Bojangles 1987&1994 Toyota pickup build-up thread
02-07-2011, 12:33 PM
#221
Registered User
Thread Starter
HAHAHAHA! I had a girlfriend call me once, screaming, "My car is smoking and smells really bad, and it wont go!".... I asked, "Did the lights warn you?" She answered, "Uhhh, yeah, the Engine light was flashing, and oil light, but I had to get off the freeway first!".... "You just blew up your motor, you can't drive w/out oil, and you had a leak, and it warned ya, ..so there you go", I said, ..... to which she answered, and I quote, ....."What?? It had oil when I bought it!", hahahaha! She blew up a nearly Brand new Northstar V8 Cadillac, lol. It just had an oil leak from a sender or something that she didn't wanna take in for a few hours on a recall.
"Josh?...Hey...uhm...The motor wont crank, i dont know why"
"What'd you do?"
"Uhm...I dont know...Can you come look at it?
When i climbed under the truck, there was a nice pretty piston rod sticking out of the oil pan...and that oil pan did NOT have a drain plug in it.
So while he was playing in the mud, he blew the motor...On my first truck
Bout brought me to tears. Everyone should have a yota
Because everyone knows that a yota could run 3000 miles without a drop of oil. Bahaha.
02-07-2011, 12:57 PM
#224
Registered User
Thread Starter
02-07-2011, 02:39 PM
#228
I think that some of those motors, the ones squeezed in there, they had oil senders and such in difficult places.... Plus, the blocks are aluminum.... (Aluminum + No oil or Water = DONE!) lol. Anyway, it was just the sender, which she could have driven in and they'd have fixed it for FREE, ..just her lost time. But, NOOOOOOOOO! lol. Not sure where else they leak, but that was a common problem that, once it started to thread out, ...it would finally just POP OUT, completely, and you'd lose all oil pressure in about 10 seconds, .......plus, much of your oil, too! lol. Thus, 'TURN OFF QUICK ONCE LIGHT COMES ON..... or else!" She didn't do that, instead driving it another 5 miles, ....thus, "You voided the warranty, ma'am!" 5G'S!
02-08-2011, 11:46 AM
#229
Registered User
Thread Starter
I think that some of those motors, the ones squeezed in there, they had oil senders and such in difficult places.... Plus, the blocks are aluminum.... (Aluminum + No oil or Water = DONE!) lol. Anyway, it was just the sender, which she could have driven in and they'd have fixed it for FREE, ..just her lost time. But, NOOOOOOOOO! lol. Not sure where else they leak, but that was a common problem that, once it started to thread out, ...it would finally just POP OUT, completely, and you'd lose all oil pressure in about 10 seconds, .......plus, much of your oil, too! lol. Thus, 'TURN OFF QUICK ONCE LIGHT COMES ON..... or else!" She didn't do that, instead driving it another 5 miles, ....thus, "You voided the warranty, ma'am!" 5G'S!
And you are right chef,
Aluminum does NOT like friction and it does NOT like to get hot.
I have a few friends who have figured that out the hard way. lol
ALRIGHT!....For the past week or so ive noticed what seems to be the ticking of my valve train starting to get a little bit louder...My engine has right at 15,000 miles on it, and ive heard that you should tighten the rocker arms after 15,000 miles. I have no idea how to do this as ive never done it before...It is currently under warranty, should they do this for me? Any ideas?
02-08-2011, 08:31 PM
#231
Not sure on that one, Bo, ...better read the fine print. Mine, I found out the hard way, would involve taking my motor out and bringing to them.....thus, I did it myself, hahaha....and then I did it again, and then thought, "Hmm, this cam is falling apart, maybe just leave it? NAH, ok, new cam it is", did it again, ....then again 2 times as I broke in the new cam. YAY! lol. But seriously... warranties can vary, and sometimes, it will only include parts, not labor(unless something they did went wrong.....I would doubt it's covered, but who knows?lol)
It's really not that difficult, brudda.... just go through the FSM and take your time,....then, if you really wanna make it easier, get a valve adjusting tool made for our motors. MADE IT SO MUCH EASIER and more steady with the adjuster screw/nut, simultaneously. REALLY worth it, IMHO. So, if you need some instruction, send me a PM and I'll be glad to walk you through it. HOWEVER, ...if they DO include that in warranty/maintenance... sure, go for it, why not?
It's really not that difficult, brudda.... just go through the FSM and take your time,....then, if you really wanna make it easier, get a valve adjusting tool made for our motors. MADE IT SO MUCH EASIER and more steady with the adjuster screw/nut, simultaneously. REALLY worth it, IMHO. So, if you need some instruction, send me a PM and I'll be glad to walk you through it. HOWEVER, ...if they DO include that in warranty/maintenance... sure, go for it, why not?
02-09-2011, 10:14 AM
#232
Registered User
Thread Starter
Not sure on that one, Bo, ...better read the fine print. Mine, I found out the hard way, would involve taking my motor out and bringing to them.....thus, I did it myself, hahaha....and then I did it again, and then thought, "Hmm, this cam is falling apart, maybe just leave it? NAH, ok, new cam it is", did it again, ....then again 2 times as I broke in the new cam. YAY! lol. But seriously... warranties can vary, and sometimes, it will only include parts, not labor(unless something they did went wrong.....I would doubt it's covered, but who knows?lol)
It's really not that difficult, brudda.... just go through the FSM and take your time,....then, if you really wanna make it easier, get a valve adjusting tool made for our motors. MADE IT SO MUCH EASIER and more steady with the adjuster screw/nut, simultaneously. REALLY worth it, IMHO. So, if you need some instruction, send me a PM and I'll be glad to walk you through it. HOWEVER, ...if they DO include that in warranty/maintenance... sure, go for it, why not?
