ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
09-26-2012, 12:55 PM
#4841
Registered User
Have fun on ur trip!! By any chance, doubt u are, are u gonna running through south Mississippi on ur trip?
Last edited by racerflea; 09-26-2012 at 12:57 PM.
09-26-2012, 08:57 PM
#4842
Dragon, THANKS 
Richard, Flea...... hahahahahhahahahahahahahaha........ I almost spat Hansens Cola all over the screen
... I can totally see why you thought that..... Heck, I was lucky to get away to see Jason_TN IN NORTH HOLLYWOOD, which is where I went to meet up with him! 
Wow that cracked me up.... Jason and his wife Team Drive in a 53 Foot Rig.... Transport Team.... They hit CA all the time... just don't often get that close.. And while NoHo is not SUPER CLOSE.... it's close enough that I'm glad to help by saving him shipping on a Fender and AC compressor and the rest...(But actually, I mostly just like meeting up with them..... Good friends 
) I CAN'T WAIT to do my 'US TOYOTOUR', .... and Jason and Terry and the rest of the Southern Brethren will DEFINITELY be on my list of 'stops' for a few days! ...................Sorry guys.... I just referred to him as Jason_TN to make clear who i was speaking OF, didn't think about how that might be misconstrued! hehehehe.
Paul, ......... think that would work, eh? Hmmm, I hadn't thought of that. I just thought I would push back on it until I could WEDGEEEEEE it in there...... But that makes more sense! hahaha. I thought about just using my dremel and shaving 3-4MM off the inside length of the ring-retainer for the bayonet.... JUST a slit, that way I could slide the tip up in there(which is like 3MM longer than the standard 'contact'), then start pushing it back using my long angled needle nose on the 'riser' they have on the LED's.......... NO? Just thought maybe that might be less work and I could easily cut a slot out with my dremel, ya know?
I'll think it out. Thanks for the idea, Paul.... it's a good one!
One question though.... If I move the bayonet ring retainer over/back int that corner... where there's no plate... would that change anything as far as polarity, etc.? WIMean is,.... does it need to be riveted into the plate? (If so, I realize I could just run a wire soldered from there... But just curious.. Cuz once I move it, it's moved, ya know? If I just cut it... it would still fit the regular bulbs if I ever went back to them, ya know?
Richard, Flea...... hahahahahhahahahahahahahaha........ I almost spat Hansens Cola all over the screen
... I can totally see why you thought that..... Heck, I was lucky to get away to see Jason_TN IN NORTH HOLLYWOOD, which is where I went to meet up with him! Wow that cracked me up.... Jason and his wife Team Drive in a 53 Foot Rig.... Transport Team.... They hit CA all the time... just don't often get that close.. And while NoHo is not SUPER CLOSE.... it's close enough that I'm glad to help by saving him shipping on a Fender and AC compressor and the rest...(But actually, I mostly just like meeting up with them..... Good friends ) I CAN'T WAIT to do my 'US TOYOTOUR', .... and Jason and Terry and the rest of the Southern Brethren will DEFINITELY be on my list of 'stops' for a few days! ...................Sorry guys.... I just referred to him as Jason_TN to make clear who i was speaking OF, didn't think about how that might be misconstrued! hehehehe. Paul, ......... think that would work, eh? Hmmm, I hadn't thought of that. I just thought I would push back on it until I could WEDGEEEEEE it in there...... But that makes more sense! hahaha. I thought about just using my dremel and shaving 3-4MM off the inside length of the ring-retainer for the bayonet.... JUST a slit, that way I could slide the tip up in there(which is like 3MM longer than the standard 'contact'), then start pushing it back using my long angled needle nose on the 'riser' they have on the LED's.......... NO? Just thought maybe that might be less work and I could easily cut a slot out with my dremel, ya know?
I'll think it out. Thanks for the idea, Paul.... it's a good one!
One question though.... If I move the bayonet ring retainer over/back int that corner... where there's no plate... would that change anything as far as polarity, etc.? WIMean is,.... does it need to be riveted into the plate? (If so, I realize I could just run a wire soldered from there... But just curious.. Cuz once I move it, it's moved, ya know? If I just cut it... it would still fit the regular bulbs if I ever went back to them, ya know?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 09-26-2012 at 08:58 PM.
09-26-2012, 11:29 PM
#4843
"PICK-YOUR-PART" Part...... 48???? HAHAHA....
FIRST of all.... as I mentioned, I got to meet up with Jason and his lovely wife, today, once again! GOOD PEOPLE, .... and I don't say that lightly. Hard working, solid couple of folks... I brought him his parts and he managed to fit it ALL INTO THE CAB of his Big Rig! hahaha. A fender, Compressor, Back seat pockets and hardward for the uprights.... (Plus Terrys_87 's stuff as he'll be seeing him soon 
) .........
THEN........... I left, got back on the freeway to travel the 28 Miles back home.... in this........
hahahaha. 
is more like it! lol. But whatever, I figured it would be... And so instead of feeling like I was ONLY driving home in the Sea of Red... I decided to pull off on a side trip to, yep, you guessed right, "Pick-Your-Part", hahahaha.. I'm tellin ya, it's like CRACK, those places!
Anyway.... I got there around 3:30(left Jason around 1:55????) ( throw in another just cuz! lol)......... Something told me to head back to those 4Runners(2 first gens, side by side).... So I did, and RIGHT THEN, Jason_TN called me just to chat.... I told him, "I'm back at the 1st Gens... need anything???"... First he said NO, ...then I mentioned the Rock Guards and Badge Pillars.... So I grabbed the Rock Guards and Badges(no pillars).....
