aviator

OH ok I thought it was those side clip s10 rails that were useless...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Man, my pleasure, bud!

I wish it wasn't so "all over" and "talky".... but alas, I didn't plan it out like something I wanted to eventually wind up as a book, ya know? lol.. Just 'life experience'.... But still, it's good to hear when it's helped someone(especially my mistakes or uncontrollable/hard to find gremlin hunting! lol)...

Can't wait to see it! Post a link here, k?

PS> LOTS of good info and 'do's and don't's' on my "troubleshooting thread" in the sig, too... MANY guys stepped in there and lent me tons of help and helped me rule out/solve most of my 'gremlins'! lol


Well, neither are technically 'useless', ya know? The good thing about the S10 ones is that they're thicker aluminum and easy to find bolts/square nuts that will work if I decided to use em... Bad part?>>> They're not long enough, even if I don't cut them, to get all 4 Con-Ferr cross supports to bolt up to them.

The Suburban ones, while not quite as thick, are double rolled(???), where it's like 2 layers of aluminum with support structure to them, ya know what I mean?(i hope? lol)... But, the angle is just like I said>>>> (___] .... Just a LILLLLLLLL scetched on trusting that on an expedition with lots of angles, etc., ya know?

Sorry I haven't got them up yet, guys... I really appreciate your input and support... I PROMISE, once again, I'm GOING to get this

I'll probably end up with those t-tracts in that link I posted....OR, some Expedition ones, if they're anything like the Explorer. I have all the square nuts-serts I need and hand tighten-stuff, like in those pics... I'd trust the con-ferr on those if I can get all 4 on each side of it into a flat t-tract like that.... NO, I'm not saying I'll now go get another rack... lol.. But I might. I got the last one for 15$ on 50% off day.... Why not keep at it til I get something I'm REALLY happy with, right? Plus, I have 2 buddies that will take the S10 ones off my hands if I don't use em... and I'm sure someone would grab the Suburban one if I don't need it(and if I sell it for cost, right? lol)

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Just been catching up on your thread new tools are always nice. Looks like you are having a time with the roof rack. I plan on hitting the boneyards here soon and will look at other models and see what they might have for some ideas.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yep, thanks, man! Well, I've decided, through learned experience on here(mostly the hard way, lol) to not rush this... I want it done, don't get me wrong... BAD, .... but I want it "done once!", lol. I REALLY like the idea of the one in the link I posted, with the t-tracts of aluminum and the Yakima cross bars.... But those cross bars aren't cheap, AT ALL, lol... even used(been surfing CL)... and even when they are, I really like the look/practical factor of the S10 or Suburban style ones. I've REALLY put thinking time into trying to make them work(like RBX is doing and others)... but I want it to be solid due to the size of the Con-Ferr, ya know?

Best wishes, Terry!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Proper pic of the S10 Side Rail Structure........



Proper pic of the Suburban Side Rail Structure........



Now that I really inspected the suburban one with my finger... I think it COULD work, ....just not a lot of 'edge' there, if ya know what I mean?

Whatcha think?

RMP8080

Mark, below is the link to the 89 runner build, thanks...Bill

aviator

Take a look at the full length rails they used on some yrs of the cherokee "classic" [80's version that was sold in the 90's towards the end of the X body I think] I looked at one once and it seemed to be an extruded alum. type. They ran the full length of the roof from front to back... you might have to shorten them a bit to stay on the 'glass roof only but would probably work...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

.... 'doh!' LOL..... Sorry man.... Guess that's how overwhelmed I am at the moment... Just didn't even think of looking there....

I'll be checking it out, ASAP!

I think I posted to ya on those... I found both versions of the "Jeep" rails... The newer ones are like a CRV or otherwise... The cross rails mount in like the S10, to some degree..... side to side support. The 80'S ONE, as you mentioned.... I found those too, ... VERY flimsy/thin and NOT aluminum... At least not the ones I looked at(3 different 80's years) in Pick-Your-Part. The cross bars can be pushed down with VERY lil weight.... I'd say they're 60# capacity... Thing is, those had metal reinforced roofs, so the point was more to hold things down directly on the roof(which I WILL do with the 'SWISS' Cargo Bag I got, on occasions, using the either or/Con-Ferr or Cross bars methods.

Thanks for the nudge again, Paul... Don't give up all hope on me, man.. I swear, I'm just really slammed with things 18 hours a day or so right now. Not whining, just 'is how it is', ya know? Hope you're well!

HAPPY EASTER, EVERYONE!

aviator

I was about to post that i saw some 90s xjs today and they both had the s10 type rails mounted flush to the roof not the ones I was thinking of...
I did'nt realize you needed the cross members too I thought all you wanted was the rails.

All I want is the rails I'm going to use Yakima/Thule towers and bars when I need a rack.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I hear ya....

Well, the construction of the S10 side rails is solid! But, they're not long enough to bolt all 4 of my Con-Ferr cross rails/support rails too... So that's why I was going to go with the Suburban ones... But they just seem a LIL too iffy to me to be comfortable, ya know? I mean, I could use them AND they're spacers/towers, then somehow wrap the con-ferr cross supports around them... but that doesn't seem even as secure as using the channels themselves on the Suburban ones, ya know?

