aviator

Just to make you feel better mark... not quite free... you pay $40 to enter yard and what you can carry out (in your hands/on yer back) is yours... I've seen whole engines with trannys carried out between two guys... front/rear seats held together with seatbelts staggered out... backpacks full of parts...
if you don't find anything you need/or what you get is worth less than $40 on their price lists you get a credit for the diff.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Terry, ......... THANKS, MAN! Very cool of you to take that time to shoot me your thoughts in depth!

UNFORTUNATELY, ONCE AGAIN, my "Multi-Quote" isn't working. It hardly EVER seems to work on my own page... And I'm tired of hitting quite and copy and paste 3 times to get it all on one message... So FUGGETTABOUTIT! lol.

BUT, I wanted to answer you, no doubt.

* DIFF BREATHERS; Well, .... I was going to use some of the HD Vacuum Hose I've used for years from Goodyear. I can always change to fuel hose, and I already had about 8 feet of this vacuum line(and the smaller one for other replacements) in my stash, lol. Fuel hose is quite a bit more pricey.... But I'll probably end up doing it from Harbor Freight or something. The filter is what I see guys using, like a cheap fuel filter, up in the light housing or behind the battery... to aid in keeping debris, over time, or on a long dirt road, from getting sucked in if lets say, 'you just splash through water, causing the diff to cool and suck in air full of dust' ????????? lol. I don't NEED to use them... It just seemed many did. I read Roger/4crawler later removed the filters, IIRC. Don't imagine I'd need one behind the light lens, EH? hahaha. I think I'll route mine up front to over the bell housing and then up against the rear firewall... this way I can leave a coil of it without it maybe getting caught up on things and DEFINITELY keeping it out of the way, ya know?

* Back Window; I want 'permanent', Terry. I really HATE camping, especially in Winter, when it's harder to get up quick and hop out.... and HAVING TO LEAN UP, TURN ON THE KEY, PUSH DOWN THE WINDOW, ETC! I want a second switch for it in the back. I have an actual "Back Window" switch or 3 that I've grabbed at the yards. I see how to wire it in like you did... BUT, how do I wire in 'the second switch? Put ALL the pins out the back onto the second connector and then run it under the seats, then over into the panel, then to my 'hidden spot'? This switch CAN DEFINITELY be hidden.. as, well, think about it, .... I'm not going to be using it from outside, right? hahaha. I have an idea where, just not how

* Rear Dome and Deck Lamp(you didn't mention this, I AM, hahaha... ) ; I want to have all 3 lights working together.. (2 Deck Lamps and 1 Overhead Dome light in the motor cover) ....... I thought about it... and I don't really need a 'Deck Lamp' switch in the back... I simply need all 3 lights to work off each other, 'in unison', make sense? This means I will likely have to change out my deck lamps to the '3 way' types.... "Door/Off/On".... You're good at this stuff, Terry(many others) so I'm hoping you get me so far, lol. I ALMOST get how Roger turned his Deck Lamp "always hot"... But he ran the second lamp on his roll bar, a 24 LED Portable work Light that he strapped there, to the Dimmer Switch, which I guess works off the Dome light circuit???? I'll have to look back up to what he posted in that write up I pasted here lol. HEADACHE coming on! hahaha ..... The ONLY way I see to run the rear lights to come on when the FRONT door opens, is to route it from that wiring either under the dash or in the head liner where the dome light is fed in(meaning, tap into that wiring where it STARTS to head up into the paneling and then head liner later on.... Avoiding having to run it BACK down and then back)..... Making ANY SENSE, TERRY? Cuz I'm barely standing it at this point I'm getting so turned around, hahaha.

* Rear Deck and Dome lights 2; I also THINK I get what Bryan89 on iH8mud did... He said something about the 'green wire' in the tailgate wiring that controls the 'safety lock' switch.... (I guess he means that portion that stops the door from being unlocked when the window is UP in ANY amount, right?) I guess he tied into that, and when he opens the lock, it completes the circuit to the 'DOOR' section of that dome light he put in the rear window wiper cover... and both the deck lamps and his dome light in back come on. (What I don't understand is how the 'deck lamps' do that if they only have 'on/off' capability?)....... I'll read it again.

* Why is the sky blue? hahahahaha. Just messin

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I also had a gift card from a family member come early, for my birthday, to Harbor Freight. I got a roll up leather tool holster(for wrenches, so I can have all of them in there and not bounding around in my tool box(they make the most noise, lol)... I got a 1/4" Hex Cordless "Earth Quake" level Impact Wrench, and a second battery on sale for 9.99 instead of 18.99$ or something? This will REALLY help me out in the yards or just around here. I already have a Blue Point 3/8" Impact Wrench..., but I don't always want to pull out the compressor NOR CAN I make that kinda noise at the hours I'm seeming to most often work on it now. Got that for sale, 54$, 20% off that, 43$ ...... Got an impact driver kit on sale for 9.99$ Got a cordless right angle screwdriver for 9.99$ .... Some air tool adapters for my grinder and couple other air tools.... and completed my set of torque wrenches by grabbing a 1/4" drive torque wrench for 9.99$... All in all it was a GREAT gift and I'm very grateful. I'd like all these to be DeWalt or the like... But I honestly can't afford it... And I paid the extra few bucks for the 2 year no questions asked warranty on the impact wrench... Which, btw, has a case ...

