When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Steven at Gem County Auto & Truck Parts in Emmet, Idaho pulled through for me again! He had a double decker center console armrest-lid and it's related hardware for me! I just need to reupholster and clean it up a bit.
My valve cover say's 22R-E. From what I understand, Toyota didn't make a 22R-TE decal for the valve covers. It would've been nice added touch but yeah... I dunno why they didn't?
New engine looks soooo shiny!!! Heard great things about 22re performance.
Btw what did you do to your thumb, ouch thats a few stitches.
I'm in the North Bay Area, cool to see another local member!
Also smog?
Thanks 84_Yota_Dude. When Jim asked me what color I wanted for the block I chose this silver. Folks typically paint their block black so I decided to part from the traditional pigment, LOL. This will be my first engine from them. So far, I've been very happy with the work.
The 3 lidocaine shots to numb it up before the surgery was THE most painful part of the procedure. 9 stitches total for the 1" incision. I thought I just had a ganglion cyst that was getting caught in my thumb joint which caused my thumb to randomly and painfully lock-up. I'd have to push the BB-size bulge away from my knuckle to unlock my joint. Turned out to be a broken piece of cartilage I was pushing around AND a ganglion cyst. I'm glad it's out, thankfully my thumb doesn't lock up anymore. I just need to keep flexing my thumb to get rid of the slight atrophy from 2 weeks of non-use. The odd thing is I have no clue how I had a broken piece of cartilage in my thumb area? Maybe I should stop ignoring aches and pains? LOL!
I'm currently in the East Bay but I'm planning on moving to TX hopefully very soon. My rig will be smog exempt in TX because of her model year. I'm pretty stoked about that!
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; 01-25-2018 at 05:16 PM.
Thanks bud! Yeah man, absolutely plagiarize the color, LOL! All good with me
Yeah, I'm just following my surgeon's thumb exercise regimen. I've been doing rubber band stuff. It's definitely helped. I don't have putty though. Should I snag Playdough from my neighbor's kid?
You guys make me laugh about the play-dough comment, that's funny. The build is coming along nice. The motor looks great and I'll be following the build. I'm so jealous of all you west coat guys with the rust free trucks and parts. I looked for a rust free one to build for many years and finally had get from out west and get it back hear in New York. I look forward to your progress.
Thanks Dentmstr! The WC rigs aren't always rust-free so I'm thankful mine isn't bad. I'd have to point a finger at the road salt used over there during the winter season for the issues y'all have to deal with. Theres a few rust free rigs out here I'd love to buy for my lady's future build but I don't have space for it right now, LOL!
I try to update my post as regularly as I can. One thing I always try to include is the OEM Toyota P/Ns for y'all to reference just in case you need that specific part in the future. So stay tuned, I'm buying a bunch of stuff in the next couple of days.
I'm planning on running off-road lights, CB and a winch in the future so I want to beef up my alternator. I'll contact LCE tomorrow but I was wondering if y'all know if a 22RE alternator would be different than a 22RT-E alternator? The reason why I'm asking is their ad description only specifies for a 22R/22RE? Besides the higher output, I really like the idea of them using a Toyota OEM alternator housing so it mounts up the same w/o a different bracket. So... what do you guys think?
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; 02-07-2018 at 09:29 PM.
There are different part numbers from Toyota, I think these are just the amp rating.
The typical aftermarket ones specified from the parts store require you to press out the sleeve from the lower alternator bracket, or modify the alt housing (both a pita). Always get a denso!
Thanks for the clarification Co_94_PU. I'll ask LCE in the morning just to make sure it's totally compatible. I'll post their response. Yes, I agree, always get a Denso or Aisin!
Just an FYI: I e-mailed Toyota (toyota_cares@toyota.com) yesterday to request information concerning production numbers of our beloved 1986-1988 4Runner 22R-TE models and they politely replied, "... we do apologize, further specific details as to the number of vehicles released would be considered proprietary information."
Oh well, I tried! I've always wondered how many were produced in total for the US market and the breakdown of the different trim packages sold. I wish we had someone on the inside to get us that information,
Nice specs and simple upgrade!
You may want to ask them what the red wire is for, and how they plan to connect it.
I hope it's not from Batt positive to Alt output, like some do, because that will effectively bypas some of your fuses/fusible links meant to protect stock circuit/wiring.
Originally Posted by TrailTrek2Fish
...further specific details as to the number of vehicles released would be considered proprietary information....
Good... to keep our tricks more mysterious.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 02-08-2018 at 06:08 PM.
Dennis at LCE called me back and he confirmed the aforementioned alternator is compatible with the 22RTE per their technical team. As far as the larger diameter cable goes, he said I just need to swap the OEM one with this new one. No bypassing of any fuses, etc,. also per their technical team.
01-16-2018 | 08:10 PM
I dunno why they didn't?
I've always wondered how many were produced in total for the US market and the breakdown of the different trim packages sold. I wish we had someone on the inside to get us that information, 
