ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

AFM;

1. All preliminary(1st Stage w/out moving vane) testing checks out ok.
2. Secondary Testing for the "Vane- Open/Close/Sweeping" testing(all on "2K Ohm Setting, since 200 is my next lowest and not able to measure above 200ohm)....

...a. closed, ".258" (Which I assume means "258.00", RIGHT? lol)
...b. FULLY opened, "0.989K"
...c. SWEEPING, THIS is what I'm asking, Roger, etc..... "I hit 1200, 1400, even 1600 ohm (1.400, 1.200, 1.600, set at 2k on mm)....

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02 Sensor;

Swapped in the NEW-Denso from Spark Plugs.com;

NO change in miss/haven't had time to check for mileage difference yet.

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ECU;

1. I'm fully aware that these are RARELY known to go bad.
2. I've tested most everything at the ECU, both voltage and resistance checks, more than once. NOTHING stood out as odd or 'wiring might be an issue', ya know?
3. I now have removed the Salvage Yard Donor and Re-installed my ORIGINAL ECU.
.....a. I need more time to run it to check and see if it's just relearning stuff's
.....b. BUT, it seems a TINY bit less 'chunky' at idle. Same full power and no hesitation
.....c. Still notice a small miss at the tailpipe but not quite as much

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Catalytic Converters #1 and #2;

1. Obviously, I'm running a new CAT. The old one had two very prominent purple stripes in it and obviously, it was not working up to par any longer(since I passed with flying colors, comparatively, after installing a new one)..... But could anyone tell me if it should be turning 'GOLD'??? Any smog guys? I don't notice the 'striped' purple bands, few inches apart, like on the last one I just removed. Rather, this one, the entire thing is turning GOLD. ???
2. I did a Video of the CAT that I removed, to show the coloration, etc. I saw a "Example Poster" on the wall at the exhaust shop... I didn't look further than the one that was similar to mine.... which according to the poster was TOAST or at least running WAY TOO HOT, lol. So I'm just looking for another example of 'how a CAT should appear' in coloration. NO one? lol.

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Did a few more videos on running, before and after new 02, before and after new 02 AND ECU.... etc. I'll upload them in a few, just have stuff to do first.

Thanks, guys, for anything and everything, lol

RMP8080

sure you don't want to teach that SMOG class.....LLOLL

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hehehe... Yeah, I'm sure. But I'll pass on anything I learn, FOR SOIT'N! lol.

Chickenman

after reading, my carb doesn't sound too bad... just kidding

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Chickenman.... SERIOUSLY? hehehe... I know, I know... had one myself. 83 and another, actually, 85 Carbed. But see, that's the thing... I'VE HAD 5 22REEEE's, .... never had a miss like this, nor issue with smog, etc., etc......... ESPECIALLY WITH MILEAGE of 10mpg on the worst! LOL. .... Anywhooooo>>>

thought I'd post up some videos i've been doing, just to catalog this GREMLIN HUNT! lol.







Then, just a look at my CAT that I had to replace. (And, the hole for that 02 Flange is around 1/2" or MORE, plus the 02 gasket, before the 02 reading element even get's into the LC Header pipe.......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5l0d...1&feature=plcp

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Just wanted to add(to what was said in the videos);

Seems the rig is running a little less chunky with my original ECU back in. It's DEFINITELY different, even in the 'oddities' dept. Strange.... Anywhoo.... I ran with the New Denso O2 sensor for quite some time(2 hours) before slapping back in the original ECU from my rig. So that's how I noticed, that when I put in the original ECU, it was definitely noticeable, the differences. Maybe over a couple days it will re-adjust back to the same crap? lol. We'll see. I'll be posting mileage from this tank asap, also.

