ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
06-02-2010, 03:45 PM
#482
Are you having different problems than before? Or did yours just appear slowly but surely, as mine did? The weird thing(WELL, ONE OF THEM! LOL) is that, as I said, "Before I had any problems, it purred, months ago....then it started giving me crap fully cold. I replaced the O2 with a Bosch(NO-NO #108 ON YOTATECH, LOL) and it didn't help MUCH, but helped. Then, I did the Dealer Denso, and the problem turned into CRAPPY after initial open loop but fine cold. Also, it turned to ok after fully warm, .....so DANG if this isn't the most difficult inanimate object I've ever tackled, ya know????? lol.
I'm also going to check the EFI relay and others on both side/kick panels, because on the pass. side I MIGHT have had water leaking in(although the ECU and most everything looks good and rust free), and on the DRIVER SIDE; Leaking Clutch master for QUITE some time. I'm not Relay expert, but that could just have caused some corrosion. Weird thing is,.....it didn't cause any on the panel behind the relay box. I'll check it out though. I've heard SO MANY stories of bad Open Circuit relays and other fuses, due to water damage.....so MAYBE? lol.
I'm also going to check the EFI relay and others on both side/kick panels, because on the pass. side I MIGHT have had water leaking in(although the ECU and most everything looks good and rust free), and on the DRIVER SIDE; Leaking Clutch master for QUITE some time. I'm not Relay expert, but that could just have caused some corrosion. Weird thing is,.....it didn't cause any on the panel behind the relay box. I'll check it out though. I've heard SO MANY stories of bad Open Circuit relays and other fuses, due to water damage.....so MAYBE? lol.
06-02-2010, 05:37 PM
#483
Rob, ......please don't cry? I feel bad enough for not having it PURRING by now! LOLOL.
So, anywhooooooo, I guess I'll write to myself(and y'all for later when if you sign in). Hahaha...
Ok, I was having a problem getting the OEM Denso Coolant Temp sensor in SNUG! Grrrrrrrrr, lol. It has these slits in the bolt-head section of the sensor, dead center of the bolt-head surface. It's so snug in there, you really need a deep-socket to remove or tighten it. The Napa one came right out with the 19mm deep socket....the OEM WOULD NOT let the same socket go more than BARELY over the head of the bolt, and a 21 was the only other one I had, ....TOO LOOSE! grrrrrrrrr, lol. LUCKILY, my neighbor pulled up 20 min ago and lent me a snap on soft corner 20mm socket. He didn't have a 19mm, and the 20 WORKED, fhewwwwwwww, hehehe. So, now I'm just waiting for the threadseal on the BVSV to dry, and I'll give it a fire up. After, of course, replacing the coolant I removed.
I'll let you know ASAP, guys, if it solves my issue or not. I doubt it, but WHO KNOWS, EH? lol.
PS> On a tangent, I REALLY want to see "Splice", ....it looks INSANE! Recently saw Prince of Persia with Mom and Stepdad, and we saw Iron Man 2 a couple days before that. 2 weeks ago, I saw Robin Hood with Russell Crowe, and I have to say, EVERY ONE OF THEM was good, including Prince of Persia(Disney). FINALLY catching up on my movies! lol. Love Adrian Brody, and the movie looks great, so I'll tell you what I thought asa-I see it!
Ok, I'm done! lol
So, anywhooooooo, I guess I'll write to myself(and y'all for later when if you sign in). Hahaha...
Ok, I was having a problem getting the OEM Denso Coolant Temp sensor in SNUG! Grrrrrrrrr, lol. It has these slits in the bolt-head section of the sensor, dead center of the bolt-head surface. It's so snug in there, you really need a deep-socket to remove or tighten it. The Napa one came right out with the 19mm deep socket....the OEM WOULD NOT let the same socket go more than BARELY over the head of the bolt, and a 21 was the only other one I had, ....TOO LOOSE! grrrrrrrrr, lol. LUCKILY, my neighbor pulled up 20 min ago and lent me a snap on soft corner 20mm socket. He didn't have a 19mm, and the 20 WORKED, fhewwwwwwww, hehehe. So, now I'm just waiting for the threadseal on the BVSV to dry, and I'll give it a fire up. After, of course, replacing the coolant I removed.
I'll let you know ASAP, guys, if it solves my issue or not. I doubt it, but WHO KNOWS, EH? lol.
PS> On a tangent, I REALLY want to see "Splice", ....it looks INSANE! Recently saw Prince of Persia with Mom and Stepdad, and we saw Iron Man 2 a couple days before that. 2 weeks ago, I saw Robin Hood with Russell Crowe, and I have to say, EVERY ONE OF THEM was good, including Prince of Persia(Disney). FINALLY catching up on my movies! lol. Love Adrian Brody, and the movie looks great, so I'll tell you what I thought asa-I see it!