Just before that, right at the entrance, a 94 4Runner had arrived(was nearly gutted) the other day..... That last day here, the trunk closed/glass up, I didn't bother with the 'Truck Latch Cables'.... Cuz, on I don't know... it was 100 MILLION DEGREES, even hotter in the back???? hahaha. This time, someone had crawled in and undone the panel and plate and dropped the glass and then opened the door(THANKS, DUDE, WHOMEVER YOU WERE! haha)... So today, I grabbed both of those cables. I also went and checked out the 86 Blue 4Runner that I've gotten so much off... The cables were TOTALLY frozen on the passenger side! Hmmmmmm, got me thinking.... maybe IT IS my primary problem... But even if I do need the latches themselves, inside... They're easily removed with 3 screws(and that's how you get the Cables out, anyhow ).... Now that I thought about it, thereafter leaving, ... I should have just grabbed them, they were right there. BUT, while they're the same as the 1st Gens... the wiring connector isn't.. So I'd have to rewire my connectors on there... but WUTEVA! LOL. Mine might be fine if I just lube them up.... Probably DOUSED in debris, etc. I'll find out, hopefully some time tomorrow. Gonna fix that sucker!
Anyway, here's the stuff I got today.........
This is the COVER I have NEVER seen on that 2nd Gen Rear Cargo Dome(it has speaker slots on each side it looks like... and it goes over the wiper motor area in the rear......)......
The cover alone was 6.50$..... the whole thing was 8$........... WTH? hahaha.. So I paid for the both and went back after paying and got my dome light #2 (It's a 36mm Festoon... MUCH brighter than our 31MM bulbs... And yes, 10W, but my point is... 36MM Festoons offer WAY more options on the www.superbrightleds.com site! 6 and even 12 LED's on one 36MM festoon on another site. If that doesn't light up the rear like DAYLIGHT...then nothing will! lol. Plus, remember, I DO NOT HAVE to have all of them on.. When I just want the BRIGHTNESS of the one 31mm Festoon in the 'Deck Lamp'... I'm good to go. If I need more, to repair something on the trail, camping, etc... It'll be there, ya know? I might not use it.... and it's not in perfect condition.. BUT, even if I don't, someone will need it and I'll have it to help them out, ya know? )
BTW, I paid before running to get it, cuz the ''CASH ONLY'' thing comes up around 5:50.... This was 5:45! hahaha).
************************************************
Not getting tons of stuff done, like the bigger mods I've wanted to do for some time... BUT, at least I'm getting SOMETHING practical done that might help someone else down the road, right? Thanks to Terry(and others, like Richard mentioned the L-Trim removal as well... Then Terry posted the INSTRUCTIONS! hahaha)... , I've been able to dig into things I WAS TOTALLY hesitant on tearing into. NOT cuz i'm scared..... That's not it.. It's WAY more so the fact that I've 'dug into' things on many occasions and they've BROKEN! hahaa.... These things are OLD and many brittle parts, ya know? ESPECIALLY the interior.
I've met 3 guys that have rubberized their Panels in back... not bad thinking!
GOOD PEOPLE, .... and I don't say that lightly. Hard working, solid couple of folks... I brought him his parts and he managed to fit it ALL INTO THE CAB of his Big Rig! hahaha. A fender, Compressor, Back seat pockets and hardward for the uprights.... (Plus Terrys_87 's stuff as he'll be seeing him soon ) ......... THEN........... I left, got back on the freeway to travel the 28 Miles back home.... in this........
hahahaha. is more like it! lol. But whatever, I figured it would be... And so instead of feeling like I was ONLY driving home in the Sea of Red... I decided to pull off on a side trip to, yep, you guessed right, "Pick-Your-Part", hahahaha.. I'm tellin ya, it's like CRACK, those places! Anyway.... I got there around 3:30(left Jason around 1:55????) ( throw in another
just cuz! lol)......... Something told me to head back to those 4Runners(2 first gens, side by side).... So I did, and RIGHT THEN, Jason_TN called me just to chat.... I told him, "I'm back at the 1st Gens... need anything???"... First he said NO, ...then I mentioned the Rock Guards and Badge Pillars.... So I grabbed the Rock Guards and Badges(no pillars)..... Just before that, right at the entrance, a 94 4Runner had arrived(was nearly gutted) the other day..... That last day here, the trunk closed/glass up, I didn't bother with the 'Truck Latch Cables'.... Cuz, on I don't know... it was 100 MILLION DEGREES, even hotter in the back???? hahaha. This time, someone had crawled in and undone the panel and plate and dropped the glass and then opened the door(THANKS, DUDE, WHOMEVER YOU WERE! haha)... So today, I grabbed both of those cables. I also went and checked out the 86 Blue 4Runner that I've gotten so much off... The cables were TOTALLY frozen on the passenger side! Hmmmmmm, got me thinking.... maybe IT IS my primary problem... But even if I do need the latches themselves, inside... They're easily removed with 3 screws(and that's how you get the Cables out, anyhow
).... Now that I thought about it, thereafter leaving, ... I should have just grabbed them, they were right there. BUT, while they're the same as the 1st Gens... the wiring connector isn't.. So I'd have to rewire my connectors on there... but WUTEVA! LOL. Mine might be fine if I just lube them up.... Probably DOUSED in debris, etc. I'll find out, hopefully some time tomorrow. Gonna fix that sucker! Anyway, here's the stuff I got today.........
