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ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread

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Old 07-02-2011, 09:36 PM
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Hey guys, .... Ok, so I couldn't let a FRESH DAY go by without fixing something, hahaha... Plus, I'm behind on Pics, right? OK, anyway...........

Walked out from the parking lot the other day/week..... some idiot-head had somehow BARELY, thank God, clipped my Fender Trim on driver-side/back.... tore it right off the screw. So, I got some lil washers I had, new screw for one and same for the other, used a lil securing clip on the lower one, and voila, it's fixed! lol.......





Then, ....I just thought this looked kinda neat.... so why not, right? lol......



OK< and, ....I need to tilt my hitch upward, ...... I have a couple ideas, ..but would rather hear your'alls without my input, first. I'm not sure what's secure/safe or not with hitches.... But the bottom line is, ...My hitch was hit before I owned it(remember the nasty bumper? lol)....and it was bent downward a lil... So, when I carry my hitch carrier, it DOES NOT ride at an acceptable angle! grrr! lol. Here's a pic of the 3 bolts on the sub-frame of the hitch...... any ideas? >>>>>>>



"YOU ROCK, YOTATECHOPOLIS!!!! WOOOOOOOOO!" HAHHAA.....

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-02-2011 at 09:38 PM.
Old 07-02-2011, 09:56 PM
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BY THE WAY, ....

Just wanted to share that JasonTN hit through LAX today, ...so I picked him up and had lunch and stop by my pad..... It was an absolute pleasure to have you over, Jason, ....you're a class A Dude! Loved shootin the Peaco......I mean, eh chemmmmmmm, the crap about WHATEVER, man... don't get to do that enough lately! Too bad you're ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE COUNTRY! lol. Ahhh, s'all good, we'll hang out again, ...maybe hit some wheeling or even Q by the rig with the Regi! Very cool people, man, and it's an honor to have you as a friend!

DRIVE SAFE! Ya hear? lol.
Old 07-02-2011, 11:44 PM
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pretty much every toyota that comes in complaining about brake noise. 1st think i check if the pads are OEM. if not, i recommend new brake pads and turn the rotors because most just slap pads on and go. which is find for the most part but i have yet to find a rotor that didnt have a little wrapage when i cut them. whenever i do a brake job, i use this anti squeak fluid that i pour onto the pads and let it sit till dry. it just soaks into the pads. a co worker told me its just liquid graphite. not sure if they sell a similar product at auto stores but even than, they are still non oem pads. i have done a few honda brake jobs, mine and a few of my friends all with aftermarket pads, no anti squeak on pads, and havent had any issues with noise.

one think i forgot to mention, if you have those early warning metal taps next to the pads, make sure they didnt get bent in closer to the rotor. that can cause a noise. also not having any backing plates on the pads can cause noise but i dont remember if it will squeak or chatter or it was something else.

Last edited by ToyoTech559; 07-03-2011 at 09:02 AM.
Old 07-03-2011, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
BY THE WAY, ....

Just wanted to share that JasonTN hit through LAX today, ...so I picked him up and had lunch and stop by my pad..... It was an absolute pleasure to have you over, Jason, ....you're a class A Dude! Loved shootin the Peaco......I mean, eh chemmmmmmm, the crap about WHATEVER, man... don't get to do that enough lately! Too bad you're ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE COUNTRY! lol. Ahhh, s'all good, we'll hang out again, ...maybe hit some wheeling or even Q by the rig with the Regi! Very cool people, man, and it's an honor to have you as a friend!

DRIVE SAFE! Ya hear? lol.



Had a great time as well mark looking forward to doing it again you are an awesome host.
On your hitch the pic you posted is where the hitch bolts to the mounting bracket correct? If so those aren't slotted holes and I doubt that's where the problem is, look were it actually mounts to the frame a see if you can adjust it there, Im guessing you can just make sure you really tighten it back down. Good luck man.
Old 07-03-2011, 06:28 AM
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I have been off here a few days and you get quite a bit done. Great job. You move fast.

