8T8 4RUNNER's 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
07-17-2011, 11:05 PM
#1381
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Sounds great, bet any frustrations you may have had during the build just went up in exhaust fumes. It didnt take long for it to fire up. Great job guys.
Where your kids are jumping in the air, If I remember right, wasnt there a Toyota commercial in the 80's or 90's that said "Oh what a feeling" doing something similar? That just came to mind when I seen that pic.
Where your kids are jumping in the air, If I remember right, wasnt there a Toyota commercial in the 80's or 90's that said "Oh what a feeling" doing something similar? That just came to mind when I seen that pic.
07-18-2011, 01:45 AM
#1382
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
yup...the Toyota jump, that's what that was for...and cuz Mark asked for it.
yes,.....took it for a little ride yesterday.
OK....off to work.
yes,.....took it for a little ride yesterday.
OK....off to work.
07-18-2011, 04:37 AM
#1383
Registered User
What Jerry hadn't said that was take 4. First start though. Took me 3 times to get the dizzy right. It's a little harder to see #1 on the 3.0 dizzy then it is on a 22r. 
. I also had Joe prime the fuel system, key on key off key on key off a few times, as well as we first removed the coil and turned it over some to prime the oil pump.
I also don't think he mentioned, that was Joe himself starting it up.
. I also had Joe prime the fuel system, key on key off key on key off a few times, as well as we first removed the coil and turned it over some to prime the oil pump. I also don't think he mentioned, that was Joe himself starting it up.
07-18-2011, 05:59 AM
#1385
Registered User
Some of my lessens learned/notes for this, hope Jerry and Joe don't mind.
When attaching vacuum hoses and such on the passenger side, ensure your reed valve hose is on first, otherwise it's a big PITA to put on. That one hose took me 30 minutes to attach after missing it and the other hoses were on. In addition to that, is the hose was long enough as well, kinda. All I did to make it fit was spin the reed valve some so the hose connection on it was closer to the intake plenum where the other connection is. ie spin it clockwise some.
After setting cam to crank timing, ensure the balancer pulley grove (not talking oil pump spline groove) for TDC is also at 0 degrees while both cam gears are matchmarked correctly as well. Keep in mind, the way the tensioner works, it IS possible for the passenger side cam to be out of time, once the tension is put back on the belt. As well as after removing the tension on it, the belt can jump a tooth or two as well. Marking both the belt itself and the corresponding sprocket tooth is a way to ensure it had not jumped on you.
If engine does not want to start on first crank when everything is back together, double check and triple check distributor position. And ensure coil wire is on. This can be checked with the timing light. It does two things, it tells you if your getting spark, if the timing light doesn't light up you don't have spark. (assuming you have the timing light hooked up properly). It also will tell you if your distributor is firing near 0-10 degrees BTDC. 0 degrees should be enough to get it to start. If your a tooth or two off timing will be at 15-25 degrees BTDC or ATDC. This can be further checked by rotating the distributor fully advanced or retarded as well. If the cranking improves like it wants to start you know your off a tooth or two.
Funniest part of the day was the spark plugs, ensure your using the correct size spark plug socket.
As far as the Thorley header goes, the supplied EGR extension pipe went on without having to cut it. When I put it on, the EGR itself was not bolted down at all and was tilted a little in order to install the extension pipe. I also ensured the hole for the pipe inside the EGR was clean and no rust etc was hindering the pipe from pushing itself all the way into it. I just used a flat head screwdriver to clean the rust and gunk out of it. Along with this was 1 of two things was in the way installing the EGR valve. Either the forward most mounting stud for it, or the engine lift hook. With either one of these removed it makes it easier to install the pipe. Keep in mind with the hook as it's also attached to the power steering and A/C brackets, so removing that stud on the intake manifold would be easier.
Also when dealing with the exhaust and original cat, make sure the cat flanges are perfectly flat, otherwise it will be nearly impossible to seal those connections. This is the only thing I remember having to kinda rig to get to work and I still think it might be leaking some. It's either easier to buy a new cat, or have a machine shop resurface those flanges for you. This goes for the factory downpipe too if retaining it.
That is all I can think of right off the top of my head.
When attaching vacuum hoses and such on the passenger side, ensure your reed valve hose is on first, otherwise it's a big PITA to put on. That one hose took me 30 minutes to attach after missing it and the other hoses were on. In addition to that, is the hose was long enough as well, kinda. All I did to make it fit was spin the reed valve some so the hose connection on it was closer to the intake plenum where the other connection is. ie spin it clockwise some.
After setting cam to crank timing, ensure the balancer pulley grove (not talking oil pump spline groove) for TDC is also at 0 degrees while both cam gears are matchmarked correctly as well. Keep in mind, the way the tensioner works, it IS possible for the passenger side cam to be out of time, once the tension is put back on the belt. As well as after removing the tension on it, the belt can jump a tooth or two as well. Marking both the belt itself and the corresponding sprocket tooth is a way to ensure it had not jumped on you.
If engine does not want to start on first crank when everything is back together, double check and triple check distributor position. And ensure coil wire is on. This can be checked with the timing light. It does two things, it tells you if your getting spark, if the timing light doesn't light up you don't have spark. (assuming you have the timing light hooked up properly). It also will tell you if your distributor is firing near 0-10 degrees BTDC. 0 degrees should be enough to get it to start. If your a tooth or two off timing will be at 15-25 degrees BTDC or ATDC. This can be further checked by rotating the distributor fully advanced or retarded as well. If the cranking improves like it wants to start you know your off a tooth or two.
Funniest part of the day was the spark plugs, ensure your using the correct size spark plug socket.
