truckman1966

It didn't. i had it all nicely spaced out. let me know if you have any questions with this

Mojave_Moze

I agree with mf, a quarter turn is a lot of play for a drive shaft. Also, in my experience, a bad U joint will cause the whole truck to vibrate at high speeds. Best way to see if its the U-joints is to get under the truck, grab the driveshaft, and try wiggling it. If all it does is spin, and not rattle, the U-joints are good. If it rattles, then there should be visible U-joint damage. I'll tell you right now for your sake, MAKE SURE the U-joints need replacing before you try. If they DON"T need to be replaced, then leave em be. These are the pressed-in U joints and are a huge PITA. I actually have a rather unique U-joint/rally cross story...but I won't get into that, lol.

Sorry I didn't post a more thurough explanation earlier, it must have had a brain fart. But yeah, U-joint issues are usually very obvious upon visual inspection.

As far as the quarter turn driveshaft play, Mine only rotates maybe an inch or less before stopping. Too much play in the driveline like that might mean that something, somewhere, isn't tight enough. Whether it be diff, case, or tranny. It really sounds like too much play because as far as I know, the driveshaft should be pretty stiff and half little to NO play in it. So I'm about 80% sure that "Clunk" is coming from all that play. Though I can't be totally sure unless I looked at it myself....

yotarob2005

Wow, not sure what to say about the popping in the rear 3rd. I never heard a noise out of it other than the usual ratcheting around corner. For everyones sake, the 4.30 thirds where mine and I put the locker in myself. I have installed several of these auto lockers in the past and while I do not claim to be a pro, I know this one was done right and worked like a charm so to say in my truck. If their is a problem, or if you just don't feel like dealing with it Mark I will take those 3rds back, no questions asked but I honestly think it is worth some investigation since it worked so well for me. The only major difference I know of between my rig and Marks that could cause an issue is that mine is an auto and his is a manual trans. Where an auto keeps a consitant load on the rear end a manual loads and unloads when the clutch is pushed in and released. Upon releasing the clutch pedal between gears there is a bit of a shock sent down the drive line to the rear end. I will also ask some other guys I know and see if they might have any input on what the issue could be. Sorry you are having trouble with the 3rds Mark, I would have never sent them to you had I suspected an issue.

Edit:

You got my cell already but I just pm'd you my work number too just in case, my cell does not get any signal at work. I will be off this evening at 7pm central time. Just call me when ever it works for you and in the mean time I will rack a few brains and see if I can come up with anything.

yotarob2005

Copy and pasted from another forum, This guy knows what he is talking about

"That much slop is exactly how it's supposed to be. It's the locker engaging one way then the other. Auto Lockers ALWAYS drive worse in manual tranny trucks. Tell him to give it gas around the corner or push in the clutch and coast. You can't really do anything in between without being violent."

Mojave_Moze

O.o so the gears and drivetrain are just supposed to deal with being banged around like that? I know its a Toyota, and it can handle it, but wow, lol.

yotarob2005

No, what he is trying to say is that you learn to drive it a little differently to avoid the harshness

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, .....WOWWWWWWW! lol. Ok, ..........lemme first say THANKS!!!!! Appreciate all the input, and when I have a few minutes to sit down during the recent days.....i soak it all up and process as I go, thinking it out, reading up a lil, then processing some more, ..so KEEP IT COMING, I am VERY grateful!

ROB, NO WAY am I suggesting you did something wrong in there, etc. I, too, notice the same ratcheting around corners, etc., ....you know, the normal stuff. The ONLY time it did that "PINGGGGGTTT" was the first day I realllllllllly drove it since it's been down....again! lol. To be honest, I've not enough of a drive-train knowledge base to KNOW that it wasn't a u-joint c-clip or something coming free, etc. I didn't notice any drama going on in the u-joints when I had the shaft down and was manipulating it around, but the extra load of a locker might very well have put some additional pressure on the 'REST OF THIS STUFF', ya know? Yes, the auto-thing might be some of the difference, ... just curious if you noticed any 'clunking'(nothing SCARY/like the 'PINGGGT'/ more so the normal clunk from tired trans/t-case/etc.-stuffs when you shift from backing up in reverse to drive or vice versa???). I think the lil lower gearing and the locker are a great addition that I've been DYING to do to this for a while, and YOUUUUUU DID MEEEEEE a favor, and really, you still are, lol....so I'm not trying to suggest you sold me badly clunkity stuff's or anything like that. ONLY brought it up cuz I'm trying to, you know, 'differentiate and diagnose' by listing the 'only things that are different are....' kinda thing, ya know? As I said, ....since that first day, it's not done that 'PINGGGGGG' thing again. Even the 'clunk' is less(probably cuz I've adjusted my releasing of the clutch and I'm slowing down the 'engaging' of the rear through the shaft, through that slower letting off of the clutch, ya know?).

