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ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread

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Old 05-30-2011, 02:44 PM
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Hey guys, .... well, Daughter just picked up her Rodeo an hour ago... Made her wait almost an hour while I explained everything and how dangerous this was and 'LISTEN TO MEEEEE!', etc., lol. Frustrating, ....and, well, I worry! Not to mention about my GRANDSON!!!! So anyway, ..... she's got new pads on the front, but unfortunately, I couldn't do the rotors yet............. some KNOB that worked on it while her Godmother owned it stripped all the retaining screws on the outside of the hub....so I couldn't get past point A, at least for now. Bled them really well and it stops on a dime now! Ok, maybe a quarter, ...but it's better! lol.

The calipers were working fine, and her rears are doing their part now, soooooo.... When she and I can find time in the next month or so, I'll get my buddy to tap out those screws, and I AM DEFINITELY replacing them with allens, ...STUPID design! And, ...WHY IN THE HECK would someone overtorque a lil screw like that?????????

Anywayyyyyyyyy, ...... I can focus on my truck again, ....but I have to also share.......

** When I checked her oil., .....which holds around 6quarts, .............guess how much it took?

OVER 5!!!!!!!!!!!!! So, that's another reason I was REALLY on her today about lots of stuff.

She also had no front turn signal on her side, or marker light... so I was looking,....IT WAS FULL OF WATER, like almost a half cup! So, I drained that, Clear RTV all around every point that could have been taking it in... and sealed it back up with a new bulb, ...it's working again. Long and short? ...After a few more months, at this rate, ...I think I'll be saying, about that truck, ....."THAT DOG NO LONGER HUNTS!" 5 quarts low, man???????????? Really amazing, ...she used to do this stuff with me! I'm really shocked, and I'll just leave it at that! lol.

Hope you all are well, .....and I will just say, really quickly, .........

THANKS, FOR THOSE WHO LAID DOWN THEIR LIFE TO PROTECT OUR FREEDOMS! We really wish the best for those who were left behind with that loss, as well!

Happy Memorial Day to all of you, Yotatech!

Mark
Old 05-30-2011, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Brandon, .... I did see what you said, and I did tell ya, "I have it printed out", etc., in post #2355. "And they are low pro's, indeed"....something to that effect. lol. I actually had the paper printed out. The problem for me was that I had to remove/and replace new, the upper ball joints. But, after doing so, and everything was in... I could not get the CV's to bind up, ...but I didn't lock the hubs in...That's what I was also asking 'if it is necessary'?
.........
I'm going to read his page again, ...but I just don't remember Roger ever saying, "Lock the hubs in and test the cv's...... " so I was askin.
Not sure if anyone's commented on that question yet Chef, I don't see how locked/unlocked hubs make a difference during the test because what you're testing is whether the cv will bind at the more severe angle that your bj spacers allow, and those angles would be the same with hubs locked or unlocked. I know the factory cv's can only handle angles to certain degrees, and I think the safe number is up to and including an extra 1.5 inches past where the factory suspension allows the cv to travel. Your ball joint spacers push your cv angle that 1.5 inches past factory cv angle range, and your low profile droop stops put you over that number. I'm just going by memory here, though, and it could be possible that the safe number is 2", not 1.5". It might be worth shimming the low profile droop stops even if you don't notice a bind, at least until you know for sure what angle the factory cv can travel without issue. Pretty sure some lift kits include porsche cv axles that are capable of handling more extreme knuckle angles without issue, but I'm assuming it would just be cheaper to just do a diff drop to level out cv axle if you really wanted that extra articulation. Sorry I can't quote my sources, I read a lot of random sites, and seldom recall where I read what.
Old 05-30-2011, 06:10 PM
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Thanks, Dutch, ,....

Yeah, I mentioned(but don't worry, I WOULD NEVER expect anyone to read through it all, lol.... It's as much for me, for memory, as it is to have a discussion).... I mentioned that;

1. I DO have a Deluxe Diff & Sway Bar Drop Kit from 4Crawler

2. I had them hanging, spacers installed(1.5"), and the CV's did not bind, full turn, full droop, etc.

3. I am NOT using Low Profile Stops, .... however, a buddy I know in Torrance(couple miles from me) has offered me a whole set of the Red/Energy Suspension Low-Profile Bump Stops if I want them... I hadn't really thought that far ahead, and I can add those any time.