This is the COVER I have NEVER seen on that 2nd Gen Rear Cargo Dome(it has speaker slots on each side it looks like... and it goes over the wiper motor area in the rear......)......
The cover alone was 6.50$..... the whole thing was 8$........... WTH? hahaha.. So I paid for the both and went back after paying and got my dome light #2 (It's a 36mm Festoon... MUCH brighter than our 31MM bulbs... And yes, 10W, but my point is... 36MM Festoons offer WAY more options on the www.superbrightleds.com site! 6 and even 12 LED's on one 36MM festoon on another site. If that doesn't light up the rear like DAYLIGHT...then nothing will! lol. Plus, remember, I DO NOT HAVE to have all of them on.. When I just want the BRIGHTNESS of the one 31mm Festoon in the 'Deck Lamp'... I'm good to go. If I need more, to repair something on the trail, camping, etc... It'll be there, ya know? I might not use it.... and it's not in perfect condition.. BUT, even if I don't, someone will need it and I'll have it to help them out, ya know?
) BTW, I paid before running to get it, cuz the ''CASH ONLY'' thing comes up around 5:50.... This was 5:45! hahaha).
************************************************
Not getting tons of stuff done, like the bigger mods I've wanted to do for some time... BUT, at least I'm getting SOMETHING practical done that might help someone else down the road, right? Thanks to Terry(and others, like Richard mentioned the L-Trim removal as well... Then Terry posted the INSTRUCTIONS! hahaha)... , I've been able to dig into things I WAS TOTALLY hesitant on tearing into. NOT cuz i'm scared..... That's not it.. It's WAY more so the fact that I've 'dug into' things on many occasions and they've BROKEN! hahaa.... These things are OLD and many brittle parts, ya know? ESPECIALLY the interior.
I've met 3 guys that have rubberized their Panels in back... not bad thinking!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 09-26-2012 at 11:42 PM.
09-26-2012, 11:41 PM
#4844
PS> JASON! lol..... Can you PLEASE send me the link for the early model Dakota Leaf Pack Swap? ..... I have a buddy not 80 miles from here that's willing to help me weld anything I need and even bend some pipe for a possible set of sliders, Bumpers, etc. So, would like to be prepared if I grab those in the next few days, ya know? I'm VERY interested in doing that(and then some while at it). But I really wanna read up on what you found, ya know? If you don't mind, of course, sir?
09-27-2012, 10:40 AM
#4845
QUESTION ON POWER ANTENNA MAST?
* I know there are tons of threads on this repair.... But I picked up that GREAT condition motor and shaft Power Antenna out of an 87 4Runner at the Yard... WHO SELLS the BEST QUALITY Mast replacement?
* I could use the best thread or video on replacing it, and I KNOW someone or another has done it, lol..... So GIVE IT UP! lol. (I don't mind 'searching', guys.... But I think I've tried to do a bit of blind searching and repair posts/videos to warrant a lil help, maybe? hehehe.... I JUST HATE searching through 500 posts/threads/sites for 20 hours only to find I still don't know which is the best APPLIED & RESULT path to take on where to get it/how to do it RIGHT! lol. /// I might have something missing from the picture here... so I'll post up pics and maybe a video of all I got. My aftermarket one is ok, but THEY ALL seem to take in water and have 'INTERMITTENT' problems, ya know? And the Toyota one only stopped working due to being 20 years old or so and brittle, lol. PLUS, the aftermarket ones fit REALLY tight! I don't like that being so close to the fender.... And IT'S SOOOOOOOO LOUDDDDDD! hahahaha. )
* I know there are tons of threads on this repair.... But I picked up that GREAT condition motor and shaft Power Antenna out of an 87 4Runner at the Yard... WHO SELLS the BEST QUALITY Mast replacement?
* I could use the best thread or video on replacing it, and I KNOW someone or another has done it, lol..... So GIVE IT UP! lol. (I don't mind 'searching', guys.... But I think I've tried to do a bit of blind searching and repair posts/videos to warrant a lil help, maybe? hehehe.... I JUST HATE searching through 500 posts/threads/sites for 20 hours only to find I still don't know which is the best APPLIED & RESULT path to take on where to get it/how to do it RIGHT! lol. /// I might have something missing from the picture here... so I'll post up pics and maybe a video of all I got. My aftermarket one is ok, but THEY ALL seem to take in water and have 'INTERMITTENT' problems, ya know? And the Toyota one only stopped working due to being 20 years old or so and brittle, lol. PLUS, the aftermarket ones fit REALLY tight! I don't like that being so close to the fender.... And IT'S SOOOOOOOO LOUDDDDDD! hahahaha. )
09-27-2012, 12:39 PM
#4846
JUST POSTING UP SOME REFERENCE(Pertaining to things I'm starting on soon);
Tailgate window bypass by Terrys_87....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51971836
Tailgate release lever cables on Terrys_87 ....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51975852
Power Antenna Mast Replacement on Terrys_87 .....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51970405
Reverse Light issue, on Terrys_87 .....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51972442
From Blakefogt's thread; Superbrightleds part numbers for dash and other lights....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51816468
Tailgate window bypass by Terrys_87....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51971836
Tailgate release lever cables on Terrys_87 ....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51975852
Power Antenna Mast Replacement on Terrys_87 .....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51970405
Reverse Light issue, on Terrys_87 .....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51972442
From Blakefogt's thread; Superbrightleds part numbers for dash and other lights....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51816468
09-27-2012, 09:33 PM
#4848
hahaha.... Why? Is it......., the Pick-Your-Part driveway? hehehe.... actually, I'm TOTALLY tired of chasing the 'miss' grelmin... I think it's largely normal.. I have NO backfire, NO misfire, NO dramatic rumbling..... YET, LIL bit, weeeeeeeeee bit too much shaking I can see in the engine bay. As my machinist said, .... "Mehhhhh, ..... lil rumble in the jungle isn't gonna kill ya!" hahaha... He was just messin.. but he's right... My OTHER Gremlin, the idling down one? THAT is something I'd like to tackle....
