ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OK, ..... that is not workin! lol. I loosened them quite a bit, ...and now it's like a BOUNCY RIDE AT THE AMUSEMENT PARK! lol. Gonna have to tighten them till that bounce goes away.

I also didn't factor in the SHOCKS ARE LONGER NOW! EEEEEEEEEEEEK!

I really have to stop doing fairly major adjustments without sleep! :derrrrrr: lol

PS> The shocks didn't bottom out or anything, that I know of... just saying, that might be a consideration, right?

PSS> With the Torsion bars where they were.... stock I guess, .... why would the ride be so much stiffer now? It CAN'T just be due to the OMEmu shocks, right??????? It's not 'constant' bone jarring stuff.... it's just the bumps in parking lots, etc., ... REALLY "FIRM"! LOL. Could it have anything to do with something I did binding up? Maybe something's off up there in my IFS restore? I mean, it really is quiet, no kerplunkity's or anything, ... SILENT really. But GEESH! lol.

xxxtreme22r

IMO and I might be wrong here, but....... Adjusting the height via the torsion bars have no affect on how much the shock travels. As it does not affect the overall distance between the bump stops. It only puts you closer to one and further away from the other, so as long as you had the correct length shock put it when you added the spacers (which changes the aforementioned distance) , you should have nothing to worry about there.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

aHHH, okie dokie Thanks, Brandon!

Far as the BOUNCE FROM HELL! .... any thoughts why it would do that so badly when I relaxed them???

xxxtreme22r

not sure, usually when you have the bouncies it's because you got bad shocks or too light of a valving in them, but yours are new IIRC and are the nitro OME's correct?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YEP, OMEmu's/Nitro for 2" lift.... lol. Honestly, Brandon, it was like a lowrider in a movie, throwin switches, homie! hahahaha. It was literally making me nauseous! I don't think I relaxed them ALL the way, but over an inch in height. I mean,.... what the heck gives? When I had them where they were(I"d NEVER touched them in 10 years til today!!!) ..... I had NO bouncing at all on the road, while cruising. In fact, even on the bumps in the parking lots, etc.(you know, the hard jarring ones) it would hit HARD going up and coming down, but no after-bounce, ya know????

Lil bummed, I thought it would soften it up(which I never tried out on a parking lot bump yet, lol.... can't stand the bouncy).... maybe give me a lil better uptravel before lifting the whole rig up, ya know? If I go tighter again, wouldn't I lose MORE uptravel flex as I go? All I did was replace the LCA Bushings and remove the sway bar, ..... diff drop and bj spacers. WTH? LOL

Dutchbelly

When you relax the torsion bars you take tension off, which means the suspension has less down force, so it takes much less pressure for your suspension to travel up. You've described your new symptoms as a bounce, try to pay attention to what's actually happening. Does the truck actually fluctuate after a bump (ie. suspension travels up, then down, and then up etc. till it finally corrects) Or does it just feel different during a bump because of the decrease in tension on your bars? If it fluctuates, that suggests worn out shocks, which is not the case on your truck. It could just mean you've softened the ride farther than feels comfortable for you. Some people love the old school cadillacs because they feel so soft. Some people hate them because they rock like a boat after a bump. I'm hoping it's just about finding the balance that suits you.

xxxtreme22r

Chef if you go up in ride height you actually loose down travel and gain up as far as length goes, it just make it a little harder to push up on the wheel, if that makes any sense. Take notice on how close you are now to your uptravel (lower) bump stop, my guess is what your feeling is your suspension bouncing off the bump stop.

Dutchbelly

Maybe put a dab of paint or grease on the bump stop and go for a drive to test what extreme is talking about. if you see paint on the control arms after you're done you'll know for sure.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, thanks!

OK:

1. The upper arm has one inch of clearance from the droop-bumpstop.

2. The shocks look to be completely bottomed out.(I'm not saying you're wrong, Brandon, regarding your theory a couple posts ago.... but I seem to remember when I fully compressed them, there was around 2.5" or so of yellow showing on the bottom. Seems like they are right there. Seems like that would make sense to me as those shocks are made to operate with a couple more inches of clearance/travel???)

3. When I stand at the front bumper, rapidly bouncing the front end, when I step back, it keeps bouncing on, several times. ANDDDDD, the droop stop isn't coming any where near the upper arm.(Since the spacers, I increased clearance from the bumps to their stops.
(IOW> I feel that the bouncing has nothing to do with the stops).