Anyway, I'm probably just going to order the t-track from that company... So it's just a matter of 'making things line up' at that point, ya know?

The ONLY cage/rack that I would REALLY love to MAKE work, ...the FJ ones... I LOVE those, lol. But I'm sure they'd be hundreds, not even worth it to me, lol.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I would think the Suburbans would be stronger as all of the extra bends in the metal would add strength. It will be catching alot of wind up there.

The S-10 looks like porous pot metal aluminum and dont feel it will have near the strength as the other.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I appreciate you adding your thoughts on this, Terry. I wouldn't be taking so long but for two reasons; No time and wanting it to be right the first time..... And I should add that I don't want to add any additional expense of things like 'a new shell' due to something not working out, etc., ya know? lol.

Anyway, thanks..... for your input, man!

I have an update(with more pics hahaha), but might not get it done before taking him to the Heart Surgeon for a check up. Problem/s isn't/aren't with his heart.... it's the rest of him, ... But it's good to check up on that as things CAN go wrong due to inactivity, etc.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Got some Rack rails off a Trooper yesterday... they are aftermarket(not sure the brand) and they're REALLY tough and more importantly, FLAT AND LONG ENOUGH(but not too long), lol.

So, what I'll PROBABLY be doing is this;

1. I will lay down these rails, as the primary/side rails.....

http://www.ttrackusa.com/track_%20systems.htm#1018

2. I will then use these for on top/as my cross bars........







Just showing the rails I just got next to the Con-Ferr to show that I could even use those as the side rails if I wanted to....then get some other flat cross bars for when I'm not running the Con-Ferr.....

I will update soon.

I have a guy with a Road Warrior (with extensions, cross bars, etc.) who really wants to trade me for the Con-Ferr/all it's hardward and some other stuff.... It would definitely be a win-win for both of us, as he has an 82 Landcruiser and wants the 'nostalgia' thing going on and he put all 4 L-brackets and gutter hardware right in his metal gutters.. lol.

If not, no biggie, .... I like this rack, lots. Either way, I'll have some nice FLAT cross bars that can handle any weight now(within reason of course, lol)

RBX

You mean LOAD Warrior?

You could be a hand model!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HAHAHAHAHA.... THAT'S RIGHT, Load Warrior! lol. SEE???? I told you I'd half lost it, already! lol.

Thanks for stopping by, RB! How you been?

I didn't mention this, but the apparatus that I got those rails off of at Pick-Your-Part???? ..... It was welded too the roof. The two screws thing on the ends? .... That was held to the bracket that was welded to the roof then had lock nuts holding it to that bracket. So I was able to remove them, but not the brackets... I'd like to find them for the heck of it, as they were NOT made to be welded.... but rather, they had 2 threaded holes in them, and they were meant to 'slide' up and down another side rail(like the type in the link I posted or another t-track like it/facing vertically like those)... I'ma try to get a picture as I KNOW they must sell them at parts stores or something like that, ya know? Maybe Yakima or another brand like that makes em? It was a newer trooper, like 2003, so unless the guy had them a long time, I should be able to find them. Only want them if they're cheap though, ya know? lol.

Also, those hoop screws are gone... Just gotta remove em... They're something he added by drilling through the bottom.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

These are very similar(the cross bars) and the slides look like they would work fine on the S10 rails... So I'ma let my buddy know who's getting one of the S10 racks I have.....

http://www.prolineracks.com/mont-bla...crossbars.html

I've seen these are parts stores for way less......

http://www.jcwhitney.com/replacement.../p2011573.jcwx

And just a couple more things to think out, regarding ''water tight'' and ''riv-nuts or no? that is the question" hahaha.

csuviper

Question for you Chef. At TDC in compression stroke, is the dimple on the cam sprocket supposed to be slightly to the left of TDC? That is where I am at. Thanks for the help.

RBX

You know... livin the dream!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey man! Great admirer of your work/mods/fabbing/rigs! lol...

YES, the dimple is to be at 11:59/Sprocket Notch at 12.

ALSO;

When you go to get the sprocket on over the CAM, it helps to give a micro turn on the crank/while having someone push in/provide full slack on the chain tensioner--- Then slide the CAM sprocket over the CAM and while the slack is still provided, move the crank back to 6'oclock on the dot/THEN release the tensioner.(It looks as though you've already got it on there. Just make sure it's at 6 on the crank and you appear 'GOOD 2 GO', period!)

THE ONLY thing I don't like in what I'm looking at in the picture?>>>> The Shiny Link is NOT over the sprocket dimple... Rather, you appear to have an inset link over it..... It's pretty much impossible(while the oil pump is on) to see that the Crank mark is over the other bright link AND at 6'oclock on the dot.... So you just make sure it's on 6'oclock on the crank-timing gear sprocket/link and '0' on the Timing Mark Key on the Oil pump.... Then you can 'provide slack in chain before attaching CAM gear w/chain over the cam....then back off to '0'....

Does that make sense???^^^

csuviper

Thanks for the response Chef, I responded on my build. We can keep it there, just knew you knew your s#!t and could be helpful.