Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

A motor swap wont be happening for awhile just yet. I have a few other fires I want to put out before doing something like that. I agree that there is no cause for high gas prices, but the tree huggers are doing it to us. My wife has family in Oklahoma and they cant pump and they have an oil rig on there place. I am still looking for the best mileage. I will check out those you mentioned.

Didnt work in the shop a whole lot today but will try and get some pics of the tailgate soon of the cables.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I am going to post several things in the next few days........

1st being; LED Lighting research I've been doing.

* I'm fully aware that www.superbrightleds.com is one of the best as far as customer service... And I've read quite a bit of 'my Oznium dome light failed when left on too long', etc.. But I've read about a few others and I'd like to share what I've found

* I tested a Pep Boys 12 Super Bright LED Dome today(30 days refundable)... And I couldn't get it to fit, it's too thick lol... BUT, HOLY CRAPOLI, the thing was bright. I'd say 3-4 times brighter, no exaggeration, from my stock 3022-3175 style bulb.

* I also noticed that Sylvania is making one now... Supposedly 150% brighter, guaranteed... Just a festoon with a cloudy glass on it(opaque), to hide the components, I guess? But ONLY available in 36MM so far. (all the auto parts stores have them)

* I also noticed they're making some Bayonet (Ba9) bulbs... which is what I wanted to ask ..........>>>>>>>>>>>>>

WHAT SIZE BULB IS IN THE 1ST GEN 4RUNNER MAP LIGHT??? lol.... I am going to take it apart, but for now, just thought I'd ask. CAN NOT seem to find that answer. I'm going to read that thread I posted again, the guy on ih8mud.com who swapped in the 2nd Gen 4runner map light kit... See if he listed it. Again, just thought I'd ask as I'M SEARCHED OUT! lol.

* I saw these on superbrightleds.com , and considering that the 1st Gen map light bulb MIGHT be a Ba9... and also considering it's facing toward the center on both sides, NOT downward facing out the glass.... I assumed an LED replacement would need to be a 360*degree spread type, like this....>>>

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...9-led-tower/9/

Picture:



^^^ Probably not a bad deal considering it's 9.99$.... But I bet 2 panels in the 2nd Gen 4Runner map light kit would be HELLUVA LOT BRIGHTER, since the glass in the 1st Gen 4Runner map light that the light can get through is the size of.. well, less than a dime.

* Then I saw this, regarding the DOME or otherwise "Festoon" 3022-3175 sizes.... Curious again what ANYONE knows about these bulbs........ It's on this page 4th down from the top....... http://autolumination.com/festoon.htm

(It says; "LED CREE XPE SUPER High Flux/ Outfitted with the latest CREE XPE Super High-Flux Leds... These are CRAZY bright" ......... But what I'm NOT pleased with on the autolumination site..... They don't list "beam pattern" of light (360degrees, or 120degrees... Or maybe it's like a flashlight? NO clue!... But I DID do a lil reading on techy sites on this stuff.. They seem to be VERY popular? >>>>>>

Picture;



This seems to be the most logical solution for the door marker lights on my 4Runner (white and red lenses? Those)..... Maybe for the Deck lamp as well and POSSIBLY for the 2nd Gen 4Runner Maplight if I go that route...>>>

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...toon/238/1129/

Picture;



This being typed on 9-19-2012 at 1:13PM........

* I've found this one, from Autolumination, to be what should be a VERY reasonable fit.... It's 48 Super Bright Cool White LED's and is 38x38x4mm-thick.... So no 'lens' clearing issues... and it SHOULD be able to STICK, above the lens, as well, helping to add 'refraction' by then lens distribution nodules... And keep it enough away from the cover that it HOPEFULLY not look like 48 lil flashlights when looking up at the cover... But honestly, I don't care much about that really... Just want it to fit and stay put/stick to the area above the festoon. The festoon tongues DO rise above the platform as well... And so do these lil 'nipples' on the 2nd Gen 4Runner dome light body.... But this light SHOULD allow for good 'stickem' power and provide plenty of light. If it's EVEN 3/4THS as bright as the PepBoys one(which I'm assuming was NOT the greatest quality LED's)...then it should work fine >>>

Just scroll down to the '48 high power SMT display' panel one, around 66% of the way down the page(in the festoon section)....

http://autolumination.com/festoon.htm

Picture of 48 LED Array;



************************************************** *****

To be continued, Onward, and I have and will date it according to when I update... IT WILL get long..but whatever... It helps someone or it doesn't... Hopefully does hahaha.............