I now have collected the following that I could EASILY resell or use if needed;
Spare Parts Available for 'Swap Diagnosis';
* Coil and Ignitor from a known smooth running 86(w/all wiring and connectors and even the Dust Boot and Secondary)
* 2 AFM's aside from my original and the one I'm using now
* A spare ECU(My original is out right now... I might try that first, just for S&G's)
* Spare CSI time Switch(VERY doubtful...and it seems to test to specs)
* Loaner Dizzy
* Original specs set of Plug Wires
* OEM Fuel Filter I've had for a while(I put a Fram in it before I knew better.... But only 12K on it.... REALLY doubt that would cause an 'INTERMITTENT' problem that seems to only happen at Hot restarts, ..........ya know? hahaha).
* Charcoal Canister (Takes about 5 minutes to swap out... NOT SURE it was good, but tests "to FSM specs" and came from that Red 87 Auto in the Pick-Your-Part that I've been raping of everything, hahaha)
* EGR/Vacuum Rail(and 3 Modulators that they've just let me have.... MY modulator in there now is brand new-OEM) PS> On this one,... the EGR I found is LIKE NEW inside.... and OEM (? Maybe the 87's owner at the lot replaced it ?) .... But the screw that holds the lil Modulator to EGR hard line on the side pipe of the EGR? It's missing. Would LOVE to know if anyone has looked at one... I have 10000 Toyota nuts and bolts.. I might just have something that would work, hahaha). That tested to hold vacuum for several minutes btw(the EGR).. and as I said, it's SPOTLESS inside and OEM.. I bring this up because I HAVE had guys test them as fine... yet later, they found the EGR WAS in fact their problem. NOT thinking so in this case... But I've not coke can mod-block plated the EGR plenum port off SINCE it's been doing this 'dropping to 500rpm on restart' crap.... REALLY wouldn't wanna replace the EGR if I don't have to, lol. That's ONE thing that's easier to get to on the 3.0, ya know? lol.
* Extra Throttle Body(again, not likely, just saying, I have one)
* Extra 2 TPS(not likely either, I know.... again, just listing).
* 2 COR
* Original Fuel Pump that I replaced with a Bosch Premium(NOT likely either).
* 2 Spare FPR-VSV's
*****************************************
The ONLY thing I can think of that's been 'worked on' in the 'replacement' realm, PRIOR to it doing this 'idle down at hot restart' thing....? >>>> AC/VSV... I can't be sure, but I REALLY think I did that before it started doing this stuff. I'll have to look it up/look back on my thread. Meh, also unlikely, lol.
I now have collected the following that I could EASILY resell or use if needed;
Spare Parts Available for 'Swap Diagnosis';
* Coil and Ignitor from a known smooth running 86(w/all wiring and connectors and even the Dust Boot and Secondary)
* 2 AFM's aside from my original and the one I'm using now
* A spare ECU(My original is out right now... I might try that first, just for S&G's)
* Spare CSI time Switch(VERY doubtful...and it seems to test to specs)
* Loaner Dizzy
* Original specs set of Plug Wires
* OEM Fuel Filter I've had for a while(I put a Fram in it before I knew better.... But only 12K on it.... REALLY doubt that would cause an 'INTERMITTENT' problem that seems to only happen at Hot restarts, ..........ya know? hahaha).
* Charcoal Canister (Takes about 5 minutes to swap out... NOT SURE it was good, but tests "to FSM specs" and came from that Red 87 Auto in the Pick-Your-Part that I've been raping of everything, hahaha)
* EGR/Vacuum Rail(and 3 Modulators that they've just let me have.... MY modulator in there now is brand new-OEM) PS> On this one,... the EGR I found is LIKE NEW inside.... and OEM (? Maybe the 87's owner at the lot replaced it ?) .... But the screw that holds the lil Modulator to EGR hard line on the side pipe of the EGR? It's missing. Would LOVE to know if anyone has looked at one... I have 10000 Toyota nuts and bolts.. I might just have something that would work, hahaha). That tested to hold vacuum for several minutes btw(the EGR).. and as I said, it's SPOTLESS inside and OEM.. I bring this up because I HAVE had guys test them as fine... yet later, they found the EGR WAS in fact their problem. NOT thinking so in this case... But I've not coke can mod-block plated the EGR plenum port off SINCE it's been doing this 'dropping to 500rpm on restart' crap.... REALLY wouldn't wanna replace the EGR if I don't have to, lol. That's ONE thing that's easier to get to on the 3.0, ya know? lol.
* Extra Throttle Body(again, not likely, just saying, I have one)
* Extra 2 TPS(not likely either, I know.... again, just listing).
* 2 COR
* Original Fuel Pump that I replaced with a Bosch Premium(NOT likely either).