Just to clarify, AGAIN, lol..... ;

THERE IS NOOOOOO noticeable 'grinding' or 'gear unhappiness' that I can hear from the rear end, while just rolling down the road. IF ANYTHING, ...while I still don't understand it much, .....the 'shim' thing might be an issue, only pertaining to the distance/rotation it takes for the t-case to engage the rear third. Maybe you just didn't notice it because of the difference in the auto-manual?>>> Clearly, I'm guessing, hahaha.

Rob is a SERIOUSLY CLASS-A DUDE AND YOTATECHIE, .... and I'm very grateful for the way he's treated me/gone out of his way to help me out! I just want to, A. Try and figure out what's going on, B. If it's something I should worry about, and C. What to do to remedy things that might be dangerous. (I'll call you asap, Rob, according to your schedule.... Just been REALLLLLLLLY overwhelmed here, between the rig and work, ....and their 'INCREASE', big time, of guests, over the summer! lol. Just wanted to make everything CLEAR, first, ..that you're a good, upright dude!)

I don't have the camera, couple days now, as they're using it all day with their visitors. I have my Canon-DSLR.... which many of you probably know will not help me with the 'video' thing! lol. I should have the camera back by 3pm or so, ...but I don't think that's gonna help much except to show you the amount of play in the relationship of drive-shaft/rear third, and maybe to demonstrate the level of difficulty I'm having with the 4th gear 'THING', lol.

I will be installing the shifter socket/grommet kit from Marlin Crawler asap, and I was wondering;

1. A good buddy of mine, the one who helped me out so much, said, "Mark, trust me, with a locked rear, especially one that is obviously not all new gears, etc..... Use HEAVIER GEAR OIL, and preferably Redline if you can afford it.... 85W-110 or something like that...it will quiet things up a LIL with the ratcheting, etc., but they're ALWAYS louder, different.... basically, you have to RE-LEARN how to drive your truck with that thing in there, ...it's MUCH different. Your buddy Rob had an auto, so it's MUCH different for him, regarding the 'learning' thing, ..... he wasn't dealing with the clutch, etc., so YOU will have to learn on your own on this one, or from others, like me, with the 5spd W56. Be patient, k? I'm sure that thing is SOLID, very rarely seen ANYTHING go really wrong with those.... more than likely, what you're hearing/heard is from the Trans or d-shaft."

2. He also said, "Far as the trans, believe it or not, ..... I think you're changing from 80W-90 Valvoline to 75W-90 Castrol JUST MIGHT have caused you to have a bigger problem with 4th gear. But honestly?>>>> I think it's more to do with you draining the thing, COMPLETELY! Believe it or not, some of the sludge you had in there was probably dampening the 'violence' being caused by what is, most likely, a sincro-thrust washer type thing that's in there. YOU MIGHT try, again, in the trans, going with a 'heavier' oil..... Hate for you to waste money on that, ...but 75W-90 is probably a lil light for a tired trans that's already got issues, especially since you drained it to completely dry of all the 'grit' that was probably helping you, believe it or not... maybe try, again, redline or a heavier weight generic?"

waynesworld

hey mark, sup? i put some redline mt-90 75w90 gl-4 , and new shifter bushing and plastic plug at bottom of shifter in my transmission (the old bushing was wore out and missing most of it). and now it shifts like new again .mine was getting hard 2 go in to 2nd gear but now its fine.

jason in tn

Just checking in mark sounds like your getting some solid advice.

92 TOY

yo.....just got caught up.

i got nuthin......sorry man.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Bushings just came in the mail..... I'ma look into how to install that(I'm sure it's pretty straight forward, but I've heard that the cups are a lil more difficult? lol. Any input would be appreciated.

Oh yeah, I sure have... still wondering if I might EVENTUALLY want to put something in the rear third to take up some of the play, or if it's normal/within the negligible realm. I'ma get some video of the 'amount of play' I have in the shaft/rear, that should help.

Hahahaha.... s'ok, Jerry, you've helped me many times, and hopefully, some time, my nightmarish 'build...then tear down, .....then reassemble, ...then tear down and reassemble, ...then tear OUT and REBUILD' thread might help you in some way some day! lol.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

yeah, for those of us who have as bad of luck as you. great thread title

mark, when this is done, take a well-deserved break. enjoy father's day this weekend (whether it's done or not)

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HEY GUYS, .....(THANKS IAN! lol..... I know, I didn't REALLY laugh until I read it again, minutes later, lol)....

I FINALLY was able to upload the video I have. It's 11 Minutes, ..sorry, I tried to cover a few things. Hope it shows it's running well. There is some 'CLICK-CLICK' in the video, but it's not audible with the ear...not sure what that is, but aside from needing to adjust my valves, ..I can't hear in person what I hear in the video.(go figure, ... The video never wants to work enough to let you hear my bad 'TICK' ....but then when I don't really have it happening AS MUCH, ...it shows up in the video? hahaha )

Anyway, start with the volume low, k? Just not sure how loud it will be for ya, don't wanna tick anyone off, lol.