PS> But one more question; How do I jumper/bypass the buzzer connectors(i've removed it) so that My dome light works when I open MY DOOR?????? lol... One thing I REALLY miss, since removing the buzzer. BUZZER? DON'T MISS IT AT ALL! haha.

aviator

Can't you just select that option on the switch beside the dome light?
On my old 87 it was either on with door switch/off all the time or on all the time.
my 94 now is the same way...
having the buzzer hooked up should'nt matter... that being said I disconnected my door switch on the dr, side and now I have the same problem but the pax. door works as normal...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Pual!

Yeah, I thought so... and it didn't work with my other one either. I think YOU MIGHT BE RIGHT... I think, before I removed the buzzer.... I removed the connector, to prevent buzzing when I'd open my door. It still buzzed when passengers would open/leave it open, so I pulled the buzzer... I'm going to look. Not sure if they're the same on your year, to be honest. .... I just thought maybe the Buzzer was some type of 'circuit completion' or such, ya know? :confused:

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OK;

I ordered the 3022 Festoons with 4 Super High Flux LED's in them..... Ordered 4 of them, for now. Gonna try them in the Dome, door markers and Deck Lamp... Then I'll decide whether I need that 48 Led Array of SMT's for the dome. I JUST WANT IT BRIGHTER, not blinding, ya know? BUT, it would be nice in the back to have options... So I'm also looking to add the 2nd Gen 4Runner Dome light #2 that I have into the window wiper cover, just like this guy did, here.....

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...83&postcount=3 .... So, if I DO get the 48 LED array, and it's too bright for the front.. I could use it back there... Or vice Versa. I think the limited amount that I've need it in the rear would mean I just need enough light to 'see what I'm doing'... And Bryan in that link seems to have TONS of light from those 2- 4LED festoon 3022's that I had planned as well...... So, as I said, I'm going to try the 3022 Festoon 4LED ones all around, first, ...then if I NEED more light up front/back... I'll switch to the 48LED array around, etc. blah blah, lol.

Should have them all installed in a couple days and I WILL, as you know, do good pics and video

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Alright, obviously this LED topic is not interesting any more, hahaha... But I'll update it nonetheless when that stuff arrives I'm removing my window wiper cover tomorrow and hopefully picking up the missing "rivet" plastic thingymadoer that's missing... And everything else I will need to wire in that 2nd/2nd gen 4runner dome light I have for the wiper cover install...... Then my rear 4Runner Cargo area will at least be lit up well

PS> PLEASE, ...... does ANYONE have a clue on my dome light not working on the 'door setting' except when opening the passenger door? My door doesn't activate it... And the button and connector are all there. I SWEAR it stopped working when I removed the 'WARNING BUZZER'....... Does anybody know if that completes the circuit? I was thinking of asking Roger(4crawler)... But maybe Ian or RBX or Terry or ANYONE might know? Thanks guys... i'ma reinstall the buzzer just to conclude/verify BUNK, my theory that "THE BUZZER DID IT!" hahaha.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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nope, not my gremlins hahaha....

But rather, the GREATEST YOTA MYSTERY to many of us for many years.....

"In my 1st Gen(maybe many more)...Why wont my dome light work on the 'door' setting when I open the driver door... Only works for the passenger?!?!?!?!?!"

ANSWER: .......... PUT THE BUZZER BACK IN AND I BET IT WILL WORK! haha...