* 2 Spare FPR-VSV's
*****************************************
The ONLY thing I can think of that's been 'worked on' in the 'replacement' realm, PRIOR to it doing this 'idle down at hot restart' thing....? >>>> AC/VSV... I can't be sure, but I REALLY think I did that before it started doing this stuff. I'll have to look it up/look back on my thread. Meh, also unlikely, lol.
09-27-2012, 09:41 PM
#4849
Curious if anyone has used these in the Dash.... or would they melt everything? hahaha...
It says, "in place of 194 bulbs/multiple mounting bases available". It's a "Silver Platinum Chrome Edition" type bulbs... I know they have Xenon too.. I just wondered... Would this be an alternative for someone who wanted FULL dimming capabilities but a LIL bit brighter than stock? hahaa.... >>>>
It says, "in place of 194 bulbs/multiple mounting bases available". It's a "Silver Platinum Chrome Edition" type bulbs... I know they have Xenon too.. I just wondered... Would this be an alternative for someone who wanted FULL dimming capabilities but a LIL bit brighter than stock? hahaa.... >>>>
09-27-2012, 11:53 PM
#4850
BUZZER PROBLEM SOLVED! 
THANKS, TERRY!(?) I know you posted it, but maybe someone else did too.... In just a week I was ready to put my fist through the moon roof.... and I LOVE MY MOON ROOF! hahaha. No, it's tolerable.... for a LIL WHILE.. but really, it's annoying. Besides, it already has a headlight warning and I have a carefully hidden Spare..... so I'm good, honest! lol.
Soooooo, now I have dome light and door marker light and all that working with the door open.... WITHOUT A BUZZER! woot! lol...
Next is the Tailgate Cables for the 4Runner and the Maplight LED's I ordered... If they're not bright enough..... NO worries..... I already know a place I can use it.... IN MY MINI ENGINE BAY LIGHT that doesn't have a reel!
haha... Hey, it'll work, so why waste it, right? Ba9s, NO wasting of power, ............ just need a lens for it and I'm golden... But I DON'T plan on not needing them.... I KNOW they'll work, DANGIT! hahha. They should, they're 28MM long and the PERFECT angle downward to light up the magnified lens and reflector above itself.... Should be at least better than the lil Ba9 Incandescents... Which AREN'T bad, at all. Just could use A LIL more as I get more tirededed eyes, ya know? lol.
THANKS, TERRY!(?) I know you posted it, but maybe someone else did too.... In just a week I was ready to put my fist through the moon roof.... and I LOVE MY MOON ROOF! hahaha. No, it's tolerable.... for a LIL WHILE.. but really, it's annoying. Besides, it already has a headlight warning and I have a carefully hidden Spare..... so I'm good, honest! lol. Soooooo, now I have dome light and door marker light and all that working with the door open.... WITHOUT A BUZZER! woot! lol...
Next is the Tailgate Cables for the 4Runner and the Maplight LED's I ordered... If they're not bright enough..... NO worries..... I already know a place I can use it.... IN MY MINI ENGINE BAY LIGHT that doesn't have a reel!
haha... Hey, it'll work, so why waste it, right? Ba9s, NO wasting of power, ............ just need a lens for it and I'm golden... But I DON'T plan on not needing them.... I KNOW they'll work, DANGIT! hahha. They should, they're 28MM long and the PERFECT angle downward to light up the magnified lens and reflector above itself.... Should be at least better than the lil Ba9 Incandescents... Which AREN'T bad, at all. Just could use A LIL more as I get more tirededed eyes, ya know? lol.
09-28-2012, 11:22 PM
#4851
Visited PYPart again, today, while down that way on Business. I stopped in on the way back from Long Beach.... because I'd noticed a couple Toyota's had dropped there yesteday(A 97 4Runner, 95 4Runner and an 87 Flatbed PU)...........
While walking through I noticed a couple older/90's Celicas... I grabbed 2 Different AC-VSV's for if mine ever goes out(or for someone who might wanna do the 'Move the AC VSV mod I did and get their 'idle up' back )..... And while in there, I noticed that the Celica GT-S I was in had the same Vacuum Ports that I need for the Diff Breathers..... I got 4 PAIRS OF THEM! hahaha... (Again, wanna hook up my Yotabrothers, as Nissan and Toyota want around 8$ each for them )
I went back to the Red 87 4Runner I got the hubs off... and I looked up and noticed something I'd not noticed THAT WHOLE DAY! hahaha... "A 1st Gen Maplight"/"SR5 1st Gen 4Runner Maplight"........ Grabbed that.... Then walking by 2 more 2nd Gen PU's they had, ..I noticed that they had the Rear View Mirror Light.....
.... YEP, grabbed one of those too, with the mirror, as it's no more. NOW I will have ANOTHER 3022WHP-whatever LED light there, too, and should never need more light than that under any circumstance! hahaha. I got the wiring with it, and it's got an interesting 2-connector thing there.... (I'll get pics tomorrow).... It seems to have the "DOOR/OFF/ON" system in it, with the same type '2 prong plug'...just like our dome lights. BUT, it also has a second wire there, plugged into nothing?? And that one is ONE PRONG, not two.. So Im' not sure what it's for. So I took it and the stock wiring.
Got 2 more 2nd Gen 4Runner Dome lights with pretty much perfect lenses... And this time, since the 95 had just got there, I was able to get the lens again from that rear dome light... And THIS TIME, I also got the connector, lol. I'm probably going to use it in the panel on the opposite side, instead of a second Deck Lamp with 31mm festoon(3022)...This will allow me to put a 2 sided, 12LED Festoon in there........ FAR brighter than the ones I have in there now. It has "ON/OFF/DOOR", as I said, so it will also go on automatically with the dome that will go on the rear window cover. Just have to figure out this wiring set up and where it all goes. But having all the stuff is a good start! lol.