Ok, I'm done! lol
06-03-2010, 08:28 AM
#485
Wow, .....was that for me? THANKS, MAN! lol....
Well, I'ma head out in about and hour and fire her up....see where I'm at, so to speak. The AFM should get here by tomorrow or Saturday, but NEVER KNOW....I've seen UPS get stuff here in 2 days, GROUND, FROM FLORIDA! lol...I know, that one shocked me. Oh well, why stress it, eh? I mean, after all this time, taking my time, why would I rush now. I guess it's just more frustrating to have put a lot into something and then have it STILL doing the same thing as before, hahahaha. Oh well, eventually, I'll figure this out.
Thanks alot, Rob, for all the support and ideas. You guys have been great!
I'll update later,
Mark
Well, I'ma head out in about and hour and fire her up....see where I'm at, so to speak. The AFM should get here by tomorrow or Saturday, but NEVER KNOW....I've seen UPS get stuff here in 2 days, GROUND, FROM FLORIDA! lol...I know, that one shocked me. Oh well, why stress it, eh? I mean, after all this time, taking my time, why would I rush now. I guess it's just more frustrating to have put a lot into something and then have it STILL doing the same thing as before, hahahaha. Oh well, eventually, I'll figure this out.
Thanks alot, Rob, for all the support and ideas. You guys have been great!
I'll update later,
Mark
06-03-2010, 08:36 AM
#486
Registered User
Mark, Hows she comin!? I've been pondering your issues, but I can't really come up with anything else besides what I suggested before 
I hope its that AFM, then its just plug and play! Good luck man, and if I think of anything good I'll let you know haha.
I hope its that AFM, then its just plug and play! Good luck man, and if I think of anything good I'll let you know haha.
06-03-2010, 11:10 AM
#488
***UPDATE***
Sorry guys, the coolant temp sensor did NOT fix it. However, I feel more comfortable having a denso-dealer unit in there. Don't want to be having issues with the Napa one 30k down the road and trying to figure this all out again, ya know? lol
It seems to stay smooth a lil longer, since changing that Coolant Temp Sensor, but it's still doing the same thing. Also, while doing this, I pulled the BVSV and SEALED THAT SUCKA UP! ........It WORKED! So, now, OFFICIALLY; ''NO LEAKS''
So,
1. Process of Elimination of the following has been done(providing none of the new parts are screwing up);
a. New Denso o2
b. New Denso Coolant Temp Sensor
c. Newly Redone Injectors by RC, including CSInjector
d. All new Cap, Rotor, Denso-dealer Plugs, LCE 8.5 MM Wires
The AFM is in the mail and should be here in a couple days, ...maybe tomorrow if I'm lucky.....who knows, right? lol. That's my next item on the checklist, and I will be sure to multi-meter it as soon as it comes in, just to be sure it's not already doomed before I start. If that's not it, I guess I'm on to IACV and TPS, RIGHT?????????
Sorry guys, the coolant temp sensor did NOT fix it. However, I feel more comfortable having a denso-dealer unit in there. Don't want to be having issues with the Napa one 30k down the road and trying to figure this all out again, ya know? lol
It seems to stay smooth a lil longer, since changing that Coolant Temp Sensor, but it's still doing the same thing. Also, while doing this, I pulled the BVSV and SEALED THAT SUCKA UP! ........It WORKED! So, now, OFFICIALLY; ''NO LEAKS''
So,
1. Process of Elimination of the following has been done(providing none of the new parts are screwing up);
a. New Denso o2
b. New Denso Coolant Temp Sensor
c. Newly Redone Injectors by RC, including CSInjector
d. All new Cap, Rotor, Denso-dealer Plugs, LCE 8.5 MM Wires
The AFM is in the mail and should be here in a couple days, ...maybe tomorrow if I'm lucky.....who knows, right? lol. That's my next item on the checklist, and I will be sure to multi-meter it as soon as it comes in, just to be sure it's not already doomed before I start. If that's not it, I guess I'm on to IACV and TPS, RIGHT?????????
06-03-2010, 11:15 AM
#489
BTW;
Could this possibly be a fuel pump issue? Could it cause it to idle down and miss like this? I have the Bosch one to put in, and I just realized that I can change the fuel pump from inside the truck, under the back seats??????? GOOD LORD, I'd almost removed the tank bolts, have the guard removed, etc. I guess I'll check that out. Just wondering; Is a Denso sparkplug.com fuel pump for 128$ a good buy? Just curious why wholesale at dealer is 238$ and sparkplug.com is so much less. Any ideas on this, and as to whether or not it could be causing my problems?