No ideas on the hitch. I am not understanding the picture. If you arent carrying a whole lot of weight, I would just try bending it to shape. If hauling alot of weight or pulling a lot, I would just replace it.

Sorry to hear about you getting clipped. Take something you dont mind getting hit and they avoid you like the plague. Sure miss my rusted, dented , bombed out 74 Chevy truck.
Old 07-03-2011, 06:31 AM
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chef, every thing going well I keep watching your build , you are doing great keep it up . I have been busy with a motorcycle shop I started. still buying and selling toyota trucks and 4 runners best of luck with your runner bearings can cause seals to leak just a thought
Old 07-03-2011, 07:30 AM
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As far as the hitch, see if you can find where it's actually been bent from the po, and put some heat to it while you try to straighten it. I wouldn't mess with the bolts in your pic because its probably not where the problem actually is. Odds are if you can find the right spot to put heat to, you could just put a 2X2 square tube in your receiver and put pressure upwards on it to level out the hitch assembly. Leave it the way you want it while the steel cools and It should stay very close to level after you take the jack out. Be liberal with the heat, to ensure it bends only where you want it to, and not some other place you don't want to move. I haven't been able to check in as often as Id like, hope that helps.
Old 07-03-2011, 11:45 AM
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Man, thanks guys, GREAT INFO!

I'm about to start up some "Electrical Projects", so stay tuned, (kinda copying RBX! lol)....

But for now, I am VERY happy to report that I still, after now, 1500 Miles, NOT A SINGLE DROP LEAKING! ....From ANYWHERE! Neither front nor rear diff's, pinions on the TCase, ....etc. It appears that the actual gaskets ARE leaking on the t-case... through the bolt holes, etc. ...but not enough to get it to the ground after 2 days, ...so i think it's something I can live with FOR A SHORT TIME, till I can afford to rebuild/have rebuilt/my trans.

Jason was with me in the rig, ....(what'dya think, man? Pretty solid?....Yeah, with lots of grumpy old man creeks and rattles and moaning, ...which I'm SURE is more dramatic to me, hahaha.)Anyway, he felt the 4th gear thing first hand. Strange thing I noticed(maybe not strange, someone could explain if I'm right, lol>>>) When driving 35 or under, it goes in without much of a 'click' at all...... even at 40, GRRRRRRRRRRRNNNNNNNNNNNNT! LOL. Is it that at that speed, the rear shaft, through the T-case, then through the t-case inupt shaft that goes into the trans, ...is that all happy at 35 or under, in combination with the flywheel/clutch depressed, ....then it kinda finds it's way in????? OR am I nuts? lol. Ok, don't answer the last one...just 'am I right?' lol.

Far as the hitch, I get all the points.... I'll take a closer look. The section of sub-frame/bracket, that the outer portion of the hitch bolts to(in the pic).... and then bolts to the frame, ....it's fairly thin. Well, not thin, but compared to some parts. I think when he got rear ended, ...it hit the bumper and the hitch, simultaneously, ...and pulled down/pushed in the hitch. That means that that longer portion of metal that bolts to the frame/that the hitch bolts to, is TEENY bit bent downward. (I know what a TEENY bend can reflect on the other end! My bumper was a perfect example... couple washers and lock washers and it was level.

Thanks!
Old 07-03-2011, 12:04 PM
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COUPLE QUESTIONS;

1. A/C ;

...a. It runs pretty cold, quiet, doesn't drag much on the motor, ...and I can feel it kicking on when I push the blue button....
...b. NO issues with the blue light going on, A/C kicking off on it's own, etc.
...c. When at a stop, at idle, ....I turn on the A/C and the idle DOES NOT go up.
...d. Replaced the VSV for that a while ago when I broke a tooth off(Seems to be working, maybe I have to reverse the hoses, etc., just to try?)
...e. On the 1-4 fan controls, ..... the first level of fan DOES NOT let out any air, I'm pretty sure, ...and even if it does, it DOES NOT let cold air blow through there on low. Kinda sucks to have to have it on 2-4 only, ya know?
...f. I HAVE, on occasion, messed with the white screw portion of the idle up system that goes in the plenum/power steering, etc.(the power steering seems not to drag down the idle, btw), ...but didn't mess with it MUCH, and I NEED TO KNOW............

