jason in tn

I know your looking for professional opinions and I'm no p

jason in tn

Professional but I agree with Terry start with that bushing and go from there its cheap and you could reuse it in a different trany if it comes to that. The 3rd member noise I'm not sure on you may have to have the r&p reshimmed but I would start at the front and work back checking things just to make sure nothing got missed, that's just how I would handle it

Outsane

GM Synchromesh has worked miracles on 90's era Honda Transmissions..

worth a shot... drain and refill with it and give a week of driving..

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks alot, guys!!!!!!!!! Seriously, I greatly appreciate it! And, Jason, .....you can't say anything USELESS to me, cuz I'm BARELY starting to understand the whole drivetrain thingymadoohickiemajiggerage! lol.

I will order that, unless you think it's possible I could get it at Napa or something? I think Marlin Crawlers stuff is a step up, right? My buddy was having issues shifting, that was the problem, but see, ....he was having issues in every gear. Are you saying(whomever that was, sorry, I'm doing a party for 35 women-Private School Board Members, WAY hustlin, can't look back! LOL)..... Are you saying that that bushing could effect just ONE gear, ...a gear that obviously already has issues?(thanx for clarity on that...I'm just learning, as I said.)

Far as the rear end.... Not sure. My 4:10's never gave any popping or 'PINGGGGGGGGT' noise, ...and I mean SO LOUD IT SCARES ME, and I slowly drive forward from there lol.... But then, I can't be sure it's the rear end, .....rather, it might be the u-joint I suppose... but I'm not sure I really changed the angle much at all in the rear just by doing BJ spacers, did I?

jason in tn

I could see that bushing affecting only one gear but like I said as did others it just one of those eliminate it as a possibility things, as far as were to get it Marlin claims there's to be heavy duty Not sure what's different about it. On the third I would as I'm sure you have talk to rob and see if he had similar issues that would be the best place to start.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, that's true, lol. Thing is, he's a straight up dude, and not only was he helpful to my situation.... but I remember him saying "Worked like a charm".... So I would 'IMAGINE' that the clunking I'm hearing is more to do with the Driveshaft or U-Joint, rather than the actual third.

Alsoooooo, ...if you remember(I know, it's a lot to remember on here, lol).... before I did any of the suspension stuff, I WAS starting to hear a 'clunk' in the rear, ...Just nothing like this where it was literally a KABOOM! lol.(Ok,...but you know what I mean).

I've been driving it around 30 miles, today, for work, .... nothing dramatic happened, and while it's still giving me trouble with 4th, it seems to be 'working' as I learn how to manipulate it into place.(make sense? What I mean is, ...I'm 'adjusting' to the trouble, and it's working better.

I will call Napa, as I also have to order a "self tapping drain plug" for the oil pan(IF THEY HAVE IT, lol....someone told me that's what Jiffy Lube and others use, as they DO, ON OCCASION, have a bolt strip out on them.) I'M FINE WITH THAT, ....as long as it works. They may also have those shifter bushings, and if they're cheap enough, I'd rather not wait, to rule it out, ya know? Marlin is pretty quick, but I'm trying to get to my pop's for Fathers day, ya know? GRRR! lol.

QUESTION:......>>>>>

Don't laugh at me, ...but I'm noticing on Napaonline.com that the u-joints, ...some of them say "each".... where as others(located in a different place on the truck i mean).... just list the price. Are there 2 u-joints in some of these? I know one of them is like a CV thingy, encapsulated....

PS> I looked up just the FRONT driveshaft, for the heck of it, on Napa, ..... 530$!!!!! The rear MUST be more, right?

PSS> I WILL get a trans if I have no other choice, but YES, as mentioned, I DO WANT TO TRY to rule out everything else as 'contributing' to the existing 'issue'. I'm just guessing, ...but I think my tired U-joints are possibly taking a dump.

PSSS> https://napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul...15&Ntk=Keyword

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

DANG IT, ... Napa doesn't carry those bushings for MY TRUCK! Pretty much any other vehicle, but even then, very 'year specific and limited', the guy told me. "Hit the dealer on that one, man, ..sorry to say".

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ordered from Marlin Crawler, .... Bushings(socket) and Seats kit for the shifter. He's trying to get to the FedEx truck to get it out today, as they're in Fresno, CA, and should have it to me tomorrow if they can.

