Z's Confederate Toy

Will do haha. I just need to know which part you are looking for so I can pull it and set it aside for ya

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hope the cruise control works out for you. I am hoping you become the guru on cruise control as that is something I want on mine. The parts truck I recently got has it and I will need to figure how to get it on mine.

This might be something we can both help each other on. It will be a little bit but I will post links and info as I find it and we can stumble our way thru it. No cruise is a real pain on long trips.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, I'm HOPING it's just the Cruise Control Diaphragm Apparatus(The thing in the video that I was focused on. Has to be the whole thing and should be a 'known working unit', because taking it apart really compromises the diaphragm lip that the plastic rim seats in. Ya know? Waiting to hear from "Kiyo"(Jason).... He said he will send it if he can find it.

Guru? Hahaha. Well, as I said to Zach... "HOPING it's just the diaphragm!" I have no way of knowing if the 'Module' in the kick panel is bad... Heck, I don't know what if the diaphragm thing is called the "Actuator" or if the actuator is the module in the kick panel/driver side(that big orange box? I think it's orange, can't remember, lol).. I know the clutch button that the pedal presses has a lot to do with some of them not working... Sometimes the clutch doesn't release enough outward, etc. But I was told, "If the blue light comes on for cruise, the unit in the kick panel is working"... I could also get that blue light to flash, but I can't remember how I did it... I think I turned the cruise dial on the wiper lever on the column, with the Cruise button on the dash was depressed/lit up... and if I held the cruise switch on the column lever on, it eventually would flash. I think you have to be doing 25mph.. Anyway, I'll find out soon enough if the diaphragm unit alone does the trick. HAHAHAHA!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I will do a video of how I did it(for now) and instructions on installing the wire for the 12V Aux Car Adapter(to make up for the crappy voltage/amperage ability of the stock lighter plug).

First, I took the battery/splash guard in the fender and such out because I was going to run the wiring through the fender.....


BUT, ....then I changed my mind; First, I ran 10AWG Heavy Insulated wire through the large harness grommet on the firewall near the charcoal canister... Then up through the underside/near the dash-back and ran the 10AWG heavy insulated wire to a Male/Female quick release wiring set up so I can plug in my 750W inverter using Male/Female quick release, or plug it back into the 12V car adapter type..... I also used 10AWG heavy insulated ground wire(it's for amplifiers, etc.).........




Male connector that's loose in the last pic wound up on the 10AWG wire then plugging into the red/+ wire for the 12V adapter.... (Not pictured, but I'll get some).......


Installed on the dash bezel below/side of the radio...


I drilled out a small hole in the dash support that basically holds up the whole dash and radio, etc., then mounted the hoop side of the ground wire to THAT, with a good metal screw and lock washer/slightly lathered in dielectric grease(also used that in all the quick release connectors and contacts on the fuse block. JUST a TEENY bit).

Then, very lastly, connected the heavy insulated 4AWG Constant Voltage Supply wire to the Fuse Block, AFTER installing the antenna constant hot wire, 8" Dick Cepek 12V Constant hot Wire and 10AWG wire to the 12V car adapter plug on the dash....



Yeah, I pulled the splash guard and battery for nothing, .... but it helped to get stuff routed under the fusible link OEM box, etc.... Plenty of room in that firewall grommet to route the 2- 8AWG Heavy Insulated Wiring to the 2 Amps, when I'm ready to mount them(Might be a lil bit of an issue.... There is a tab under the passenger seat that I'd have to shave off, so that one of the amps can sit flat... And have to look on the driver side/under seat as well for how I'll do that.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Looks really good Chef! I like the auxiliary fuse block that you used, it looks like a really good quality! I just got done putting one in my runner for the electric fans. I just re-used one off my 85' parts truck, it works for now, but kinda looks cheaply made, lol. I may have to upgrade down the road, where did you purchase yours? (sorry if you already posted the info and I missed it, lol) Nice work!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

THANKS, MAN!

Well, we use what we can when we're not able/wanting to grab new parts for projects. Besides, you can always slap one in there and just move the wires over to it, right?

This is a name I mentioned a few pages back... Hmmmm, can't remember off the top of my head. It IS a marine block... But Del-Tech, maybe, is the brand? I should have reposted that, sorry man... I'll edit that post and slap the name up there.