Could this possibly be a fuel pump issue? Could it cause it to idle down and miss like this? I have the Bosch one to put in, and I just realized that I can change the fuel pump from inside the truck, under the back seats??????? GOOD LORD, I'd almost removed the tank bolts, have the guard removed, etc. I guess I'll check that out. Just wondering; Is a Denso sparkplug.com fuel pump for 128$ a good buy? Just curious why wholesale at dealer is 238$ and sparkplug.com is so much less. Any ideas on this, and as to whether or not it could be causing my problems?
06-03-2010, 12:46 PM
#491
Hey Rob! Howzit Bra? lol.........
Well, I just spoke to my neighbor who FINALLY got a hold of his buddy, in Temecula, CA, who is one of the most respected Toy'mechanics in Cali. He's rebuilt, modded and repaired THOUSANDS of 22rec's, ....so I'm going to listen to him, well, and at least try what he suggested.
He said, "MAN, I wish you were near here, I'd gladly take a look for ya(OMGOSH, HE HAS NO IDEA HOW MUCH I WISH THAT AS WELL! LOL). From everything you're telling me, going through my brain, right off the top of my head I would say it's the TPS or Thermo-Time Switch(Like an idiot, I forgot to ask him if that's the same as the coolant temp sensor, grrrrrrrrr). It could very well be the AFM, but they usually will screw up the TPS so badly, even if you get the new one in there, and it's good....you won't probably know because your TPS will have adjusted itself into oblivion! Try those three, and also do the test for the IACV, ...but I'm leaning away from that, mainly because, usually, when that is going out, it will fluctuate up and down, or stick at HIGH idle, not usually bog down till it's missing and such."
So, I guess I'm going to start there. AFM will be here in the next day or so, HOPEFULLY, and I'm going to keep an eye out for a TPS as well. Right now, however, I'm going to start reading into the 'Thermo-Time Switch'....since he's on vacation and I will NOT be able to get a hold of him for a while. NICE GUY, really wanted to help me quite a bit.....just like you guys! THANKS!
OH, Rob, btw,
I'm going to wait on the Fuel Pump...I have a new one, already, but he pretty much convinced me that it would not likely do what my truck is doing. He's really confirming in me that it's MOST LIKELY(not definitely) something temperature/sensor related. He also said that the O2 I got might have just been bad, but it's VERY unlikely.
Well, I just spoke to my neighbor who FINALLY got a hold of his buddy, in Temecula, CA, who is one of the most respected Toy'mechanics in Cali. He's rebuilt, modded and repaired THOUSANDS of 22rec's, ....so I'm going to listen to him, well, and at least try what he suggested.
He said, "MAN, I wish you were near here, I'd gladly take a look for ya(OMGOSH, HE HAS NO IDEA HOW MUCH I WISH THAT AS WELL! LOL). From everything you're telling me, going through my brain, right off the top of my head I would say it's the TPS or Thermo-Time Switch(Like an idiot, I forgot to ask him if that's the same as the coolant temp sensor, grrrrrrrrr). It could very well be the AFM, but they usually will screw up the TPS so badly, even if you get the new one in there, and it's good....you won't probably know because your TPS will have adjusted itself into oblivion! Try those three, and also do the test for the IACV, ...but I'm leaning away from that, mainly because, usually, when that is going out, it will fluctuate up and down, or stick at HIGH idle, not usually bog down till it's missing and such."
So, I guess I'm going to start there. AFM will be here in the next day or so, HOPEFULLY, and I'm going to keep an eye out for a TPS as well. Right now, however, I'm going to start reading into the 'Thermo-Time Switch'....since he's on vacation and I will NOT be able to get a hold of him for a while. NICE GUY, really wanted to help me quite a bit.....just like you guys! THANKS!
OH, Rob, btw,
I'm going to wait on the Fuel Pump...I have a new one, already, but he pretty much convinced me that it would not likely do what my truck is doing. He's really confirming in me that it's MOST LIKELY(not definitely) something temperature/sensor related. He also said that the O2 I got might have just been bad, but it's VERY unlikely.
06-03-2010, 01:58 PM
#492
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO
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I wish you the best of luck and this may sound silly, but thanks for your hard work, I am guessing it will help others in the future.
I also liked you comment on getting used to the "red", I guess that is something I will need to do also.
I also liked you comment on getting used to the "red", I guess that is something I will need to do also.
06-03-2010, 02:11 PM
#493
Silly? HECK NO! lol... Taken as nothing but compliment, and I'm grateful, Coops!
It's getting frustrating, ...I was humming right along(as you can see a few pages back, hahaha), and BLAMMO, when I should be starting it up and driving into the sunset.....'PFFFFFFSSSSSST', it slaps me in the mug! lol.