DOES THAT CONTROL HOW MUCH VACUUM IS ALLOWED IN/HOW MUCH THE IDLE GOES UP WHEN THE AC IS TURNED ON?

OR< SHOULD THE COMPUTER DO THAT THROUGH THE VSV/TPS WHEN I TURN ON THE AC???????

Just want to go straight to the culprits, ..... avoid DAYS of chasing tail, this time! Any ideas would be GREATLY APPRECIATED, AS ALWAYS! Thanks, guys

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-03-2011 at 12:06 PM.
Old 07-03-2011, 06:25 PM
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The only word I can find to describe your rig mark is TIGHT that engine is amazing even with the 4 gear issues, I only hope mine runs that good. The fan deal can't speak for a yota but I'm sure its similar, there is a resistor block normally near the fan that increases resistance to control fan speed low speed part normally Burns out first becouse it has the most resistance. This is exspseriance on domestics fords mainly.
Old 07-03-2011, 08:59 PM
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P.s. fix that door hinge before it gets worse. Even if you just replace the whole hinge with a used one in better shape, its a lot cheaper than letting it go.
Old 07-03-2011, 09:20 PM
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Thanks, on the Fan, .....still trying to figure out a test for the VSV/Idle up/ ETC. lol...

Thanks again on the door. I also heard from a buddy that, "When you have that rattle in the trunk area with the tailgate hinges.... just get the smallest bicycle tire tubes..... they TOTALLY WORK!" lol. I'ma try it, I have a couple laying around for my older Bianchi.

I need to sell an older bike, too... need to figure out the date it was made, etc. I think it's like 1968, but not sure. It's a Phillips, PRETTY SURE it's a "Made in England" version. Not sure what it's worth, but hate to get rid of it if I can only get a few bucks. It's pretty nostalgic. lol.

I had to trim back 4-55Gallon Cans worth of chipped up branches from some awkward spots on the trees on my property. (Jason saw how much of a Forest it is, lol).... cuz the Fire Dept. gave us a warning, with a time limit. GRRR... I can literally barely move, ...musta really over did it in the 95*F sun.... High Humidity today, too, ...geeesh! lol. Had planned to take my youngest out for her birthday tonight, ...but right when I came in and cleaned up, earlier than I would have, ....the "CALL" came in..."Daddy, I ate bad Indian Food and I think I have food poisoning".... So we cancelled, ...........shouldn't trust most of these buffets of Indian, Etc., ...I TRIED to tell her! lol.

Tomorrow, I'ma look into the A/C issue in the Manual when I have time(FSM) and also plan out a routing for my wiring, etc., to run the Inverter. (I got a 750W inverter and I want to run it to the back panel, around the back seat area, where RBX installed his.)

I also want to run a 12V Car adapter(lighter), water proof version just under the rear bumper.... gotta find a good spot to mount it.

************************************************** **********

Just to clarify, ....

The A/C works, even at an idle, except when the fan is in the lowest position..... when like that, it NEVER works, running down the hwy or not. It just doesn't idle UP when I put on the air at a stop/Idle.
Old 07-04-2011, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
COUPLE QUESTIONS;

1. A/C ;

...a. It runs pretty cold, quiet, doesn't drag much on the motor, ...and I can feel it kicking on when I push the blue button....
...b. NO issues with the blue light going on, A/C kicking off on it's own, etc.
...c. When at a stop, at idle, ....I turn on the A/C and the idle DOES NOT go up.
...d. Replaced the VSV for that a while ago when I broke a tooth off(Seems to be working, maybe I have to reverse the hoses, etc., just to try?)
...e. On the 1-4 fan controls, ..... the first level of fan DOES NOT let out any air, I'm pretty sure, ...and even if it does, it DOES NOT let cold air blow through there on low. Kinda sucks to have to have it on 2-4 only, ya know?
...f. I HAVE, on occasion, messed with the white screw portion of the idle up system that goes in the plenum/power steering, etc.(the power steering seems not to drag down the idle, btw), ...but didn't mess with it MUCH, and I NEED TO KNOW............