** I haven't relaxed the Torsion bars all the way, but at least 12-15 full turns out is where they are. It seems like the entire front end is resting on the shocks, and that the torsion bars are "right at the point" of "pressing against", not "taking out of the picture and not really providing any noticeable resistance"(<<<<make anyyyyy sense?), and thus, like a javelin, they're flopping up and down, which is only made worse by the fact(?) that the shocks are at the bottom of their compression>????????? Could this happen when Torsion bars are 24yrs. old and just, well, SPENT! ?

xxxtreme22r

Chef when you say completely bottomed out do you mean fully extended or compressed? This is why when I did my rear shocks, I actually measured for them, it completely eliminates this scenario of questioning if you got the right shock.

SCToy

You mentioned it earlier, but the BMW had a K&N cold air intake and all it did was make the car louder, let more silicates (dirt) into the engine (confirmed with blackstone oil analysis) and dyno for an extra HP or 2. In my opinion it's not worth it unless you're attached to the noise your engine makes with the kit.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey B, ....

They appear to be compressed, Brandon. I have to find a pic with the dang front end, before I did this. I thought using the Nitro's from OME was fine with the BJ spacers as the source for the lift. I know that OME's lift is done by bigger Torsion bars, right? When I had the truck up(before messing with the t-bars), it did NOT bounce, whatsoever. It was 'firm'. However, this now has me concerned that, while I'm 'stuffing', won't the shocks do this(if it's even an issue) much sooner? I know Roger(4crawler) lists shocks that work for 'this clearance' or 'that clearance'..... I can't remember if these main sold shocks on Rocky Road Outfitters are one that he lists. RRO didn't hesitate to tell me "Yep, them's the ones you need".

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Unfortunately, I have no money/nor parts like spare shocks to try out... otherwise I'd put in some shocks that Roger recommends just to test out whether THEY ARE causing some/most of the bounce. I guess Shocks can't really bounce the ride like that, not brand new ones, right? Even bottomed out/compressed, wouldn't it just "clunk", and in effect, not really be any softer, due to them being 'compressed' and therefore unable to do their job of 'softening the blow' so to speak???

Read my second to last post, on the last page, ^^^ for update/findings.

xxxtreme22r

Chef I am beginning to think your shocks are shot. Shocks don't soften the blow. Many people think that, but it's not the case. Springs are what softens the blow, the shocks job is to decrease the rate at which the spring rebounds/compresses (bounce).

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OK, I hear ya, Brandon, ...but......

Is it possible, that even with up and downtravel of my physically bouncing the front end, my shocks aren't even traveling up when I'm doing so? (IOW, they're fully compressed, let's say for S&G's... ok? >> But when I bounce the front end, it's not actually allowing the shocks to come up enough to EVEN SOFTEN the blow, ...I.e.; There's nothing to soften the blow/bounce because they're already fully compressed and aren't coming up enough by my bouncing to create a resistance.
Far as them being spent, ..... I remember how hard they were to compress/extend, when putting them in. They're brand new( I know, it's still possible)...so wouldn't I feel them compressing and extending a lot easier, by hand, if they were spent? Or are you saying, they're spent, thus, THEY'RE SO STIFF that they can't even 'gradually' do anything?

See, when I'm in a parking lot, even on those harsh bumps I'm talking about(before the torsion bar adjustment>>) I would hit the bump, feel it pretty good, but then when coming down, that's when it's really more noticeably jarring,....yet NO BOUNCE, whatsoever.

Dang, I'm really lost as to why only relaxing the torsion bars could have caused this bouncy behavior..shocks or not. I could do a video of it for you guys, ...but just trust me, when I bounce it a few times, all my weight, it comes right back up and down at least 4-5 times?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> I'm looking for the compressed/extended measurements for my shocks up front. I'm going to go measure them right now, but I was BEGGING, could someone maybe tell me, is that on the Rocky Road site? Since I got the shocks directly from ARB, I thought maybe they sent the wrong ones, not like RRO was going to send... but I remember reading the boxes and that they were the same number. Heck, they're even the NEWEST version, from what I"m seeing on Dutch's thread and others.... I have the black rod/dust covers, not the coily kind. I know that doesn't mean they're ANY different.... I'm just bringing it up due to them, well, ...being newer/new stock???????