Yep, I'm just being silly by making it sound like a big deal... BUT, I can't TELL YOU how many times I've wanted to have that thing come on and I'd have to reach up in the dark with a drink and food or whatever in my hands! hehe... Funny thing is, ... I only removed it around 18 months ago... And for some reason, I'd not EVER noticed the correlation of 'timing of removal of the buzzer relating to dome light on 'door' setting not lighting up'....

SOOOOOOOOOO, now, .................... How do I bypass/jumper the pins? I'm going to look again at the wire... But look at your buzzer... there are 7 WIRES going to the freakin thing! lol.... I'm assuming it's 2 for each door, 2 for the key/ign.... and 1 for ground? Pretty sure the driver door 'Actuator wire' is red .... can't remember the markings on it. Just looked at it today. Anyway, There HAS TO BE A WAY to jumper those specific wires so that the dome light will work with the driver door opened, WITHOUT that buzzer in there, right?

That answers my question to 'Aviator(aka Paul)'.... "Does the buzzer complete the Circuit"????? YES, it does, self! lol.

bbrideau

not sure if the toyota door buzzer is the same as american door buzzers but in an old ford probe i had (yes i know I drove a ford, but the probe had a mazda motor in it so its a step up) the door buzzer drove me insane so i took a small piece of metal stabbed it into the hole and just broke the flapper metal or whatever the hell it is inside and voila no more buzz. dome light still worked and everything. Now I will in no way be held responsible if it doesn't work for you so i would suggest picking up a spare buzzer just in case but its worth a shot. If it works in a ˟˟˟˟ty North American car why can't it work for our superior Japanese trucks right?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey B,

Yeah, not sure.... NO CLUE how it's constructed... Not interested in spending too much time on it either, hahaha... BUT, I can say one thing concerns me with that idea...... IF, as you did, I poke that thing and make it 'buzz free', haha.. Wont there still be actuation on it? Would it use any less power? I Just wouldn't want it rolling on and silently buzzing, if YKWIMean? hehe...

What I thought about/noticed today(which is amazing that I'd never thought about it more, AT ALL, lol.....

1. There are 7 Pins in the Buzzer....
2. The buzzer is working with 3 things.....
.... A. Dome Light
.....B. Key JUST going into the hole and also if you leave it in ACC position with the door open(so it's saying, "Hey, stupid, your door is open!"
.....C. THE SEATBELT..... I had forgotten about this. So, now I just need to look at the wiring coloring... Then find a solid answer as to.....

* How do I jumper the door 'Open/Close' Depression Actuator Button Pins in the Buzzer so that the BUZZER DOES NOT work any longer?

And,

* Can I just jumper all the related components on the connector pins and keep my "DOME LIGHT COMES ON WITH THE DOOR OPEN" feature, ALONE, losing the 'BUZZER' FOR EVERYTHING ELSE?

Terry.......... I know you're busy.... but I'm betting you'll have something on this one! hahaha. I know it's not THAT BIG A DEAL to reach up and turn on the dome light... And maybe I could even wire the wiring at the pin directly to the Buzzer's wiring connector... Or directly to the DOME LIGHT? Gotta be a way to go 'BUZZER'-free but keep the dome light, right?

PS> I'm NOT TERRIBLE with electrical work... I just take a while to figure it out.... And I have to be honest... looking at those diagrams with the schematics, etc.? I LOSE IT! haha... It almost makes me literally anxious... THEN, once I walk through it enough times, then literally wire it up, making SURE everything is properly wired/not being grounded out, etc.... THEN I hook the power up and I have VERY lil doubt it's going to work.. But getting there, as I said? WOW

For example.... Just looking at that picture of the Connector for 'opening the rear window with a jumper' .... My brain starts to make a somewhat 'tinnitus' type squeel! lol....