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PS> Thanks, Paul! haha... Yeah, that helps... BUT, I have no one to help me walk a motor and trans out lol.... AND, it's a lil bit of a drive, ya know? hehehe. But WOW would I love to spend some time up there, man!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I have been REALLY itching to grab a motor for a swap for a long time. EVEN if it takes me a while, I could grab it and restore it in whatever it needs.. And this weekend, Pick-Your-Part being 50% off... That would allow me to grab a complete motor for 600$, with all sensors, wiring harness, etc.

I spoke quite a bit on this to JustDSM, and WOW what a helpful dude! We were talking quite a bit on his build on this... He's become quite the ambitious 'Swap Artist' and is doing them for clients now... He can do a 3RZ in a weekend into a rig like mine. I would be happy with a month, even more if it took me that long in spare time. He said, "Fly me down and toss me a fair price and I'll GLADLY help you in a weekend"... HOLY SMACKEREL! hahaha... I can't really afford to do both... I DON'T THINK hmmmmmm, hehehe. Actually, I think I can do anything I put my mind to long enough... But my REAL problem is making a decision, ya know?

* JustDSM is NOT a hater of the 7MGE,.... but he said, "I'd really stay away from the I6's and stick with the tried and true RZ/VZFE/UZ motors. The parts and fabrication is much less with these options with the UZ closer to the "more work" side of the scale."

This brings me to somewhat of a limited choice factor when it comes to 'Which I can get from the Pick-Your-Part' section of things........ See, they almost NEVER have 3RZ motors(unless they don't list them in the 'recently added vehicles' section of each locations webpage? I mean, Taco's are starting in 95, and they just had a 98 4Runner, 99 Lexus, 2004 Mercedes SUV...... At the small yard, anyhow. The bigger yard in Wilmington, also on Blinn Ave., has a "late model vehicle" section, where you pay another 2$ to get in once you're already in the other yard. I've NEVER gone in there, not once! lol.... So I don't know, but I'd guess it's more like 2002 and up either in tact or 2005 and up TOTALED stuff? Maybe Grego can answer this for me? ( I read LOTS on Yelp that "Yeah, it's a joke, small, unorganized and almost NEVER has anything worth while... AND, you can't know if there's anything until you pay to get in cuz of the wall"......)

This brings me back to my point on the 'availability' factor. The small yard on Blinn Ave. has(in relation to the 1UZ Angle);

1990 Lexus Ls400
1993 Lexus Sc400
1991 Lexus Ls400
1990 Lexus Ls400
1992 Lexus Sc400
1993 Lexus Sc400
1994 Lexus Ls400
1991 Lexus Sc400
1994 Lexus Ls400
1992 Lexus Ls400
1992 Lexus Ls400
1991 Lexus Ls400...........

.........Just added in the last month!

3RZ's? ZERO!

A question I have that I can't seem to find the answer to is "DO they sell whole cars?" .... I have seen rigs heading out complete.. MUST be yards grabbing them for resell? Cuz this is all I see on their site............

Car Sale $0.00 $0.00 $0.00
Car Sale Deposit $0.00 $0.00 $0.00

Maybe that's just because they don't want to quote ANYTHING on the site... BUT, wouldn't that be easy? ("80-89 Import Truck..... 800$")....... ???? I REALLY have to just call them, tomorrow. Because if I can turn one over easily... and they DO sell them for between 800-1500$... Why not pay 750$ at a 50% off day for the whole car and take it home and take my time????

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

"DISCLAIMER!" : NONE of this is some 'conclusion' that I'm doing a swap or, specifically, therein, a "1UZ", even if I do end up swapping. It's just hypothetical.... ESPECIALLY now, I'm not in a rush... Here's why>>>

After getting bounced around for 20 minutes and 3 different, TOTALLY inept service people at LKQ..... I FINALLY was told, "OH, we can't tell you that... .That's up to the Yard, itself".... Then, I spent another 10 minutes getting bounced between Cashiers to find John, the Manager, who was very eloquent and helpful. FHEWWWWW! lol......

John, the Manager at Pick-Your-Part, Wilmington, CA., 1903 Blinn Ave., told me this;

"Ok, I see what you mean.. You'd like the entire vehicle to be pulled from the middle of the lot? That's NO problem... and what are you looking for?"...... I told him, "A 92-96 Lexus LS400 or SC400, COMPLETE, with Tires, motor, NOTHING missing"..... He answered, "Yeah, I could do one of those for, ohhhhhhh, 1000-1200$, depending on the year. That sound good? Just need to know.. That would NOT apply to the 50% off sale, etc. But I'll bring it down a lil bit just to help you out and get it off the lot... We end up basically making that in the parts we do sell off them, in combination with 'scrap rewards'..... So it's easier for me to just let the whole car go.. But you'd be surprise how few people ask us that! "....

