS STRONG ENOUGH TO SIT ON ALL DAY'- factor.... Just spade drill bit it out to where the screws will fit....

2. Use the .41" birch and JUST USE LONGER SCREWS, ...and still have a stronger gate panel.

3. Use the Project board/ .25"(actual is .22"???) ... and use longer screws?

I think #1 is sounding better and better! lol. I WANNA BE DONE WITH THIS! But more so, wanna do it right to where it will last til my Grandson/Grandaughter are driving, ya feel me?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

[quote=RAD4Runner;51988680][quote=ChefYota4x4;51988667]...
My biggest problem is getting the screws to seat all the way, ESPECIALLY after I add a layer of carpet. So I think I'll have to add the longer screws to the list..Hey man..... Ya know, that Corrugated Window Motor Cover, etc... that metal one? It brings it all up level with the top of those expansion nuts, RAD..... It just caves in a lil cuz the panel was so caved in in the center, ya know? I think a stronger wood would do the trick, maybe????

jason in tn

Im glad to see you working on you tail gate cover mark. I have to work on mine to as in build it from scratch lol. looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

You're doing a great job going through all the options. I think you'll be happy with the results you choose, you have to with all the thinking you're putting into it.....at some point you just gotta make a decision with the knowledge and ideas you have, execute it, and make revisions along the way as necessary.

RAD4Runner

[QUOTE=ChefYota4x4;51988687][quote=RAD4Runner;51988680]So... yep, looks like longer screws would be simplest, least expensive and yet robust and clean enuf solution.

BTW, I like that Vinyl. Wonder how it would feel as carpet replacement. So floor wud just be spray and wipe. One thing's for sure, using that would give you that new-car smell I wud use it to cover my replacement rear panel.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Before I respond... I just want to point out...... WTH is it with me and computers? haha... This is a silly one..... , but; Whenever I'm on MY OWN thread, last page, after clicking on whomever was last, from my User CP.... I CAN NOT MULTI QUOTE! If I go back a page, usually it will work... Go to the front page? YEP! As I said, it's silly, but ANNOYING, ya know? After 14,600 Posts or so... I figure I should just get used to it I guess? NOPE! lol. I have to 'quote', then copy, quote the next persons text... then copy and ... you get the picture, lol.

Anywayyyyyyyyyyyy, >>>>>>>

Thanks, Jason.... I know it should be 'wam bam thank you maam' type deal... but it's NOT, for me at least. (It 'WAS NOT', I should say ) ..... I will GLADLY shoot you the measurements if you'd like... shouldn't be difficult. I'd be glad to, ok? (I could just make out a template on cardboard if you want... fold it up and slap it in a flat rate small box? ) ONLY thing I gotta ask you... and this is very important......... 'YOU HAVE THE WHITE EXPANSION NUTS, RIGHT? ' ....... You absolutely HAVE to do something to simulate that, if not. I personally would want them out of another rig... I will gladly keep my eyes open at the yard if I can get there again. BUT, they're ONLY in first gens ....... So, as I said, if I see one... they're yours, k? (IF you don't have them, of course... You may, so never mind this if so). I will be doing a FULL WRITE UP on this with video.. Because there are MANY options and many things can go wrong that would mean you wasted your time and have to start over, etc. Also, take EXTRA care in carefully pounding out the regulator metal corrugated cover, if it's tweeked. that's your ONLY support in the center... And after going over it with RAD.......... I just don't see a lot of options in that dept. without using .41" Birch or welding in cross bars that YOU CAN STILL REMOVE so you can get to the internals/remove the regulator, etc., etc. ........

Lemme know if I can help, Jason, K?