I'm going to look back and start with that... Because, as I began REALLY reading up and looking at the pics and diagrams of thread that 'bryan' did on ih8mud.com?>>>>> I realize I'm REALLY going to have to re-read it several times until I get it.. Unless someone can PHYSICALLY show me in person, ya know? Seems pretty straight forward... BUT, .... somewhere along the way of reading and seeing those pics... Something in my head LITERALLY SHUTS OFF! I SWEAR I'm not making this up, guys! hahaha. I just don't want Terry or otherwise to think I'm not grateful for the pics and explanations.... I'm just a lil intimidated. BTW, ... Terry, I did QUICKLY get the climate cables once I dug in there on that parts rig at the yard... THAT IS WAY better as a method for me to learn! hahah.. Why do you think I wanted to go look at that one for the tailgate thing???

BTW... Bryan's 2nd Gen 4Runner dome lights front and rear.... mod.... Does that get wired like he did so that it will turn on automatically when the rear window is rolled down/'safety' thingymadoer is engaged and 'door open' light comes on???

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

GUYS? HELLO? Anyone theretheretherethere.....? hehehehe... JK... It seems like Yotatech has been dead lately.... Maybe it's just my thread and the ones I'm scribed to... But honestly? I can't take on any more subs, lol..... I can BARELY keep up with the ones I have now, especially if I don't check in for a day or 2! hehe...

I SCORED TODAY, .... well, I feel like I did! lol...

Wilmington, CA Pick-Your-Part got 2 1st Gen 4Runners, both in the last couple days..... And 86 and 87. Unfortunately, I didn't see this on the site until 3PM today... 2nd unfortunate event in the day? I got stuck in traffic from a wreck where they BLOCKED OFF PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY, RIGHT BEFORE THE FREEWAY ONRAMP! OMGOSH, guys... it was 50 Minutes to go 4 blocks! I finally got over there by 4PM, RAN back there and found them... Unfortunately, the motor was completely gone on one and half gone in the 87...... BUT, ....

Then I noticed, the 87 had Aisin IFS Manual Locking hubs on it still.. Got working on those. They're in PERFECTLY fine condition... never been off. The cone washers were even easy to get off. I even got the both lock and adjuster large bolts and star washer... So THEY'RE GOOD TO GO after I rebuild them.... Either as spares or to sale... haven't decided just yet....

Then grabbed one from each 4runner of the front mudflaps(THEY WERE PRISTINE in regards to tears, etc... NOT ONE tear on either of them.. So now I'll have an extra, plus a new one that I'd torn on the driver side :great)....

Then I saw the inclinometer.... It's red, but when I tried to adjust it on the 'side to side' portion... it wouldn't adjust. The front end and rear end tipping and altitude worked... But I couldn't be sure it would be fixable on the side to side tip over portion... so I left it. Kinda feel stupid about that. I hid it, I could get it tomorrow if someone can tell me, 'CAN THEY BE ADJUSTED INTERNALLY SO IT WILL REPRESENT PROPER 'TIPPING' DEGREES? Just on the center one'???

Grabbed both deck lamps from the rear of them(I have an idea, lol)... NO flaws in the Lenses... They must have kept these rigs FULL of crap, cuz they're usually at least A LIL cloudy and brittle, ya know?(I have a BRAND NEW uncut set of rear panels... So I CAN and WILL cut on these to fit the lamps on both sides(that leaves me a spare for something else I might do....).....

Grabbed a PERFECT Radio Bezel... And I mean PERFECT... not a single flaw on it, with the bottom portion compartment as well. NO CUTS.... Dang that's a rare find!

Grabbed a Clock.......

Grabbed a Rear Window Up/Down Switch ......

Grabbed a PERFECTLY WORKING and flaw free climate control cables section..... EVEN THE HEATER CONTROL VALVE CABLE WAS STILL THERE, NOT CUT! hahaha...

Grabbed a spare Buzzer from one so I can see about taking it apart and just using the 'connector'.... maybe see how it's 'wired' up, ya know?

Grabbed a bunch of Shell interior Trim screws as I'm missing a few(not sure what happened to em.. now i have enough )....