As far as the Thorley header goes, the supplied EGR extension pipe went on without having to cut it. When I put it on, the EGR itself was not bolted down at all and was tilted a little in order to install the extension pipe. I also ensured the hole for the pipe inside the EGR was clean and no rust etc was hindering the pipe from pushing itself all the way into it. I just used a flat head screwdriver to clean the rust and gunk out of it. Along with this was 1 of two things was in the way installing the EGR valve. Either the forward most mounting stud for it, or the engine lift hook. With either one of these removed it makes it easier to install the pipe. Keep in mind with the hook as it's also attached to the power steering and A/C brackets, so removing that stud on the intake manifold would be easier.
Also when dealing with the exhaust and original cat, make sure the cat flanges are perfectly flat, otherwise it will be nearly impossible to seal those connections. This is the only thing I remember having to kinda rig to get to work and I still think it might be leaking some. It's either easier to buy a new cat, or have a machine shop resurface those flanges for you. This goes for the factory downpipe too if retaining it.
That is all I can think of right off the top of my head.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 07-18-2011 at 06:16 AM.
07-18-2011, 12:21 PM
#1387
Hey, .........Brandon, ............ YOU ROCK! lol. No, really, I just wanted to re-mention, ... very cool of you to jump in and expedite that FIRST START! I know, I'm sure you wanted to be there, etc., ...but it was still good of ya! And hey, now you wont be worried about tackling a 3.0 if a GREAT deal comes along, right? lol.
Seriously, (and NOT to take anything away from Jerry and Joes MONTHS of hard work! YOU GUYS ROCK, TOO!)
Seriously,
(and NOT to take anything away from Jerry and Joes MONTHS of hard work! YOU GUYS ROCK, TOO!)
07-18-2011, 05:01 PM
#1388
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
NO Chef....nothing can take away what Joe and I did. definitely needed Brandon's expertise for that final part. as you can tell there are so many sub-projects with this project as with any, that each must be successfully completed and then you cross t off, move forward and hope you don't go backwards.
the timing belt definitely deflated me and Joe. considering and remembering how much time we spent on that and the frustration we had doing it, to have it wrong.....that was a bad moment. Brandon put together all his brain cells and figured it out. that was the difference between a newbie and a seasoned vet.
the donut gasket was used and honestly seems to be holding up.......we will see.
battery is dead now. i presume the battery starts the truck and runs any electrical stuff instead of the alternator. we cranked it alot that 1st night, so it needs to be charged up. getting prices on alternators....for the aggravation involved in removing it, a new one will be going in.
just need money.....and time again.
thanks again everyone. need to step back and tie up alot of loose ends around here, since Joe's project has been on the front burner for a long time. with the majority of the work behind us, it shouldn't be hard to get back to speed again.
the timing belt definitely deflated me and Joe. considering and remembering how much time we spent on that and the frustration we had doing it, to have it wrong.....that was a bad moment. Brandon put together all his brain cells and figured it out. that was the difference between a newbie and a seasoned vet.
the donut gasket was used and honestly seems to be holding up.......we will see.
battery is dead now. i presume the battery starts the truck and runs any electrical stuff instead of the alternator. we cranked it alot that 1st night, so it needs to be charged up. getting prices on alternators....for the aggravation involved in removing it, a new one will be going in.
just need money.....and time again.
thanks again everyone. need to step back and tie up alot of loose ends around here, since Joe's project has been on the front burner for a long time. with the majority of the work behind us, it shouldn't be hard to get back to speed again.
07-18-2011, 05:28 PM
#1390
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
about $150.
I think i will clean contacts 1st there was a nut that held the presumed ground wire on that was all rusty.
I think i will clean contacts 1st there was a nut that held the presumed ground wire on that was all rusty.
07-18-2011, 08:30 PM
#1391
Don't you have that 80A fuse in that sucker, like mine does? I've blown that by shorting out the alternator wire and popped one in and voila!
Sorry, hope you can find a quick fix! ......But I understand, seeing it might have to come out, .....that if it does, it's coming out and becoming a 'CORE'! lol. Still, hope you CAN fix it!
Sorry, hope you can find a quick fix! ......But I understand, seeing it might have to come out, .....that if it does, it's coming out and becoming a 'CORE'! lol. Still, hope you CAN fix it!
07-19-2011, 02:17 PM
#1393
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
I am off tomorrow.not sure if that means i wll do anything, but at least I'm not at work.
STATUS REPORT:
oil leak.....was definitely the oil pan plug bolt thingy....PHEW!!!
water leak noted today.....from the back.....not sure from where, have to investigate further.
exhaust.....yup...leaks....need to heat it up and torque it down. tried to torque one and got about 1/10th of a turn on one nut, not the other one......may end up getting this welded soon down the road.
someone tell me please, cuz i'm smart and dumb at the same time. this thing will only run for as long as the battery has power, considering that the alternator seems kaput.
otherwise she's looking good. not good but GREAT!
the boys spent the last 3 days cleaning the garage (without even asking them)......could just about park 3 vehicles in there. the place was a dang shame of a mess.
OK....gonna go out and stare at it....hehehehhe
STATUS REPORT:
oil leak.....was definitely the oil pan plug bolt thingy....PHEW!!!
water leak noted today.....from the back.....not sure from where, have to investigate further.
exhaust.....yup...leaks....need to heat it up and torque it down. tried to torque one and got about 1/10th of a turn on one nut, not the other one......may end up getting this welded soon down the road.
someone tell me please, cuz i'm smart and dumb at the same time. this thing will only run for as long as the battery has power, considering that the alternator seems kaput.
otherwise she's looking good. not good but GREAT!
the boys spent the last 3 days cleaning the garage (without even asking them)......could just about park 3 vehicles in there. the place was a dang shame of a mess.
OK....gonna go out and stare at it....hehehehhe
07-19-2011, 04:42 PM
#1397
07-20-2011, 01:50 AM
#1400
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