This has me REALLY thinking, guys... NOT ONLY could I find the Motor and all electrical I would need from it.... I would have the rest to part out, often in VERY good condition, ya know? I've already checked with the boss.... He said, "NO PROBLEM, you can do that here. I know you've wanted to start a project for a long time."... SO, I have 2 places to keep them. I could even Driveway my Truck and strip it down in the Garage, then have it hauled off for scrap later on. I figure for the doors, hood, trunk, interior, gauges(Not sure if I'd need them), Trans, Drivetrain, etc., ... I could EASILY have this pay for itself, or at least close, right?

I KNOW, I can't know what I've got in 'an engine' until I get it home and tear it down. BUT, I thought about that. I could at least, in the lot, check out if the crank turns over/around and around without 'obvious' drama... Then, maybe even use a 1/2 Impact wrench to turn it over a few times(between 2 or 3 batteries), and check the compression, RIGHT?????? NO, seriously, I'm REALLY asking. I know, it would be drained of oil..... BUT, turning it over a few times wouldn't hurt anything and they NEVER drain them completely/leave the plug out for hours... They just drain them til around 1qt. is left in them. I was thinking I could bring a quart or 2 of ATF, hidden in a bucket or tool bag, .... then turn it over right there with an impact wrench.... Would that work? (could I get enough force and 'speed of revolutions' to obtain a decent Compression number?

I can now stop worrying about the 'motor and harness and ECM's and EVERYTHING ELSE" removal..... Because, like he said, "The 'WHOLE CAR' would not apply to the 50% off portion. That means, even if it's a Tacoma(VERY RARE) or 5VZFE equipped vehicle... It wouldn't matter. OF COURSE I would still keep the 'Craigslist' page up at all times and go that route if possible(especially if it's running)....... BUT, at least now I know, right?

Just thought I'd share that, in case anyone is interested. I mean.... the day I got there to that Blue 4Runner.... It was REALLY clean. NO MOTOR, ...but the paint, interior, dash(no gauge cluster) and such were all in tact... SR5, loaded, and I BET he would charge less than the Lexus... Maybe 800$? For a rust free donor rig? Around here, that's not bad, if I'm getting the drivetrain and motor, especially!

Just something to keep in mind... And Since they come in quite often, I don't have to worry about 'rushing this', ya know?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

............AND LET MEEEEE HELP YOUUUUU, in case you need anything at the lots?

Preface to Question; I WILL at LEAST 'visit' the yards this weekend, for the "50% off 3 day sale".

* Question;

I have been wanting, for a long time, to swap in a leaf pack/modify my own, to increase flex and smoothness of ride. I have spoken to Jason_TN and SoCal85toyota and many others regarding this... BUT WOW, is it intimidating! (I know, I know, ..."There he goes with that word again! Has he looked at what he's gotten done on this thing?".... I get it... BUT, I DO NOT want to have to spend 300$ on top of getting the pack, ya know?)

IF I GO TO PICK YOUR PART........... WHAT LEAF PACK SHOULD I GRAB TO SWAP INDIVIDUAL LEAFS INTO MY EXISTING PACK?

IF I GRAB A WHOLE LEAF PACK AT PICK YOUR PART.... WHAT, ASIDE FROM CHEVY63'S, CAN I GRAB THAT WOULD REQUIRE LITTLE MODIFICATION ASIDE FROM MOVING THE SHACKLE FORWARD MAYBE? (I KNOW, there are 'many threads', and 'check GOOGLE'... but I'm really confused on this one as I've NEVER modified one or tried something new. I HAVE someone who will help me weld it in a different spot, etc... JUST wonder who has PRACTICAL APPLICATION or SOLID first hand knowledge on which way to go is best????? 50% off sale, guys... I could get a pair of rust free leaf packs for 40$ out the door, maybe it's less(30$ without warranty).

HELPPPPPPPPP! hahaha. But seriously, the sale starts tomorrow.. and I WOULD go TODAY, if I knew what to grab, FOR SURE! (and they charge the same for just a couple leafs as they do the whole leaf pack.. so SCREW that 'tearing em down more in the yard' crap, ya know?

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Hi Mark, just trying to catch up on your thread, I started my new job this week, so I've been busy lol. It's exciting to hear that you were able to talk to the manager of the pick and pull, and got the "go ahead" to buy a complete donor car when the time comes for your engine swap! That will sure make it alot easier so you can take your time and pull all the harness and sensors, and mark everything as you go, alot better than trying to pull everything in a rush at the yard, lol.