* I got it at RV and Trailer Supply in Lomita, CA, on PCH(Pacific Coast Highway).... but I'M CERTAIN, now that I know THEY had it, that most any decent RV/Boat and Trailer Supply Store should have them. It's very similar to a Blue-Seas>>> HERE

It came with 20 or so stickers for 'E-fan', 'Lights', etc., which I will try to use for 'shnazzy' effect, lol. I need to get it up off the fender, eventually.. but for now, it's fine. If I wind up in Lake Havasu.. the fuse block is not likely to be my main worry! lol. But I have a plan on that, mentioned that a lil in the video.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

That is a nice write up and a good clean install. The factory lighter is barely up to par. I dont recommed people using it for things that draw alot of current. I have made a note of this page on my computer when I get to this point.

Crimson Yota

Thanks man! That means a lot. It's nothing to brag about yet, but all in good time. Lately I've just been taking off little pieces, refurbishing them, and putting 'em back on. Last night I spent 2 hours refurbishing the power steering and radiator cap Just little stuff cause I get bored.

Luckily my PO didn't rig anything questionable on mine.. but it's a rust bucket so I'm just trying to combat the cancer right now.

I really like your style of keeping your rig clean, yet capable. That's what I'm trying to do.. not a show truck (although yours very well could be!) but not a hacked up, junky looking wheeler either. Keep it up man and I love how clean that fuse box came out!

"G"

Looks good, question though. Why did you use a marine fuse block? Why not a high power car audio type?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Woot! lol.... Always grateful to hear from ya, Terry. Hope all's well. Thanks! And yeah, that lighter wiring has melted down in MANY of these! lol. Besides, ...the wiring for that wont even handle my 400W inverter with Car Plug. Those car plugs were intended to plug into something like the CRV I use on occasion(which never had a lighter in it to begin with.. Just a '12V Aux' label on the flip cover! lol.)

Thanks, man! I love that lil green machine you got! I can see it, with some work like Terry, above, does, taking NEW SHAPE BEFORE YOU KNOW IT! He does LOTS without breaking the bank, ya know? Very wise yard hunting, etc. and home made ideas for 'fixes' as well. You should hit his threads up and I'M SURE you'll find some helpful tips!

[quote="G";51928991]Looks good, question though. Why did you use a marine fuse block? Why not a high power car audio type?[/quote]

U mean like this? >>> [URL="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057T41XQ/ref=asc_df_B0057T41XQ2050837?smid=A18ACDNYOEMMOL&t ag=nextagusmp0358793-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0057 T41XQ"]HERE[/URL]

I wanted one that can handle quite a bit of amperage and also handle multiple sizes of wiring. I have 18AWG on that Power Antenna Constant wire, 10AWG for the Aux 12V Car Adapter and will run 2- 8AWG wires to the 2 Amps, 600W Max and 800W max(probably no more than 700W combined RMS)... I don't THUMP-THUMP too much, which is why I got the 10" JL single sub box(on top of the fact that my buddy was pretty much giving it to me, lol)... And running the 4 channel to the 4 Interior speakers... it shouldn't need more than the block can handle. I AM running a Separate Fuse Inline Monster Fuse Housing for the 40A fuse that 4 Channel requires, which will keep my Max AMPs needed from that block still at around 90-100A. Those boxes are meant to handle lights, fish finders, Isolator kits, etc., etc., on boats.... I hope it will do just fine for this. I prefer the pull and plug 2 prong type Car fuses, too. So that's another reason. I'm not an expert at this, but I hope this will be ok for what I need it for, ya know? NONE of those things will effect "Motor/IGN/EFI, etc.".. And I used very heavy insulated wiring, and each wiring is plenty to handle a load for what is being pulled on it. With 4AWG feeding the block... and most likely not having EVERYTHING running at once(like the 8" Lights, Amps, 12V power), I don't think I would have any meltdowns, lol. GOSH, I hope! lol. Both inverters have their own Fuses, as do the AMP's... So I'll learn quickly if I've 'underdone' things, lol. I think with amps running 300 and 400W RMS, 8AWG/Heavy Insulated to each amp should be plenty able to handle the current capacity. (Ian or maybe you can tell me "NOPE, yer a silly!" at any time... I'MA GRATEFUL LEARNER! lol) I believe this block is rated at 180Amps?

RMP8080

Mark, you may want to put a high amp circuit breaker inline with that 10 gauge wire, these can be opened manually in case of an emergency....

