ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

The search begins......... Just making 'link-notes';

Curious on this one, guys............ If this is truly "Altrom Imports", isn't it likely a reman'd OEM CV? >>>>>>>

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...405_0257336291

Then, .....You have the big 3 around me;

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...ner&vi=1272204

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search

http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...ts_components/

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Anyone on the 'Replace the Studs with Bolts'... actually done that? I'ma search more when I have more time and post up here what I find. I LOVE doing pics and video... I think it helps... wishing I could find a few pics of this, while it seems pretty straight forward(knock out studs with drift and BFH..... Replace with bolts, reuse nuts)<<< I'm guessing they mean the kind of bolts that have a spline like the stud, just not as long?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

REGARDING '''ALTROM''' CV's available at Napa, 2 times the price of their others;

Well, I called Altrom directly, after asking Napa and getting, "Don't have it in front of me, so can't tell you if it's made in Japan... Here's the number.... 1-800-828-1640." ......

* Speaking with an Altrom rep., I was put on hold for 10 seconds, then told, "NOPE, not made in Japan.... China." ............ I had asked her, "I'm trying to find out if they are actually Aisin CV's, reman'd.... And she told me, "No, they are manufactured in China, 100%".......

This is very depressing... Altrom used to be 90%+ Japan/Aisin parts, restamped with the Altrom Name........ I thought this might be interesting to those of us whom have often turned to Napa for SOME things. I might still, like Bearings, etc., which I KNOW in some cases are Japan-KOYO or German-Made like my Idler Pulley Bearing. But that, like I said, was pretty depressing.

Not to mention, the are 118$!!!! Compared to Napa's Gold product, etc., which are most likely also made in China and costing 59$ with 10$ core. WTH? I would like to dig further... But why? At this point, I guess the best deal and guarantee is more practical/logical, eh?

Gonna go see "The Watch", take out Mom and Stepdad for the evening.... But I'll be back and hoping to find the "Stud swap for M12x1.25 Bolts" thread in my list of links and GET SHOPPING!

RBX

Regarding made in china. I know that the Japanese have been doing this for some time now. For example I take Japanese style karate, and a Japanese made gi is expensive, most of these Japanese gis are made with china canvas. Just sayin. I'm all for not buying china made goods, but if the company is diligent about meeting the specifications of a product, it could be made anywhere with the same quality.

ToyoTech559

Your replacing the stud with a bolt with bi splines.
When I did mine. Didn't feel like spending more money on grade 8 bolt since I just got the long travel kit. I took my cv axles out reinstalled the nut till it was almost flush at the top. Took a hammer and knocked the stud out. Used vice grips to hold the top of the stud and used a grinding wheel to grind of the splines. Now the trick is to reinstall your new non stud/splineless bolt from the cv side and torque nut back on. Once you get it all done. Turn the cv axle to make sure the bolt or nut isn't gonna hit the axle housing.

ToyoTech559

Nowadays. I bet all the aftermarket reman and new axles are all made in china. The new t-100 axle I got for the LT are made in china but I figure lifetime warranty. Why not. Even oem ones will break and tear boots. I figure I'll got with life time to help save some money Lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, guys

Yeah, I know Japan is now outsourcing more than ever to China, largely due to the Nuclear disaster(and yes, before that as well, you're correct... REALLY got confusing for lots of engine builders when most of the bearings from Clevite{when they got bought out} and many more like ACL and such started having China made stuff with their name put on em... My machinist said it's almost impossible to tell if you're getting US or Japan made bearings unless you buy old/new stock.. And you can get US made Rings by Hastings... but yep, they make MOST OF EVERYTHING NOW! Just visit a walmart/kmart, RIGHT? ).... They've been so overwhelmed with backorders, etc., and haven't been able to catch up. Although, there still are several products, even at Napa, even the parts stores, that are made/manufactured in Japan..... But, I guess CV's are gonna cost me if I wanna be sure they're from there(So I guess it is best to rebuild mine using the OEM kit and have an extra set of lifetime ones to keep on hand, ya?).

RB,.... do you think the Altrom CV's I posted being 118$ compared to the rest of them at 60$ or so is due to 'quality difference?'.. Or is this, like many cases with Napa, just a case of likely 'price bumping'? lol. I've had my Altrom Clutch Slave for 150K, not a drip since installing it. But it WAS Japan made.... And sure, not saying that a product can't be made in China and be of quality... they make most of Samsungs TV's, along with Mexico, and they have a pretty decent rep, right? I guess it's just impossible to know without finding some 'CV TEST BLOG' or something, hahaa.

