So, trying to do a write up on my 1uz swap. 1uz 92 ls400(26 16 22 26) into my 94 4runner (3.0/ r150f 4x4) I also just finished my sas so for you ifs guys things could be different.








If anyone has body harness pin outs for these two vehicles it would help at the moment.

Pull 3vz. Keep the 2 body harness plugs if youd like to do a clean wiring job with no solder/ crimps. I have most the Toyota pins left over from my lexus is300 wire tuck. Just so happens I don’t have the particular pins in the lexus ls400 ecu. So I will have to solder as I’m not waiting for pins. You can usually find them at eastern beaver or what used to be newunitedracetech.
I will start with what needs to happen with the trans.

Bell housing: Youll need a bell housing to adapt trans to motor. I used ksracing ebay one. I had to cut the bellhousing where the slave mounts because it pushed the slave too far away from the fork. I cut about an inch off and redrilled / tapped the bolt holes. The bellhousing came with a pilot bearing and a sleeve that goes on the end of the input shaft of the trans to fit the bearing. Sleeve fit wayyy too tight. I will never get it off again. this is the part i cut



Flywheel: I brought the 3vz flywheel to a machine shop along with the spacer from the 1uz torque converter that had the center bore and bolt pattern for the flywheel. I had them bore out the bolt pattern and center bore to match the spacer so the 3vz flywheel will fit on the 1uz. I also had them take off 5/16 from the back of the flywheel where it bolts on so it moves closer to the engine to help with starter engagement. For all that plus a flywheel resurface it was 130 I believe. I used the 3vz clutch. I have a friend that has this same setup and he used the original 4runner throw out bearing. Mine was not working for some reason so I had to use a 3.4 tob. It’s a bit too much but I think it will work. Took some work installing the slave though.

so ran into issues. clutch is not working. slave is pushing a good inch but clutch is not disengaging. heard that sometimes the clutch rusts to the flywheel and you can start it in high gear to dislodge it. gonna try that. slave was hard to install because the 3.4 tob was a slight bit too big so i had to push the fork a bit to get the slave on. ive tried shorter shafts on the slave so the fork had a little play and got nothing.

update:
got clutch sorted. not sure exactly what happened to begin with. i dont think i disconnected the slave til after the clutch wasnt working but when i did eventually disconect it i was also bleeding the powers steering and after 3 days of bleeding the clutch slave realized i was using ps fluid :/ been a long build. changed that out and now the clutch is working great.

Transmission: got moved back 2 inches to make the motor fit. When 1uz valve cover hits ebrake bolts is where I stopped. You can get a bracket that slides the trans mount back. I believe from lowrange offraod(need to check that). Its basically a 3/8 thick plate that bolts to frame crossmember with slots that allow you to bolt the trans in anywhere back to like 4 inches.

Driveline: ended up being long. Original driveline length it 48 ¼ collapsed or so and im measuring 46 ¼ from trans yoke to diff yoke. I know another guy that has done this swap and he said he used the stock driveshaft somehow even though we have almost the same setup. But mine wont work so im looking into a shorter driveline. A 3gen pickup manual shortbed came out to the right length. 45 ½ trans to diff. unfortunately it was a nasty rollover and has a dent in it so im still looking.

Inside the cab: I had to cut the floorboard at the shifter about 2 inches to the rear and weld a plate on the front to make the rubber shifter seal boots work.





Motor mounts: ended up being about 2 ½ inches tall using the original 4runner rubbers to mount too.



Fuel line for 1uz is on opposite side as the hardline for the truck. I got a 3 foot steel braided -6an line to fill in the gap and connected it to the 1 ft rubber hose coming off the fuel rail. Was a challenge finding the right fittings because I couldn’t find the right info on google. A lot of people just cut the fitting and clamp a hose on. If you don’t want to do that the fitting size is m14 1.5 inverted flare. i currently have the hardline m14 1.5 inverted directly into the -6 an hose on the one end. it screwed on but i doubt its going to seal. we will see. stock hardline fitting(m14 1.4 inverted flare, male) to 6an female seems to be holding up. no leaking. you will also need to run a return line back to the fuel tank. I used a male nipple 6 an to 6an inside tank up through the top of the fuel pump hanger plate. Tied that to a 6an female to 3/8" barb 90 degree. Make sure you don't get the nipple inside too close to the edge. It still has to fit inside the hole in the tank




