ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
05-30-2010, 07:33 PM
#421
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the positions for the sensors are different for the 22re then the 22r (different intakes) so I don't remember where they are on the 22re. Somewhere on here I think maybe superbleeder posted up a photo with all the locations.
05-30-2010, 07:54 PM
#423
So the To Do list is this, with the engine stumbling in this order:
1a) get a reading on the timing when engine is acting up(When it was running perfectly, before the build, I would jump the timing connector-E1 to E-something, and it would lower the idle....from what I've read that's normal)
1b) jump the timing connector and see if it smooths out if not remove jumper and proceed to step 2. If it does then we definitely know it is timing related and not fuel.(I'm pretty sure this will lower the idle, but I will see if it smooths out the miss and hesitation)
2) pull AFM connector ( I am thinking it won't stay running with this disconnected )<I'M THINKING YOU'RE RIGHT on that, it should stall in seconds> but if it does and it smooths out then your problem is the AFM, if it doesn't change and it either stays running (barely) replace connector and procede to step 3
3) pull TPS connector (Idle usually gets lower especially if it is causing a high idle or an erratic up and down idle from being bad but should stay running with this disconnected)<Since this started, b4 the build, the idle goes up when the TPS is disconnected, ...also heard that's normal, cuz it's GULPING fuel at that point> If problem stops then it's the TPS if not we will go from there.
4) your engine has probably warmed up already and stopped acting funny so take another reading on the timing
1a) get a reading on the timing when engine is acting up(When it was running perfectly, before the build, I would jump the timing connector-E1 to E-something, and it would lower the idle....from what I've read that's normal)
1b) jump the timing connector and see if it smooths out if not remove jumper and proceed to step 2. If it does then we definitely know it is timing related and not fuel.(I'm pretty sure this will lower the idle, but I will see if it smooths out the miss and hesitation)
2) pull AFM connector ( I am thinking it won't stay running with this disconnected )<I'M THINKING YOU'RE RIGHT on that, it should stall in seconds> but if it does and it smooths out then your problem is the AFM, if it doesn't change and it either stays running (barely) replace connector and procede to step 3
3) pull TPS connector (Idle usually gets lower especially if it is causing a high idle or an erratic up and down idle from being bad but should stay running with this disconnected)<Since this started, b4 the build, the idle goes up when the TPS is disconnected, ...also heard that's normal, cuz it's GULPING fuel at that point> If problem stops then it's the TPS if not we will go from there.
4) your engine has probably warmed up already and stopped acting funny so take another reading on the timing
PS> I'll refer to the book for the temp. guage sensor, but I couldn't seem to find it before...time to look again I guess, lol. That wire looks like crap, too!(exposed a bit at the connection to the harness side, then fine going into the thermostat housing.)
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 05-30-2010 at 07:56 PM.
05-30-2010, 07:58 PM
#424
Registered User
NP man, I hope these steps help you, I am by far not the best mechanic but these are all the steps I usually take to troubleshoot EFI problems. This is one reason why I would rather stick to Carb'd vehicles. 
05-30-2010, 07:59 PM
#425
Also, regarding the TPS, .....
When I was having this issue, even before the build, I would pull that TPS connector and the idle would go up, to normal level again, but it was still missing, ...just a higher idle-more fuel-thus, able to keep running.
When I was having this issue, even before the build, I would pull that TPS connector and the idle would go up, to normal level again, but it was still missing, ...just a higher idle-more fuel-thus, able to keep running.
05-31-2010, 12:53 AM
#428
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I am having this exact same problem, and i cant figure out what it would be.. im looking at going with an lc header and then doing a supra afm swap, being i am on my second 22re afm and the problem went away for a little while but is back... so ya her's a bump for some info
05-31-2010, 05:18 AM
#429
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as far as the coolant the system may just be burping itself, if it had air in it it will take more fluid out of the overflow, mine did this, I had to refill the overflow a couple of times, now it stays pretty much the same level. hope that helps.
05-31-2010, 08:13 AM
#430
I am having this exact same problem, and i cant figure out what it would be.. im looking at going with an lc header and then doing a supra afm swap, being i am on my second 22re afm and the problem went away for a little while but is back... so ya her's a bump for some info
05-31-2010, 08:22 AM
#431
Hey LIVES4CRAWLIN, ......when you say "EXACT" same issue, do you mean --- Cold it's fine, then after a minute crap, then smooths out once FULLY warm? AND, IMPORTANT....to me anyway, lol, ....did you buy a used AFM or Reman? I found a site with Reman's, guaranteed, for 230$ or so. They also have TPS for around 120$, I believe.