4. My CV's are not by any means new...but basically, they've never been aggressively wheeled since installation. They are also in pristine condition(I know, .... and yes, ..I WANT to keep them that way! lol..) ....Btw,.... They are OEM replacements. And they WERE NOT installed until after my conversion to "Manual Locking Hubs"...(heard that the auto locking ones are ALWAYS a lil bit engaged).
************************************************** ************

All that said, ... I DEFINITELY, like Mike AND yourself and others have mentioned, 'do not want' any CV Binding/Tearing, etc. I will check on that asap, ...Just been really busy with the daughters PUNCHING BAG of a Truck! lol.

I should be getting my motor by the end of the week, latest, ....and I'm promised it will be, as he said, "FAR superior machining than you'd show me with the other." It was a long conversation, and I'll share later,...but he basically told me the 'GAME' going on with the Rings, NPR or otherwise, etc. ,etc. He actually showed me a couple boxes that said "Japan" on the NPR rings, ...and inside, they had been double stamped but still said, "China" on them.... And as I said, there was much more, and I'M GRATEFUL to him for helping me understand some of the different applications, misconceptions(ESPECIALLY on Bearings' Origins of Manufacturing, NO MATTER what brand!), etc.

Anywhoooooooooooooo, .... Once again, I'm WIPED OUT, ....and the Sun contributed to that quite a bit.... Was around 90, maybe high 88-89* for part.... all day. Trust me, NOW I AM REALLY grateful for having that garage! I went in there and worked a lil bit on some stuff and HOLY COW, ...20* cooler in there! I would have rolled mine out and the other in.... but I don't wanna move mine too much til I can double check everything.

Thanks again, guys, HONESTLY, ...>>>>> I'M VERY GRATEFUL for the input, any and all!

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 05-30-2011 at 06:27 PM.
Old 05-30-2011, 06:18 PM
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good deal glad to hear your engine guy is a good one this time chef and helping you get what you need and what not
Old 05-30-2011, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Well, I made a mess. it was SUCH A PITA, Truckman.... never had that much trouble with drums before!(I'm sure you have many times, lol....But that's what you do all the time, haha).......

Anyway, yeah, .... In the process of doing all I had to do to get that drum off... I over extended the outer boot and POOF! So, I cleaned it all up pretty well and slapped it back in, ..but it left some mess on the outer-lip of the cylinder. Yeah, it was dry to the bone when I got in there. But HOW LONG WOULD THAT HAVE LASTED? I guess until it lit on fire and melted everything, right? lol.

Thanks, Truckman... I'm satisfied that I did a good job...but it WAS a bear! The actual work once those were off was about 1 hour, hahaha. Getting there? Let's just say, ... RIDICULOUS, ....Had some lunch, started in, .... Finished, and had a late dinner! lol.

ROTORS TOMORROW! Good LORD, ...drums is spensive! So, I'm really hoping that the Rotors, while they're not NEARLY as pricey, ....hope they're salvageable, ya know? I know, ... and if they're even close, I'll replace em... But when I took a closer look today, they didn't seem to bad... and I think that having NO REAR BRAKES, that might have contributed to the fronts getting a lil hotter than normal.

Just insane how things are built now adays. Some better, I know...but GEESH,.. with this one, and others I've seen.... 2001, .....and it might have locking up Calipers and such, already???????? My calipers started leaking at 240K! lol. This thing has 100K on it, and it drives pretty nice... peppy for a Isuzu, lol. But, it's just clickity clankin a bit in spots... FAR more than mine, which is 24 years old! lol. As they say... "They just don't make em like they used to!" lol.
Glad everything went well (except the hub retaining bolts and yes they are a stupid design on those) and sorry i haven't been lurking on your thread, been doin big things!

and yes, happy memorial day! in rememberance of all our armed forces past and present!
Old 05-30-2011, 08:43 PM
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I gotta tell ya Chef, your truck's suspension/frame is spotless! I spent a good part of the day pressure washing the undercarriage today, two bottles of SimpleGreen, one de-greaser spray can, a plastic putty knife and brush! It was such a joy laying down in all the muck dripping off and IT'S STILL not nearly as clean as yours! I've had it, I'm taking it down to my work and use the two post lift next weekend!!!