Cruise control: has the same motor so I just used the cruise control cable from 1uz and connected it to the cruise control motor from the truck



Exhaust: I used ls400 manifolds. Cut the flanges to the cats off and they fit except at the steering shaft. I cut and pie cut the tubing from the first cylinder til it missed the rag joint/ steering.

ugly from here but i used pieces i cut out because budget




Coolant: using 4runner radiator is a bit tricky. Obviously you cant run the mechanical fan if your already pushing the trans back to make room upfront unless you push the motor way back with some other modifications. There is not quite enough room to run a radiator hose between the radiator and pulleys and theres not enough room to run a hose down the drivers side of the motor so the one hose has to run over to the pass side from the middle of the motor then down to the bottom of the radiator then back to the pass side and 90 in. one of the lexus hoses will get you over and down, then I used 1 ½ exhaust pipe and welded a bead on the end to keep the hose from slipping off and used it to join a couple hoses. The top was a tight fit and weird angle so I used 2 hoses and some pie cutting on the exhaust pipe. As for the heater hoses I was able to make those work. Youll have to figure them out. The small hose coming off the thermostat housing can be capped.







Throttle cable: I pulled the lex throttle cable then left it in the car when I sold it so I had to use the 4runner cable. It is very long for the application and wont fit the throttle cable bracket so I had to make a new throttle cable bracket.



Intake box: air box wouldn’t fit without extensive mods. I had an extra cone filter some 4 inch tubing and some plate. So I made an adapter and bolted it to the afm tube. 4 inch was tretching it. Had to use allen bolts but I got it to work. Battery will need relocated.





Battery relocation: 4runner has battery on pass side. Lex/1uz has battery on drivers. Air intake made the decision easy. Had to move the battery to drivers side. Made a battery tray. welded some nuts on the bottom and ran bolts up through into it.





oil filter: oil filter hits frame rail where im at. i bought a summit oil filter relocation but they used straight fitting coming off the block off plate. i have a regular 90 and a 2 piece 90 on the way. the 2 piece 90 is 1/2 npt to 5/8 barb which i need 1/2 npt to 1/2 barb so its gonna be some work getting it to fit the hose if i even can. I ended up getting 5/8 hose for the 2 piece fitting.

Power wires: fuse box in engine bay needs to run to battery that is on the drivers side now and its only about 8 inches long. So I cut the wire off of the plate that connects the abs and alt fuses and ran my own wire and just used a terminal to one of the bolts. The wire I ran to the fire wall. I also have a 2/0 power wire for my amps I ran to the same spot on the fire wall where I installed a battery stud. From the battery stud I ran a 2/0 wire to a fuse right before the battery, then to the battery. starter power wire runs to battery now that its on the drivers side but it’s a bit short. Threw in a fuse and added about a foot of wire. Alternator you could run into this same fuse but since the alternator plug wiring and oil level wiring are grouped with it I just ran it toward the firewall where I put my post

Psteering: cant remember on this too much. I believe I used the 4runner ps lines. I bent them but now I need them moved back in the direction they originally were so you might not need to even bend them.



Wiring: Im working on the wiring now so ill have to update later. I ran the 1uz harness through the same place the 3vz harness went through. I had to slide the firewall seal a little and tape it back up. I pulled the wire harness for the manual trans out of the 3vz wire harness before I sold it so ill have to tie that back in when I get there.

alternator wires i ran the ls400 plug over to the drivers side like on the ls400. the 3.0 alt plug is right there also. so i hooked them together.
the lex wht/blu(s) goes to toyota wht(s)
lex blk/yel(ig) goes to toyota red(ig)
lex yel(l) goes to toyota yell(l)

if someone can please check these and confirm for me thatd be great. for some reason all i can find is 40/40/40 ecus or 28 16 22 34 even though it seems like most people get the 26 16 22 26 ecus(the one i have)

issue fixed, see below; also going to update post with wiring. for some reason, the first day i tried starting it i didnt have the il1 # 3 and il1 #13 hooked up so it cranked but wouldnt start. figured that out then tried starting it and the starter wouldnt disengage. ended up taking the starter relay out and just jumping pins 3 and 5 to start it. now im not getting any signal from the starter pins il1#7 and the toyota ih1 #22 but i can start it by jumping the pins. dont have wiring diagrams just pieces of wiring pinouts so im a bit lost at the second. new starter relay didnt work either

update:
so evidentally i didnt make my harness long enough to my aftermarket alarm when i put the lexus electronic seats in. i moved the seat too far forward and it unplugged it. plugged it back in and my starter works now?