It's really not that difficult, brudda.... just go through the FSM and take your time,....then, if you really wanna make it easier, get a valve adjusting tool made for our motors. MADE IT SO MUCH EASIER and more steady with the adjuster screw/nut, simultaneously. REALLY worth it, IMHO. So, if you need some instruction, send me a PM and I'll be glad to walk you through it. HOWEVER, ...if they DO include that in warranty/maintenance... sure, go for it, why not?
My thoughts exactly.
Let me check with the warranty company and see what they say.
If not ill end up doing it myself. I dont mind getting my hands a little dirty
02-09-2011, 10:53 AM
#233
Registered User
Thread Starter
I just got in touch with my warranty company, they said "Tightening the valve train is not included in the warranty. That is considered maintainance."
Therefore i would guess i will be doing this myself.
Chef, PM me with any tips and instructions you may have if you dont mind!!!
Therefore i would guess i will be doing this myself.
Chef, PM me with any tips and instructions you may have if you dont mind!!!
02-09-2011, 12:11 PM
#234
Registered User
Wow, slow day at work today...Just read/skimmed the thread.
Nice ride, she's looking good.
I would not go with a higher lift but I would get longer rear springs and toss those blocks.
valve adjusting is a snap, nothing hard about that, just have to do it warm and try not to get burnt. Also give the head a torque test as well just to be sure. It's all in the book.
.
Nice ride, she's looking good.
I would not go with a higher lift but I would get longer rear springs and toss those blocks.
valve adjusting is a snap, nothing hard about that, just have to do it warm and try not to get burnt. Also give the head a torque test as well just to be sure. It's all in the book.
.
02-09-2011, 12:18 PM
#235
Registered User
Thread Starter
Wow, slow day at work today...Just read/skimmed the thread.
Nice ride, she's looking good.
I would not go with a higher lift but I would get longer rear springs and toss those blocks.
valve adjusting is a snap, nothing hard about that, just have to do it warm and try not to get burnt. Also give the head a torque test as well just to be sure. It's all in the book.
.
Nice ride, she's looking good.
I would not go with a higher lift but I would get longer rear springs and toss those blocks.
valve adjusting is a snap, nothing hard about that, just have to do it warm and try not to get burnt. Also give the head a torque test as well just to be sure. It's all in the book.
.
Thanks!
Im actually sitting at work myself haha.
I work at a marina, the dock is full, there are no boats coming in, and no one leaving. Which leaves me sitting on Yotatech
As for the lift, i dont think im going anymore on the suspension.
When i regear it, im planning on possibly putting a small body lift on and going from my 34's to 36's.
Id also like to find some longer springs for the back so i could get rid of the blocks. I think it would actually soften up my ride a bit because i think mine are actually pretty worn out right now.
Im going to have to read up on the FSM because i have thrown my haynes manual in the trash. (I hated it)
Next manual i buy will be a chiltons.
02-09-2011, 12:40 PM
#236
Registered User
As for the rear and springs...look into the Chevy 63's and get a hanger kit...They might get you high enough with longer shackles. If not check out wabfab.org
02-09-2011, 01:26 PM
#237
Thanks!
Im actually sitting at work myself haha.
I work at a marina, the dock is full, there are no boats coming in, and no one leaving. Which leaves me sitting on Yotatech
As for the lift, i dont think im going anymore on the suspension.
When i regear it, im planning on possibly putting a small body lift on and going from my 34's to 36's.
Id also like to find some longer springs for the back so i could get rid of the blocks. I think it would actually soften up my ride a bit because i think mine are actually pretty worn out right now.
Im going to have to read up on the FSM because i have thrown my haynes manual in the trash. (I hated it)
Next manual i buy will be a chiltons.
Im actually sitting at work myself haha.
I work at a marina, the dock is full, there are no boats coming in, and no one leaving. Which leaves me sitting on Yotatech
As for the lift, i dont think im going anymore on the suspension.
When i regear it, im planning on possibly putting a small body lift on and going from my 34's to 36's.
Id also like to find some longer springs for the back so i could get rid of the blocks. I think it would actually soften up my ride a bit because i think mine are actually pretty worn out right now.
Im going to have to read up on the FSM because i have thrown my haynes manual in the trash. (I hated it)
Next manual i buy will be a chiltons.
02-10-2011, 09:36 AM
#238
Registered User
Thread Starter
But i had a set of 63's off of an old 2wd chevy pickup and i sold the whole truck not thinking about it
Oh well...Ill have to search around.
02-10-2011, 11:27 AM
#239
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02-10-2011, 11:40 AM
#240
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Thread Starter
I just replaced the one in my 94 a couple weeks ago. I found a dealership that has a ton of stuff for these trucks. I needed the antenna assembly and got it from them as well. Stuff's not cheap though! I think this part was about $90 shipped. Try this out..... http://www.partswebsite.com/pagetoyo...123&type=parts
But i will sooner or later.
Did yours come with the little screws to attach it to the dash board?
I just placed an order for my antenna yesterday so it should be here tomorrow!