Grabbed one of the rear panel doors w/latch... PERFECT condition, not a single chip in them... I KNOW they're hard to come by. It's blue, TERRY! lol.... YEP, our blueberry blue like my old 83....

Grabbed 2 tools from the rear panel on the 86 for lowering the tire and lug wrench with cross bar slots in it...... AND, a 'bung wrench' style thing that I've never seen on these... for the lowering of the spare tire....

**** I walked up to the gate to pay, after 6pm, and they're closing.... Once again, "Cash Only".... ... Just TOTALLY stupid to put that on the people there late, grabbing parts you KNOW they're going to buy if they're still there! RIGHT?

I'll get pics, tomorrow........ But, as I was a lil ticked, I then asked, "How much????"...... To which she responsded, ..... 4 trim pieces, ... brake parts.... $40.00"......... WHAT THE HOLY BLESSINGS? hahaha..... Guys.... I paid 40$ for the one mud flap that I tore off, 10 years ago, ......USED! lol.... So I think I TOTALLY scored... And now, the big questions.........

IS THERE SOMETHING I'M FORGETTING? Here's what's gone from them, ...

Both motors, aside from the short block of the 87, are gone..... Both rear ends are gone....

BUT, what's there?

1. Both shells are there/trim is crap... AND, the liners are TOAST... But all glass is there and I see no water damage inside so the sealer was good.... Question; HOW MUCH DO THEY CHARGE FOR TOPS? I might do better grabbing one from a CL seller?

2. Both roll bars were there... Don't seem hard to find. So I don't know.

3. Interiors were TOAST! BUT, the SR5 gauge cluster was there for the 87... But it was an Auto Trans 4Runner/22RE.... MAYBE it would work for an Auto 3.0? I don't know.... Someone would have to tell me and then CALL ME by tomorrow to tell me they want it... And I'll get there early and pick it up. I DOUBT any of the Auto's had a regular dash without Tach, etc., right? So I'm guessing it's also not a very rare find?

4. The ENTIRE IFS on both was there... Disc to diff's! AND, I just realized..... The Auto would be 4.30's in the front, right????? ..... I'm probably going to grab those, tomorrow, no doubt! This brings me to, ...... All of these CV's, at full droop, seem to be in FINE condition! ....... Would I be wasting my money and time grabbing the entire front ends?

5. Control arms in tact, no cutting for the BJ spacers, etc. I have been CONSIDERING, whether now or later, doing a LT kit. MAYBE NOT on this one... But if I can find a suitable donor rig.... .I would do it. And I figured it would be nice to not have to lose the "core" like I would with mine, because they're cut? Then again, a donor rig would likely have uncut A Arms as well... So the Blaze land kit would probably be handled. HOWEVER, if I DID want to do it to my current rig... Then they would be worth it, DEPENDING on what they want at the yard, right? I could drop the entire front ends easily.. And I've removed the hubs on one and someone started the other on the 86, ...so I could at least get the CV's from either and rebuild them, then sell em... or just have spares, right? Couldn't hurt. I'll think about that.... it's a bit of work.. BUT, if someone, again, needs them, and is willing to pay FAIRLY, .... I will grab them and rebuild them for a reasonable price.

6. Both have back seats, but no pull tabs for the seats(Sorry guys, I know that's a HUNTED item! lol).... But, all the brackets are there. The red 87 even has the red interior, lol..... with pockets in the back seat area, etc.? But roll up front windows/wing windows, ...... I think the original owners put it together all crazily, "Auto and luxuries to a point, ...but basic on the rest", ya know? lol.

7. Both have the rear window wiper motors... But the covers are fuggered. HOWEVER, I forgot the lil rivets that keep it in.... so if I go, I'm on those from the red one.

8. SOME of the body was fine... And the blue one, .... NO damage on the front pass fender and VERY minimal on the hood.... Blueberry blue, very good paint for it's year, etc.

9. The charcoal can's were both there... I think I'll bring my mini compressor/charger and see if I can't test them. Mine is probably fine, but there's that, the EGR, the Vacuum rails, all kinds of other stuff in the back..... I mean, why not have spare OEM stuffs, right?