Here's a difficult to read map.




wiring i have
lexus
il1 #2, #3 #12 #13 all going to toyota ih1 #14 (igsw)blk/rd
il1 #7 (Blk) going to toyota ih1 #22 (sta)black/w

e11 #4(blk/or) going to toyota ih1 #16 (mrel)wht/red
e11 #5(yel/rd) going to toyota ih1 #3 (cel)v
e11 #6(grn/rd) going to toyota ih1 #6 (FPR)blue
e11 #7(wht) going to toyota ih1 #7 (acmg)blu/ blk a/c not need to start
e11 #8(grn/blk) going to toyota ih1 #23 (fc)grn/y
e11 #19(grn/wht) going to toyota ih1 #5 (brake)grn/wht not need to start
e11 #26(blk/yel) going to toyota ih1 #10 (Batt)blk/org

il1 #4(y/g) should run to ih2 #14(y/g) if im not mistaken. seems a little on the cold side. theres 3 temp sensors so its either this one or the other one for temp gauge to work. do not run the ecu temp gauge on e10. it will have starting issues as that temp sensor is used for temp based fuel trims.

tach: il1 #6(blk) run to ih2 #20(blk) you will then need to adjust your tach. i will update with pictures at some point. but remove gauges. remove plastic clear part and the black plastic part under that surrounding the gauges. there is 4 screws in the back right behind the speedo that when removed will allow you to remove speedo. now you can look back behind the tach and will see a white plastic knob with a phillips pattern cut into it. theres a couple ways to adjust it. hook up an aftermarket tach and match revs or test with a multimeter(did work good for me). i got the rpms set around 5-600 at idle. then rapped it out with the screw driver in position. let it bounce off rev limit just long enough to get the rpms at 6500 at rev limit..

Issue fixed, see below; truck is running. it dies at idle unless i am very careful or heel toe it. found out my o2 sensor is broke. waiting on that. that could be the issue. I still have to figure out oil pressure, oil level, a/c. i ran the existing transmission plugs up through the firewall today so i think that should make my speedo work but the clutch situation i cant check it.

UPDATE:(12/26/15) FIXED idle issue. i originally had a bad pin out diagram so it said ih1 pin 10 was mrel and pin 16 was batt. that is not the case. its the opposite, pin 10 is batt and pin 16 is mrel. truck took a couple starts to learn how to start on first try good but it is doing good. i now have a cel which im assuming is o2s and im burning through fuel like crazy. also a mild misfire which im assuming is a result of the o2, if not it atleast has something to do with the cel.


update to the update (1/3/16): i got it sorted. I checked my primary o2 sensors and one of them was getting a funny reading. 120 ohms across the heater circuit. tested the signal circuit and it fluctuated at start and fluctuated from 1.2v to 2.5v. switched it out with my 2jz o2 and it is running great so far. no cel and i had it running for 30 minutes and drove it 5-10 miles.

update:
wire harness to trans means speed and reverse lights work

Clutch pedal pad fell off. It is snowy and slippery so I put some self tapping pan heads in it. Should switched the black and green around



Any questions feel free to ask. Im still working on the finishing touches so ill try to update this when I can. With pictures and wiring pinouts and any issues if they arise. I do recommend getting a radiator specific for this. It would be cleaner, easier and cool the vehicle better.

might as well make this a build thread.





truck came with tinted windows, 4" trail master ifs lift and aftermarket alarm and cheap tires and wheels.

painted grill and all chrome black, painted / tinted sidemarkers and also dremeled them out to fit the turn signal bulbs. tinted tails. tinted windows. painted gauges and added led lights.