Well, at least I'll be able to help someone else, hopefully. I've really learned a lot, and I CAN'T STAND when people can't get any help....I figure, if they can learn from my problems, even if I HAVEN'T FIXED IT, lol, well then it's worth something, eh?
Have a good one, Coops, and if you have ANY CLUE, or any ideas, please share them, or have someone you know chime in. I'm hopefully getting close!
Chef
It's getting frustrating, ...I was humming right along(as you can see a few pages back, hahaha), and BLAMMO, when I should be starting it up and driving into the sunset.....'PFFFFFFSSSSSST', it slaps me in the mug! lol.
Well, at least I'll be able to help someone else, hopefully. I've really learned a lot, and I CAN'T STAND when people can't get any help....I figure, if they can learn from my problems, even if I HAVEN'T FIXED IT, lol, well then it's worth something, eh?
Have a good one, Coops, and if you have ANY CLUE, or any ideas, please share them, or have someone you know chime in. I'm hopefully getting close!
Chef
06-03-2010, 02:28 PM
#494
HERRO? lol........
I'm just trying to find out if anyone has used Statracing.com. They have what appears to be a new TPS for 115$ or so, and they have 1 left. So, just curious if I should grab it or wait. I figured, though, that "what could it hurt to put a new TPS in, right? I mean, mine has 260K miles on it, plus the readings I originally had were a lil goofy. I'm going to check it again, first, and then I'll check back. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
BTW> 92 got his Ebrake fixed! WOOT WOOT!lol
I'm just trying to find out if anyone has used Statracing.com. They have what appears to be a new TPS for 115$ or so, and they have 1 left. So, just curious if I should grab it or wait. I figured, though, that "what could it hurt to put a new TPS in, right? I mean, mine has 260K miles on it, plus the readings I originally had were a lil goofy. I'm going to check it again, first, and then I'll check back. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
BTW> 92 got his Ebrake fixed! WOOT WOOT!lol
06-03-2010, 02:38 PM
#495
Oy Vey! My older homie at Toyota dealer says he'll do his 20% for me bringing it to 114$....and it's on the shelf. I'ma grab it, and he said I can return it if it aint the problem! I"M OUTTIE! lol.........
BBl8r, and PLEASE, chime in guys, let's make it a guessing game? I'll ship some of my prize winning cookies to the guy who guesses right! NO KIDDING, I will! HAHAHA!
BBl8r, and PLEASE, chime in guys, let's make it a guessing game? I'll ship some of my prize winning cookies to the guy who guesses right! NO KIDDING, I will! HAHAHA!
06-03-2010, 03:21 PM
#497
Hey, chef
Sorry i'm late to the party but i figure i could chime in with some experience for what it's worth. I have yet to read all of the posts on your build but will offer some pionters any way so if you've covered ground i'm already suggesting i appollogise. Your tps is my first guess and purchasing a volt meter will be the first step in the right direction when testing it. $crawler's site helped me a ton when changing and setting my tps when i replaced it. If you ever cleaned the throttle body with that little sucker still on there you most likely fudged it up. Just to make sure you checked the intake tube for cracks right? i noticed it's new but is it fitted snugly? As far as i know the thermo switch is below the intake right under the throttle body but don't quote me on that one. Have you unplugged the tps to see if anything changes? And how is the gasket between the throttle body and upper intake? The afm could be you're culprit but you would need to check it with a volt meter to really narrow it down. I had a similar situation and replaced a load of stuff. All helped a little but none definatly solved everything. There's another thread titled idle issues comprehensive or some thing like that that just might have pertanant info on your problem. I know a few of us chimed in with some good ideas and direction on that thread.
Other ideas that come to mind...... Well you said and correct me if i'm wrong the truck idles crappy after the 22re warms up right. How is it under load? Still gutless? Check for bubbles in thew coolant might not be bled out all the way. My 22re ran like crap if the coolant is low or has and air pocket. From personal experience recently my head gasket blew ( not saying it's you specific problem but just shooting hear) Coolant would be pushed out of the radiator and into the resevior. I was loosing compression under load due to the gasket failing at # 4 cylinder next to the water jeacket. Eventually the gasket gave out and i had little or no compression in said cylinder but the truck would fire right up and eventually run fine untill i put load on the motor. 4 hours later and a lot of cussing the head gasket was off and to the machine shop the head went. Another 10 hours to put every thing back togethor and the re runs like new again.
I'm sure you've stood out there looking over the motor for any clue to what's going on with it. Lord knows i did that as well when trying to figure out why mine was running poorly. So you know your engine bay pretty well i assume right? Start looking at pics of engines and see what might or could be out of place. It might be that simple. God bless man i know you'll get it figured out.