On the leafsprings, if you are going with chevies, I was reading on liveoffroads build thread and he said to stay away from suburbans, I guess the leaf pack is shorter than 63"....you think that if they were the same year that the pickups and burbs' would all be the same, but apparently not. Also if you get some out of a Z71 pickup (instead of a regular 1500 series 4x4) they have 4 leaves in the pack, if you get them out of a 2500 series they have 5 leaves plus an overload. But anyway he just swapped out his recently on his 85' 4runner, Id post the link, but cant figure out how to copy and paste with this laptop, lol. As far as other brand of leafspring (besides chevy) that you could use, Ive heard of people using ford f150 rear springs, and ford ranger. They are shorter than the chevy 63" and alot of people prefer them when bobbing their beds because they dont stick out so far as to get hung up on rocks, but they are still flexible, but I dont think you would have to worry too much about that part, lol. Also dodge durango/dakota springs I have heard of people using, but dont know to much on those, lol. I hope this helps you out some, and good luck hunting the yards, I can't wait to see what you get!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

im not surprised by what rustED said the Z71 option is just a dressup package an a few minor upgrades to a normal 1/2 ton truck the 2500 is a 3/4 ton truck
id have to wonder about the ranger springs as the ranger is a lighter duty truck than an f150 but thats IMO

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I sent you a few links and looking for more information. I am in the same position as I have not done anything like that as well. I know the 1UZ is a fairly popular swap. I wouldnt know what a 1UZ was if it hit me on top of the head, but am sure it would be computer driven.

Would you be comfortable with getting the computer to comunicate with everything else? That is what scares me is the wiring hook ups. If there was a step by step I could do it. My biggest reason for a motor swap in a few years is for mileage and will look into a carb or diesel swap.

I am starting to like using electric tools just what you mentioned earlier as no air compressor running. I got an electric impact and have yet to check it. If you pulled the plugs I would think it would spin a motor in the yard.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I DO NOT want anyone to think that I'm expecting Terry or Jason nor anyone else to do my homework for me... BUT, I did need a lil help to get started. SO, here's SOME of what I've found so far.

I thought this info would help someone, ... so I spent CONSIDERABLE time putting it together. It's not organized, but "it'll do, pig..... it'll do", hehe...

I WILL NOT post the links to the threads I received from a couple people until a later date. EXCEPT, of course, I will post the link that Jason Gave me for the general spring site....

http://www.generalspringkc.com/default.asp

OK, so I found LOTS of info from the links Terry gave me and I found some myself... And Jason shot me one.. And, here's what I found out from a site that Jason_TN sent me, "General Spring". They may not be the best springs, etc., whatever.... it doesn't matter. They have the measurements, so forth. Unfortunately, they offer no 'illustrations' for the 84-88 REAR Leaf Pack... but dimensions? YEP, lol... They also don't share the 'weight capacity' of the 84-88 Rear Leaf Pack.. But IT CAN'T be super wonderful! hahaha.

..........Regarding 'Length' (A/B) -- (And the fact that; Stock Toyota are 47.5" long in total and Stock Dakota are 56.00" Long in total).. This explains what that "(A/B)" means...




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84-88 4Runner rear leaf specs.....


_______________________

Here's the Dakota Rear Leaf Specs...... 2nd Pic is the Durango(WTH, right? lol)>>>





(VERY tripped out by the 'Capacity' Factor being so much more in the Dakota?)>>>

.........Regarding Spring Capacity; OBVIOUSLY made to be a 'work truck' to some degree... BUT, in the right set up, COULD VERY WELL be a good 'layout' for the old saggers(84-88 4Runners)........ This also has me asking, .......... "Are the 89 Different? Why aren't they listed?" I think they just left them out.


Some questions;

* OBVIOUSLY, we're talking 7" difference. BUT, ... am I getting it right that I'd have to move the front shackle 3.5" forward and move the rear 5" back?

* I'm am VERY tempted to try this, but haven't decided which of 2 ways I can go...

.....A. I could simply cut out my pack and slap in the Dakota pack as is, welded further forward and with WHATEVER HANGERS THE GURU'S would suggest in rear(I'd be moving the front shackle further forward/closer to the ground, as the frame is angled right there in the 4Runners.... However, I think it would still sit before the 'bend' where the frame goes straight.... So I'm not sure that the Dakota Shackles are set up that way... Would it matter much? )

.....B. Jason_TN suggested that I might try 'adding some leaves from the Dakota Pack, maybe 2-3 of the lower ones(Might have to grab springs from more than one pack, since the Dakota Springs only have 3/1, 4 total, so I would bet that the lower 2 would be the only ones to fit, seeing that the Dakota pack is 7" longer....

>
>
>
>

(Here is an example of how the longer springs have to be moved.... This is a 63-Chevy's rear leaf Pack next to a Stock Toyota 4Runner 47.5" Rear leaf pack; THANKS, TERRY, FOR THE INFO!!!!!! Jason, too! )>>>>



(Here is the Chevy 63's installed with a double shackle method/ Not sure this would be necessary as the Dakota Springs are 6" shorter in total, AND, I'm not going for really any more lift. I'd be pulling out my Zuk and going all Leafs, Modded or upgraded completely)>>



(Here is a picture of the "Front Hanger" Location and how it had to be moved MUCH forward with the Chevy 63's.... It also shows where the Stock Hanger location is, which is on the 'angle' portion of the frame... I don't think that the Dakota Hanger, only having to move 3.5" forward(??????) would make it to the flat portion of the FRAME on my 1st Gen 4Runner.... WHICH is what I was asking... "Would this matter?" I think it would still help moving the hanger for the dakota further toward the ground/lower most portion of the frame, right?)>>>



Here are pics of the stuff and droop improvements after this dude added Chevy 63's and moved the hangers and added double shackles............