Hey Buddy... appreciate the support... it's been CRAZY, "LIFE" has, ...then to add all these different projects that I've NEVER done, ...then to run into one 'tricky variable' after another in the 'constructing' of them, etc..... it was an adventure. YEP, "WAS", meaning, I'm done with the panel, pretty much. I explain in a video I'm uploading... But it says 68 Minutes left.... ...... I think that's because I'm now using a Canon with 1080p HD Video... so unfortunately, it takes longer.. Fortunately, it takes pretty good video with MUCH better sound(and it's smaller, so I can get it onto my suction windshield mount thingy ) hahaha. I hear ya on the "at some point".......... But that's just it... I had to REALLY weigh out the options and do geometric hypothetical plans to see if the 'STRONGEST' option would work.../how much more work it would be.../ how feasible it would be without compromising the stronger wood AND making the carpet sink much worse in those spade bit recesses... etc. SO, .... In the end, I think I'm VERY happy with what I chose to do, and I HOPE others can use this method as well. NOPE, it's not rocket science.... , yet while I can't speak for anyone else... , I can say, from my perspective having now done it... "it's not as simple as you're planning it out to be in your head", hahaha. I included the screw numbers I used and everything in the video.. so pretty much ANYONE could go to Home Depot or Lowes and grab a few things for around 12$...... Then granting you had the tools, the carpet would run you around 20$(for quality Auto Carpet or even a roll of 5x6 from BigLots/Enough to do the tailgate AND panels, btw! )..... HECK, maybe you already have carpet..... And, you COULD use that Anti-Fatigue Diamond plated stuff over the wood, held on by velcro or something..., then the screws would be hidden... Personally, I didn't want to do that, and I figure, ... I COULD just put velcro on the back of the mat I have, a nice cut out... then just stick it right to the carpet.... Voila, I have Closed Cell Foam on my tailgate when I want it.




Hey RAD, ... mentioned everything I need to, above in the other comments.

Far as the Vinyl though.. Yeah, it's pretty nice stuff. 19.99 for what would be enough, I think. 2x4' Sheets for 20$... not bad, I guess. The garage flooring stuff though? NOPE! Gotta buy like 220$ worth at 1.92$ a sq. foot. I'D LOVE it in my garage, hahaha.. But for interior work, unless I was gonna floor my garage with it and had some left over? NAHHHHHHH! lol.

The Joann's one, I think you meant? Yeah, that might work. Would cost you 40$ to have enough to do the 2 panels and tailgate. AND, you could use padding underneath it.... that's cheap too. That might really work well on the side panels, anyway. Closed Cell foam under Vinyl?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

FINALLY got part of my "REAR CARGO 1ST GEN 4RUNNER MOD/RESTO/UPGRADE PROJECT" mostly done .........

So I first, traced and then cut out my .25" Project board/then drilled out out the holes for the superwashers & screws that go over the carpet/ ... for the rear gate panel.....





Picked up some stuff like "BEDRUG", which I'll be using on my side panels as well... THIS STUFF IS LIKE HAMMERPROOF! haha... I had to use sheers, as RAZOR wouldn't work very well.........



Then, Using thicker than stock project board.... I ended up having to find longer 10x1 wood screws to replace the stock ones, as they wouldn't sink far enough to 'EXPAND' the expansion nuts on the inside of the metal panel below/inside the tailgate area(It also had to get through this thick rubberized carpet... and I was BARELY getting the stock screws in those special washers to bite, EVEN WITHOUT the carpet... So, off to Home Depot and the ONLY THING I could find that worked.....



Then cut out the CARPET to fit.........



Then stretched it out during each new screw install, and VOILA! >>>





******************

I really am happy with how it looks/how it turned out....... And it's MUCH stronger than it was. The carpet matches the darker plastic panels pretty well... Kinda cool lil contrast from everything else being light gray and STAIN MAGNET HAPPY! lol.... This stuff is HIGHLY waterproof and VERY durable..... It should last me as long as I need it, as long as I take care to not light it on fire or anything, ya know? hahaha.

Saved the video for last >>>

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'm going to move onto the side panels now... Trying to think of the best way to do the corners. I think there is floor-to-wall edging that might work GREAT!

Just curious.... Do you think I might have trouble getting this .41" Birch up and over back seat latch... AND, how about getting the original charcoal trim that "pretties up" the topper/body joining?

Cyberhorn The Dragon

looks good mark as for edging any of the birch shows you could spray it black an is good an hid

RBX

I just covered my panels with some sunbrella fabric and upholstery glue. Those panels are brittle but once I added the fabric it shored things up nicely.
For the sub mount I just used some vinyl stock I had to make the mount onto the sheet metal where the panel mounts, but one could use wood instead. There are a few pics in my thread when I was wiring and insulating.