Until then, I will try to find some time to get out and 'RULE OUT' MY DRIVESHAFT/U-JOINTS in relation to my "PINGGGGGGGGGG!" Any tips on that? I remember someone told me on here a few PAGES back lol... but can't remember exactly what that was........

Pretty sure I'm going to just replace them while I'm at this all. I'm going to need a Transmission PRETTY soon, any way I look at it.... but if I can stave off another 600$ in costs, for now, ...HOLY CRAPOLI would I be grateful for that! lol.

jason in tn

Mark nobody here would laugh at you well maybe the holy crapoli thing but come on what do you want us to do with that LOL. Seriously tho I didn't mean I thought anybody did ya wrong on the gears just that he ran them and could maybe give ya an idea is all. Never bought u joints more than one at a time so not sure on that one. To test the see if you can move the drive shaft up and or side to side right at the joint however if they are not in really bad shape you may not notice much. Good luck

jiffylubej42

mark , been on for awhile lurking ...and have a little experience with that poping/ping whatever noise .. come to find out that my springs were peacocking no pun intended the retainer /u bolt thingy (not on the axle but on the springs) was rusted away/ gone .... learned this from my neighbor who was a old drag racer ,eliminating those ''clips'' let the tires plant beter but gave a wicked bad axle wrap and poping/ping noise according to him .... just worth mentioning

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha... well now, is that saying of mine the source of mockery? I did not know that! hahaha. Yeah, .... I ordered the shifter thingy's from Marlin and went to Napa and picked up the U-Joints. That is surely something separate from the 4th gear thing, I know that, ...but I did notice a bit of 'kerplunk'ing before I ever even installed the gears....and I think what might have happened is, well, the locked rear and lil bit lower gear was just enough to push that u-joint lock ring or something over the edge... and while it's driving fairly decent in 1st through 3rd and then 5th, ..... I do notice some play in there(as I did a lil bit of when I pulled the shaft from the pinion union of the rear third. I'm going to test a lil more extensively, but my buddy at Napa told me, "S'ok, just bring em back if you don't find they helped... clean em up, voila, done". So at least I'm prepared on that,eh?

THANK YOU, JIFFYLUBE, for stopping back in and, also, chiming in. Appreciate it, man. Let me guess, you work at or own a Jiffy Lube? BTW, care to chime in as well on the 'Stripped Oil Plug Insert'?

I will find out soon enough on the u-joints.

*********************************************

PS> Guys, I got the replacement Oil Drain plug at Napa. It threads itself in and then the drain plug is actually a separate part of it, bottom end. I hate to waste 5 quarts of oil....but I would hate MUCH MORE HEAVILY, driving across the AZ desert and suddenly watching my oil pressure drop like the sun in my rear view! lol.

ToyoTech559

i think a video would help diag your problem. on the wasted oil, u can always catch it in a clean container and reuse it but seeing as you just rebuilt your engine. early oil changes wont hurt.

seeing as you already had the 4th gear issue before all this. i wanna say it could be the shifter bushing, if not than you will either get the trans rebuit or get a used one.

the clunking noise your getting, did this all start after getting the auto locker? who put the locker in? might wanna look up some youtube videos of auto lockers from other people and see if the sound is similar to yours therefore being normal

92 TOY

alright buddy....just getting started n catching up.....will keep reading but I didn't want to let this opportunity to say you need an award of some sort...that's for dang sure. congrats!!

92 TOY

that, right there ^^^^^^, is perfect.

my meter has expired and I will have to catch up tomorrow.....don't get too far ahead of me here.

good luck to you man...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Toyo, .......

Gotcha on the "early oil changes" and "thinking it MIGHT be the bushings" thoughts... We'll find out, hopefully tomorrow, regarding the bushings. Far as the oil...yeah, was just thinking out loud... it's starting to add up, lol... 3 oil changes in 4 days, hahaha. Now another one?? ... But again, just thinking out loud, ...it's TOTALLY worth it to feel safe about the oil pan bolt, ...and especially considering that the oil pan is, for the FIRST TIME IN THREE INSTALLATIONS, not leaking anywhereeeeeee but the bolt hole. Actually, it's not even leaking there at the moment, lol... But you can understand, I'm sure, and probably all agree, "GET THAT FIXED" is one of the first things on my mind! hehe.

