ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ok, well, I had a bunch of pics to share but either Photobucket is messed up or it's MY computer and Adobe Fplayer all screwed up(or again, just on my puter).... And I'm about to snap a cranial twig so I'll just type out stuff, lol............>>>>>>>>>

1. I inspected the EGR-to-Modulator t-pipe.... It's COMPLETELY clean, and I mean 'like new'. I actually stuck a 12G wire down in there and with no resistance it bottomed out on the other side of the pipe... So I KNOW that, at least, is clear.
2. I bent the wire a bit and forced it down into the bottom end of the EGR Pipe... I could turn it around and hear it flapping on every wall w/out hang up.. So just as I remembered, it's clean in there
3. I removed two of the right side bolts and left the stud to head EGR nut on, but loosened... Then removed it from the plenum(the other 2 bolts) and tilted it back. I could see that it's REALLY clean in there, just as I remembered.
4. Peered in the Intake with the rubber elbow off.... It looks nearly new, nearly like when I pulled them from the hot tank. TINY build up, nothing remarkable. More like a lil tan film forming in spots.
5. Installed the New Modulator
6. Double checked timing
7. Inspected the fuel lines(return and feed to filter and rail)... Both could EASILY be blown through with just my lungs, creating a nice 'BLUBBLURP' session in the tank as I did so. I also remember removing/replacing my fuel pump and the condition in there, to be honest, was prisitine. Not one spec of rust on anything regarding the assembly nor anything I could see inside the tank walls, etc.(thanks for the idea and instructions, Terry)

Now.... what I DID find interesting is this;

When I installed the new modulator(last thing I did), I had to hit the store before 9PM to drop off the 'Redbox' stuffs, lol... After warming up, I noticed it was REALLY chunky at points.... It was like it was rejecting the modulator(not sure how best to word it, lol)... Then, I remembered, that on many threads, guys would tell people repairing that stuff, this, "Dude, make sure you reset the ECU"... Most would ask why, as I did initially... The answer was, "because, even though your EGR system isn't electronically connected to the ECU.... EGR DOES effect how the ECU runs things when an EGR system is jacked up. In reality, it's recirculating exhaust gases.... So if those gases are not there, it's going to somewhat choke the stuff back out where the EGR was trying to pull it in... right back out the exhaust but NOT having gone back through the intake.... This removes the 'second burn'(so to speak) from the picture, where it's somewhat cleaned up(whole purpose of the EGR, right?)... This also creates a MUCH richer 'reading by the 02'.... Why? Because it's reading gasses that are supposed to have been burned off.... So the ECU says, "Woe, lean it out".......When it leans it out, .... internal combustion temps go up."........ Does that make sense to you guys? I mean, it mostly does to me now. lol.....

....Summing that up, if the Modulator doesn't work, the EGR CAN'T work. NOT saying that did the trick... we'll see... but what I DID notice right off the bat was, that it ran kinda crappy after going into open loop with the new Modulator. I will reset the ECU tomorrow... But I'm starting to wonder if it was ever going into open loop. That would POSSIBLY make sense, right? lol... (Terrible Fuel Economy/Smelly Exhaust/Failing Smog).. I would think just failing to stay in open loop would cause failure of smog, wouldn't it? At least in CALIFORNIA? lol. Like I said, we'll see.

I also noticed something, at least I THINK I DID, haha... >>> Before replacing the modulator, I think I mentioned that, "even after warming up, the exhaust was still pretty stank"..... I can't be CERTAIN as to how much less 'stank' it is, now...But I could literally put my face right over the pipe and wiff and it was NOT super stanky, with that 'nail polish remover' smell any more. It did almost smell like stuff was burning off, like the faint smell of a header burning off a lil 'stuff' when it's first ran. Wonder what that is... ? It wasn't strong, just that 'I COULD smell it where I couldn't before'.

Anyway, I'm just speculating until I get it back in there.. I'm going to reset the ECU and run it for a while with that RXP Gas Kicker in there for the rest of a tank..... (bout 2/3rds), then slap in a half tank of premium91 at 76 Gas Station, drive it for a bit and then call him when I'm on my way so I can get it right in there(He told me to do that and he would roll me right in).