10. Both Grills where there. The 87's was a bit peeling... but uncracked. Light moldings where there. The 86's Grill was pristine, and I think the light bezels were as well.

11. Rear gates were both in great shape... BUT, the 87's window was up .... So I crawled back in for that other stuff. If I knew how to drop the window without power, I would.... But I think that's a bit much, ya know? But the blue one is down, yet the back panel is gone.. And someone was in there and might have taken something, cuz they took off the carpeted cover? I took a look at the cables, so now I have a really good idea how it works and what get's bound up... as this one was pretty bound up as well... ON THE RIGHT SIDE, just like mine! The 86's rear window seal was half gone too... I think that's what they removed the carpeted panel for? Maybe the motor is at least worth grabbing out of that one? The window motor?

12. Side Badge Trim was there on both I believe... The 87 at least was in perfect condition... NO CLUE how to remove it. Not sure I have the time to research it in the FSM, either! lol.

Anything else I should look for? In the dash, etc.? Relays? Was thinking of grabbing the rear window relays just in case... they're cheap. Visors were there as well, I believe.

Prices for the tailgates are 50$ + 3$ core + 20$ for warranty. ?????? Seems steep. But compared to what? hahaha. I guess 53$ without a warranty isn't bad?

26$ + 3$ core for A-Arms, upper or lower(isn't the core you eat from Blaze Land like 40$?) Hmmmmm,... I'd have to look up Toyotech's thread. Maybe just look up Blazeland? lol.

Dragon; Backing Plate (No Access) Price; $7.99 Core; $0.00 Warranty; $2.40 (What exactly does it all look like? I wouldn't mine, if it's not too difficult, grabbing one in good condition for ya, Dragon? .. But don't wanna miss something. That 87's axle is on the ground, removed completely now. I will likely grab the 4.30's out of the front, at least.... Maybe would grab the whole assembly, but they want too much I'm pretty sure. (I know those axle tubes on the one side are needed from time to time.... I have my 4.10's still, in perfect shape... So if I ever needed them after a Bigger motor swap, etc.? lol....

FWD Axles; Axle Shaft Fwd(<<<< is this right listing for CV's?)
Price; $16.99 Core; $3.00 Warranty; $5.10

(I think 40$ for both CV's would be worth it, no? NOT that I NEED them... BUT, couldn't hurt. And btw... JUST ACROSS from those rigs? A T100 4WD with CV's in it ready to go???? TOYO???? hahahaha.)

I'll update as I think of anything. If anyone is watching, maybe I could help out... if not, meh! lol.

Redeth005

holy crap, WOW what finds you had today man. awesome you were able to fine so much. thats good and i was already thinking about the pull tabs for the rear seats then i read that they were gone oh well.

Only thing i can think about that i would probably need off those trucks is the headlight thing-a-majig. the part that adjusts the headlights up more or down more. i think it is called the "Headlight Assembly" i only need the passenger side. Oh and the small tiny plastic things that hold the grill in place. i have like 3 holding mine lol If it aint too much to ask. And For the headlight assemble the only part i need is the top part of it. The screw and the piece it screws in to. mine is being held together with a thick wire(previous owners doing) Damn i'll take some pictures of what im talking about tomorrow morning. It's be nice not to blind people on the street at night every night lol

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PICK-YOUR-PART run tomorrow, 9/22/12;

Hey Richard.... thought you'd disappeared on me, man! hahaha...

Far as the grill clips.... Dealer, buddy.... don't use old ones.. They break just putting them in, even if I DID get them out in one piece... BUT, I will grab them and the "Headlamp Core Support Assembly".... You're gonna have to take pics... I'm not sure, man... You mean the 'adjuster portion'???? PICS lol..... Again, just a heads up.... They're cheap, the grill clips and fender yellow ones(that hold the fender trim in?) I have been grabbing TONS of those 2 sided clamp nuts though... THOSE ARE GOLDEN! lol....