05-31-2010, 08:27 AM
#432
**** PLEASE, catch up if you could, ....anyone?^^^^****
I'm going to try some things xxxtreme suggested, when I have a hour or so this morning, ....but I wanted to ask a separate question;
WHAT do I seal the BVSV threads with? Coolant is coming out a lil bit, but not even enough to leak to the ground...STILL, I WANT IT FIXED, and the sleeve didn't work. Teflon Tape was suggested, but I'm actually wondering if RTV or some other liquid/paste-plumbing high temp stuff- on the threads would be better?
I'm going to try some things xxxtreme suggested, when I have a hour or so this morning, ....but I wanted to ask a separate question;
WHAT do I seal the BVSV threads with? Coolant is coming out a lil bit, but not even enough to leak to the ground...STILL, I WANT IT FIXED, and the sleeve didn't work. Teflon Tape was suggested, but I'm actually wondering if RTV or some other liquid/paste-plumbing high temp stuff- on the threads would be better?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 05-31-2010 at 08:28 AM.
05-31-2010, 09:15 AM
#434
Thanks, Xxxtreme, I really appreciate you taking the time to answer me, bro, .....especially on a Holiday! lol. I will try that....is that the blue stuff? I have some Toyota Dealership Black RTV, it dries REALLY fast and seems to have solved my issues from before...NO OTHER LEAKS, very happy about that! But, it says for Oil pan and Cam cover(??? I think) on it, ....should I hit up Toyota and see if they have a Water Pump one? I used the Blue RTV on my Water pump, seems to be fine.
PS> I'm still working in the kitchen, but I'll be heading out soon to check all that stuff you pointed out(listed). I was wondering, could a bad fuel pump cause this kind of intermittent issue? I would think it would be pretty consistent problems caused by that, and I'll be replacing it when I have more time(tank's nearly empty, too, so that'll help, lol), but from the THOUSANDS of pages I've read on my problem(TO NO AVAIL), I doubt it's the pump).
PS> I'm still working in the kitchen, but I'll be heading out soon to check all that stuff you pointed out(listed). I was wondering, could a bad fuel pump cause this kind of intermittent issue? I would think it would be pretty consistent problems caused by that, and I'll be replacing it when I have more time(tank's nearly empty, too, so that'll help, lol), but from the THOUSANDS of pages I've read on my problem(TO NO AVAIL), I doubt it's the pump).
05-31-2010, 10:03 AM
#437
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hey man sorry for the delay. been lazy on the holiday which is bad considering i have a half tore down sfa underneath my 85 that i need to finish rebuilding, but anyways... yes same problem but the funny thing is mine comes and goes, and whenever its bogging down u can hear the afm "slapping" if that makes sense, but yes when it does do this its runs horrible when cold, doesnt idle, and whenever i am driving it like this i truly have to ease into the throttle until around 2500 rpms or so and then its like im turboed and a bat outta hell... i went with anther afm that i had on a parts truck. but ya truthfully im starting to think its something o2 sensor related, because thats the only thing that would act differently when warmed up, or the tps
05-31-2010, 10:10 AM
#438
Registered User
I have a question that's ben bugging me today, do these 22re's have the same type of bi-metallic CSI/Thermo Timed switch/EVSV setup that the MarkIII supras had problems with leading to a TSB on them? if so I am wondering if the problem lies in the bi-metallic element of the TSS. Which If I understand correctly is an EFI vesion of a carb choke.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 05-31-2010 at 10:13 AM.
05-31-2010, 10:17 AM
#439
Not sure, Xxxtreme.....mine has a BVSV, the one on top of the intake with a two vacuum hose lines coming out of it. They hook to that vacuum rail that bolts to the intake mounting bolts. I have to track them back but I have been told those go to the charcoal canister, to keep water out of the fuel when it sits?????? Someone else said it goes to the EGR, and if this ends up being the EGR or Modulator, AHHHHHH! Let's see, .....
EGR; 130$
EGR Modulator; 72$
AFM; 228$ reman'd
TPS; 130$ new
HMMMMMMMMMMMMM, .....THIS IS WHY THE '$' IN MY SIG! lol. ....don't worry, guys, I'm not going to just replace everything for the heck of it .......with my luck it would wind up being a fuse or wiring issue and still do it after EVERYTHING is replaced! LOL.
EGR; 130$
EGR Modulator; 72$
AFM; 228$ reman'd
TPS; 130$ new
HMMMMMMMMMMMMM, .....THIS IS WHY THE '$' IN MY SIG! lol. ....don't worry, guys, I'm not going to just replace everything for the heck of it .......with my luck it would wind up being a fuse or wiring issue and still do it after EVERYTHING is replaced! LOL.
05-31-2010, 10:21 AM
#440
I have a question that's ben bugging me today, do these 22re's have the same type of bi-metallic CSI/Thermo Timed switch/EVSV setup that the MarkIII supras had problems with leading to a TSB on them? if so I am wondering if the problem lies in the bi-metallic element of the TSS. Which If I understand correctly is an EFI vesion of a carb choke.
