jaredbishop

I had the battery load tested and it's good. I gave the started a few taps with a hammer and tried to rock to 4runner forward and back with little success. All i got was a click when I tried to turn the engine over. I'll pull the starter and check the leads. What a pain. If I have a 87 4Runner it looks like I should be able pull one from an 84-93.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

I agree with racerflea. It's probably your solenoid. I would definately take it apart and check the condition of your contacts, and wouldn't buy a new starter.

The other thing it could be is your ignition relay is getting worn and your not getting the full voltage needed to the solenoid. An easy way to check that is to make a little test jig. Here is a link that explains how to make the jig:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest

You need to check the voltage reading while it's under a load (like while your trying to start it.) I can bet it's probably either one of those two things! If it is the second thing mentioned most people buy a Hot Shot starter relay (made by Painless Wiring), & your problems are solved. Basically the Hot Shot starter relay is wired in, (the smaller wire that goes to your solenoid now goes to the Hot shot relay, in turn it sends 12v directly from your battery down to the solenoid).

I hope this is helpful, I went through all of this before. Mine would make a click sound...sometimes it would start if you tapped on the starter with a hammer. I bought a new starter and a new battery, the "new starter" did exactly the same thing with the new battery hooked up, tore apart the solenoid ,contacts looked like brand new, finally bought the Hot Shot hooked it up, problem solved.

*EDIT* a quick way to test the starter yourself is to hook both the main power wire and the wire that goes to the solenoid to the + battery post and ground the frame of the starter to the - post. If it kicks out and spins like crazy, it's probably your ignition relay.(I would still check the condition of your solenoid contacts).

jaredbishop

Ahhh I'm still leaking coolant out of the rear of the block. It's not as bad as it was, it's just a drip but after 24 hours that is about 3 cups of coolant. This time I'm going to just pull the transmission off so I can leave the engine connected.

racerflea

A drip sounds like a loose line or a line with a cracked end

jaredbishop

It's been a bad day in my garage. The starter problem is on hold. I've got coolant in my intake manifold and down into the oil pan. Crap. My gaskets were all installed correctly. I'm inclined to think that I crossed a water line on the intake manifold someplace. The other option is the block is cracked and the oil and water are mixing.

jaredbishop

Since my major malefaction in connecting the correct hoses up I could use some help knowing what plugs into where.

ioumateo99@yahoo.com

Hey Bigred. Don't give up. I'm in the same boat now with my 86 4Runner. have a crossed hoses line. I'm leaking coolant from and a exhaust port on the exhaust manifold. back right not sure what the fu($..... but I'm starting to check hoses. Good luck. Keep me posted.

CA18_Sean

Definitely got some of those lines mixed up!



#1 is your idle air control valve. The nipple on #1 needs to curve up to #3 nipple in the following picture. The hose that you have going to #1 nipple currently is a coolant line. This is how you have coolant in your intake manifold. It needs to loop down to #4 nipple in the last picture.

#2 hose goes to right below the throttle body using the hose you currently have on #4 I believe.





Hope this helps some!

CA18_Sean

This helped me out a bunch when I pulled my intake manifold last weekend!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-22re-159781/

jaredbishop

CA18_Sean thanks. I took these pictures and numbered them. According to the pictures:

#1 connects to #5 using the correct hose or Air Control valve hose for the actuator connects to #7?
#2
#3
#4
#5 connects to #1 using the correct hose.
#6
#7 Air Control valve hose for the actuator connects to #1?
#8
#9
#10 Air valve hose No.2 from the chamber
#11 connected to the idle air control valve which is seen next to #5, I'll fix that hose.
#12 Brake Booster hose?
#13 PCV hose No.1?

CA18_Sean

Lol, I'm just gonna go take pics of how mine is set up and post them later up later Easier than trying to figure out exactly what goes where with #'s.

I don't have it exactly the way the factory did it, I simplified the coolant lines that run through the Idle Control Valve. I didn't put any coolant through the throttle body, but I live in Florida, so it's not like the cold weather is ever going to stick my throttle in the winter. As far as I can tell that's the only reason you'd ever need to heat up your throttle body...

jaredbishop

Thanks, I've looked at a dozen trucks none of them are the same. As long as I get the important ones in the correct location I should be OK.

jaredbishop

I think I've got it can some confirm these hoses are in the correct location!






The one I don't know what it connects to please help.

jaredbishop

I rented a radiator pressure test kit from Autozone, dumped about a gallon of water into the radiator and pumped it up. I found a sensor and 4 hoses that needed to tightened. After that found I need to replace the upper and lower hoses. I had the PSI up to 14 and it slowly dropped due to the slow leak in the upper and lower hoses. I had to run the tool back before I could replace the hoses and make sure the system is good to go.

What was important for me to find out was that my hoses created a closed system, nothing was pushing coolant in to the intake manifold.

Hoping to start it up this Saturday!

jaredbishop

Yesterday I got it stared on the first try. I only ran it for a few seconds. I was kind of surprised it started us a well as it did. I dove it up and down the street and let it idol for a few minutes. I had a bit of oil that got of a few parts that got hot. This created a bit of smoke till it burned off. At times it sounds like the alternator belt seemed to make a bit of noise.

I set the timming to about 8 so it would be a little smoother.

Do I need to adjust the rockers after running it for a bit? What should I look at adjusting thightening or replacing the next 100 500 1000 miles or whatever on a newly built engine?

jaredbishop

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_L0suUgOjs

jaredbishop

Thoughts for phase II:

I'm trying to decide what do next. I'll be cleaning up the interior. I'm inclined to add few more sensors that are actually useful like oil pressure, water temp, fuel pressure or a wide band. I've got to pull the dash off to fix the mess or wires stereo, replace all the dash lights. I figure this might be a good chance to add some gauges. At some point I'll add a Clinometer. It's more for the look as I think it more of a cherry on top kind of thing.

I'm going to run a power line to the rear and install an inverter.

I'm going to install 2nd Gen front seats as soon as I find some at the local Pick-N-Pull.

At some point I'm going to add solid front axle, rear elocker, a lift kit and larger tires. I'm not sure if I want to start collecting things now for that project. Right now I'm going to squeeze every bit of MPG out of it as I can.

Anyone have any advice or ideas?

Toenail619

iTrader: (1)

a vacuum guage is always nice too.

racerflea

Go ahead and collect now get a rear end from a taco ir runner that has the gears u want and the trd has a e locker built in there are threads around how that explain how to make the factory locker wrk on comand

jaredbishop

Well after driving it up and down hills for about 20 minutes I noticed the temperature gauge didn't move. Any ideas?