Also start making check lists of what you've replaced or checked. I have that fun little thing called ADD and if i don't check myself with a list or two i start to question myself and go over things i already chased. The list thing might sound simple but it's saved me some valuable time.
Sorry i'm late to the party but i figure i could chime in with some experience for what it's worth. I have yet to read all of the posts on your build but will offer some pionters any way so if you've covered ground i'm already suggesting i appollogise. Your tps is my first guess and purchasing a volt meter will be the first step in the right direction when testing it. $crawler's site helped me a ton when changing and setting my tps when i replaced it. If you ever cleaned the throttle body with that little sucker still on there you most likely fudged it up. Just to make sure you checked the intake tube for cracks right? i noticed it's new but is it fitted snugly? As far as i know the thermo switch is below the intake right under the throttle body but don't quote me on that one. Have you unplugged the tps to see if anything changes? And how is the gasket between the throttle body and upper intake? The afm could be you're culprit but you would need to check it with a volt meter to really narrow it down. I had a similar situation and replaced a load of stuff. All helped a little but none definatly solved everything. There's another thread titled idle issues comprehensive or some thing like that that just might have pertanant info on your problem. I know a few of us chimed in with some good ideas and direction on that thread.
Other ideas that come to mind...... Well you said and correct me if i'm wrong the truck idles crappy after the 22re warms up right. How is it under load? Still gutless? Check for bubbles in thew coolant might not be bled out all the way. My 22re ran like crap if the coolant is low or has and air pocket. From personal experience recently my head gasket blew ( not saying it's you specific problem but just shooting hear) Coolant would be pushed out of the radiator and into the resevior. I was loosing compression under load due to the gasket failing at # 4 cylinder next to the water jeacket. Eventually the gasket gave out and i had little or no compression in said cylinder but the truck would fire right up and eventually run fine untill i put load on the motor. 4 hours later and a lot of cussing the head gasket was off and to the machine shop the head went. Another 10 hours to put every thing back togethor and the re runs like new again.
I'm sure you've stood out there looking over the motor for any clue to what's going on with it. Lord knows i did that as well when trying to figure out why mine was running poorly. So you know your engine bay pretty well i assume right? Start looking at pics of engines and see what might or could be out of place. It might be that simple. God bless man i know you'll get it figured out.
Also start making check lists of what you've replaced or checked. I have that fun little thing called ADD and if i don't check myself with a list or two i start to question myself and go over things i already chased. The list thing might sound simple but it's saved me some valuable time.
06-03-2010, 08:52 PM
#498
Mighty Mouse, THANK YOU, BROTHER, ...seriously, I appreciate you taking the time to put all that in.
Ok, well;
The TPS: Checked it before the build, but after the new radiator/waterpump and Thermostat. It was REALLY hard for me to read that one. I was getting a couple goofy readings, but as I remember, no one suggested, "WOE, THAT THING IS TOAST".....
Vacuum: When doing this build, I took EXTRA time and replaced, literally, EVERY vacuum line, including the large, IACV ones, PCV and front-Large Hose with OEM hoses(TRUST ME, I WAS RAPED, Bout 90$ for all 4, BUT well worth knowing I have the best). The only line I haven't replaced was the Big one on the throttle body to the Idle Up/Steering Vacuum valve(or whatever it's called)....have a story on that one, .....later. lol
Intake AIR: I got a Brand NEW Throttle body to Air Tube elbow(the slinky one, hahaha), for 30$ on ebay, from AM-Motors or something like that. I"ve seen them alot. It seems to be good quality and MOST DEFINITELY has no leaks. The other hose to AFM is from LCE and it's VERY high gauge and quality, and tight as well.
A couple things I might have mentioned, not sure, are that; The other day, when getting the truck back from the dealer, I noticed that it was running worse, just slightly...It was wanting to stall, and in fact, it did. I adjusted that idle up screw in, because I COULD HAVE SWORN I'd screwed it out for some reason, and it stayed running.....but the problem was still EXACTLY the same.
The other thing, worth mentioning, is that I got a can of AFM cleaner, before I did ANYTHING, and Cleaned the AFM by the directions.......and btw, it was ALREADY doing what it continued to do, afterward.
Before I did any repairs(the VERY FIRST being the new Radiator, Water Pump and Thermostat), I was having issues, which caused me to bring it in to Toyo-Auto. He never even kept it but an hour, calling me back, saying, "It's overheating, really bad, you need to fix that before I can diagnose or even try to diagnose ANYTHING, ok?" I returned, carefully drove it home and then got the radiator, water pump and thermostat, ......it stopped overheating, but the problem remained. I went on to smog it, thinking it wouldn't pass, behaving so erratically, ....but IT DID!