As I mentioned in the last video, the New CAT doesn't seem to be getting nearly as hot. That could be in part due to improved EGR flow/due to running the stock exhaust? Meh, anyway, I'm Curious to see what some others who are running the same LCE/Etc. set up I had find over time with mileage/CAT-life expectancy, etc. Seems Roger/4Crawlers mod's helped a bit, for sure. I'll be watching Grego's rig for a while to see if he notices anything due to the LCE set up as well.

bobbybouche

OMG, did anyone take some cliff notes on this monster of a thread

baddest94

Hey chef glad to hear you passed smog ( so glad i aint gotta go through that LOL) and i did hear you miss hope you get it tracked down man. PS hope everything is well with the family

aviator

Just a wild thought here mark...

you know you don't have to physically "be" in one of those non smog CA counties... just get a mailbox so you have an address there and register the truck there... if anyone asks why you are so far from "home" you're just visiting family/working in town temporarily...
then you make a road trip once a year around renewal time and take care of biz.

Nervo19

Congrats on passing the smog inspection. How often do you have to have the inspection done? After the truck is 25 yoa do you still have to have it done? In VA if a vehicle is 25 and has antique plates we don't have to have it inspected any more. Mine's only 23.

In the "what did you do to your Toyota today" thread you posted a picture of your stock manifold and said you had it blasted and surfaced...Say What? Do you take it to a machine shop or what? There are no "we blast and surface while U wait" shops here...And did you paint it yourself? It looks great. I have an exhaust leak I'm going to have to address eventually.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, man, and I'm glad for ya too! lol. Yeah, most people are like "LIVE WITH IT, MOVE ON, GEEESH!", lol... But when they come here in person, they notice it enough that they end up trying to fish it down with me for hours! lol. Annoying is one thing... USUALLY RICH/SOMETIMES LEAN/EATING CAT's AND SUCKING FUEL, ..that's another, right? lol.

Thanks on the well wish'ns! Appreciated from all the Family! It's rough, but we'll make it

It's not a wild thought.. whatchu talkin about, Willis? hehehe. No, honestly Paul, ... I don't mind digging into it on this one(especially now that I have plenty of time to figure out whatever's 'iffy', whether small or potentially big)... I mean, it's either too rich(likely) most often, and/or too lean. Either way, at times, it's GOT to be lean with those Nox numbers and GLOWING HOT CAT I had before the new CAT. That, in combination with wanting to maximize my mileage and YES, get rid of that 'rumble in the jungle' that annoys me through the seat.... They're good enough reasons to pin this down and just, well, 'get it right'. I've been in so many that don't have the power this one has, etc., .... but NONE OF THEM have a miss. Not one of those motors is shaking/intermittently from side to side. And most of their mileage's put mine to shame! lol.

It's a good idea... I hear ya! Just rather find the freakin gremlin once and for all and be done with it, ya know?(I'ma bury it DEEP, like 'in the deepest cave in South America' Deep! lol).

*** I do have to add... Since putting my original ECU in, it's slowed the rumble down a lil bit(not sure how much has to do with the Exhaust change and 02, but before putting this ECU back in it was still rumbling more than this)... Nonetheless, it's still there. I have a couple hundred miles to go with this tank(HOPEFULLY) before I can deduce how much/lil any of this helped, lol... I'll be sure to post that up asap. ***

Every 2 years you must smog a vehicle(Unless it's brand new/7yrs then, I believe? OR, unless it's EVER labeled a gross polluter... In which case I believe it's every year in which you MUST go to a "B.A.R."/Official Government Smog Station... NO MORE PRIVATE is allowed after that).

25 years thing ended here... I think CA stopped the 'CLASSIC' status on any vehicle newer than 78? Can't remember... But they'll do away with that, too, watch! lol.

Far as the Manifold, etc..... Yes, I have a great machine shop in Torrance, CA, part of "www.japaneseautocenter.com", and I just called up and asked, and Phil's guy there said, "SURE, come on in, we'll grind it down"... He did, and when done, sand blasted it really quick for me, inside and out. Did it for me, quick/cheap in 20 minutes and sent me on my way.