Thanks for the inspiration!
Old 05-30-2011, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nvtoyota
good deal glad to hear your engine guy is a good one this time chef and helping you get what you need and what not
FHEWWWWWW, me too! LOL. I'm really anxious! Probably more so about the first start/thousand miles or so, ......and heck, while I'm fully aware that NOTHING is ever 'PERFECT', .... I'm pretty confident that this guy is wanting to give me a good job as an example! I'll be stopping by there tomorrow with the timing cover in case he needs to shave it. Probably wont....but I'll be there with it TO INSPIRE HIM to finish up! LOL.(Oh, and also to bring him the Viton Seals.

Originally Posted by truckman1966
Glad everything went well (except the hub retaining bolts and yes they are a stupid design on those) and sorry i haven't been lurking on your thread, been doin big things!

and yes, happy memorial day! in remembrance of all our armed forces past and present!
YES, you have been busy! lol. Very excited for ya, Truckman,...very cool swap!

Originally Posted by Sin
I gotta tell ya Chef, your truck's suspension/frame is spotless! I spent a good part of the day pressure washing the undercarriage today, two bottles of SimpleGreen, one de-greaser spray can, a plastic putty knife and brush! It was such a joy laying down in all the muck dripping off and IT'S STILL not nearly as clean as yours! I've had it, I'm taking it down to my work and use the two post lift next weekend!!!

Thanks for the inspiration!
Hahaha, ... yeah, it was a BEAR cleaning up much of that...but a hardened plastic scraper does wonders for the 'welded on hardened grime', along with the CRC Engine Cleaner... I know, it's not foaming nor Purple, lol... but it REALLY worked well! I'm going to use Simple Green for the inside of the hood... that's the only thing I've not SPOTLESSEDEDED! LOL. I figured, 'why not' while I wait, right? And yes, I realize I'm REALLY BLESSED to not have 'rust' as a factor in all this.(I mean, sure, I have a lil bit here and there, ...but for the most part, it's pretty much 'good to go'!

LOVE hearing that this thread is an inspiration to ANYONE, ....that's the main reasons I try to keep up the 'detail'... Just hope it helps someone, ya know?

Take care, guys!
Old 05-31-2011, 07:54 AM
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Just leaving myself a couple notes;

To do;

1. Install front and rear main seals(Got new ones that will NOT ride on the same place-I tested)

2. Torque and install Calder Pins on ball joints

3. Install Diff and Sway Drop kit

4. Grease Upper Mega Travel Ball Joints(just hit em to be sure)

5. Bring Injectors by RC Engineering(They said, "you have it apart? Bring em by and we'll test/flush em for ya just for the heck of it, no charge!"

6. Get Timing Cover ready(Front main seal.... Prime the oil pump for the new motor)??

************************************************** *********

Thinks to 'get';

1. Calder pins

2. More bandaids! lol

3. Mechanics Disposable Gloves that FIT! Grrrr(one size fits all my butt, mr. gorilla!)

4. More oil for change after 20 minute break in

5. More Gear Oil for T-case flush

6. More CRC and Foaming Engine Degreaser as well

7. Punch driver(for trying to get out Daughters stupid retaining screws on her hub! GRRRR! )

8. Appt. with Alignment Shop(Any ideas guys?????????? Would like to use the BEST place I can for the money.... Computerized, etc.?? Thanks! )

9. Lay out all the bolts and nuts/Clean some of them

10. Get more Alumicote-Aluminum Color Paint for Engine(same as on my V-covers/Plenum.... I like it, and will be doing THIS BLOCK DIFFERENTLY, .... and NO, I'M NOT SUPERSTITIOUS! HAHAHA)

************************************************** ***********

I will add to this as I go.......... PLEASE, GUYS, if you see anything missing, point it out and I'll either add it or confirm that I have it, ya know? Don't wanna make ONE SINGLE TRIP BACK OUT once i get this freakin thing on the stand!!!!