THIS^^^^ is not priority #1 for me. YES, I would like better travel in the rear, being IFS and all for now. BUT, ....... I REALLY want more comfort as well... I'm not turning this into a 5" lift... And if need be, I'd remove a leaf or maybe be fine, just from stretching out things like with the 63's or Dakota Packs being longer....

HERE IS THE LINK TO THAT BLOG/POST/THREAD.... whatever it is.... >>> HERE!

Here is the Chevy Rear Leaf Pack Sizes......





S10's and such......



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__________________________________________________ _____________

F150 Swap............

I'm not saying this is trippy... but WOW, .... The measurements of the F150 and Dakota are nearly the same.... But the Spring Capacity....(WTH ?) >>>



Now the Bronco specs......... (Only the first gen Broncos were 2.25" wide.. the rest are 3"... I could tell looking at them today at PYPart.... ) ....



THIS IS A PERMALINK IN PIRATE on "F150 Leaf Pack Swaps/Mods.... And in that post, he's posted MANY links. Also, start at the first post in that thread if you want... TONS more there than just what he's posted(It's SUPER informative... Problem is, it goes ROUND AND ROUND like almost every one of these subjects! lol.... "He said THIS", but no, "SHE SAID THAT!", HAHAHA... But bottom line, FACTS ARE FACTS, and these are real measurements and real people who've REALLY done 'LITERAL APPLICATION' of these ideas.... So I have HUGE respect for those who try these things out... OR MORE SO, FAB THEM UP! hehe. ) >>>>>>>

LINK >> HERE!

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NOW, for the heck of it, "Jeep Springs" ....... (HEY, I DON'T CARE, ...whatever will work! Hate all you want... lol. LOTSSSS of Cherokees there, the 90's ones... MAYBE 20 RIGHT NOW! But I hear "adding Wrangler Leafs into our packs is the BEST way to go if you're just wanting to fix the sag and add some lift on top/keep the soft flex you'll lose with adding stiffer leaves to a stock 4Runner pack".... THAT'S WHAT i READ, just sayin, hahaha...The Wranglers are listed below as well.. but RARELY see that type Jeep at the yards... Although, there is a VERY nice 74 or so 2 Door Wagoneer type rig... Those leaf packs are there too)........



Others........



Wranglers.....



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I hope this all helps someone to make a decision....... If you want direct bolt in OMEmu or something of the sort... Or maybe Deaver or AAA or Alcan, TGear, the lot, ... PLEASE go for it.. I would NEVER shoot anything but props to the guys who just spend their money on, IMHO, VERY wise investments like that. I just am trying to do this cheaply as possible and WHILE IMPROVING things, ya feel me? hehe.

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PICK YOUR PART 50% OFF SALE TOMORROW! >>>>

I REALLY would like to figure out whether or not it's worth it for me to bust my rump grabbing springs....... These are the prices at Pick-Your-Part (LKQ)........



I also pulled 95 V6 Calipers in PRISTINE shape, today... BRAND NEW OEM PADS in them, too... VERY clean truck, actually... There's 10, minimum, 2nd Gen 4Runners, half of which are REALLY in excellent shape. But wondering if I should go back for them.... I figure OEM Calipers in a Truck with 150K miles are worth $38.49? for the pair?(AND, if I can FIND a Dual Diaphragm Booster and Larger Bore AISIN Master Cyl... Might be worth it too? PLEASE chime in? >>>>>>>>

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I spent some more time looking and didnt find much more info then what I already found. I am slow on finding the time of day on the net, so dont blame you on wanting the extra help. Another set of eyes is always good.

I was always going to grab a set of drums off of a 2nd gen runner and seems like you are better off on the truck brakes as I think I have a larger bore on the booster. I am still looking into it.

As far as springs, try to get them off of a truck that didnt have a tow hitch. Less likely to had the extra weight on them. I would be tempted to put the extra effort in getting them out of the yard if I found a good set. They arent to bad price new, but every little bit adds up and since they are half price would add up alot. You guys that have 1/2 price sales are so lucky. I am green with envy.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Terry, THANKS, MAN! I WAS VERY grateful for those links you sent me(More importantly the TIME YOU SPENT helping me out/have spent helping me out)... Truly helps me out tremendously at this 'stage' in my life of 'overwhelmed with too many things', ya know

I could have grabbed like 20 more things yesterday to stash... BUT I FORGOT MY SCREWDRIVERS!!!!! AHHHHHHHHH! I had them all set up at home, ... but left them on the table(was using them INSIDE the house to take off the backing plate on the Supra AFM.) <<<<>>>> BTW, .... I was thinking(I know, I should stop that, right? hahahaha)..............."The Supra AFM is NOT 'plug and play' in regards to the air intake section BEFORE the AFM.... It's taller(The RECTANGULAR INTAKE IN THE REAR), but same width...but, IT COMES STOCK WITH a "ROUND" intake hole. I SHOULD HAVE GRABBED THE INTAKE FILTER HOUSING it came with hahaha. Wouldn't have been more than a couple bux and would have fit right into my compartment where my stock box is. (I would prefer, until I'm proven otherwise, sticking with the 'safety' of the stock Yota Filters).... " .......Live and learn, right? I left them on the ground near that 82 Supra... BUT, I doubt I will get back to Stanton in the near future... :>/ I'll find another one... And I BET all those old supras are the same on the intake side of the AFM, so I'll keep my eyes open for another(unless Grego is heading out there today).