Toyo, thanks for that input on the splineless mod, hehe... You saying you didn't want to buy bolts at ALL? So you used the existing studs you have and ground down the splines, but left the round backs on em? And what do you mean by "bi spline"? Thanks

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

hahaha... Oi Loike this goiy! >>>

Redeth005

Lol Noice. That Doesn't look too hard to do with the right stuff.

ToyoTech559

Bi I ment no. Sorry I'm on my phone. Yea I already spent money on some other grade 8 bolts for something else. Was to lazy to drive to osh so I just grinded the splines down. Its still a hex nut so you can put a 12 or 14 mm wrench in it for install

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

He's great, isn't he Richard? hahaha... 'JUST GRAB A BIG F...... CATCHES HIMSELF.... COPPA HAMMA" THWAKKKKK! lol.

Thanks, TOYO! I REALLY appreciate you hanging in with all my queries, etc... I'm not trying to be a pain.. Just wanna KNOW what I'm doing and ordering and eventually ... I hope it will help someone on the site, ya know?

I AM DEFINITELY ordering the boot kit... NO DOUBT! BUT, I will probably see if I can find a set of CV's at Pick-Your-Part, as well... Why? Because then I'll have an OEM spare set.. And I'll already have the tools/know how on how to repair them as well. 50% off sale coming up in a couple days! Never know.

Might still grab the O'reilly or whatever ones as well... Just so I can get back out there and have a lifetime set on hand if the boot kit takes a while

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You are doing the jobs I need to be doing. I have a rotor out of round and need to replace a boot. It is getting harder to find stuff not made in China. Wouldnt mind if it was better quality. (If my father in law could hear me know.. retired Ford Union. But he has even admitted that Japan does better on quality).

Your rotors turned out nice. Never understood how they get out of round. Having those links to refer back to can make a big difference. 50% off sale...You are so lucky. Our boneyards have never thought of something like that.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HAHAHA... Yeah, I SHOULD be doing them, you mean! lol. I WILL, soon, I just have really been having a rough time with all the LIFE CRISES going on around me... And NOW, along with my foot (either metatarsal stress fracture or Neuroma or spurs(although I don't see any bump... but there is slight swelling). This pain is like KNOCK YOU OVER-TYPE when you move the wrong way or put too much weight on the balls of your feet or too much bend in your foot(you need to limp and turn foot in, which ends up causing knee pain over just a few days, but is the only way you can walk over .023MPH!, hahaha)......

^^ this has got me behind, in many ways... So it's taking me longer to do everything. It's also stressful, so it's making it harder to make a simple decision!

I can't wait to get all this work done, as I'm wanting to head up to wheel really soon... But of course, the constant back and forth on the skinny and fatter pedals, etc., etc., it's going to take it's toll as well, especially if I don't let this inflammation fully subside, etc., ya know?

Ordered 2; http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...!s!+axle+shaft

Ordered 2; http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/04428-35010.html

Will pick up the CV's from O'reilly, today, .... sometime around 5pm. I chose new, guys, because, well, NO WAY IN HECK I'm giving them my OEM CV's for 15$ Core Value, each! hahaa...... And obviously because I'll need them to reboot them, wont I? hehee... Anywhooo, y'all know what I'm saying!

I'm having trouble walking any distance without REALLY paying for it, later(the pain is 'MODERATE' when walking and lightens up a LIL bit as I walk further... but I still have to limp/walk on the outside of my foot, turned out/down, and if I DO walk any distance, .... I PAY FOR IT DEARLY, as I said, later on. Walking for my work, along with caring for my stepfather and their property, equates to a few miles a day, at least, anyhow! .... I'm gonna look into going to Pick-your-part, tomorrow.... Depends on 'which yard', as I want CV's from this sale, not much more, really...... Hopefully I can find a 4WD matching/useable set off a 4WD and snag and hide em for the 50% off sale. I'll letcha all know how it goes.. Just dreading all that walking! Wish the ground was smooth there I'd use a skate or something .... HEY, maybe they'll let me bicycle around???? haha.

PS> To those whom have been discussing some things with me on this reboot...... I'm curious why the guy in the video didn't change the inner CV boot when doing that job? He seemingly knocked the outer CV off and reboot'd the outer, then smacked the outer back into the inner yolk, with the new boot on/cleaned up, after packing with supplied grease.... Or did I see that wrong?