DOES THAT CONTROL HOW MUCH VACUUM IS ALLOWED IN/HOW MUCH THE IDLE GOES UP WHEN THE AC IS TURNED ON?

OR< SHOULD THE COMPUTER DO THAT THROUGH THE VSV/TPS WHEN I TURN ON THE AC???????

Just want to go straight to the culprits, ..... avoid DAYS of chasing tail, this time! Any ideas would be GREATLY APPRECIATED, AS ALWAYS! Thanks, guys
where does your truck idle at when warmed up? i worked a truck once that wouldnt blow cold at a stop because the idle was set just a hair to lower. it was enough to cause the computer not to let the ac turn on and kick up the idle. its late and i need to look up more info on how the idle up vsv work before i can give more info
like mention before, you probaly have a messed up resistor which is bolted next to the blower motor.
Old 07-04-2011, 01:42 PM
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Hahaha mark i think you look for things to work on with your runner.

Maybe one day ill have one as clean as yours



Cough cough.....
Old 07-04-2011, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ToyoTech559
where does your truck idle at when warmed up? i worked a truck once that wouldnt blow cold at a stop because the idle was set just a hair to lower. it was enough to cause the computer not to let the ac turn on and kick up the idle. its late and i need to look up more info on how the idle up vsv work before i can give more info
like mention before, you probaly have a messed up resistor which is bolted next to the blower motor.
When warmed up, it idles right on at 750-775rpm. I noticed something today, ...when I first turned it on, it rose up a lil, then within 3-5 seconds(?) it dropped down dramatically to 500rpm. If I sit long enough at the light, it WILL come up, like I said before, ...but just to around 600 or so. Obviously something is INSTANTLY heating up and throwing a switch back off, .....Ok, not obviously, maybe "POSSIBLY?" hahaha.

Originally Posted by Bojangles
Hahaha mark i think you look for things to work on with your runner.

Maybe one day ill have one as clean as yours



Cough cough.....
HAHAHAHA! Well, even when I go nuts for 2 weeks, exploring in the sierras, etc.(been stuck many times, in mud many times, crawling through trails where we have to break out saws and spend 2 hours clearing just to get through, etc.).....but because I only go with stock rims and 31's, ...I never seem to get much slung all over, ya know? lol. When I had 33's? YEAH, BIG MESS! lol.

You just reminded me I need to get my skid plate back on. I've been looking for one that's stronger/within reasonable price range(YEAH, I KNOW, NOT OUT THERE, NEW! lol).... on CL, etc.,..if you see one, could you let me know? BudBuilt, etc? My bumper guard is set up with mounts for a guard that comes all the way to the bumper level and mounts to the brush guard, ...but downey is done, so I'm not sure any others would fit, ya know? GRRR. For now, my stock one will work, just have to paint it... it's straight as an arrow, as I've hammered it out with a body work hammer and painted it 3 times, hahaha. Yeah, when creeping through trails, logs pop out at ya, ya know? DEFINITELY don't wanna find any if I go for a couple days next week...... WITHOUT THE GUARD ON! WWWWWWWWwoooow, that would stink! lol.
Old 07-04-2011, 02:38 PM
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PS> I have to watch how much 'mudd'n' I do, Bo, ......this is my only girl, ya know? If it was a project or 'FUN-ONLY' truck, it would be set up TOTALLY DIFFERENT! lol. In all honesty though....when I get home, I can't WAIT to wash it, .....I think it's a nice lookin truck, lol.
Old 07-04-2011, 05:38 PM
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i just dont know enough about this system.
i found this on alldata about idle up control valve but with no pictures or location i dont know what some of the stuff them mention are. this might still help so ill post it

