93Xtra-Cab's 1993 Pickup
01-13-2013, 08:24 AM
#245
Registered User
Thread Starter
My 194 LEDs came in yesterday, but I'm still waiting for my 12" LED strips. I also got my new drivers side axle shaft in about a week ago. The install seems pretty stright forward, but I found this sweet write-up, just in case: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/
EDIT: It looks like I got the same axle that toyospearo got, only I didn't pay $99 for mine. I only paid $59
EDIT: It looks like I got the same axle that toyospearo got, only I didn't pay $99 for mine. I only paid $59
Last edited by 93Xtra-Cab; 01-13-2013 at 08:31 AM.
01-23-2013, 10:26 AM
#250
Registered User
Thread Starter
I got my new CV shaft installed about a week ago. It became kind of a pain.
This is what the FSM says:
There are a couple things wrong with this:
1. It is much easier to loosen the 6 nuts that fasten to CV to the differential if you leave the truck on the ground with the tire on and keep the hub locked, especially if you're doing this by yourself like I did. If you can't get to a nut, just unlock the hub, spin the shaft, re-lock, and untighten.
2. Step 4? Forget about it. Save some time and head scratching and just go straight to undoing the upper ball joint, brake caliper, and the bracket that holds on the brake line. It's kind of a pain, but what the FSM shows is physically impossible. Trust me.
EDIT: Oh, for those who need to do this in the future, have fun loosening the 6 nuts. I sprayed them with PB Blaster 2 days before and they still were extremely hard to get off. I pulled both triceps trying to get them off, but I was kind of in a weird spot
The sucky thing is that they were extremely easy to get back on. I torqued them to FSM specs (61 ft*lbs) and didn't put nearly as much effort into tightening them as I did loosening. I don't know if they're all like that or just mine. I'm just saying that you should stretch beforehand 
This is what the FSM says:
There are a couple things wrong with this:
1. It is much easier to loosen the 6 nuts that fasten to CV to the differential if you leave the truck on the ground with the tire on and keep the hub locked, especially if you're doing this by yourself like I did. If you can't get to a nut, just unlock the hub, spin the shaft, re-lock, and untighten.
2. Step 4? Forget about it. Save some time and head scratching and just go straight to undoing the upper ball joint, brake caliper, and the bracket that holds on the brake line. It's kind of a pain, but what the FSM shows is physically impossible. Trust me.
EDIT: Oh, for those who need to do this in the future, have fun loosening the 6 nuts. I sprayed them with PB Blaster 2 days before and they still were extremely hard to get off. I pulled both triceps trying to get them off, but I was kind of in a weird spot
The sucky thing is that they were extremely easy to get back on. I torqued them to FSM specs (61 ft*lbs) and didn't put nearly as much effort into tightening them as I did loosening. I don't know if they're all like that or just mine. I'm just saying that you should stretch beforehand
Last edited by 93Xtra-Cab; 01-23-2013 at 10:49 AM.
01-25-2013, 05:59 AM
#251
Registered User
Thread Starter
01-25-2013, 09:54 AM
#253
I got my new CV shaft installed about a week ago. It became kind of a pain.
This is what the FSM says:
There are a couple things wrong with this:
1. It is much easier to loosen the 6 nuts that fasten to CV to the differential if you leave the truck on the ground with the tire on and keep the hub locked, especially if you're doing this by yourself like I did. If you can't get to a nut, just unlock the hub, spin the shaft, re-lock, and untighten.
2. Step 4? Forget about it. Save some time and head scratching and just go straight to undoing the upper ball joint, brake caliper, and the bracket that holds on the brake line. It's kind of a pain, but what the FSM shows is physically impossible. Trust me.
EDIT: Oh, for those who need to do this in the future, have fun loosening the 6 nuts. I sprayed them with PB Blaster 2 days before and they still were extremely hard to get off. I pulled both triceps trying to get them off, but I was kind of in a weird spot The sucky thing is that they were extremely easy to get back on. I torqued them to FSM specs (61 ft*lbs) and didn't put nearly as much effort into tightening them as I did loosening. I don't know if they're all like that or just mine. I'm just saying that you should stretch beforehand
This is what the FSM says:
There are a couple things wrong with this:
1. It is much easier to loosen the 6 nuts that fasten to CV to the differential if you leave the truck on the ground with the tire on and keep the hub locked, especially if you're doing this by yourself like I did. If you can't get to a nut, just unlock the hub, spin the shaft, re-lock, and untighten.
2. Step 4? Forget about it. Save some time and head scratching and just go straight to undoing the upper ball joint, brake caliper, and the bracket that holds on the brake line. It's kind of a pain, but what the FSM shows is physically impossible. Trust me.
EDIT: Oh, for those who need to do this in the future, have fun loosening the 6 nuts. I sprayed them with PB Blaster 2 days before and they still were extremely hard to get off. I pulled both triceps trying to get them off, but I was kind of in a weird spot
The sucky thing is that they were extremely easy to get back on. I torqued them to FSM specs (61 ft*lbs) and didn't put nearly as much effort into tightening them as I did loosening. I don't know if they're all like that or just mine. I'm just saying that you should stretch beforehand 
01-25-2013, 10:02 AM
#254
Nope, not all like that, the 6 bolts? But always pretty good Pop on them. The reason Totota uses that method is cuz 1. Is usually in the air on a lift and 2. The leverage, even when its just on stands, is sooooooo much better. I hung from mine, all my 230#.... pushing with my foot on frame... using a 32", 0.5" drive breaker and stuck a huge screwdriver between 2 bolts ..... so I was pushing and pulling at the same time. But then again, I'm not back east! TOTALLY feel for those who fight the orange monster!
01-25-2013, 10:39 AM
#255
Registered User
Thread Starter
I guess I should have jacked the truck up, put a short length of 6x6 lumber under each of the front tires and then let it down on the lumber. It would have given me more ways to configure myself under the truck. Of course, hindsight is always 20/20 
I'm back in school now
I'm back in school now
01-25-2013, 10:45 AM
#256
DON'T KNOCK THE SKEWOOLS! lol... No, really, good for you, man! KILL IT! I REALLY enjoyed College. 
S'hard, at times, but YOU'LL MISS IT, trust me! lol. Lots less screaming in college compared to at the workplace, right? lol.
See ya round, bud, ..... stay safe through the rest of the winter!
S'hard, at times, but YOU'LL MISS IT, trust me! lol. Lots less screaming in college compared to at the workplace, right? lol. See ya round, bud, ..... stay safe through the rest of the winter!
02-01-2013, 03:55 AM
#257
Registered User
Thread Starter
On my way to school yesterday, I pulled off the freeway and I started feeling this terrible vibration. It felt almost as if I were driving on those rumble strips you see on the side of the road, just not that bad. At first I thought it was a front wheel bearing, but after driving it 30 miles back home, it felt like it was more in the rear. After taking a look through everything, I'm fairly certain that it is the carrier bearing for the 2 piece rear drive shaft. It has a significant amount of play. How much play should there be?
02-01-2013, 05:56 AM
#259
Registered User
Thread Starter
02-01-2013, 06:53 AM
#260
yeah, a quarter-inch seems excessive. is it the actual bearing, or is it the mount in the bracket? if it's just the mount, bolt that down. if it's the bearing itself, and the bearing is too much money, you could look into a single-piece driveshaft.
