Big Red - 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Indiana
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is it a matter of not being able to reach them? I cut an extension in half and welded in like 20" of re-bar to make a long one. Now i sit at the back of the tranny and zip the bolts off with an air racket. When i don't have one available I just use a universal joint. This method has served me great for the past three years! (I pulled the junk 700r4 out of my old chevy 3 times. And have done a multitude of other tranny's on other peoples trucks)
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've been going lots of advice on how to pull the engine. Thank you all. If I'm able to get a hand I'll pull both engine and transmission together. I really want the transmission out to clean it and the under body of the truck. It will also make it easier to mate them together before reinstalling them.
I stopped by Clegg's machine shop in Orem Utah for a quick tour and some advice on how to save some money when dropping off my parts.
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1246.jpg)
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1247.jpg)
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1248.jpg)
Here are a few things I've learned regarding the 22RE from a guy who rebuilds engine for a living. I trust him.
-It's cheaper to tear everything down and turn it in to be cleaned and machined. Put it back together yourself.
-With pistons pull the caps off, throw away the used barring, and bolt the cap back on the same piston in the same direction.
-The bolts for the piston rods and cap are not stretch bolts so they can be reused.
-With crank shaft pull the caps off, throw away the used barring, and bolt the cap back on in the same place in the same direction.
-Pistons should interchangeable. If they are not the piston or the block is out of spec and should be replaced to machined.
-Have a machinist do a compression check on the head. Cost $50. If they have to tear it down, machine it and rebuild it that is an extra $120. If a head passes the compression it will function as efficiently as rebuilding it.
-Having the pistons, block, and crank shaft they can measure everything and make sure everything will work. I'm saving money and putting it together myself. Don't forget to use plastigage.
-Adding am RV cam will not require any timing or other adjustment with the head.
-Making your car/truck run lean will cause damage to your pistons. A bad way to save money on gas.
I also did a little more work in preparation for my engine pull pizza party this Saturday. If you're in Utah and want to stop by PM me.
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1249.jpg)
I'm having a hard time with the four bolts on the shifter. I may have to heat them up to get the lose
I stopped by Clegg's machine shop in Orem Utah for a quick tour and some advice on how to save some money when dropping off my parts.
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1246.jpg)
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1247.jpg)
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1248.jpg)
Here are a few things I've learned regarding the 22RE from a guy who rebuilds engine for a living. I trust him.
-It's cheaper to tear everything down and turn it in to be cleaned and machined. Put it back together yourself.
-With pistons pull the caps off, throw away the used barring, and bolt the cap back on the same piston in the same direction.
-The bolts for the piston rods and cap are not stretch bolts so they can be reused.
-With crank shaft pull the caps off, throw away the used barring, and bolt the cap back on in the same place in the same direction.
-Pistons should interchangeable. If they are not the piston or the block is out of spec and should be replaced to machined.
-Have a machinist do a compression check on the head. Cost $50. If they have to tear it down, machine it and rebuild it that is an extra $120. If a head passes the compression it will function as efficiently as rebuilding it.
-Having the pistons, block, and crank shaft they can measure everything and make sure everything will work. I'm saving money and putting it together myself. Don't forget to use plastigage.
-Adding am RV cam will not require any timing or other adjustment with the head.
-Making your car/truck run lean will cause damage to your pistons. A bad way to save money on gas.
I also did a little more work in preparation for my engine pull pizza party this Saturday. If you're in Utah and want to stop by PM me.
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1249.jpg)
I'm having a hard time with the four bolts on the shifter. I may have to heat them up to get the lose
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1250.jpg)
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Which Engnbldr Rebuild Kit Should I Get?
I'm looking at three rebuild kits on eBay by Engnbldr I'm not sure I want to spend money on new pistons or a cam right now but they seem like great deals.
Toyota rbld engine kit 22R 22RE 1985 1995 pickup 4 RNR
Toyota 22R 22RE 268C/Torkr Cam & MASTER KIT *EB kit!!
Toyota 22R 22RE 270/430 H/O Cam & ENGINE REBUILD KIT
Toyota rbld engine kit 22R 22RE 1985 1995 pickup 4 RNR
Toyota 22R 22RE 268C/Torkr Cam & MASTER KIT *EB kit!!
Toyota 22R 22RE 270/430 H/O Cam & ENGINE REBUILD KIT
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think I'm ready to start moving things out. Is this cross bracket the only thing that is holding up the transmission. Looks like there are just 4 bolts on ether side.
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/big_red_046.png)
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: (LSD) Lower Slower Delaware
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jared, there is two bolts at the bottom of the transmission to the mounts. You will need the remove the transmission crossmember to remove the engine transmission together. Also you may have to raise the truck a little higher so you can angle the transmission down.
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Screen-Shot-2012-02-24-at-8.29.52-AM.png)
#34
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Unbolt the whole plate not just the shifter. Also remember to mark your drive lines and yoke plate on the tcase for reinstall. oh yeah remove speedo cable and sensor wires also. good luck.
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#40
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How to unbolt the driveline.
Sorry so late on reply, a buddy of mine does aligments and balancing, tires, etc. Recommend to always mount drivelines back the way they came off. Could create unwanted vibration. Also bolts lineup and avoid the hassles later. Put the truck 4Lo, 4th/5th gear and choke both sides of the front tires. It will keep the truck/axles from moving. Then use two Ibelieve 12mm wrenches and unbolt.
![](http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_1257.png)