Operate engine and air conditioner, then connect a tachometer to the engine.
Check cut-in and cut-off engine RPM.
If cut-off RPM is not 600-700 RPM, adjust as follows:

If cut-off RPM is too high, turn adjusting knob on amplifier clockwise.
If cut-off RPM is too low, turn adjusting knob on amplifier counter-clockwise.
Recheck cut-off RPM after each adjustment.

Disconnect thermistor connector from amplifier and connect suitable variable resistor to amplifier.
Operate A/C with controls set for maximum cooling, blower set on high, mode selector in vent position and air intake control set in recirculation position.
Observe resistor setting when magnetic clutch engages and disengages.
If resistance is not within range shown in graphs, Fig. 16, adjust temperature screw on amplifier circuit board as follows:

If resistance is too high, turn screw clockwise.
If resistance is too low, or if evaporator frosting is experienced, turn screw counterclockwise until clutch engages at proper resistance.

Recheck system operation after performing adjustments.
Old 07-04-2011, 10:11 PM
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Hey, thanks alot, Toyo!

I'm not sure....that seems like PART of it, ya know? Something about "Clutch Engagement" seems off to me when comparative to my issues. Make sense? What I mean is, ....... my clutch engages EVERY TIME, the second I hit the blue button...no issues. Even when the idle kicks down after a couple seconds, the clutch is still operating, cold air comin, .... etc.

I don't see any harm with messing with that screw a lil... I'll mark it and count turns, etc., and see if it's limiting the ability of the VSV(in front for AC) in doing it's job, ya know?

Far as the blower motor, not having a first setting on the fan(which I think is happening for cold, heat or just FAN! I'll check that to be sure tomorrow, so I can have a more detailed list of EXACTLY what is going on. )

WOW, that was a REALLLLLLLLLY long day. Normally, I don't talk much about my work... but I gotta say, ..... HOLY HOTTIES BATMAN!! LOL. Of course though...it's the 4th in SoCal by the Beach in the South Bay....., derr. lol. But, also, on top of that, ..... couple almost HUGE fights, due to a parent pouring bear on my bosses grandkid while the beer dousing fathers son held down my bosses grandson(teaching him a lesson).... TOTALLY out of line by an adult, ...and my bosses son and I almost wound up crackin some nuggets! lol. He was up there alone, so I walked up behind him and the beer pouring party ran back into the house, hahaha. Then, the ex of the bosses son came over with her father, "what happened to my grandson???" and the bosses Cop GF almost got her cuff's out when grampa threw a "Hey, .... even if it was him a part of it, I'll take care of that right now"(speaking of my bosses son, the cops BF)....NOT GOOD! lol. It all kinda evaporated, and in the end, a day with....Great band, great food(yes, thank you very much! lol) and great fireworks. Just got back shortly ago.

HOPE YOU ALL HAD A HAPPY FOURTH! (WITH LESS DRAMA THAN MINE! HAHAHA)
Old 07-05-2011, 09:58 AM
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Hi ChefYota I read in one of your posts that you used Hastings quick setting rings and was wondering where you got them I have rock pistons. I don’t or can’t take a chance on the rings not seating. Thanks Tom


This is what I am working on Thanks again
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tank-235904/
Old 07-05-2011, 05:28 PM
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Like Bojangles was saying.. you do have a clean looking 4Runner. I like the red with your factory stripes. If I could order one today it would be red or blue with the stripes you have.

Glad you got the rear seal done. I will eventually get to mine. Always nice to have some one to test the waters.

I seen on here some where about the fan setting and the first position normally goes out. I recall as guy took a flat sheet of copper?? and made a new plate that replaces the original. I will see if I can find it tonite.


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