I then took it home and shot it as well as possible with acetone to remove any finger-grease, lol... Then shot it with Super High Temp Alumicote Paint. Let it set over night, then installed it, wearing Gorilla/Latex Gloves; Then start it and run it to full engine temp... Then let it cool for 1/2 hour or more... Then repeat, .... should be set.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

If they are going to end the 25 year thing makes you wonder if they are going to raise the standards someday. They are trying their best to get rid of the older cars.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys;

Curious on something:

Seeing that my tachometer is reading 750rpm and I'm actually at 1000rpm(figured it out at the smog test)...... is it more likely that the "IGNITOR" is 'iffy' and causing this? Or maybe the wiring therein????????????????????????

I've been setting the idle by the Idle/Air adjustment screw on the throttle body for DAYZ, .... but obviously been setting it wrong according to the ACTUAL RPM's, right? However, someone just told me, "The ECU sets the idle, and all you're doing by screwing that idle/air screw in and out is adding more air... which will in turn add more fuel via the ECU"..... ?????? That doesn't seem right, considering it's 'un-metered' air, right?

I then remembered the Foreman at the local dealership(He had it for a week, trying to find my miss, couple years ago, btw)... he told me, "This idle/air screw is out WAY too far.... Something is not right".... But I can't remember what he did, "2.5 turns out"? etc., etc., etc. lol. This is a new throttle body that I got at my local salvage.(it had less slop in the throttle plate pivot arm). Almost every 22RE I've seen has had that screw almost all the way in, minus a couple turns out. I could take a pic, just curious what someone might know about how seriously that can effect things/how much does it really control idle/etc.????

Thanks, just checking. I mean, I took that screw out to clean out this wad of carbon, months back.... Seemed to help me be able to screw it in further and maintain idle at 750(or what I THOUGHT was 750, lol)....

"G"

How to set that screw is in the fsm.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I figured as much.... been looking, can't find it(not lots of time lately, either)... Got a page/section maybe? (I only have the 88-FSM) and most of the EFI/IGN sections copied out of an 87 FSM..... Again, don't see it. Must be looking right past it or in the wrong place.

Someone has it(even just committed to memory), toss it up here, please?

Thanks

thspittingllama

honestly you seem to know more than me on these Toyota's. i went to school for diesel. however i seem to keep finding myself thinking of valve spring issues Ive seen on heavy equipment. idk might be some thing to look into, maybe not. I'd hate to run you into a wild goose chase. but still how old are your valve springs and do you think that could be a problem? if not i'll keep looking into things for ya. (mostly cuz I'm curious myself) but best advise i can give through this it is to "KISS" it! Keep It Simple Stupid! most of these problems are simple and right in front of you the whole time.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey there , Mr. LLAMA! Nice to meet ya... (sent you a PM. Didn't mean to overload ya... just letting ya know what's up/been up, etc.)

Yeah, I'm sure it is sump'n simple... But, it must be one of those 'simple mysteries' that I can't seem to find, lol.

Answered in the PM, but for here, ....

* New/ Eskinderian Dual Layer Performance Springs(yeah, it's actually 2 springs per valve)

I need to get on the fuel pressure testing/FPR and Damper Testing, just to be sure(but, I just have a feeling they're just fine, like everything else I've checked, lol) Worth a shot though, simple test.

I'll also yoink the CSI and bottle it to see if it's running on/etc.(considering the mileage factor and miss, especially after open loop, never know, right?)

The "Tachometer" being 250RPM off(says 750 and is actually 1000) has me curious as well. Was told it's not that unusual, but mostly those thoughts were on 50rpm or so situations.....

Hear me out, guys.... 'Is it possible that the ignitor, which is supposed to send the signal for RPM to the tachometer in the gauge cluster, is, well, I don't know... 'SLOW IN THE HEAD'? LOL..... I KNOW, "Ignitors just go out, 99% of the time"... Granted, and I accept that. HOWEVER, couldn't there be a wiring issue of some kind going on that could 'retard' the reaction time of the Ignitor.... possibly causing a miss? fuel to get out unburned?(which would help kill a CAT faster, no?)....