RBX

removing the cup on the shifter, i just used a set of angled needle nose pliers and pried at it against the body of the shifter mount. Careful not to score the metal where the cup meets. And then i found the cup i pried off two days later, should have thought that part thru a little better. It WILL POP off. Getting the new one on was easier, just a little force from my hands.
My build thread describes how i removed the inner shift lever ball seat.

Mojave_Moze

I agree with Irab, Mark. Take this father's day weekend off and relax a lil! We won't be mad if you don't post the whole weekend,

Lumpy

Well just went through the last few pages...Been a lil busy lately and I have not had the internet time...

Thanks for the shout out man!!! You were pulling out and I heard that dang bird and giggled to me self.

Well I wish I had more help for you but everyone else seemed to chime in and get ya going.

My thoughts though...

Tranny, I think the lil shifter ball thingy will help out as well as a heaver oil. I think you said you went to a lighter oil right? AS far as 4th being stubborn it's probably the forks/syncros on that gear are starting to see the end of days...I'm leaning towards the syncros my self.

The clunk in ping? I think 1/4 turn would be a little much on the DS but as Rob stated and posted in from that other thread it's suppose to have a little slop (if that's what you want to call it). I don't think it is your u-joints. When my rear went the whole truck shook over 35 not a fun ride. When I did the rear I figured I'd do both on the rear DS and it was a PITA. Had to rent a tool my biggest C-Clamp was not strong enough to pop them out.

Maybe run a heavier lube in the 3rd as well. I've been running that Lucas stuff and like it. I have it in all 4 diff's (truck and runner) and have it in my t-case and trans in the truck. I have heard other talk about the locker being noisy at times and different oils make a difference.

That's all I have for now...just glad to see her running again!!! Good luck man!!!

Over

waynesworld

looks awesome Mark,i like the way it sits now . when i go on yotatech your build thread is the first one i go 2, i wonder what chef is gona do next?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks alot, guys! No problem on the shout out, Lumpy! lol..... Really appreciate the thoughts and prop's, Moze, Wayne.... I think I will, by the way, TAKE A WEEKEND OFF! lol. WAIT, ...... I do need to........... JK. lol.

I installed the shifter socket/bushing and cup and it's much tighter...... but alas, the 4th Gear issue is no better/worse. I agree with those who've mentioned "synchro" issues, .... especially since I've had this going on for around 80K miles.(It used to pop out, not give me much trouble popping out)..... {I just want to add that, when you install the dish that sits in the bottom/the one that the socket slides through.... You need to place it, upsidedown, over the two keys that are sticking out, with the indentations in the dish/cup placed over said keys, ....then slowly rotate it while pushing down/in to the final resting place...that is THE ONLY way to get that thing in there! Period! lol. I almost gave up before I realized how it needs to be installed. Even when in, under the keys, it was still far from seated in the bottom. I took a socket and rag and lightly tapped on each side until it was driven in and seated. PS> Use a lil Lithium Grease to help it get in there, then clean the shifter ball and grooves out thoroughly and lightly grease it and the socket as well...just enough to get it started} )

I know, it's only a matter of time before I have yet another several hundred dollar 'bill' to pay for a replacement trans.... but I want to try and get as many miles out of it as possible.

I'm starting to think that that 'PINGGGGGGGGGGKKKKK' I heard a couple times was actually something in the trans blowing up. Problem is, it was in only 1st and Reverse.... which aren't really related, synchro-wise, to 4th gear, per-say.

Anyhow, ...I'm starting to think that I just might be safe to drive it out to AZ for the weekend, ...... but I might be waiting til Saturday as I want to have some time with my daughters, ...... wherever they are, lol.(They're 19 and 21,...... It takes some time to accept that I'm really not SUPPOSED to know where they are all that often, ya know? hahaha)

xxxtreme22r

Sorry Chef can't give any input on the trans etc etc, I did listen to teh vid but like you I aint no trans guy.

But I can give you this:

ToyoTech559

imo, you made it sound worst than it really is. maybe the video didnt pick up as much as you would hear in person. 4th gear issue will most likely be the syncro which you can have a trans shop replace for you and see how much more it would be to get the rest of them. since we already know the 4th gear issue more or less.
the clunk pinging noise, did this all start after installing the autolocker. i really think this is normal, one of the guys i go wheeling with, i can hear all kinds of noise coming from his rear end and to me it sounds extremely bad but since im have never been around one or had one, similar to you. my 1st guess would be something is wrong. next time i go wheeling with him, ill try to listen more to his and see if its similar to yours.
another thing i notice after doing the zuk mod is that during heavy braking the axle will tilt down causing the rear leaf springs to smack each other making odd clacking sounds. i need to go install something in between each leaf spring to help with the noise. if i take off and brake, left off, brake. i can get it to clack every time i brake lol i just stuck my head out the door while driving and can see the leaf springs slapping when braking hard
terminal temp time switch: this is for cold starts, it lets the cold start injector turn on when coolant temp is cold and once warmed up, it will turn off the cold start injector. if everything is working properly, should get better mpg if the cold start injector was never turning off before.

ps, if the 22re is the same as 22r, you need to adjust your valves when the motor is warm/hot