ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Jason, Cougar, .....

I'll be careful, Jason, ...its' HAIRY, as you saw. lol. "Hairy=Trans" !!!! lol.

Gotcha, Cougar, thanks!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HOLY CRAPOLI, ... I think my thread was like 30th down on my scribed list! lol. Well, at least I'm helping as much as I can, right? lol.

UPDATE:

1. 2400 Miles into this motor and it's TOIGHT LIKE A TOIGER!

2. 1000 Miles OR SO into the "Self Tapping/Two Piece Napa Oil Drain Plug Repair Kit" and NOT A DROP SINCE!

3. Apparently, my rear main seal, during the drive home in 110*F heat from AZ back to CALIF. has sealed itself up to the Crank(Unless of course it was the Trans Input Shaft Seal, which I doubt, ...Either way, not a drop)

4. Both Checks of Valve Lash and Head Bolt Torque Value has shown NOT A SMIDGEN of movement. The Head seems to be working great with it's new goodies and the Fel-Pro Permatorque HG has apparently done it's job so far(I've been told 500-1000 miles and it will reveal if there's a problem with either the HG or the Surfaces).

5. The AC is still blowing ICE COLD(My other R12 Oil Charge Can/4oz- 2oz R12 and 2loz. Oil has arrived as I said, and I will be heading in there tomorrow to install it myself )

6. Transfer Case has not leaked a drop since I replaced the Rear Pinion Seal(Will be doing the entire thing, have all the gaskets, seals and dust seal for every portion which I will do when the trans comes out)

7. I've figured out how to shift at most speeds into 4th, (DOUBLE CLUTCHING HELPS, thanks, Jason!!!), except for 35MPH, ...doesn't seem to need any real coaxing at that speed...but that's ruff on an incline) Can't wait to do the trans, but just have to wait till I have the money, maybe next week, before my next trip to AZ, TOO! WOOT! lol

8. It still ticks a bit, but I'm fine with that!!!!!! I KNOW, EH? Crazy to hear that from me! lol. Honestly, I'm pretty sure it's EITHER;
.....a. The Header Click Theory of Ted of engnbldr(very likely)
.....b. The Rocker assembly just has some MICRO-issue that I could not discover, even with taking it apart. Should've had Putney's check/fix it if it needed it, ...but I didn't, so BLECH! hahaha.

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Far as the A/C;

When I come to a light, I realized something, while in typical 8 minute stand stills in L.A.....

The A/C idle up DOES WORK, when I first turn it on, for a few seconds. THENNNNNN, it goes off for about 20 seconds, then back on for 10 seconds, then back off, etc, just like described above. Whateverrrr is wrong is intermittent... and I WILL adjust the white idle up adjustment screw on the plenum, ...but it seems FAR more 'sensor/valve' related to me, like the VSV or component on the Compressor itself. The thing is.... even when it goes off at idle, it DOES NOT STOP the clutch, nor obviously the cold air from coming. It's solely effecting idle up for now, AND HOPEFULLY THAT'S ALL IT WILL BE UNTIL I FIND IT AND AFTER! lol.

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Far as the electronic hook ups for the 12V water proof plug in that I want to mount in the rear under the bumper; STILL PLAN TO, SOON!

Far as the Inverter..... Sorry guys, I think for now, I'd like to keep it "PORTABLE", as I can't afford a second one and I often need to move it somewhere which would diminish it's output(via too long a chord...just what I've been told by my electronics buddies). I WILL come up with an idea, most likely, for now, that will allow me to mount it in the rear by the eyelets(on the outside of the panel, probably where the 5x7" speaker holes are from the orig. set up), something I can remove and install easily(any ideas?), and that way I can run it right off the battery, then move it to that other location. Since it has the clips, I will probably be installing something intermittent that will allow me to use alligator clips OR a 12v lighter hook up, ya feel me? (ideas? lol) Was thinking of Butt Connectors, good ones, but then I thought, "nah, too likely to wear out".... so I thought, "a PLUG" type, almost like a power socket, ...can't remember the name, but one of you will humble me, lol.