PS> I was thinking of getting the Red Coolant, .... In fact I will! But, ...curious, that's all,....no one ever answered me, ...'Is the Zerex the same stuff?'.... Couple people I spoke to seemed to think it was the same chemical make up.("It's the same stuff, for Honda/Toyota, man,.... more expensive and everything",) hahahaha.
Old 05-31-2011, 01:30 PM
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if it has green in system keep it green some coolants are not compatible and gel. go old school on this chef
Old 05-31-2011, 02:30 PM
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my understanding about the red coolant is it has additives to protect aluminum radiators and other soft aluminum. I know your not supposed to mix red and green, but I also seem to remember there being a red for older systems to still not supposed to mix it tho.
Old 05-31-2011, 03:04 PM
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I've had universal PEAK coolant in mine since it was rebuilt 10K and 2 years ????? ago with absolutely no issues whatsoever.
Old 05-31-2011, 05:23 PM
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what would you say would be the best engine for a toyota i just bought its a 1990 pickup i plan on doing an sas probaly 6 inch lift and 37s i would mostly use it for snow wheeling and a little rock crawling it had a 22re stock
Old 05-31-2011, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mfwimg82
if it has green in system keep it green some coolants are not compatible and gel. go old school on this chef
Originally Posted by jason in tn
my understanding about the red coolant is it has additives to protect aluminum radiators and other soft aluminum. I know your not supposed to mix red and green, but I also seem to remember there being a red for older systems to still not supposed to mix it tho.
Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
I've had universal PEAK coolant in mine since it was rebuilt 10K and 2 years ????? ago with absolutely no issues whatsoever.

Hey guys, ...thanks for answering. I'm really more 'CURIOUS' than anything else... and, I had 'Green-Whatever' in the motor that I initially rebuilt for 140K, .... eventually it had some issues like the radiator gave up and the water pump... at 250K or so, lol.... I've just been wondering if it really does prolong the life of these aluminum head motors, aluminum water pumps and, well, my radiator is not aluminum, so nevermind that, lol.

Another really long day, ..... my back, too, ... STUPID 4-HERNIATED DISCS! LOL. Oh well, ... at least I'm still upright and able to do stuff, ya know? lol.

I got a few pics, and a couple things to share on the T-cover and rear main housing, etc. ... Stuff regarding the 'MACHINIST of Times Past!' lol. GOOD GRIEF, ...that's all I'll say for now, lol.

Talk to you all soon, and I'll be back with pics when I can, tonight.

(PS> He said, "HOPEFULLY Thursday, ..........maybe Friday"... and MAN I hope so!

Just a quick question.....

** He said "NO PROBLEM for him to install swirl polished stainless oversized valves... wouldn't be much extra work at all... You'll gain a LIL bit, ..... not seat of your pants or anything, ..... but just let me know, .... we can either go stock with the ones you brought from engnbldr or get you some 1MM oversized ones...."

Just curious whatcha'all think. I spoke to someone about it today, ...and it's kind of a "Not a BAD thing, ....not free, either", lol. The ones he gets are Racing Quality or something, and they're the only ones this guy will use... (for oversized)... but they're like 14$ each with tax...... Plus the work to put em in. I'd be into around 270$ for the head, instead of 200$(including the valves I have, compared to the valves I COULD get plus a valve job, and the 'maybe' on the extra head work)... which isn't a big deal, IF IT'S A GOOD IDEA! lol.

Just throwing it out there...he's doing the block, first, probably tomorrow... So if I hit him up tomorrow on that, above, he could still do it, lol.
Old 05-31-2011, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by YOTAxwheeler
what would you say would be the best engine for a toyota i just bought its a 1990 pickup i plan on doing an sas probaly 6 inch lift and 37s i would mostly use it for snow wheeling and a little rock crawling it had a 22re stock
First of all, "Welcome to Yotatech, Yota", lol.....

That's really a loaded question, as there are MANY options, and yet, for crawling, ... I would imagine a 3RZ might be a good option for limited under the hood changes along with PRETTY MAJOR rewiring of the harness, most of the under dash harness, ...etc. I'm not really a pro on 'swaps', ...BUT, if you get to 10 posts, and then go to the home page, you could start a "Build Thread" and I'M SURE you'd get TONS of input, ya know?

Sounds like a pretty MAJOR project, either way, with all the goodies you're planning.... Best wishes on it all,

Mark

PS> Google "Big Mike 3RZ swap" and look it up on the Marlin Crawler site... Even here, he's done a thread with LOTS of links in there, etc.

YOU CAN, btw, build up the 22re to quite the lil powerhouse, .....but it's NOT cheap, and you could probably do the 3RZ swap for about the same investment(Plus a lil more drama with the wiring, etc.).
Old 05-31-2011, 07:10 PM
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there are many good toyota engines, and each person has his/her own preference. I personally prefer the 22re. It might not have much horsepower but with the right gearing you would be surprised what you can do with it. You should probably do some research on your own, and decide which engine best suits your needs. Either way this is chef's build thread, and your questions should be about his build, not yours.