Weeks later, I did a Seafoam, PCV and Booster, drove it around a bit, .......but the problem remained. I had also, before that, used a whole can in two tanks of gas.....which is why I moved on to the PCV and Booster. lol
I then figured, WHAT THE HECK, and began to tear into it. Most of you know the rest. I was anywhere from 100-1000 miles from snapping off the COG key and completely crushing the entire motor, valves and all. So, I figured, good thing I decided to do a rebuild. Did the rebuild, and now here I am, with the SAME FRIGGEN PROBLEM! lol.
Just to simplify, the MOTOR, top to bottom is NEW, Valve Cover to Oil pan, k? Aside from that, before and after the build, I've done;
1. Denso O2 Sensor
2. Denso Coolant Temp Sensor
3. Denso Plugs
4. New Cap-rotor and LCE 8.5 MM Wires
5. New Radiator, Water Pump and Thermostat
6. New Reman. Denso Alternator
7. Re-done and 190 across the board reading on Injectors and CSInjector as well by RC
8. New Daikin HD Clutch, Clutch Slave(w/fresh boot) and Master as well
I have NO LIQUID leaks, NO vacuum leaks that I know of and NO FRIGGEN CLUE what is wrong. I've ohm metered the thing to death, but never checked the fuses or relays. I've never checked the ECU, either, and wouldn't have a clue how. Swap? I have a brand new OEM Denso TPS in my hand, right now(He hooked me up for 100$), and I'll have the Thermo-Temperature Time Switch in hand in the early A.M. I will also have an AFM in hand by Saturday or Monday/Tuesday at the latest, through UPS, courtesy of JBM715 on here(75$/Shipping included)
I DO NOT mind spending a few hundred more bucks, in order to see that I'm starting nearly ALLLLLLLL new. However, ......this is becoming VERY SAD to me. I'm not pissed, not angry at all in fact....I just miss driving my rig and to be honest, I'M WORRIED I'LL DAMAGE SOMETHING! No leaks or not, ...it would have to enter some of your minds, right? Just want to know I'm not nuts. lol.
I'm VERY thorough, and often anal about doing things even a third time, to get it right, ....but I like to get it right THE FIRST TIME! lol. i GUESS, eventually, I"ll have to start looking at wiring, although I've found NO grounding or loose crimps thus far,.....yet I haven't peeled back the harness, which I'd like to avoid if possible....However, MAYBE IT'S BEST to go through that, as well, eh? I probably wont, if one of the next few things solves the problem. hahaha.
I have a link, somewhere, to 4crawler, I believe, on the TPS? I'm telling you, guys, ....I'ma need some help with that. I get REALLY paranoid around electronic gizmos that cost 100+ dollars that you can't return! lol. I'm going to try the AFM and Thermo-Time switch, first, because if they solve my problem, I wont mess with the TPS......Somehow I doubt it's going to be that easy!
Sorry to ramble, just want to be thorough. Also, ask me if I've replaced something and I'll tell you, 'Yes or no', honestly, and include it in a new list. REALLY feel like I'm crawling up HAMBURGER HILL! lol
PS> BRING ANYONE YOU WANT TO, HERE, TO THIS THREAD, OK? lol.
Ok, well;
The TPS: Checked it before the build, but after the new radiator/waterpump and Thermostat. It was REALLY hard for me to read that one. I was getting a couple goofy readings, but as I remember, no one suggested, "WOE, THAT THING IS TOAST".....
Vacuum: When doing this build, I took EXTRA time and replaced, literally, EVERY vacuum line, including the large, IACV ones, PCV and front-Large Hose with OEM hoses(TRUST ME, I WAS RAPED, Bout 90$ for all 4, BUT well worth knowing I have the best). The only line I haven't replaced was the Big one on the throttle body to the Idle Up/Steering Vacuum valve(or whatever it's called)....have a story on that one, .....later. lol
Intake AIR: I got a Brand NEW Throttle body to Air Tube elbow(the slinky one, hahaha), for 30$ on ebay, from AM-Motors or something like that. I"ve seen them alot. It seems to be good quality and MOST DEFINITELY has no leaks. The other hose to AFM is from LCE and it's VERY high gauge and quality, and tight as well.
A couple things I might have mentioned, not sure, are that; The other day, when getting the truck back from the dealer, I noticed that it was running worse, just slightly...It was wanting to stall, and in fact, it did. I adjusted that idle up screw in, because I COULD HAVE SWORN I'd screwed it out for some reason, and it stayed running.....but the problem was still EXACTLY the same.