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THANKS, GUYS, .... not posting just to post, just thought I'd update everyone and get some input on the 12V STUFFS!

Z's Confederate Toy

This is good news to hear Chef! Im glad everything has finally worked out. I too want to mount an inverter in my truck just havnt figured out how to getter done yet.

jason in tn

mark Im gonna start by saying I KNOW BUPKIS about the a/c on these. just wondering, does the Idle up work on these as long as the a/c button is pushed or only when the compresor clutch ingages, I ask becouse thats how my ford deisel is and with your seeming intermitant that would make sence. try watching the clutch and see if when it kicks in if the idle goes up, just an idea. glad to hear everything else is staying as it should no leaks and all awsome.


if you want an inverter dude I wish we would have discused when I was out there, If you think a 400 watt would do ya I have one in the truck and 2 or 3 at home all of them work Ive just got stuck buying 2 of them and 1 I picked up for cheap let me know man if it will work I try and get one to ya.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

yay mark!!! so glad to hear you have a break in your engine troubles (hopefully for good!). now that you have time to do actual mods, i can't wait to see what's in store.

glad to hear everything is going well

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks! Yeah, far as install, ..... RBX has a great one I believe, and I'm not sure Ian did one, but I THINK he worked it out with RBX. I'll be turning to them when it's time! FO SHO! lol.

Dude, on the inverter, ...I'M ON THAT LIKE A WET BLANKET! Let me know whatcha want for one, k? Far as the A/C,.... I was under the impression that as long as the AC is "ON" with the blue button pressed... the Clutch is engaged. NO? Maybe I misworded it, not sure. When I push the blue button in, that's when the IDLE should rise..... It does, like I said, for around 10 seconds, then off for 20, then on for 10, etc. When it "idles up", it really just comes back to "750rpm, regular idle".... Is this cuz I'm wrong on the Clutch thingy and it's only engaging intermittently, by design? lol. Like a fridge, isn't always running the compressor? I'm confuseded lol.

Thanks, Ian, .... it was VERY flusterville'ness at times, lol.... But in the long run, granting things hold up, I'm very happy I stuck it out! I will be hitting you up on the power bar thing that you did... I'll read up, but some of your lingo is learned stuff that I haven't, well, LEARNEDEDED yet! lol. Still might have to ask you to come by and throw me a "NO, silly, that goes THERE, not HERE!" Type comments, k? hahaha. Far as the mods, I got quite a few done in the meantime, while waiting or diagnosing or chasing of my own tail! lol. But yes, I would like to do a few more things to make it as ergonomic/practical/handy/comfortable and CAPABLE as possible, especially on my 'TRIPS'. That will mean a new deck, and I've been looking out for someone maybe wanting to trade a good one for something I might have, ....so far, no good, lol.

jason in tn

mark a a/c compresor cycles/is not engaged constantly. if it cycles in/out in/out that is a good sign of low refrigerant it should engage for probably 30 ceconds or so then out about the same. make sense?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ahh, ok. I will watch it and see what it does, that vermin! lol. Gotcha, ....well, that could be sad news as it might mean it's already leaking, eh? GRRR, ...I know, not sure yet, ....have to inspect further. Maybe it just never got filled up enough? It seems to run really quiet with no grinding, etc. it drips on the ground a lot, like most of them do, ...it ran cold for over 1200 miles of full blast cold setting or at least second setting on the fan....

All that aside, it's obviously NOT idling up when the thing goes into that cycle you're talking about. Might see what Jap Truck Dismant. says on if they have one. Hope I don't have to buy one. It would most likely be the thingy on the valve cover, right guys? I have to read back, sorry, been so overwhelmed with 2 jobs right now so I can get my trans... and deal with debt.... and yadda yadda! lol. But, like said, I have to read back cuz I know there's a good test someone posted for me on that. Sorry, just slipped my mind who and what it was, lol.

92 TOY

Hey man....just doing some catchin up taking a break.

glad everything is holding up well. you deserve it, that's for dang sure.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks a LOT, Jerry, ...means a lot from your persevering self! lol.