PSS> I saw several threads on guys using the WARN hubs, where 4Crawler and others mentioned, "If you had Auto Locking Hubs, and you switch to Manual, you can just leave the hubs in 'LOCK' when wheeling on trips and then just shift on the fly as you did before"...... This makes sense...... But what I'm wondering is, can the same be done when using the Aisin Hubs? I might revive that dead thread, lol.

rworegon

He only replaced the one boot. Maybe the other was not torn so he decided not to change it. It's false economy to only replace one boot when you have it torn apart.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

SURE, I hear ya! I second that "good measure is good practice" when dealing with things you have to tear down. Like knocking the studs out and grinding them down... WHY NOT, RIGHT???????????? Takes a few minutes, saves HOURS in some cases! I would probably just grab new bolts, but Toyo got me thinking... why not just use what I have,.... and they ARE bolts, just have to knock em out and make em 'splineless'!

Thanks, RW... very much appreciate the input. Maybe the guy having him do the work asked him to save every penny? I think he said something about "I wouldn't do this", but hey, you do what you're asked, right?

toyospearo

Rig is looking good as always!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

THANKS, Toyo! Coming from you, ....that honestly feels to me like Old "Iron Man Ivan Stewart" is giving me the thumbs up! hahaha.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Guys, ............... Just to summarize, if anyone is in a hurry to either reboot or grab CV's, New or Used.... Here are the site links and part numbers>>>>>>>>>

* OEM Toyota Boot Kit for BOTH SIDES is the same part number... Just order 2 kits/Insert this part number in whichever Online OEM Toyota Parts Seller you choose.... ;

............ 04428-35010 (I chose www.toyotapartszone.com and will get them delivered in 2-5 days for $76.95, both sides(They ship both boot kits on the same order for exactly the same shipping price, around 11$)>> /Boot Repair Kit/Complete with boots, Rings and Grease for each boot/ Yellow Grease for Inner CV and Black Grease for Outer)

************************************************** **********************

Parts Stores CV Axle Replacement Choices....... (I chose O'reilly because I can't determine who is best, etc., etc., and they're all pretty much the same price for NEW, which I also chose so I could keep my OEM CV's and repair them/reboot them)...KEEP IN MIND; My rig is an 87 4Runner... I always recommend entering your year and all other specifics, just for 'warranty' sake, etc.>>>

NEW: >>> ($69 NO CORE)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...!s!+axle+shaft

REMAN'D: >>> (57$ W/15$ CORE)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...!s!+axle+shaft

AUTOZONE: (Listing of all of them)>>>

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search

NAPA: (Listing of all of them, including Altrom)>>>

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...0070%2b2070015

************************************************** *******************

Thanks again, guys.... ALL who have helped me out along the way...

This should be fun! hahaha. Time to read up, copy and paste every helpful tip and hint and GET CRACKIN THEM NASTY TIGHT FLANGE NUTS! hhaha......

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Seems like the pain gets worse with age.. Used to could take alot and keep going. I am getting to where I like good used factory parts over new store bought. Just seems like quality isnt there anymore. Not just to save money, but for the quality issue. I try to get what I can from Toyota but there are somethings that just wont fit in the budget.

Anymore, probably 99% of the 4 wheel drives arent used for 4 wheeling. Even met a few in the past that didnt know what or how to engage 4 wheel drive. Finding good used shafts works for me.

I have shifted mine on the fly, only do it at lower speeds and I tend to let off of the gas when shifting it. Never had any problems and do in other trucks then just Toyota. Mostly when on icy roads. If the main highway is clear or patchy I will take it out and then take side road where it is not cleared so as to avoid the main traffic and inexperinced and just kick it in while still moving.

When out in a field or where I know I will be getting into a sticky situation, I engage it before I get into the situation and just leave it in.

ToyoTech559

with the warn or aisin manual hubs. you can leave both of them locked and leave the t case in 2wd. it just keeps the axles and front diff spinning while driving. than you can shift to 4wd without having to get out to lock the hubs. i prefer to get out and lock them as needed. it saves your cv boots because they are not spinning when unlocked. cv boots get alot of wear when your driving and turning, the rubber boots rub more.

now on the trail i leave the hubs locked at the same time i stay in 2wd till i need it. i like to start off in 2wd and see how far i get. its much funner.

oh you could have gotten reman cv axle with core charge. just dont return the oem one and it will cost you $15 on top of the reman cv price if you wanna use reman and not new. i went with new because it wasnt that much more and i just dont trust aftermarket companies doing remans, the cv axle was once abused that is why they have it cuz someone got new ones. only reman i would get are from toyota dealer but even with my cost, its expensive..