TERRY, JASON, ANYONE, .... can the Inclinometer Center Side to Side Tilt be adjusted?(INTERNALLY! lol... I KNOW it has an adjustment button.. BUT, I'm just not sure if I can adjust it internally. WHAT I MEAN is this... like when you remove the front of a lighter, then push down on the gas lever.... then move the 'hi/low' adjustment over..... THAT kind of adjustment inside?... I can't imagine it's broken... Maybe he just over turned it?) When I hold it level..... It shows 30*degrees... When I tilt it over more, it will appear as it's flipping, lol... But doesn't seem to want to adjust to the left. I WILL grab that if it's still there, for sure.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PICS! lol.... I'll get more 2mrw... BUT, I need sleep tonight so I can get there early....

Some parts pics........

Some LED Lighting MOD Pics.....

DECK LAMP, BEFORE, NO FLASH, 2 SECOND EXPOSURE;



DECK LAMP, AFTER, NO FLASH, 2 SECOND EXPOSURE(I did the same on all pics, so it'll be a given, ok? );



Front seat lighting, BEFORE;



Front seat lighting, AFTER;



Door Marker Lights Lighting, BEFORE;



Door Marker Lights Lighting, AFTER;




NOW, with LED's for the rest/couple more;

Standing at Door with dome and door marker lights on, NO FLASH, same as before/And a couple standing back in the corner of the garage;



Standing back further with dome light/deck lamp and door marker lighting things up....





Guys,..... I'm TOTALLY IMPRESSED! These couple little 4-Super Bright LED flat panel LED 3022 festoons? LIT UP MY WHOLE GARAGE ENOUGH THAT I COULD SEE in places I couldn't really see nearly as well with the incandescent ones... JUST REALLY bright/but not too bright FOR MY LIKING.

I WILL be adding the map light Bayonet-Ba9's to the Factory 1st Gen Maplights first, .....before doing a 2nd Gen Maplight mod..... I mean.... Honestly? I could read just fine as it is now.... Let alone once I put LED Ba9's in those lil magnified thingy's! lol.... NOT quite sure it's gonna work really well with the LED-360 Degree display type Bayonets... Cuz the Map lights are different... They don't POINT down.. They're lighthing from the side, and I'm sure on reflectors? (terry would know).... BUT, ... I would bet DOLLARS TO DONUTS that they're brighter WITH the LED's than not.

That lil 3022 ??? >>>>>




PLENTY Bright if you have a Maplight like I do... even for the backseat, too! I was really impressed with the 'beam pattern'.... it IS, TRULY, 120* as they claimed. I think it's more using the dome cover.... Mine is pristine/cleaned up... So it's REALLY bright, white light... And the lens cover is refractive.. so it 'DISBURSES' light fairly well. Same with the Deck Lamp Lens Cover... It isn't TOTALLY manditory, if you don't have one, for now.... it will still be MUCH brighter back there, as you can see..... But it would help. And, well, they're 7$... so let's not risk ruining them, right?

I will get MUCH better pics with my Canon, soon, and with THE BACK CLEANED UP! Sorry bout that... Been parts and Home Depot and Lowes and MORE'ing it! lol.

RBX

Mark,
Looks good. I use the same LEDs, but I added one to the cap also(used a spare that I had). The other nigh I left them on by mistake, I have a switch to turn them on with the doors shut, and it didn't kill the battery. Got to love the low draw. I also added a second deck light on the other side in the rear. The info is in my build thread. I used a quick connect for the top and installed one in the can-back also. I love being able to light up the interior with a switch on my console.

jason in tn

You made some nice scores man wow. There is a thread around here somewhere or maybe ih8tmud or t4r about fixing broken inclometers so it can be done pretty basic from what I remember.
Tons of stuff I could use if you happen to go back, rear seat brackets all the lower ones, rear head rests I know I'm out of my mind thinking they might be there lol, the pockets in the rear passenger area, and anything else you think might be a nice upgrade for me lol.
Wow those leds make a big difference that's an upgrade I would like to do on both my runners at some point so I will be hitting you up for advice later on. Hope all is well with ya buddy.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello Mark..I just catching up on your thread. Still have a ways to go but here is how to fix the buzzer issue and still have your domelight.