Got a couple 2nd Gen Tan rear seat headrests for Jason_TN..... BUT, .... as I'd read and forgotten... they DO NOT FIT THE FIRST GENS!... Now I have to 'exchange' them... But that's ok.
All in all, for another 2$ entry fee, considering it's right on the way home from where I was.... I did pretty well
Unfortunately, ONCE AGAIN, like always, the 4Runners all had the back winows up! WTH?????? I got in one and tried to figure out how to release the glass on that 95... But no dice! The Haynes is not revealing that trick to me... HOWEVER; I did find the wiring diagram to the rear window for 4Runners.... It's all the same from 84-95, apparently... Just different style connectors and I think they upgraded the release cables, etc... But they're all the same size. Everything but the window in there is the same, from what I've been told/can tell. Thanks, Terry, Jason, etc.
While walking through I noticed a couple older/90's Celicas... I grabbed 2 Different AC-VSV's for if mine ever goes out(or for someone who might wanna do the 'Move the AC VSV mod I did and get their 'idle up' back
)..... And while in there, I noticed that the Celica GT-S I was in had the same Vacuum Ports that I need for the Diff Breathers..... I got 4 PAIRS OF THEM! hahaha... (Again, wanna hook up my Yotabrothers, as Nissan and Toyota want around 8$ each for them )I went back to the Red 87 4Runner I got the hubs off... and I looked up and noticed something I'd not noticed THAT WHOLE DAY! hahaha... "A 1st Gen Maplight"/"SR5 1st Gen 4Runner Maplight"........ Grabbed that.... Then walking by 2 more 2nd Gen PU's they had, ..I noticed that they had the Rear View Mirror Light.....
.... YEP, grabbed one of those too, with the mirror, as it's no more. NOW I will have ANOTHER 3022WHP-whatever LED light there, too, and should never need more light than that under any circumstance! hahaha. I got the wiring with it, and it's got an interesting 2-connector thing there.... (I'll get pics tomorrow).... It seems to have the "DOOR/OFF/ON" system in it, with the same type '2 prong plug'...just like our dome lights. BUT, it also has a second wire there, plugged into nothing?? And that one is ONE PRONG, not two.. So Im' not sure what it's for. So I took it and the stock wiring. Got 2 more 2nd Gen 4Runner Dome lights with pretty much perfect lenses... And this time, since the 95 had just got there, I was able to get the lens again from that rear dome light... And THIS TIME, I also got the connector, lol. I'm probably going to use it in the panel on the opposite side, instead of a second Deck Lamp with 31mm festoon(3022)...This will allow me to put a 2 sided, 12LED Festoon in there........ FAR brighter than the ones I have in there now. It has "ON/OFF/DOOR", as I said, so it will also go on automatically with the dome that will go on the rear window cover. Just have to figure out this wiring set up and where it all goes. But having all the stuff is a good start!
lol. Got a couple 2nd Gen Tan rear seat headrests for Jason_TN..... BUT, .... as I'd read and forgotten... they DO NOT FIT THE FIRST GENS!
... Now I have to 'exchange' them... But that's ok. All in all, for another 2$ entry fee, considering it's right on the way home from where I was.... I did pretty well
Unfortunately, ONCE AGAIN, like always, the 4Runners all had the back winows up! WTH?????? I got in one and tried to figure out how to release the glass on that 95... But no dice! The Haynes is not revealing that trick to me... HOWEVER; I did find the wiring diagram to the rear window for 4Runners.... It's all the same from 84-95, apparently... Just different style connectors and I think they upgraded the release cables, etc... But they're all the same size. Everything but the window in there is the same, from what I've been told/can tell. Thanks, Terry, Jason, etc.
09-29-2012, 02:02 AM
#4852
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Thanks Mark...Glad I was able to help out even from here from Misery.lol. I am always grabbing nuts and bolts from the boneyard, but I have cannablized all of my light bulbs from sockets that I had to buy alot of replacements from the store. I spent $16 just for bulbs and then seen you had some from the boneyard is a great idea. Getting the brighter ones will be on the list, but until then the factory bulbs will work.
09-30-2012, 02:15 AM
#4854
Thanks, Terry, Dragon,... hope you guys are doing well.
Just a quick post, first, of Pics of my very last trip, the other day, to PYPart...
PS> Yes, that's ANOTHER "Japanese Logo 'Toyota' " Oil cap.
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**************************************************
Also got a package today............
Three more 3022 Festoons were in there(one for the passenger side door marker light, one for the 2nd Deck lamp that's going in and one for the Dome that's going in the Rear wiper motor cover).... Also, these were in there for my "1st Gen 4Runner Map Light LED" idea...
The second door light is in now..........
And the LED Ba9s Bulbs with 6 of the lil LED's on them are in as well(side by side with an incandescent on the right, WITHOUT the cover on)... I did video, but they just didn't come out.. So I'll do pics, later, down the road.(I'm going to do a separate thread on the LED stuff).........