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I guess I should grab a pair of leaf packs then. Reading the "General Spring" site.... looks like the length of the packs is nearly identical from Chevy 1/2 ton to Dakota..... (Stupid question... but why are they called "63 Chevy's"??? They don't seem to add up to anything more than 56!... UNTIL 88-98???? ... which is 32x32" A/B measurement...which I THOUGHT was 64"... but maybe my math is bad? heheheehe.

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BUT WHICH LEAF PACK SHOULD I GRAB????????? I have MANY choices...........

* Dakota Pack

* Chevy thru 87 or 88-98

* Ford F-150

* 94 Bronco

* MANY Cherokee's of the 90's(the rounder ones that sold MILLIONS!)

* MANY more!

.........Anyone have any input before I leave?

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Wish they had a T100 I could grab a booster and master from... But it seems as though they always break off the plastic reservoir and poke holes in it.... That way, they can come back and get it cuz they need it for their rig and no one will want it without that topper/reservoir ........ VERY sad the level of character there!

Far as brakes, I might grab the dual diaphragm booster and larger bore master off a second gen 4runner if I can FIND ONE! Someone comes and grabs all the brakes off these pretty quick.
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Anything else before I go I should grab?? I have the day off and a sitter for my stepfather... so I WILL NOT get a call to 'hurry over here, he's on the floor', like yesterday around 5pm.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

chef that MC i got is from a 93 T100/4runner new its $24 with new resivor all you need to change out is the wiring pigtail for the fluid level warning light then the socket from your old MC to connect the two from new MC to old wiring harness with no cutting

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Dragon... thanks man! I would like to go with an Aisin, but at least those are lifetime guarantee..... O'Reilly has NEVER ONCE given me a problem returning things... Autozone, however, has. Pep Boys being the worst. O'Reilly I just give them my phone number, bring the card I used, DONE. I'm sure it's just the AutoZone near me.... Bcuz now that I think about it, the one down a ways(10 minutes south on PCHwy).... They were very helpful. What I REALLY hate is that they're not allowed, at least in "COMMIFORNIA", to hook up their code readers to tell you what it is. All that really hurts is the stores... Because they DO NOT sell THOUSANDS of items that could have been diagnosed right there. Instead, people have to go into a shop or buy a Code Reader(yeah, people aren't hurting at all right now with 5.00$ a Gallon Gas... "Meh, 50-75$ on a Code Reader? WHY NOT ".... righhhhhhht! hahaha).... In a shop, the guy will just give them a decent deal to keep them from DIY'n it... Can't even remember why, but I thought it was something like a store was lying and selling people things they didn't need... or maybe someones computer got fried? (KINDA HARD TO PLUG IT IN BACKWARDS, YA KNOW? ) hehehe.

I WILL call my buddy at Napa and see if he's got some Japan-Altrom for me under 40$ ..... Would be 20$ even half off at PYPart, ... so why not go new, right?

OH, Dragon... I must've had my ears burning today.... CUZ, ... I grabbed the Pigtail out of a "May-94" 4Runner 2 Wires, odd lil gray connector that's ALIEN to me and my first Gen... right? hehehe.

PS> I read on one of the threads I have saved..... "76 chevy blazer $36.00 1 1/8" bore very slight modifications needed. For me this waas a huge improvement, but as you know I still need to try a proportioning valve. No adaptor needed. All I had to do was slightly oval out the mounting holes on the new MC and there is a pointed ajuster nut on the end of the brake pedle push rod @ the point that pushed on the MC. I removed that ajuster and bolted it up simple simon. I also had to braded brake hoses made up ahead of time with the chevy MC fittings on one end and the toyota on the other I think they were 18" around $50. You can check my build thread for pics of how it all came togeather."...... Here is the guys build thread....Permalink to that spot...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/galler...tml#post628587

This was the thread that was on.......

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...tml#post890565

AND THIS WAS ON A 2000 4RUNNER! lol... Which, as I understand, have 1" Bore Masters. DOH! lol. That's pretty amazing how much difference 1/8" can make. >>>

PSS> I've also heard of "Willwood"... are those special thingymadoer Masters for Racers? >>>

From in that thread above;

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...tml#post907049

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TMI, ya know?.......... BUT ALL helpful in the end. I see NOTHING wrong with upgrading brakes or springs or ANYTHING that makes the 'ride glide' for ya, ya know?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

As I mentioned in the above posts.... Pick-Your-Part(A subsidiary, now, of LKQ Inc.), IS having a "50% off Sale".......

http://www.pickyourpart.com/sale/

BTW, ... "YERMO"??? HAHAHA.... You HAVE to see one of those Pick-Your-Part Commercials on Youtube.. PLEASE look it up... You'll NOT stop laughing until you need supplied air! haha. He's flying around in a helicopter and yelling at people on a bullhorn in Spanish, "HEY, quit messing with that thing... We'll give you CASHHHHHHH!" ... and then JUMPS out of the Helicopter....... ????????? hahahaha....