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Far as the AC.... Seems like, when I FIRST start it, cold, then switch on the air, the clutch stays engaged quite a bit longer. Then, after warming up a lil more, it seems to do what I described.... "Runs the clutch for 20 seconds, then it goes off for 10". Seems to be just as cold as the first day, but now I'm wondering what's wrong by what you said, Jason.

Far as the idle up portion..... pretty sure it's toast. Still have to try to test it and reverse the hoses(listening for the HISSSSSSSSSS it makes when they're backward), ...but I think it's just not working, period. Gonna look up that test, whoever wrote that, I promise! lol.

Far as the compressor making no noise....well, that was wrong too. It's not HOWLING or anything, so I can't know if it's normal. It makes kind of a whuuurrring noise, like bearings going to work, but only after a few minutes of being on. Hmmmmmm, DANGIT! lol. Wish I knew for sure what "normal cycles on and off" were on this thing, for certain. Maybe I can find it in the FSM, the Haynes is a JOKE on that, lol.

jason in tn

mark it sounds like its doing just what its suposed to do, it will run a little longer at first and the cycle, doesnt sound like its a rapid cycle so I would say its good buddy, compressor will make a little noise becouse it is compressing the gas ya know I think other than the idle up vsv your in good shape. as long as its blowing cold its working lol. I didnt mean to give you the impretion somthing was wrong man just that it should cycle just like you explain. my ? is does the idle up work while the clutch is spinning?
normal cycle is a broad ? as well bud it will/should change with ambiant temp, humidity, altitude etc. it will build presure till the HPS[high presure switch] tells it to stop. a rapid cycle like 3 seconds in 3 out would be an indacater of problems most likely low refg. seriusly mark sounds like its working fine.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

FHEWWWWWWW! lol. Ok, and NO WAY, thanks, man, ANYTHING that makes me learn more, one, and be SURE things are ok, two, is welcome! I looked all over and can't find any leaking signs.......... it's got decent amount of oil in it now, so IT MIIIIIIIIGHT show some leaking, hahaha. Anyway, yeah, the VSV must be toast.... I thought it was ALWAYS on, which is why I thought the VSV was working SOME times.... But in reality, when I stood over it, it's idling DOWN and staying down whenever the compressor clutch kicks on! lol.

Actually, it stays on more than it doesn't, ...even when fully warm. It's been really hot lately( I mean, isn't that when most people use it anyway? hahaha)...but I'm not sure how much that should matter, to be honest. It's staying on 20 seconds, then off 10, back and forth, when, fully warmed up on these hot days.

Thanks for checking back in, buddy, hope you're doing well!

baddest94

Hey chef on your power inverter if its one of the ones that plug into the cig lighter why not just wire you another cig lighter up in the back of the runner. And for easy installation/removal just get some of those velcrow (sorry if the spelling is wrong) strips that way it sticks were you want it to stick but you aint got any screws or bolts to remove when you put it in/out

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Baddest.... that's a great idea, and I have POUNDS of Industrial Purpose/Strength Velcro by the Trash Bag!(buddy gave it to me from his work... the stuff is HARD to separate! lol)

Only problem with THIS, particular Inverter.. it's the Alligator Clip Type. Many of the ones I see that are higher wattage don't have the plug, not sure why? That's what I was talking about, ...... I would need a male side raw wire hook up to hook to where those clips are now, or something like that, ya know? Solder it up and heat shrink, .... then I could run my waterproof female one to the back, the other non-waterproof nice one I have to somewhere in the rear, like on the back of the console near the ashtray that's on there.... etc., ya know? Then I could just plug it in in any of the lighters and be golden.