HONEST OPINION? Ok, lol: They're fine. They're not NEARLY as bright as the Dome, which is fine, because I'm not planning on building circuit boards with their light! lol... In fact, they're very, VERY low on glare or any kinda 'too much light' factor. I can read just fine with them... But I'm not sure they're any brighter than the stock 8W Ba9s incandescent bulbs that I took out of there.... What I DO know is this... THEY WILL use FAR less power, FOR SURE!(maybe 1watt, total? For both?).... I could leave them both in all week and I BET YOU MONEY my ride would still start, easily. 2 8W bulbs in there is pretty decent pull... Our domes are 10W and the doors are 4W bulbs, stock(4crawler just pointed that out to me on another thread)(Pretty sure Toyota used mostly "Toshiba" bulbs back then. I seem to find them more often than not.)
Just a quick post, first, of Pics of my very last trip, the other day, to PYPart...
PS> Yes, that's ANOTHER "Japanese Logo 'Toyota' " Oil cap.
**************************************************
**************************************************
Also got a package today............
Three more 3022 Festoons were in there(one for the passenger side door marker light, one for the 2nd Deck lamp that's going in and one for the Dome that's going in the Rear wiper motor cover).... Also, these were in there for my "1st Gen 4Runner Map Light LED" idea...
The second door light is in now..........
And the LED Ba9s Bulbs with 6 of the lil LED's on them are in as well(side by side with an incandescent on the right, WITHOUT the cover on)... I did video, but they just didn't come out.. So I'll do pics, later, down the road.(I'm going to do a separate thread on the LED stuff).........
HONEST OPINION? Ok, lol: They're fine. They're not NEARLY as bright as the Dome, which is fine, because I'm not planning on building circuit boards with their light! lol... In fact, they're very, VERY low on glare or any kinda 'too much light' factor. I can read just fine with them... But I'm not sure they're any brighter than the stock 8W Ba9s incandescent bulbs that I took out of there.... What I DO know is this... THEY WILL use FAR less power, FOR SURE!(maybe 1watt, total? For both?).... I could leave them both in all week and I BET YOU MONEY my ride would still start, easily. 2 8W bulbs in there is pretty decent pull... Our domes are 10W and the doors are 4W bulbs, stock(4crawler just pointed that out to me on another thread)(Pretty sure Toyota used mostly "Toshiba" bulbs back then. I seem to find them more often than not.)
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 09-30-2012 at 02:39 AM.
09-30-2012, 03:47 AM
#4855
1st Gen 4Runner Tailgate Cable Repair/Upgrade
Bottom line, my tailgate wouldn't even latch on the pass. side, let alone lock. This is a very common problem, from what I've learned.... And the culprits, as I've also come to glean from great Yotatechy Brothers like Terrys_87 and others is these..........
The Tailgate Latch Release/Latch Cables...........
************************************************** ********
So let's get to it..........
1st: Remove the Carpeted Panel, Metal Plate and then Plastic Film(The film can be brittle... Mine was solid.. Just a lil dried out on the corners. But pick a spot to start and peel it up and continue to peel it up all the way around until it's removed)...........
Mine was very dirty inside and on top.......
Here's a close up of the most common cable to wind up sticking/freezing up, passenger side... It can't enter the shaft to re-engage the latch mechanism...
The cable going to the driver side latch seemed to move 'OK'... but I replaced them both, for reasons I'll explain in video, more so, later(but briefly; The 1st Gen cables ARE DIFFERENT, in more than one way. They DO NOT have a rubber boot on the end that the cable slides through.... Rather, the cable itself is 'rubberized'... It rusts right through the rubber and seizes up inside the shaft/guide)........Driver side Cable.......
Here is the passenger side latch mechanism bracket, where the cable clips in/Second pic is the driver side one......
This is the Lock-Safety Switch Actuator in, first, the locked position, then unlocked.......
2nd: Clean up the Tailgate very well, inside I used a vacuum and on top I used some Bathroom Foaming Cleaner.........
Next, I prepared the NEW to me, 2nd Gen 4Runner Latch Release Cables by pulling off the boot and injecting silicone lubricant spray.....
BELOW, notice the difference in the 1st Gen 4Runner Cable ends(and notice the rubberizing on the cable itself, plus the boots that they use, instead, on the 2nd Gen 4Runner cables...
I then took some of the left over CV boot kit grease from Toyota, and used it on all the 'gliding' mechanisms and places it should be, including the latch on the driver side, which I removed and cleaned up, well.........
First pulled out the latch mechanism and removed the cable...
It was pretty nasty.. Then cleaned up and greased everything....
Then removed the other side on the Handle Cross Gear(Cross as in it looks like a Cross, haha).......
Put the latch back in..........
Installed the screws, then pushed up the gate, and to my GREAT BIG HEAPING SERVING OF DELIGHT.... it latches and locks!
************************************************** ********
Below is a couple of videos..... I make lots of fun of myself... And, some of it is bad lighting, etc. But all in all, it's not THAT bad, lol..... I hope they help someone............
The Tailgate Latch Release/Latch Cables...........
************************************************** ********
So let's get to it..........
1st: Remove the Carpeted Panel, Metal Plate and then Plastic Film(The film can be brittle... Mine was solid.. Just a lil dried out on the corners. But pick a spot to start and peel it up and continue to peel it up all the way around until it's removed)...........
Mine was very dirty inside and on top.......
Here's a close up of the most common cable to wind up sticking/freezing up, passenger side... It can't enter the shaft to re-engage the latch mechanism...
The cable going to the driver side latch seemed to move 'OK'... but I replaced them both, for reasons I'll explain in video, more so, later(but briefly; The 1st Gen cables ARE DIFFERENT, in more than one way. They DO NOT have a rubber boot on the end that the cable slides through.... Rather, the cable itself is 'rubberized'... It rusts right through the rubber and seizes up inside the shaft/guide)........Driver side Cable.......