Last edited by Dutchbelly; 05-31-2011 at 07:24 PM.
Old 05-31-2011, 09:16 PM
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WHAT THE FREAKIN HECK IS WRONG WITH PHOTOBUCKET????????/ ahhhhhhhhhhh! lol. This is the second time in two weeks where it's just ALL SCREWY! haha.

They're uploaded, ...but I can't tell which are which, ...it doesn't show half of them. Just a link, grrr!
Old 05-31-2011, 09:34 PM
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Ok, ...ANYWAYYYYYYYY, lol... I'll just wing it...........

First, just a reference pic for ANYONE doing a 22R/RE timing cover/oil pump install, etc. This, below, is the top center oil pump mounting bolt on the timing cover, looking from behind. For one, it gets sealant, FOR SURE! Secondly,... it should look JUST LIKE THIS, not protruding!(Which means, ....DO NOT coat the bolt with so much rtv that it is like a ball on the end of the bolt)......



This is what I saw when I removed the rear main seal from the housing. Yes, it's RTV! IS THAT INSANE??????// or is he right? hahaha. I think he found the seal wasn't seating all the way in(for whatever reason... Wasn't thick enough?????)...so he filled the remaining space before where it was supposed to hit bottom with black rtv. Maybe this is why the inner lip of the seal was COVERED in black goop? Actually filled in in spots! ........



This is my new seal in a cleaned up housing, BOTTOMED OUT, using the seal and bearing install kit I got at O'Reily, also shown below(which also DID NOT have one wide enough...but I improvised and it still worked fine).......






Next, the timing cover all cleaned up as best as I could get it without BANGING MY HEAD ON WALL! lol....(Used a 'Soft' Brass Brush that worked very well, actually...after a bit of finagling! lol... And MAN, that Toyota FIPG does NOT cooperate, guys! lol.)....






Then, finished up cleaning all that Toyota FIPG off the Oil Pan(MUCH EASIER, because on this, of course, I can use a brass wire wheel on my drill!!! ALA Jerry! lol)......



Oh, and the Postman dropped this off the other WEEK, and they just told me! lol. Good thing it wasn't on the road, as I wont be BACK ON the road until June.(Trust me, ...TORRANCE COPS ARE BRUTAL! They don't call Torrance Court the "Hangin Court" for nothing, either! hahaha)...........



Then, really quick... I cleaned up my garage pretty nice! Allllllll the tools back in there places, etc.! ......



************************************************** ************

DAYUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM, I'm getting anxious! lol. BTW, ... anyone have any thoughts on the 1MM oversized Stainless Swirl Polished Valves Option? I know Brandon, you have them in your rig, .... but with a 268... Whatcha think? I mean, I guess it's a way of getting MY head more toward an Engnbldr head, but just with a 261, instead, and for around 250$ Total(minus the CAM I already have,lol)...???????
Old 05-31-2011, 10:21 PM
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8. Appt. with Alignment Shop(Any ideas guys?????????? Would like to use the BEST place I can for the money.... Computerized, etc.?? Thanks! )

Johnson Alignment in Hawthorne....they do it the old school way!

good luck
Old 06-01-2011, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by pholife
8. Appt. with Alignment Shop(Any ideas guys?????????? Would like to use the BEST place I can for the money.... Computerized, etc.?? Thanks! )

Johnson Alignment in Hawthorne....they do it the old school way!

good luck
I go to Firestone and get a lifetime alignment for any vehicle I offroad. They aren't the best, but are the only ones dumb enough to offer something like that. I usually get about 8 alignments a year between mods and just plain knocking it out of alignment.

It's also nice to be able to get a free alignment if something happens out of state
Old 06-01-2011, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by pholife
8. Appt. with Alignment Shop(Any ideas guys?????????? Would like to use the BEST place I can for the money.... Computerized, etc.?? Thanks! )

Johnson Alignment in Hawthorne....they do it the old school way!

good luck
Originally Posted by drew02a
I go to Firestone and get a lifetime alignment for any vehicle I offroad. They aren't the best, but are the only ones dumb enough to offer something like that. I usually get about 8 alignments a year between mods and just plain knocking it out of alignment.

It's also nice to be able to get a free alignment if something happens out of state
Thanks, guys! I am hoping to find a 'computerized' place... and I want lifetime, indeed.

Is Johnson the one with the Bear out front, Pholife?

PS> What did you pay at Firestone, Drew?


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