PS> Someone told me that, regardless of getting 12.35 Volt readings from the lighter plug hole, they DO NOT put out 12V actually, .... Toyota Lighter plugs put out 11.5V or something like that? The guy was an electrician, and he showed me how it worked that way ONLY when I plug something in that draws power. Back then, in 87, I don't think Inverters were on the list of Toyota's "things to enable", ...so they were worried about something else, or the lighter was only set to pull 12V ??? Seems illogical to me, to be honest. Not sure how he did that, I was on a camping trip and he plugged in his lil adapter and a CD/MP3 player thingy.... and it would ONLY work when the truck was running. With the key on, engine off, it would NOT WORK! Well, the weird thing is, ....the Plug in inverter I have now(150W cupholder style?) works very well to charge my phone, run my laptop..... ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING will the inverter charges stuff's/Works stuff's! GRRR! When it's not, it wont! I need to plug it with my female 12V car plug thingy that has alligator clips on one side and see if it will charge my phone, just to rule that out! lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Here's the few thingy's, not all of them, but some of the ones I have. The two prong plug into one is for headphones to my laptop/etc. The one with the alligator clips and female 12V thingy obviously wont work for the inverter, I would need a male end with clips or raw wire. But, I wanna know if that's a crappy way to do it. I guess I could use the extension chord one with male one end and female seal-able one on the other?(that's got an LED built in too, ...I know, big deal, lol).>>>>>>>>>



Then, just some stuffs for doing it all,... have tons in that box under what you see>>>

"OOTA"

Hey chef, the best way to test a cat is why its running, now i know that s kinda hard for you right now, but you check the temp at the front of the cat while its running. then check the other end, if there is not a temp change of 100. Then its no good.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Just catching up on our thread. Glad to hear you got your leaks stopped and got your AC working with the R-12. I remember when that stuff was cheap. Guess it is still the coldest refrigrant you can get. The idiling issue could be a little difficult to figure out.

I envy you having AC. Sure will be glad to get it working.

I will be adding some 12 volt adapters, wasnt near the amount of gadgets that needed power when these were built. List just keeps growing everyday.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanx, Oota, ....you were probably reading from the permalink, ....we're around 100 pages later now, but I'm not razzing ya, I honestly appreciate you stopping in and lending your two cents!

Terry, good to hear from ya, as always!

Well, ......I realized that most of the Inverters I could trade in mine for at the same store all have the screw/contacts(like with old school speakers... not sure on the name, sorry). I just need to find a "Male 12V lighter plug with open wire on the other side(or rape one from something else), then solder it up to the inverter. I'm starting to think that the extension type one that you see in the pic above might be the way to go. This way, I can plug it in and have 8" to play with on "power source TO inverter".... Any thoughts on that for now?

I plan on running the aux. 12v waterproof and other non-waterproof female 12v Car adapters to the rear under the bumper and back seat by the lighter on the back of the console. I think this is the best 'spacing' plan. I'd like to run them both off a bus bar like Ian did, maybe something a lot simpler.... but I'll have to shop around before doing so.

The reason I want to maybe use a fresh new male 12v source to wires that I'll solder to the inverters connectors is, ............ I can't be sure which wire is which on this coiled up type that I mentioned from the pic above. Besides, ....that one would come in handy on it's own, I am sure, and I don't have money to just keep buying new things in the same note...so we'll see. I already have a set of nice size wires coming from the fusible link area in loom running all the way to the bumper, .... it was for the trailer hook up, which I wont be using for quite some time if at all, let alone in the near future, so that's gonna be easy(once I figure out the originating slot for 12V.... Fusible link where it's at already or 'bus bar' type thingymadoer! lol) The one in the console will take more thinking, but nothing intense, lol. Lil harder for me than for some of these guys, ....but I'll get it all soldered and shrink wrapped up and fused and so forth!

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Just on a side not.... something weird.

** When I used to come to a stop with the signal on, lights on, etc., ....member I had that voltage needle bounce, dropping idle.... It doesn't seem to be doing it anymore.... Just not sure why that would have gone away. (NOT COMPLAINING, just curious what happened? Or will it return? lol)

baddest94

Hey chef for the cig lighter only working while its running just run the power wire to the radio fuse in the fuse box or something that cums on when you just turn the key on. Then you can do one near the back so that you wont have to start the truck for it to work. And the female end where the aligator clips are should work fine i would think. And if you had a cig lighter for that at the rear woulkd you really need one of the weather proof ones on the outside of the runner just wondering

jason in tn

Don't have anything to add just wanted to say hey(I know its for horses) I'll get your postal and Just send you an inverter man. Hope all is well, we're headed west but gonna be way north of ya.