The other thing, worth mentioning, is that I got a can of AFM cleaner, before I did ANYTHING, and Cleaned the AFM by the directions.......and btw, it was ALREADY doing what it continued to do, afterward.
Before I did any repairs(the VERY FIRST being the new Radiator, Water Pump and Thermostat), I was having issues, which caused me to bring it in to Toyo-Auto. He never even kept it but an hour, calling me back, saying, "It's overheating, really bad, you need to fix that before I can diagnose or even try to diagnose ANYTHING, ok?" I returned, carefully drove it home and then got the radiator, water pump and thermostat, ......it stopped overheating, but the problem remained. I went on to smog it, thinking it wouldn't pass, behaving so erratically, ....but IT DID!
Weeks later, I did a Seafoam, PCV and Booster, drove it around a bit, .......but the problem remained. I had also, before that, used a whole can in two tanks of gas.....which is why I moved on to the PCV and Booster. lol
I then figured, WHAT THE HECK, and began to tear into it. Most of you know the rest. I was anywhere from 100-1000 miles from snapping off the COG key and completely crushing the entire motor, valves and all. So, I figured, good thing I decided to do a rebuild. Did the rebuild, and now here I am, with the SAME FRIGGEN PROBLEM! lol.
Just to simplify, the MOTOR, top to bottom is NEW, Valve Cover to Oil pan, k? Aside from that, before and after the build, I've done;
1. Denso O2 Sensor
2. Denso Coolant Temp Sensor
3. Denso Plugs
4. New Cap-rotor and LCE 8.5 MM Wires
5. New Radiator, Water Pump and Thermostat
6. New Reman. Denso Alternator
7. Re-done and 190 across the board reading on Injectors and CSInjector as well by RC
8. New Daikin HD Clutch, Clutch Slave(w/fresh boot) and Master as well
I have NO LIQUID leaks, NO vacuum leaks that I know of and NO FRIGGEN CLUE what is wrong. I've ohm metered the thing to death, but never checked the fuses or relays. I've never checked the ECU, either, and wouldn't have a clue how. Swap? I have a brand new OEM Denso TPS in my hand, right now(He hooked me up for 100$), and I'll have the Thermo-Temperature Time Switch in hand in the early A.M. I will also have an AFM in hand by Saturday or Monday/Tuesday at the latest, through UPS, courtesy of JBM715 on here(75$/Shipping included)
I DO NOT mind spending a few hundred more bucks, in order to see that I'm starting nearly ALLLLLLLL new. However, ......this is becoming VERY SAD to me. I'm not pissed, not angry at all in fact....I just miss driving my rig and to be honest, I'M WORRIED I'LL DAMAGE SOMETHING! No leaks or not, ...it would have to enter some of your minds, right? Just want to know I'm not nuts. lol.
I'm VERY thorough, and often anal about doing things even a third time, to get it right, ....but I like to get it right THE FIRST TIME! lol. i GUESS, eventually, I"ll have to start looking at wiring, although I've found NO grounding or loose crimps thus far,.....yet I haven't peeled back the harness, which I'd like to avoid if possible....However, MAYBE IT'S BEST to go through that, as well, eh? I probably wont, if one of the next few things solves the problem. hahaha.
I have a link, somewhere, to 4crawler, I believe, on the TPS? I'm telling you, guys, ....I'ma need some help with that. I get REALLY paranoid around electronic gizmos that cost 100+ dollars that you can't return! lol. I'm going to try the AFM and Thermo-Time switch, first, because if they solve my problem, I wont mess with the TPS......Somehow I doubt it's going to be that easy!
Sorry to ramble, just want to be thorough. Also, ask me if I've replaced something and I'll tell you, 'Yes or no', honestly, and include it in a new list. REALLY feel like I'm crawling up HAMBURGER HILL! lol
PS> BRING ANYONE YOU WANT TO, HERE, TO THIS THREAD, OK? lol.
06-03-2010, 09:17 PM
#499
Alright chef,
here's some more direction for ya, To be some what cost effective lets check some other stuff that cost nothing. You said you put in new plugs right and assuming they're gapped proper right? If you have run the motor for a little while they might mind you might be able to tell you a little something. Check em see if they're fouled or really clean or just out of the ordinary. It's free so you have nothing to lose there.
Next the tps was best for me at least to adjust on the work bench with the throttle body removed and the tps still installed. Should be a simple gasket that is between the intake and the throttle body. If you purchased the head gasket kit and didn't replace it you'll have one already. If you used it you might be able to reuse it. I did. With the tps on the work bench it gives you some room to work and learn how to adjust it.