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Bill, howzit? Yeah, I have one, just for the 4 channel. That has 2- 30AMP built in fuses... then I'll have a 60Amp breaker and 30A in the fuse block(Just to keep it able to work, ya know? haha.. Wont work without a fuse in each line I add). The 2 channel has 1- 30A built in... so I'll just have the 30A in the fuse block. I think that's good, no?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

JASON, my homie.... check it out... I promised I'd torture you with this pic... And while I KNOW, you sayyyyyyy, "Dude, you're just gonna make me have to pull over"... YOU KNOW you gotta take a look at this Spare rib Bliss, right? hahaha.....

Trimmed, silverskined and CAKED in a personal favorite Dry Rub I do........


THEN, as I was heading down to the store, today, LOOK WHAT THESE PEOPLE MOVING OUT THREW OUT ON THE CURB! >>>>

Electric, too, "H20/Electric- Cold/Hot Smoker"! FREE, best price in town! hahaha.....>>>



They ALSO threw out this... Which I'll use for some pool side fires this summer with an occasional kabob-fest! >>>


The latter actually make GREAT 'LARGE PLATFORM GRILLS!'.. Toss in some mesquite, second grill that was there, and VOILA, you can fit a whole pig on this thing! hahaha.. Just need to drill out some vents and it's good to go for dual purpose!

vang_22re

Mmmmmmm I can smell that slap of ribs over the forums. And it smells good!!

timbuxton

wow almost 100,000 views! awesome to go through all the pics!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

TIM? ..... thank you, sir! (to be honest, I don't even know how to see how many views... In the sub list? hahaha) Anyway, I hope it helps a few people along the way(even if that's just motivation they need, ya know? haha)

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

SOLVED; "GOT CRUISE CONTROL?"

Hahaha...

Firstly, THANKS TO MALTESE4RUNNER!!!!!!! He found 2 he had, one tested fine, got it in the flat rate box the next morning, USPS dropped it off this morning!!!! WOOT! hahaha.

Funny thing; When I opened the box, Adam? It seemed to look a lil different(You know, when you're so anxious to see if something is right/will work, etc. ,right? haha)... It was the area that the cable nuts tie to the actual actuator... On my 87, it's a "U" type support, as you can see in the videos.. In the one Adam sent, ...it was just an "L" shape. I figured, "Meh, can't be an issue, same distance I bet"... THEN, ... I looked at the plug....... <<<< I thought, lol. It was 3 prongs in a triangular type connector.... I COULD HAVE SWORN my 87's was a 2 prong(More like the 'LOOK' of one that plugs into the back of a portable stereo, ya know? ) .... For 10 minutes, I'm thinking, "GOTTA be a way to make it work, right? Hmmmmm" then finally went out there... IT'S THE SAME PLUG! hahahaha. OK, then I'm thinking.... "Knowing my ratio of 'it worked out great' to 'oh crap!' .. it'll probably be my cruise control module in the kick panel, etc., etc."... You know, being negative due to my past track record! hahaha.... But man, I think I set a record for getting that thing installed! 30 seconds? hahahaha. Drove up the block, put on Cruise control.... Held the actuating button on the wiper lever for a couple seconds.... let go.... AND IT STARTED TO DECELERATE! HAHAHA.... But 1.5 seconds or so later, 'VROOOOOOOOOM', got back to the speed I'd set!!!! And, ADAM, I CAN'T TELL YOU HOW STOKED I WAS, MAN! THANK YOU, SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ........ Heck, in fact, hahahaha.

Just thought i'd share that, cuz it was SO FUNNY, minutes later, looking back on how I reacted from the time it got here! hehehe. I AM SO looking forward to setting the cruise at 65mph on the 40HWY and relaxing my legs while listening to the new MP3 book I've been DYING to get into! (Wont hurt that I've also refreshed my entire AC system and charged it up with some 'R12', new seals, drier, etc.... ME NEEDS AC FOR AZ! lol)

ONE MORE TIME; THANK YOU, ADAM, YOU'RE A VERY SOLID DUDE! And equally as much; THANKS TO ALL THAT OFFERED! That really made me feel good, especially right now... Things haven't been, well, 'GREAT'? haha.

One more thing to check off the list in the "restoration" story!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WOOT! hahaha....>>>>

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

I wish the 2nd gens had cruise control like that, i've got two faded buttons on the wheel that have something to do with it, takes me about 7 min to get it right :/

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

Cool, Mark! Glad it worked out for you. I hope it makes your trip to AZ easier.