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Today, I hit the yard as early as I could... Picked up the stuff I'd stashed previously, then took one last look at all the F150 leaf packs, couple 84-90 Dakota trucks... And RIGHT bout to start working on one.... I got a hold of Jason_TN... Right then, I turn around, and I was actually standing right next to a 98 Dakota with 89K miles. NO hitch mounts or the scars from one...(As Jason mentioned... "STAY AWAY from Packs that had been holding up TRAILERS! lol. The grill and hood and EVERYTHING up front was gone... so at first I didn't recognize it. I then moved on while waiting for Jason to look up what would work/which years.. Turns out, 97 and 98 seem to be the ideal packs,.... because they had the 'HIGHEST' Capacity and SAME DIMENSIONS, EXACTLY, AS THE REST of the Dakota Springs, 84-2001(???)! ...... THANK YOU, ONCE AGAIN, JASON! (I actually had him looking up my thread! hahahah HAVE to get a dang smart phone already! hehehe).....

First leaf pack I've pulled.... and 50 Minutes later, BOTH were out and on the ground... Just looking it over and thinking it out... I DID GOOD! lol.

IF YOU DO go with the Dakota 97-98 Springs... DO NOT forget a set of Torx Bits!!!!!!!! LOL.... The last of 4(front and rear each have one, obviously)... the last one OF COURSE was turning with the nut... GRRRRRR! haha.... SO, Unlike the shackles upper torx bit on the other side, which worked just wedging a large screwdriver in there.. NOT SO MUCH on this one, ..... BUT, I'd already came this far.... This was the LAST BOLT and they would BOTH be out. SO, I looked down, right then, and what is it? A IMPACT DRIVER I JUST BOUGHT 2 days ago at HF! NO torx bits though.. And then, looking at the hex side.... I thought, "OH what the heck.... might as well try it"... and IT WAS TIGHT ENOUGH AND WORKED! lol.... NEVER got far enough on the 86 Dakota I was looking at.... So I didn't notice when they went to the Torx Bits(IDIOTS! lol..

OH, btw, .... I walked up there with the shackles still attached, ubolts and plate.... Figured, "what could it hurt... if they wanna charge, i don't REALLY need them, I'll toss em... He DID NOT Charge me.... and not only that, he only charge me for CAR SPRINGS! 22$ + 6$ Warranty.... 28$ for BOTH LEAF PACKS!

Then, showed him another thingy I got today.... 94 V6 Calipers... But having learned he knew NOTHING of cars... I kept my mouth shut... "What's that?" he asked me.... "Ohhhhh, just some calipers... Not sure I can use em, but I can return em if not, right?"... "YEP, you can return em within 30 days... same as always".. Then spoke it out, "Brake Caliper; $19.99, $3.00 Core, $6.00 Warranty.... 29$ for them both cuz it's half off"...........For 60 BUX? I think I did pretty well! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT! hehehe.

I also had some 4Runner Rims off a V6 94 Runner.... "OFFSET 8".... And I passed at the last minute, cuz "34!", even though it had a pretty decent BFG AT/KO 32x11.50x15 on it.. I KNOW, but I wasn't sure I needed them!

QUESTIONS;

1. To run these V6 Calipers... do I need those V6 Rims? I SWEAR I've read a bunch of people saying, "My SR5 rims from my 1st Gen 4Runner wont fit over these V6 Calipers"........ IS THAT TRUE? ANYONE?

2. The problem with just grabbing 2 of these OFFSET 8 rims for the V6 Calipers(only up front), IF I EVEN NEED THEM, ... is that 'WHAT ABOUT WHEN IT'S TIME TO ROTATE THE TIRES????' hmmmm? HEHEHE.

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Pics, anyone? >>>>>

98 Dakota Springs, Shackles WERE NOT extra .. Neither were the Ubolts nor Ubolt Plate



1994 Toyota 4Runner V6 Calipers;



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Thought I'd share a few more pics that I've shot with my crappy phone over the last few weeks.............

Couple PYPart things........

Wouldn't this be REALLY cool for 'TERRY' to restore? hahaha>>>



This thing looked IMMACULATE from the back... VERY clean... then I saw this... ...........



This guy was in the lot, today! SUWEEEEET! .......



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Few more pics of things I shot.........

First off... I'd never known this existed until I saw it...... LS600??? >>>>



This is MY FAVORITE Vette ever made! Split window BEAUTY! (Ok, one of them... I LOVED the Mako too...)...




Then, the Cherry on top..... THIS THING WAS 100% IMMACULATE! I'd have taken better pics if I had my camera and could have stopped to check it out... WOW, and a white one, too! hehe....