PSS> I would even try putting in my old shocks(they're 10 years old, at least, possibly original!) just to try this out. But I'm kinda screwed if I end up having to return these... I don't have the time for my rig to be down again. My original shocks, I would think, would not be most likely destroyed by the differing clearance caused by the spacers, no? Or is that just while wheeling that I'd have to worry? I can push those in pretty easily.... compared to the OME stabilizer and shocks? PFFFFFFT! lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Rocky road's site is saying it's OME60072 for the fronts(which is all I have, the fronts, not rears)..... I will go get the box, etc. But they don't list measurements for the compress/extend arena. Maybe the box will? I'll go see.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, first off, The shocks that ARB sent me are numbered "60027"....Rocky Road Outfitters site lists the shocks for my truck w/2" lift, as "60072".........WTF? Now maybe it's just an upgrade/applicable one that ARB KNOWS will work just fine...... maybe cuz of the new shock dust shields, they're now numbered differently....HECK, maybe Rocky Road just listed the number wrong on their site?!?!?(BUT MAYBE NOT! and if you go to Rocky Road Outfitters.com you will have to put the shock in the shopping cart before you can see the actual product/serial number)>>>> I'm not going to panic, BUT I'M CONCERNED!

Lumpy

The reason you're getting the bounce is that your t-bars (springs) are not stiff enough. I would bet that if you tighten up 8-10 turns you'll notice a hell of a difference. The tension on the bars is not enough, just think how much more bouncy it would be without the shocks...

Started out with new shocks/bushings/and stuff with bj spacers=stiff ride.
Relaxed t-bars now bouncy...This will also lower your ride height as well (compressed shocks)

Quick test: lift up the front end crank the t-bars 5 turns each and go for a ride...I bet your'll notice a difference.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

UPDATE; CAUSE OF PROBLEM LOCATED- Solution set in motion!

1. ARB FUDGED IT! lol. They sent me a set of REAR shocks for a 96-2001(whatever, something like that, lol) 4Runner.........Once again, ......>>> FUDGE! lol.

2. Apparently, someone at ARB got dyslexic, then shipped solely by number, without looking it up(most likely, a decent LIL reaming will now take place in the WA offices of ARB-USA, lol). I mean, sending rear shocks, 10-16 years off in application, bcuz you didn't look it up? AFTER I'D GIVEN YOU THE PART NUMBER FROM ROCKY ROAD OUTFITTERS? Yeah, priceless! lol. (Secondly, if he'd just looked at the year, he'd KNOW that my rig can't support rod-to-eye type shocks in the rear!!!

3. To remedy this, a very helpful(AS USUAL WITH THEM, ARB ROCKS THE HOUSE!) guy named "Mark" is trying to 'catch the brown truck', today, before 1pm, to ship off my RIGHT shocks, .....which do NOT have black covers, do not have an OD of 2.25" and which are NOT 21.5" EXTENDED, 14.2" COMPRESSED! Looks like DUTCH'S AND OTHERS SHOCKS ARE EXACTLY the ones I'm SUPPOSED TO HAVE!

4. I will be selling these on the cheap to anyone who needs these in their 96-2001 Runner! 100$ for both? Not starting a classified, here, but I'm stuck with them, most likely, as Mark said, "Yeah,.....not really any way I can sell them now that they've been installed. THEY ARE MOST LIKELY FINE! Just remove them, test motion both ways and if there are NO leaks and no catching/clunking/ease of motion.... they're fine! You had SOME effect from them, while driving, with T-bars adjusted stiffer where they were.... but that's why on the traffic bumps in lots, etc., you felt your insides falling out the bottom.....of your seat(so to speak) lol" These shocks are actually more than the ones I needed up front. So again, should I just try to find a guy on here? Or should I make them work in back????? Or maybe someone would want to trade? lol.

Oh well, I'm putting the orig. shocks back in, unfortunately, ....until my others come, because I would like someone to have these, and I don't want to damage them. THANK GOODNESS I didn't do any wheeling, as Mark explained that they would have really limited my 'flex', etc. they're almost like part of the lift, at this point,....due to the things being on bottom/compressed with the t-bars relaxed! lol

ADDITIONAL NOTE TO ALL WHO MAY, WELL, GIVE A CRAP>>>

60072 is the proper number for those with 1st and maybe even second gen runners up front with 2" lift.

60027....is not! lol.

Double check with people who are shipping things, just to be SURE that you're gonna not be 'down' any time w/out your rig! NO WONDER the bumps in the road, when harsh, felt so much more harsh! lol.