************************************************** ***************

On a side note;

Something really strange happened. After noticing, that with the new modulator it was a lil chunky at first, I also noticed it started doing something it was, months ago. When I came to a stop light, I noticed that, while it was bogging down a lil(to almost 550rpm) it would idle back up when I turned off the lights/radio. The voltage didn't move, but the idle sure did. After around 20 minutes of driving, turning it off while I went in the store, then starting it again, ....>>> it didn't seem to do it much if at all any longer. I'll check that out tomrrow as well, with a load. I'll test the alternator output, loud output,... you know, all the tests, haha. It just kinda freaked me out because I had that issue for a while, just a few months ago.... "Voltage Load Effecting Idle". What's REALLY strange is that it didn't do it at all until I installed the new Modulator! lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Looks like my 'Firefox' is the issue. Google Chrome worked just fine in pasting the pics. For some reason, Firefox is not allowing it to update/install, nothing. Without it, I'm not even able to 'copy' pics from Photobucket in any way! hahaha...

OK, here's dem pics.......

The fuel lines I forced air through(they were TOTALLY free of any obstruction)....



Just a top view of the Vacuum rail to Modulator set up/EGR, etc.... Plus, pic of the new Modulator I borrowed(SHHHHH! lol)......


Pic of the Pipe I checked out to see if it was clean(the one feeds Modulator).....


Thought I'd throw a pic of the CAT up that I'm running.. I wanna call up some shops I know and ask them if this is the right one for my rig... If not, I'm heading back and asking them to swap in 'STOCK SIZE' CAT, for now... or give me my money back for all the drama I've been through. One thing I DO know is they really don't make many mistakes there.. Been there 40 years doing ALL types, including commercial.. So we'll see...


I guess God felt I have had a rough week/month/year, lol.. So He must of nudged my buddy(he said, "I felt TOTALLY PUSHED to call you man"...lol)... to drop me off a gift..... He's heading off to the Middle East... Bout all I can say about it cuz it's pretty hush hush(shhhh! lol)...


WIN! lol. I felt STRONGLY about giving him something and he allowed me to... 50$... Not bad, eh? lol. Should make for some nice surround sound movie time at the Camp site, eh? hehehe

I'll update asap, guys, promise!

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

Hey bud, with all the pc problems you had, maybe you should get a Mac...
I do computer support all day long. Most of the problems are PC..a few Macs......
Think about it...

dirtdobberoffroad

Im sorry I have not read every single page but when you rebuilt you engine did you put the stock cam back in? Reson I am asking is it kinda sounds like you lost vacuum there for not working the egr or the distributer the way it should....just a thought.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey,.... guys... I'm depressed enough! hahahahaa. JK...

I hear ya, Anthony... I would love another MAC.... mine got stolen a bit back and I just never bothered.... Funny thing is that people complain incredibly bad about Vista... but 7 has been more trouble to me BY FAR! lol. I know, another gremlin for the Chef, lol. BTW, the rig sounds SICK!!!

Dobber....

I initially did put the stock cam back in.... The machinists I used first to rebuild for me, ...well, let's just say I wouldn't beat someone with that thing it was so toasted on the rocker journals of the CAM! It was toast after 3K miles.

I swapped in a 261.... It's pretty moderate, not sure on that one. Good point though, I'll look into it just to 'know this stuff's in my head', lol.

"G"

When is this thing going up for sale?

775Toy

Nice audio setup ya got there. Should sound great.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Not any time soon... But wow, that made my day, man! lol.Thanks, G!

I sure hope so... Actually, yeah, it will... JL are very nice speakers. These are good ones by them... 400W bridged continuous to that JL and 800W 4Way to my 6x9's and 4" Blaupunkt's in the dash... should sound pretty good I think. Just gotta get some time to wire it all in, ya know? GRRR! lol

Thanks, guys.... Honestly, I mean that, it made my day, hahaha.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, ....I cleared the ECU and drove it around a bit. Once again, it chunkied on my after initial warm up and even sounded like it was going to backfire on the first restart... Then, after driving around a half hour or so, getting up to 60 or so then 45 for a bit, then stop and go... It calmed down. At first, before I restarted it a 3rd time, the exhaust smelled a lil funky.... I went in the store, then sat with it restarted again for a couple minutes.... throttled it a bit, then slowed it down on the RPM... went back to the tail pipe and I SWEAR it's like I smell nothing! lol. Strange thing is that it seems 'hotter' there. ??? Maybe it's burning off a lil residual carbon and getting it's 'timing/injectors/ecu relationship all set up again' with all the sensors, etc.... But what has me concerned is that if I replaced this Modulator and somehow allowed something else to kick in now and it's fubar?? I"ll have to let it get cooled down all the way... Then start it up and see if it acts wonky on me again.