Copied...
I thought I was going to fix a problem and created another. I always got tired of hearing my door buzzer alarm and first thing I did was find it under the Steering Column.

All was fine and dandy until I noticed that I did not have a dome light when I opened the drivers door. Passenger door worked and so did the switch on the cab. First thing I thought was the door switch was bad or dirty or corroded. I checked it out and it was good.

Another problem solved because of Yotatech. Did some looking around and you have to have the door alarm in for the drivers door light to work.

Also found the cure for the alarm on YT. Just bent the tab out a little so as not to make contact. If you ever want to hear it again, it can be bent back in.

Here is the Buzzer Box under the Steering Column.


Just bend the tab out from the bottom a little bit.


Here it is going back together. There are 2 tabs to the cover that I just pryed a pocket knife. Life is good now.


Apparently this is a fairly common problem. What I found on different threads is that a lot of the door switches and buzzers get removed. This was as far as I had to go to troubleshoot. Also I did find that by bending the tab you can control how loud the buzzer is.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

50 for a tailgate, that is cheap. You cant get one part off of a tailgate here for that price. Wish I was there, I would grab the whole thing.

Rollbar pad is hard to find. The rear pockets from a first gen is hard to find here. You can use a 2nd gen front pocket for the doors and those are easy to find.

Not sure on the side badge trim, usually a putty knife will pop them off. You can always glue them back on.

The cvs are $75 here. I have gotten them for $50 but that is only cause I do so much business with them. In your part of California, 4 wheel isnt really a necessity, so only the 4 wheelers would use them and for the most part the shaft are just along for the ride. The ones used for daily driving probably never been in 4 wheel. Sure your axles there are in much better shape there and I would use used axles from there in a heartbeat.

I tried to see if you might have missed anything. The buzzer is a quick fix. Probably 5 minutes and you can take it back to working if you want to. Slide the box straight to the passenger side and the cover pops open with a small flatblade. Getting the plug off is the hardest part.

Edited...I thought of a few things....

Jacks and handles are always missing. Seen you got a few handles though. The tailgate carpet pad is something I could use. Combo switch is something I see pop up occasionally but those can be fixed just by cleaning the contacts. You already said mud flaps.

Cold Start Time Switch. Just thought of it. I sent you a PM, but the fuse box cover most are missing. Glove boxlight, the bulb is at the top and the switch is at the bottom. Dont see many of them. You can get it by taking the glove box out.

For nuts and bolts I would suggest the timing cover bolts and the intake allen head bolt.

racerflea

Wow nice score man those led's are BRIGHT. So what made u go with them instead of oznium??

Redeth005

Oh Damn... Makes me wish I would have ordered some for mine too when I ordered my dashboard lights. That looks great man. Amazed at how bright it is. That's awesome man.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, guys..... I appreciate the props, input and ideas.... And I've printed everything out(Including the PM's)....

I'm not sure what you're talking about, Richard, regarding the lights... You'll have to call me, maybe? I'm late heading out..... Was up til 5:45am helping out with my Stepfather.... He's been...... It's just worse and worse, trust me.

Wanted to add something..... PLEASE call me if you have my number, for input...as I'll be out and able to just grab it if it's a good idea.

**** I FOUND an 85 4Runner, not running but not taking much to get running, according to him. COMPLETE, nothing missing, interior pretty good, suspension all there, 4WD working last year..... ETC.... 1400$ OBO! "Willing to negotiate"... Now, I wont EVER get my hopes up anymore, for many reasons... 1. it's probably gone by morning..they always seem to be. 2. Maybe it's salvage, I don't know yet, gonna call. 3. It may need EVERYTHING. hahaha....

I'll fill you all in on the latter.