welded rear differential. 4.56

i also installed the 92 lexus ls400 electronic seats. just redesigned the brackets on the seat rails to fit the 4runner bolt holes. i did cut out the frame for the front bolt holes on the drivers one to drop the front of the drivers seat as they are sitting an inch or 2 higher than the old seats. plus i cut the floor out under the seats and boxed them out lower to fit the amps under the seats. didnt allow for a big amp but mine are old school 500-700 watt amps i think. one high range amp and one low range rockford fosgate. running rf mid up front and some cheap rears. rf 12" in custom box. i sold my big stereo so this one is one i aquired. will work on upgrading this.





made the front and rear bumpers and roof rack using a grinder and a tape measure lol. sliders are in the works.








just got done with the sas. too much to go through and i wasnt planning on doing this so i didnt get many pictures. 83 axle. made all my own brackets. bought the 6" shackles and leaf spring plates, hyster

axle i put new seals everywhere. made a brake dust cover delete from the brake dust cover. painted the knuckle green. clear coated the axle after i cleaned it. designed my own knuckle gussets(upper and lower) made an upper axle gusset from a 3 inch square tube. installed a low pro drain plug. needs axle and birfs still but ill do that later when i break them next month.




got a 4.56 diff v6 in it.

i ued the allpro disc brakes to make my ifs brakes work.

springs are a ruf 5 pack from a 79(2 overloads) and another ruf not sure of the year but 6 pack(2 overloads). took out the overloads. cut the rest of the springs to taper down and got a longer bolt to slap them together. i originally used a 3/8 thick short 6 inch leaf that was on one of the packs but that made my pack 2 1/4 inch and it hit my hysteer so i removed that.





leaf spring hanger i made from 3/8 thisk 2x3 rectangle across. then 3/8 thick 3.5 square drop brackets on the end. reinforced the drop hanger with 3/16 plate on one side and 3/8 plate on the other using that as a twist prevention back to the frame.




reinforced the frame from firewall to front hanger with 3/16. on driversside i did plates on both sides. passenger i just did one.




shock hoops are tg. still havent mounted them.

Got my tires in 36 13.50 15 super swampers irok radial. I have about 7" lift front. 5.5 rear (4" spring 1.5 coil spacer) made a drop bracket for panhard and brakes. Sways I couldn't get to drop anymore than 4" cause it hit the lower arms. Gonna switch the rear end eventually



Made a square front driveline

 

Nice writeup, it should come in handy for others wanting to do this swap! Nice work on the sas, I like how your front bumper turned out too!

 

thanks! I tried to consolidate things on the 1uz. info was so scattered it made things very questionable

 

I wish I could remember what wire I cut on mine.. When I first did the swap mine was running like yours.. I changed tps , mass blah blah .. had a guy come over. there was a wire that was only supposed to get 12v when starting and I had it getting 12v all the time

 

thanks! thats some good info. i will re-look at my wiring. that is very likely the case. i initially hooked it up as a start only so its possible i hooked them up constant just to start then got distracted when it actually did start.

 

ive been lookin into this and i am finding some discrepancies. i have found posts saying ih1 pin #10 is batt and ive found posts saying ih1 pin #16 is batt. i currently have pin 16 hooked up as batt. i will have to get out my mulitmeter when i can find time.


basically i just need to get some wire diagrams

 

so i took a multimeter to my wires and ih1 pin16 is not batt. pin 10 is. i switched the 2 and disconnected the ecu to reset it. didint start good at first but after i let it run for a bit it has been starting everytime on its own and no dying at idle. i will check it another day or 2 to make sure but i think i got it sorted! i do have a cel that wasnt there before but it could be my secondary o2 not hooked up. i will figure out how to pull the code and update.

thank you inchworm!!!

 

i got it sorted. I checked my primary o2 sensors and one of them was getting a funny reading. 120 ohms across the heater circuit. tested the signal circuit and it fluctuated at start and fluctuated from 1.2v to 2.5v. switched it out with my 2jz o2 and it is running great so far. no cel and i had it running for 30 minutes and drove it 5-10 miles.

 

sorry about that diagram, there were some discrepancies I found afterwords but never documented as I got pretty busy.. Now into a new swap and was looking for a IH1 pinout but the white connector from the lexus not the runner and I come across my old diagrams in use.