Just thinking out loud... I have to wonder how many actually KNOW the 'actual RPM' of their motors... Considering what I'm seeing here. Sure, most are probably right on.. or close.. But, how many have no clue they're off like that? And secondly, WHY would it be off, as I asked before? IF that 'message' being off also relays another message that "spark timing IS OFF".... NO WONDER I wouldn't be able to ever get it 'JUST RIGHT'(Again, just hypothetical, lol). BTW.... doesn't the ignitor also determine 'INJECTOR PULSE TIMING'???

I hear ya and feel ya, LLAMA! "K.I.S.S." is exactly what I would like to stick with. Just need to do more thorough testing of some things like the ignitor, which I'm not exactly sure I can be too thorough with considering the testing equipment I have, lol.(I have SOME cool stuff... but no high tech meters, etc.).

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OK/ For future Reference for myself or anyone who needs it;

MA-8/MA-9 in the FSM covers the "Adjust Idle Speed" for 22RE-22RET

MA-6 in the FSM covers "CA Vehicles Only; Inspect Charcoal Canister"

MA-8 in the FSM also covers "Set/Adjust Valve Lash"(which is also covered more further on)

EM-2/EM-3 in the FSM covers 'Troubleshooting/Rough Idle' (which includes 'Ignition Problems; Coil, Igniter, Distributor / Vacuum leaks, including Throttle Body, pulling air in after AFM on pipe, etc., incorrect idle speed, EFI system problems{DOH! lol}, overheating, compression and incorrect valve clearance)... lol.

EM-4 in the FSM covers "Poor Gas Mileage", which includes(Fuel Leak, Air cleaner clogged, Incorrect IGN timing, EFI system problems including; *Injector Faulty, *Fuel Cut system faulty/ spark plugs faulty, EGR system always on, Low compression, tires improperly inflated, clutch slips, brake drag)

Just figured I'd share what I found/where I found it. There is more in the IGN section regarding in-depth testing of the Ignitor, which seems to need a really impressive Meter/Tach... Which I don't have.(The "EGR always stays on" thingy I think has lots to do with 88+, due to EGR temp sensors/cooler/Heated 02, etc., which mine does not have. But I could see it always being stuck open as a problem for any rig, right? lol)

I'm not suggesting "It must be my ignitor!" hehehe... Just really curious why the idle speed is off so much(250 RPM).. And, well, I figure I should get a Tach and plug into the IG port on the Diag. Port and get the Adjustment Screw set right to 750 RPM(Which the FSM CLEARLY says is how it's set, at least in up to 88 Rigs.... 800 RPM for 22RET). I also 'suppose' that having my idle at 1000 RPM could be OF SOME issue, for a couple reasons.

1. The RPM being over 1000 comes very close to tripping the fuel cut system, when I'm braking(And I'm sitting in a sea of red 80% of the time out there! lol).

2. The RPM being at 1000 would be consuming more fuel/bringing up temps, no?

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Just talking out loud. I'm kind of stuck in, today, so I'm trying to lay out a plan of testing a few things(Including fuel pressure Regulator and Damper). Wish I knew what exactly was causing the RPM's to be off in the gauge(whether it's just the gauge is tired or the Ignitor is goofy)... But I suppose, again, that trying to get the Ignitor tested/confirmed good can't be a bad idea, yeah?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Adjusted IDLE Adjustment Screw down a bit, and it's odd;

After driving around a bit, it seemed to be right back up to 750rpm on my gauge! lol. At other times when stopping, it would go back down to around 600rpm on the gauge(which is still probably around 850rpm in reality).... Really seems too low. No bogging or stalling, nothing like that.. JUST FEELS too low.

Hopefully borrowing the TACH from my neighbor, this evening. Not sure when he get's home and I couldn't get away long enough to get over to HFreight.(YES, HF, THAT'S RIGHT, you heard me! HEHEHE... JK, but really, I WILL NOT spend more money than I need to at this point, period! lol)

Chickenman

i think 750 is low for efi? Can you rent a tach from Orielly's? I know they rent out some tools, that way you don't have to waste money at HF?

...Mine idles way too high (stupid carb, butterfly might be slightly open.... blah blah blah)...