Far as the rear end thing....... or noise coming 'from somewhere in the back'.... I can't know if the couple of really loud PINGGGGGGG'S I heard were actually 'IN' the rear end/third, or from the u-joint/driveshaft, ya know? My buddy has the same locker, or very similar, and has nothing of the sort. And, well, actually, the last 40 miles, .....hasn't done it again(But yes, the "CLUNK" when I don't very smoothly let out the clutch IS, indeed, still there from time to time.) <<< and, well, I DO NOT want to be limping home by the front axle's power when my main driveaxle/shaft falls on the ground, lol. The "CLUNK" might just be in the diff.... as it takes around a quarter turn of the driveshaft before it grabs the gears, .....which I think is the "when I'm taking off, as I let out the clutch, it will 'clunk' right before it goes forward" symptom....but the "PINGGGGGGGGTTT"??? I really hope not. Rob knows LOTS more about how these are constructed and work than I do.... I mean, I get the jest, ..but need more details. I'll hit him up for some input, but I've just been too busy running around to even make a phone call, ya know?).

************************************************** ********************

Jerry, can't wait to hear from ya, man... always a pleasure!

jiffylubej42

as for the plug best u can do w/o major surgery is self drilling plug but this unfortunately is only a (band-aid) and after all your intensive work and detail ..... my $.02 to do the best as u always have and get elbow deep in pull it apart ....<again> really isn't something u'd want to hear but .....
and jiffylube was a nick name from an old friend cause i used to work at them
_____

Dutchbelly

Throwing 2 more cents in: The self drilling plug might be just a band aid, but at this moment in time I'd think you'd be better off throwing that band aid on so you can concentrate on the more pressing matters like diagnosing your tranny/3rd member issues. You can always come back to the oil pan after everything else has been straightened out. If it's not leaking at the moment as you mentioned, buy the plug in case it starts, but focus on the bigger problems until it does. Who knows you might be able to align the plug fix with your next oil change. It's all about priorities, as I'm sure you know better than most of us at this point. One step at a time.

mfwimg82

chef did you check back lash before putting diff in ? a quarter turn sounds like a lot

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hey Chef..I just seen where you mentioned that the clunking started a few weeks ago and I missed that part, I was thinking it started recently when I posted earlier. I seen where you did your 3rd and lift at the same time between your old motor and the one you are currently on now.

As a rule for myself, I tend to do one upgrade at a time. Do one then test it then go on to the next one. For a motor or a body/drive train upgrade. Ive been down that route on a 350 motor. I feel if you get to many at once and something goes wrong, you have so many "what ifs". I tend to learn the hardway,but those are the ones you remember.

On the shifter bushing, mine was really thin and busted into 3 pieces and was making it hard for the shifter to go into gear. Did one and you could tell part of the bushing must have went down in the tranny.

Edited: I was looking at RBX #500 post, He is doing his. I got mine from Toyota and they have all been white for mine. So I cant tell you about the different colors.

Dont know which tranny you have and I dont know the different tranny models. It is really easy to do. Getting the carpet out of the way and getting the clip that holds the transfer stick in is the hardest part.

truckman1966

8.0 in. Ring Gear
Front Axle Ring Gear & Pinion Backlash Method Shim
Adjustment
Note: Side gear backlash. .005-.007 in
Pinion Bearing Preload Method Spacer & Shims
New Bearing 10.4-16.5 in.lb
Used Bearing 5.2-8.7 in.lb
Differential Bearing Preload Method Shim
New Bearing 3.5-5.2 in.lb
Note: Total preload, add this to drive pinion preload.
Used Bearing 3.5-5.2 in.lb
Note: Total preload, add this to drive pinion preload.

7.5 in. Ring Gear 8.0 In. Ring Gear
Rear Axle Ring Gear & Pinion Backlash Method Threaded adj. Threaded adj.
Adjustment
Note: Side gear backlash. .005-.007 in .005-.007 in
Pinion Bearing Preload Method Spacer & Shims Spacer & Shims
New Bearing 10.4-16.5 in.lb 16.5-22.6 in.lb
Used Bearing 5.2-8.7 in.lb 7.8-11.3 in.lb
Differential Bearing Preload Method Threaded adj. Threaded adj.
New Bearing --- ---
Used Bearing --- ---

I hope this works right. it wouldn't give me a screenshot off of alldata.com so i would say, pull your rear again, get a dial indicator and start checking specs.