Here is the passenger side latch mechanism bracket, where the cable clips in/Second pic is the driver side one......
This is the Lock-Safety Switch Actuator in, first, the locked position, then unlocked.......
2nd: Clean up the Tailgate very well, inside I used a vacuum and on top I used some Bathroom Foaming Cleaner.........
Next, I prepared the NEW to me, 2nd Gen 4Runner Latch Release Cables by pulling off the boot and injecting silicone lubricant spray.....
BELOW, notice the difference in the 1st Gen 4Runner Cable ends(and notice the rubberizing on the cable itself, plus the boots that they use, instead, on the 2nd Gen 4Runner cables...
I then took some of the left over CV boot kit grease from Toyota, and used it on all the 'gliding' mechanisms and places it should be, including the latch on the driver side, which I removed and cleaned up, well.........
First pulled out the latch mechanism and removed the cable...
It was pretty nasty.. Then cleaned up and greased everything....
Then removed the other side on the Handle Cross Gear(Cross as in it looks like a Cross, haha).......
Put the latch back in..........
Installed the screws, then pushed up the gate, and to my GREAT BIG HEAPING SERVING OF DELIGHT.... it latches and locks!
************************************************** ********
Below is a couple of videos..... I make lots of fun of myself... And, some of it is bad lighting, etc. But all in all, it's not THAT bad, lol..... I hope they help someone............
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 09-30-2012 at 03:52 AM.
09-30-2012, 04:34 AM
#4856
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Great news on getting your tailgate fixed. Bet that is a big relief. I havent pulled my latch mechanisim and probably wouldnt hurt to lube them up. Probably need to do that. How did you get your gate down. I will need to wait til I get home to see the video as it is just to slow on my laptop.
As far as opinion on your lights, I would rather something that requires less power. For me it wouldnt be such a big issue as yours as all of the other things you run, but the biggest reason for me would be due to the heat they put out. Those bulbs get extremely hot. I eventually want to do the same thing as you have done just for that reason.
Take stock bulb, like the domelight and leave it on for just 1 minute. It will burn you and I dont mean just a little. I just dont like that much heat in one area.
As far as opinion on your lights, I would rather something that requires less power. For me it wouldnt be such a big issue as yours as all of the other things you run, but the biggest reason for me would be due to the heat they put out. Those bulbs get extremely hot. I eventually want to do the same thing as you have done just for that reason.
Take stock bulb, like the domelight and leave it on for just 1 minute. It will burn you and I dont mean just a little. I just dont like that much heat in one area.
09-30-2012, 11:43 AM
#4857
YEP, I hear ya.... SUPER HOT! I had it on last night before removing it.... for, ohhhhhh, 10 seconds? IT ALREADY was hot enough that by the time I put it down, HOLY HOT TAMALES, BATMAN! lol.... And there are 2 OF THEM! 8Watts each, too! So imagine the 2nd Gen Map Light with 2 stock festoon domes at 10W each? The Festoons get HOT AS HECK FIRE, TOO!
Thanks, buddy..... means a LOT from you, honest! And yes, I'M VERY stoked!
Thanks, buddy..... means a LOT from you, honest! And yes, I'M VERY stoked!
09-30-2012, 11:49 AM
#4858
Registered User
do the second gen cables with boots fit chef? it would seem to me that they did the boots to protect the cable better than the idea they had on the 1st gens
red 1st gen map light an the backer plate nice score
red 1st gen map light an the backer plate nice score
10-01-2012, 12:42 AM
#4859
Hey Dragon...... I'm sorry, man... I probably didn't word it in a way that was as easily understood as it could have been? The 2nd Gen Cables not only work... they're FAR better quality/will last much longer, if I were to guess.
Yeah, see, the 1st Gen cables have no boot because the cable is doused in rubber, everywhere but the last couple inches before the 'knot' on the end. They rust right through the rubber and on the ends and cause bad binding inside. It looks to me as if they literally swell up inside of that channel/guide. The 2nd Gens simply have a rubber boot and a bit longer metal crimp nut on before the end, too, .... which I'm not sure as to why, regarding he metal crimp nut. The boot allows the cable to just be, well, a cable, no rubber on it at all.. SO, it glides in the cable tube VERY easily, even when they'd never been opened.
However, the SECOND I lubed them up with pyroil/silicone lube.... HOLY SLIPPERY SLIP AND SLIDE, MAN! lol. They just nearly FALL down from up if you're holding it vertically. Even with the boots on, a lil shake, and it drops, like nothing.
Yeah, see, the 1st Gen cables have no boot because the cable is doused in rubber, everywhere but the last couple inches before the 'knot' on the end. They rust right through the rubber and on the ends and cause bad binding inside. It looks to me as if they literally swell up inside of that channel/guide. The 2nd Gens simply have a rubber boot and a bit longer metal crimp nut on before the end, too, .... which I'm not sure as to why, regarding he metal crimp nut. The boot allows the cable to just be, well, a cable, no rubber on it at all.. SO, it glides in the cable tube VERY easily, even when they'd never been opened.
However, the SECOND I lubed them up with pyroil/silicone lube.... HOLY SLIPPERY SLIP AND SLIDE, MAN! lol. They just nearly FALL down from up if you're holding it vertically. Even with the boots on, a lil shake, and it drops, like nothing.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 10-01-2012 at 12:44 PM.