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Have a great weekend, guys!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

nice finds chef sweet vette 62 i believe my first high school auto mech project was a 62 split window that had walked the rotor an wheel (lose wheelberaings) tore up the brakes an spindle ect

good on the connector if you go with the newer MC that will plug right into the side of the MC if you connect it to the pigtail from your old MC you wont have to cut your old harness (see my truck i took picts) really the only difference ive seen in the 1st gen calipers is 4cls have a small an large pistons the V6 has two large the calipers bolt right on the stock brackets

please correct me anyone if im wrong

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Dragon

Hmmmmmm, you've not heard those--- "My Wheels don't fit over these V6 Calipers without some rubbing on the wheel" comments?

I also remember Terry just telling me he wanted V6 Drums? I was talking with Jason today, looking right at some... they look DEFINITELY bigger... I'd have to measure, but I'm pretty sure they are. I would go for it but......... the getting of the backing plate off and all that.... Just not something I could do in the yard. And so, I'd have to end up paying for the axles and then pay to have them pressed off, etc., right? hehee.

I was thinking of grabbing more Rear Gate Latch Cables today.... BUT, NOT ONE OF 10 4Runners had the window down.. And......... well............ it was 88*F.... maybe 100*F in the back of the trucks... NO WAY, not gonna do it! lol. HOWEVER... shouldn't be too difficult for people to find. Just thought I'd help if someone chimes in and is having trouble with the gate closing like I was.

ToyoTech559

keeping this short. from the guys i have talked to that ran chevy 63, didnt like them, sure they flex really good but driving on them on the road sucked. most that ran 63 went and got new springs either from trail gear or other spring companies and said it was a world of difference. to get more flex in the rear, you will need longer springs. the stock length springs can only flex so much.

RAD4Runner

Mark & Terry,
So happens, I'm in the middle of my "Rear Window Control Mod for Over-active Bladders (LOL!) so I figured I'd post things as I go. I already have the wires in, just waiting to get right switches. Hope this helps get you started.
-RAD

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I got drums on my mind. My left rear drum is leaking on my truck or the axle seal and has me wondering if my brake pads arent soaked. I actually meant calipers.

2 different friends parents both had the sky blue 69 Corolla. In high school, I was not very fond of riding in those Corollas back then. I am guessing that one is a 68 or older Corolla. One of my friends dad blew the motor on his Corolla and it had a rod sticking out of the block. He figured it was toast anyways and drove it on home, he wasnt about to pay a wrecker to tow it home. It would still fire up and run.

I never thought of there being a difference in SR5 Rims, but that brings me back to when I traded a guy a set of SR5 Rims for a parts truck and he was talking about the different lugnuts. I thought they were all the same and maybe he wasnt sure what he was talking about. I am wondering now if he didnt have a valid point. The V6 didnt come into scene until 88. The rims I traded were off of a 94 Runner, 3.0.

Sounds like you did good in the yard. There is supposed to be a way of manually lowering the backglass. I need to look into it someday as when I went to Kansas City to get parts, I would of liked to known how to lower it.

Thanks RAD4Runner...You know how to make electric easily understandable. I linked your thread to a guy having starting issues on his truck. I know you have the answer for him in your thread if he will go to it.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Toyo... Yeah, I know longer is the 'flexiest', lol... But I'd commented extensively on that... "I don't want necessarily to flex 48" in the rear... Just add a lil bit more... And maybe strengthen up that tendency to sag back there... WITHOUT getting tons of lift".... Covered that stuff, ...and that's why I thought Jason was on to something with the Dakota Springs... See, they're 56", not 63".... that's QUITE a difference, ..... and I would THINK would lend a bit of 'cush' to the portion that the 63's would lack? Even many of the aftermarket spring kits require moving the front mount and rear shackle mounts forward/back, .... just not 14" total like the Chevy's. I LIKE the Zuk mod... it's done pretty well by me... BUT, it's just a BIT too stiff and I have what seems like a lil axle wrap... Guessing that might be the cause(Tends to pull to one side when in forward/taking off situations????...Guess that could be the locker). And, while I like the Zuk mod(and it only costing me 70$ at the time), as I posted in my Zuk Mod Thread... "not dogging it, but it isn't meant to be permanent"... Seems that the dudes that did F150 Spring swaps find it to be fine on the street.... and I believe it's 56-57"(lots of different springs in the same trucks... Guys reported having to check the numbers at Salvage Yards to be sure they were given the same spring length and tension).

YOU ROCK! ... ALREADY scribed and posted before responding to my recently added posts Thanks, Rad!!!!!!!!!!!

Terry, x2 on RAD! Also, you said "manually lowering".... I'm guessing you're referring to my "I want to be able to crawl in the back with the window up and lower the glass so I can open the tailgate!" comment? I thought you'd figured that one out already... Was waiting for an answer, hahaha. I'm sure it's in the FSM, just haven't taken the time to look it up just yet.

Might hit the yard again today, just to find a couple things..... Would LOVE to know if the "OFFSET 8" wheels are what I need for the V6 upgrade.... BUT, as I said, I would need 4 .... 2 for the 31's and 2 for the 32's... Man, just can't seem to figure it out as to whether the original rims fit or not. Wanna KNOW before I start the Brake Upgrade, ya know?