Seems as though you're doing the trial and error way of doing things not that it's wrong lord knows it's what i'll resort to if i'm in a similar situation. Make sure you test drive and run the engine thoroughly after each part. Obviuosly disconnect the negative cable every time you swap a part to let the computer reset.
Are you getting any check engine lights. I'm assuming not since as far as i've read you have yet to pull and or throw a code. Might want to check for codes any ways just to be sure and it's free as well to check them.
Check the fuel lines realy well and make sure there are no leaks at all. Simple yes i know but check them all the way back to the tank and make sure none are crimped or torn. Different vehicle but similar situation my father in law's jeep ran like pooh for two months untill he found that the tank was compressing the fuel line. Dropped the tank and freed the line up jeep has run well ever since.
How's the exhaust smell rich, coolant, normal? another idea for ya but probably a shot in the dark.
good luck brother. hope some of this helped.
here's some more direction for ya, To be some what cost effective lets check some other stuff that cost nothing. You said you put in new plugs right and assuming they're gapped proper right? If you have run the motor for a little while they might mind you might be able to tell you a little something. Check em see if they're fouled or really clean or just out of the ordinary. It's free so you have nothing to lose there.
Next the tps was best for me at least to adjust on the work bench with the throttle body removed and the tps still installed. Should be a simple gasket that is between the intake and the throttle body. If you purchased the head gasket kit and didn't replace it you'll have one already. If you used it you might be able to reuse it. I did. With the tps on the work bench it gives you some room to work and learn how to adjust it.
Seems as though you're doing the trial and error way of doing things not that it's wrong lord knows it's what i'll resort to if i'm in a similar situation. Make sure you test drive and run the engine thoroughly after each part. Obviuosly disconnect the negative cable every time you swap a part to let the computer reset.
Are you getting any check engine lights. I'm assuming not since as far as i've read you have yet to pull and or throw a code. Might want to check for codes any ways just to be sure and it's free as well to check them.
Check the fuel lines realy well and make sure there are no leaks at all. Simple yes i know but check them all the way back to the tank and make sure none are crimped or torn. Different vehicle but similar situation my father in law's jeep ran like pooh for two months untill he found that the tank was compressing the fuel line. Dropped the tank and freed the line up jeep has run well ever since.
How's the exhaust smell rich, coolant, normal? another idea for ya but probably a shot in the dark.
good luck brother. hope some of this helped.
06-03-2010, 09:18 PM
#500
PSS> I also tested the AFM and IACV(pinching off the hose when cold and then warm).
....... I also haven't replaced the fuel pump, but almost NO ONE, including the mechanics by trade I know, think that could meet the issues I'm having. However, seeing that I have one in my garage, ....A new Bosch, ....which I found out today that I might not be able to return.....in which case I'd use it till it dies. Shouldn't be too hard to change out, right? I pulled the cover under the pass.rear seat today, and it's easily accessible.......if I do it tomorrow, should I be on the look out for any common problems? The screws on the cover came right out, no problem, but I've heard that the others can cause a problem. They seem to have a HIGH flange, around the head of the screws to the pump-to-tank housing.....if I start to have a problem with one, can't I simply use vice-grips, carefully, around the flange, to assist in getting them started?
CRAZY that the book didn't even mention this access panel....I had the tank-shield already removed, and I had drained 3/4ths of the fuel, hahahahaha. Now that's funny! lol.
Anyone think this could possibly be the IACV?
And one more thing************* Since a while back, before the build as well, it's been 'pupp-pupupup-puppp' ing, out the exhaust, 98% of the time, and no RARE occasion, it pops in the AFM....VERY RARELY, and only since the problem began, ....again, before the build.
....... I also haven't replaced the fuel pump, but almost NO ONE, including the mechanics by trade I know, think that could meet the issues I'm having. However, seeing that I have one in my garage, ....A new Bosch, ....which I found out today that I might not be able to return.....in which case I'd use it till it dies. Shouldn't be too hard to change out, right? I pulled the cover under the pass.rear seat today, and it's easily accessible.......if I do it tomorrow, should I be on the look out for any common problems? The screws on the cover came right out, no problem, but I've heard that the others can cause a problem. They seem to have a HIGH flange, around the head of the screws to the pump-to-tank housing.....if I start to have a problem with one, can't I simply use vice-grips, carefully, around the flange, to assist in getting them started?
CRAZY that the book didn't even mention this access panel....I had the tank-shield already removed, and I had drained 3/4ths of the fuel, hahahahaha. Now that's funny! lol.
Anyone think this could possibly be the IACV?
And one more thing************* Since a while back, before the build as well, it's been 'pupp-pupupup-puppp' ing, out the exhaust, 98% of the time, and no RARE occasion, it pops in the AFM....VERY RARELY, and only since the problem began, ....again, before the build.
