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I hate to post on here but here I am. I was hoping the first rebuild I did would be my last but all it took was a littler over 1 year or 11k miles later for that to change.
First was coolant coming from the side of the timing cover. Then the oil pan started to slowly leak. THEN my mechanic tells me I have a slight head gasket leak. OH JOY! Trifecta cluster *uck
Here we go, Jennifer is going under the knife (again).
$$$
Frustrated since I spent so much money on this truck, here I am, spending more. This time I went with 22rePerformance and bought their kit along with some new hoses, hardware and sensors. Jerry is a class act guy. Very helpful! Awesome dude!
So here is my Rebuild 2.0 kit. YES, I've made a huge NO NO by using the same head bolts on my last rebuild. This time I got the good stuff ..... and it came with an OEM head gasket.
Here is Jennifers condition; A dirty bitch.
Day 1:
Before surgery
Done (2 hours):
- oil and coolant drained
- battery disconnected
- intake
- intake plenum
- radiator
- Most connectors have been unplugged
- Heater hoses
- Exhaust down pipe
Ran into a little bad luck today when I saw the chain damper (plastic) broken. Not sure if it broke last night when we were taking off the head or broke when I was driving. The thing is we could have got a lot put back on but I did not want to risk it. So I ordered the part from toyota and it should arrive tuesday.
in the mean time I started to clean and paint some parts.
My friend came over to help us put things back together (thank GOD).
I would like to say getting that dam sprocket back on the cam was a pain in the ass. We were able to use a long crowbar to compress the chain tensioner to allow enough slack to jiggle the sprocket back on the camshaft.
Installed
- Head with new ARP bolts (90lbs)
- Alternator
- Power steering
- Exhaust manifold
- Distributor
- Spark plugs + wires
Here is the cork oil pan gasket. Looks like bacon to me.
This side is just about done.
This side tomorrow.
Questions:
The bypass plate in the back of the valve cover, I torqued those bolts down to 14lbs, is that right? (Maybe these questions can help someone else in the future).
What is the torque for the spark plugs?
I seem to be missing the "bolt/nut" to the downpipe/intake manifold. Is there a hardware store I can pick that one piece up at?
There is one bolt that goes through the oil pump and timing cover where some anti seize is applied. The end inside (2-3 threads) looks really close to the tensioner. Is it suppose to be that close?
** I also noticed a lot of detail missing from the FSM *sigh. Lots of torque spec questions.
Last edited by BK2TFUTURE; 04-16-2015 at 10:53 AM.
i find most (like 95%) of torque specs in the Haynes manual. not sure on the other stuff. hardware store measurements are tricky, most stores don't carry fine-pitch thread like our trucks use.
standard toyota bolt/nut sizes:
head size- bolt dia x pitch
22- 16mm x 1.50
21- 14mm x 1.50
22- 12mm x 1.50 (lug nuts, shift knob)
17- 12mm x 1.25
14- 10mm x 1.25
12- 8mm x 1.25
10- 6mm x 1.00
McMaster-Carr caries a few of the right sized bolts and nuts, but the heads are 1mm larger than toyota. example: 8mm x 1.25 bolt will have a 13mm head, as opposed to toyota's 12mm head. in a pinch, they work, especially with next-day delivery (for around here), or at least really fast delivery everywhere else.
Looks like one of the half aluminum moons dose not fit. Fits in the back but not the front. I will have to make a call tomorrow. Also, over the weekend I need to buy a new chain with big enough links (for the back) so we can put the motor back in using the leveler. It will make things much easier.
Installed
- Rear Main Seal
- Fly Wheel
- Clutch
- Motor installed (pain in the ass)
- Some connectors and some bolts
The home stretch is approaching. The pig is back in her sty. Still have some things to put on, bolt down and torque but we are getting there. Maybe 1 or 2 more days and I can drive this into the sun set.
Last edited by BK2TFUTURE; 04-06-2015 at 11:20 PM.
- Motor mounts + other bolts torqued
- Starter
- Slave
- Exhaust down pipe bolted
As we're double-checking everything, my buddy pointed this out. Crap, I cannot remember. Where does this ground go? I thought it went in the back of the alternator. Hmmm ...
Took the day off yesterday and while I was out, 2 of my friends put everything back on.
Day 13
My buddy called me to tell me fuel was leaking from the pressure regulator. Either the crush washers were no good or it was not tighten enough or both. So I bought new crush washers and a 22mm wrench and tightened that thing down. Gave it a couple of cranks and no more fuel leaking! Time to get this thing started!
It started!!!! She's alive!
But we have a oil leak coming from the oil pump. It's also making a funny noise as well. Now we have to take things out and check the oil pump.
So we are set back now. We cannot take the crankshaft pulley bolt off. Anyone recommend a tool?
- New O ring and oil pump installed
- Belts
- Fan + shroud
She runs!
Still not done. I let the truck idle while I checked for leaks and topped with coolant. As it was idling it seemed as if it was struggling and then shut off. I waited a while and started her back up. Left it idling and seem inconsistent. It drops and then catches its self.
I also notice a lot of moisture coming out of the exhaust (water?) and it pops a lot too (more than before). Not loud or crisp but noticeable. I will double check the timing when my buddy is around.
I do see a tiny bit of oil forming at the bottom of the oil pump between the 2 bolts (all torqued at 14lbs). Any suggestions?
I also see a bit of coolant at the top corner of the timing cover where the bypass hose connects to. All timing cover bolts were torqued to spec. Suggestions?
Also when I give it some throttle I notice the motor shaking. More than before.
Buddy came over tonight with his timing gun and boy we're we wayyy off! Timing was at 15 degrees and at 600 rpm. Truck is idling fine now, idle is bit high so i'll adjust it again this weekend.
We noticed as soon as you start the truck, the temp goes to the middle. Cold? After some testing with the ohm meter we snipped a bit of the wire that connected to the t-stat sensor and soldered an extension since the wire was already chewed up.
The Temp sending unit I think was the issue. Must of been loose.
As of now, I'll have to babysit this thing and check for leaks. I see oil in the back where the transfer case is and the rear differential which I already. UGH!
I'm in the process of ordering new bolts for the timing cover (4) and see if using those and retightening them will have solve this. I do not think the bolts are 100% original. Here are some pics of the timing cover.
Where the gasket sticks out, you can see the coolant wetness and the oil.
03-24-2015, 10:50 PM
It's also making a funny noise as well. Now we have to take things out and check the oil pump. 
.