I know, it could all just be coincidence.... If anyone knows that it's ME, right? lol.. But seriously, if anyone has any ideas on what might be going on with that 'chunky' stuff.... I'd appreciate it. After yesterday, I had the idle set. Then, after starting it up today(AFTER RESETTING THE 'ECU', it idled up only to 1000 and then wanted to idle down to around 550rpm after reaching oper. temp. So I set it back to 750rpm, drove around all that I said, and it seems to be holding at 750 now. Thing is, ...the Idle Air Screw is now turned out more(when I set the idle)... Does that likely mean that something was 'reacting' to something(MAYBE the Modulator not working, whatever)..and after resetting it, it's trying to go to specs and it wouldn't work where I had it cuz the Air Screw was in further before? Okay... now I'm just confused, ....too tired right now to think straight. I'll look back into it later, promise! I just sure hope it doesn't act wonky again when I start it up cold next time. Drove great, no hesitation, knocked out all the power I needed it to around town on some 4 lane straight aways...... Just wonky at first, even after warmed up. HMmmm. lol.

rworegon

Chef, it looks like near the modulator you have a bolt plugging a vacuum hose that goes into a ?sensor? Where does that hose normally hook up too?

westjohns yota

yeah mark whens it going up for sale anyways, on your little "issue" your haveing ive never messed with a 22re, now an r i could help ya all day long, i guess thats why i always choose an r over an re, that fuel injection stuff is just all a big puzzle to me, injectors have to be timed right, cold start ijc have to talk to the ecu and the time swicth, etc etc, just slap a weber on top and be done! i think you need a good road trip! cmon down to flordia!

aviator

as for adobe/pbucket et al... I heard a news report about a virus running around that was calling for an update to be installed that was really malware... supposedly 'fox was catching it and not allowing it or something like that... I think there was a patch from 'fox that was supposed to fix the lock up...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

It's just blocked off at the plenum(on the 3 port vacuum thingy). I blocked the Cruise one off and one is blocked off at the factory(without an option? No clue)... The third IS hooked up and goes to the VSV for the FPR.

I DO NEED A ROAD TRIP! lol. Still waiting on insurance to provide some respite care.... It better come quick... I'm running/have nearly run out of steam. Yeah, I've never had a problem with an EFI rig like I've had with this one. Although, I'm not sure it's the EFI system giving me issues at all, ya know? For the most part, once you get them going, they're trouble free. (replace a sensor here and there over a quarter million miles or so.... Meh, lol.

Hmmmm.... I'll look into that, thanks, Paul.

************************************************** ***

I still haven't had time to go out and restart it/run it to see if the computer has adjusted to everything. Either the modulator I put in(NEW) is doing it's job and has revealed that the EGR is actually compromised... (doubt it)... or the Computer had adjusted to all that "whatever", where it leaned out the mixture and now is re-setting itself???? We'll see. Either I have an underlying issue with the idle moving a lil bit on occasion/chunky behavior due to something EFI/IGN/....... or something,... ahhh. lol

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OK>>>>

I found time before I had to leave(1:30pm) to start it from cold/warm it up/ drive it like a Boot Camp Kid! ...... lol......

It warmed up from cold, starting at 1100rpm, as it's supposed to

It idled down to 750 and held, as it's supposed to

It drove,.... w/timing at 5*BTDC and New Modulator,.... like a raped ape, as always....

I stopped at the store to let it idle and wiff the exhaust... Smells virtually odorless(I know, probably taking years off my life doing that too much lately, hehehe).....

I then drove it back up the CRAZY hill I live up... It was full power and no hesitation and full of kick, even hit 50 before usual(just barely, nothing dramatic) and then 60mph by a couple hundred feet later while still on a lil incline/leveling out....

I pulled in the driveway/garage and took a wiff... It's smelling much better than it was before.

I do notice a lil bit more of a miss in the exhaust pipe. It's like a pup-pup-puppup-pup-pup-puppup kinda thing.... Kinda back to that lil miss I noticed even before I had it rebuilt the first time. It's had a TINY miss since rebuild and before.. But I can't 'feel' it as much in my seat, ya know? It's strange... it's like I exchanged one problem only to notice another.. But not enough to stop me from trying to pass the test...

I will check the few sensors I can when I have time in the next 24 hours... Then hopefully tomorrow I'll take it in. Meh... whatever, ya know what I mean? lol. At least it wasn't bucking and such like last night/night before.

One thing I want to add.. I'm still curious how much of an effect the AFM's Cone/Ambient Temp Sensor has on things. Seems like when it's cold out/humid... I get that idle up and issue thing. It's a sunny day, and as usual(IIRC), it's purring for the most part. I can't see a coolant temp sensor or anything like that having anything to do with that 'thing'... So I figured it might be something 'ambient temperature' related, ya know? Make any sense? Could have nothing to do with it.. But curious. I wish I could just swap out all new parts that I haven't replaced and see which one solves it/if any... But alas, it doesn't work that way... and I WILL NOT keep throwing money at this thing like when I started(I've learned, i promise! lol).

you guys rock!

RMP8080

Hey Mark, I was thinking....well something like that... what about using "C" Form on the motor....also One guy I know said to use some alcohol in the tanks?
I'm not a person thats know these things, hope this helps.
remember, you can move to a state the does not have smog tests for vehciles

Outsane

denatured alcohol or heet in the yellow bottle I have been told works...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

RETEST; .............................

Long story short, ...... "FAILED" again

Results were nearly IDENTICAL to the first, even with the timing retarded and new modulator........

The tech said, "You know, I would really now lean toward your 02 is not reading fast enough, thus, the CAT can't keep up with the 'dump' the ECU is conducting"... more or less. He's seen problems with the 02 being further back away from the exhaust manifold before. His recommendation at this point is to "Get it to Paul down the road asap, the repair smog station.... I can't by law do that stuff here... But he can, and he has Oscilliscope and other equiptment that can just rule out whether the 02 is doing it's job, whether the CAT is doing it's job... Without that tool it's possible you're just going to end up chasing your tail"........ that last 3 words was all I needed to hear in order to agree with his opinion on 'what to do'.

I asked him, "Do you think it's possible, considering the new modulator made it run so crappy at first, that the Modulator was needed but by the time I got here, the computer, due to SOME OTHER issue within the Emissions or otherwise systems, had leaned it back out again?".... He said, "VERY possible.... If something like the 02 not getting hot enough is going on... it's going to read almost everything as rich and then adjust accordingly... But again, I'm just guessing until you get it on a scope."

He was surprised, bcuz even he thought it was running better, smelled less, etc.

Thanks for all the input so far, guys... I appreciate you sticking with me and trying to help by throwing out some ideas. Hey, it hasn't cost me anything up to this point, no throwing parts and such at it, ...so I guess it's all worth it in the 'learning dept.' arena, ......I guess, lol.

I would post up the results but they're almost identical.... Failed BADLY on 25mph and passed "OK" on 15mph. Something about that portion of the tests that my rig doesn't like, I suppose.

xxxtreme22r

Tell them you promise to drive less then 15mph and faster then 25mph and they should pass you right?

And you know I don't know much about this, but is it possible, that the TPS is misadjusted slightly?

And I have seen 02 sensors be bad and not throw codes before.

ToyoTech559

you know what. something else you can do for free if you have. put the stock size tires back on. i know larger heavier tires will put more of a load on the engine making it running harder there for require more to keep going. factory size rubber will take more load off the engine so it can go the same speed using less gas. something to think or look into

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, that's true.... I SHOULD JUST BE ABLE TO DRIVE 14 AND UNDER AND 25 AND OVER! HAHAHA. But yes, the TPS and 02 factors are real. So is the AFM... actually, more people fail smog due to that than most anything but the 02 and EGR system. Not sure if they fail on nox as I am.. But SOMETHING IS WEIRD! It didn't jump down even 1% difference, man... with the timing 3* retarded! And, I"M SURE that when I installed the Modulator, it ran TERRIBLE initially. It's like the ECU is adjusting things right back where IT THINKS it should be, all due to a faulty reading of some sort, ya know? SOMETHING is setting off the Nox/due to my ECU/Sensors/Something, I have a feeling. That's why the LCE 02 location has me really curious. I KNOW people have failed because of 'moving the 02'... Plus, I had a HG fail right after this build, remember? Those things don't help. Anyway... I'm curious if the 02 is just not pulsing right due to not getting hot enough, along with backpressure due to the pipes being 2.25 all the way back. Today, I drove 95MPH! lol. The thing just keeps going like a stuck pig! SMOOTH, TOO! No shakes, nothing(guess I at least did the suspension/axles/brakes etc. right, ....that's something, right? lol.

Yeah, that's true... i was gonna borrow some, but couldn't find any. I shoulda waited, but I'm kinda glad I didn't, cuz this is VERY telling to me....... What its' telling I have no idea just yet, but it's telling, don't ya think? I mean, 98% identical results???? That HAS to be something related to the Computer.. I'm ALMOST convinced! hahaha.

Thanks for chiming in, Toyo, Brandon!