8T8 4RUNNER's 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
07-03-2011, 05:09 AM
#1181
Registered User
Jerry,
I see you have already bolted the reed valve back on the passenger head, (the clutch line hanger bolts on to a part of the reed valve bracket as well). That valve uses the straight copper tube that came with your Thorleys and it is a real PITA to bend to fit the original location of the pair valve. My advise, don't try to bend it, you will likely trash it.
I ended up cutting the entire bracket off the pair valve with a hacksaw, and it simply sits atop the copper tube that comes off the header. You can even cut the tab off the scraped pair bracket to use for the clutch line hanger. It's pretty tight in there, and you will need a slightly longer hose to replace the one that comes off the back of the pair. I ended up trimming approx. .75" off the copper tube for better overall fitment.
Hopefully this photo will help. The arrow points to the tab cut from the pair bracket to hold the clutch line hanger
Good luck man, you're getting close.
I see you have already bolted the reed valve back on the passenger head, (the clutch line hanger bolts on to a part of the reed valve bracket as well). That valve uses the straight copper tube that came with your Thorleys and it is a real PITA to bend to fit the original location of the pair valve. My advise, don't try to bend it, you will likely trash it.
I ended up cutting the entire bracket off the pair valve with a hacksaw, and it simply sits atop the copper tube that comes off the header. You can even cut the tab off the scraped pair bracket to use for the clutch line hanger. It's pretty tight in there, and you will need a slightly longer hose to replace the one that comes off the back of the pair. I ended up trimming approx. .75" off the copper tube for better overall fitment.
Hopefully this photo will help. The arrow points to the tab cut from the pair bracket to hold the clutch line hanger
Good luck man, you're getting close.
Last edited by Wrenchinjoe; 07-03-2011 at 05:44 AM.
07-03-2011, 05:26 AM
#1182
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
perfect timing. I was just going to post what I figured out.
yes indeed, it looks like I have to use a corner of that bracket to take up the gap for mounting the clutch line hanger which mounts on top of the reed bracket then onto the head. without the reed valve bracket there will be about a 1/4'' or greater gap to either make up with washers or a piece of the bracket. good to hear I'm not insane with my plan. always good to validate my thoughts with someone who has been through this. thanks Joe.
alright time to repost a pic...this is a pic of the 2 places that have to be plumbed. rear-most is for the REED valve, forward-most is for the EGR
as you can see from the pic what Joe is referring to is that the bottom of the REED valve and the corresponding area it is to be plumbed into do NOT fall in line, so that is why you are to remove the REED valve bracket and hack it with a hack-saw (hack saw, where's my hack saw???)
almost the same view but might be showing the purposeful misalignment a bit better. about an inch and a half towards mid-line and 2 inches too far forward.also shows a good bit of the clutch line hanger that is in the mix.
next pic shows the copper tubing that will be the new mounting for the REED valve. the corrugated tubing is for the EGR which most certainly will give a bit
and showing the original tubing for the REED valve still attached to the passenger's side exhaust manifold carefully stowed in a box under Joe's 4runner for now. this will have to be cut to allow removal of the original compression nut so that it can be reused to attach to the bottom of the REED.
soooooooo....that's how that works. got it.
yes indeed, it looks like I have to use a corner of that bracket to take up the gap for mounting the clutch line hanger which mounts on top of the reed bracket then onto the head. without the reed valve bracket there will be about a 1/4'' or greater gap to either make up with washers or a piece of the bracket. good to hear I'm not insane with my plan. always good to validate my thoughts with someone who has been through this. thanks Joe.
alright time to repost a pic...this is a pic of the 2 places that have to be plumbed. rear-most is for the REED valve, forward-most is for the EGR
as you can see from the pic what Joe is referring to is that the bottom of the REED valve and the corresponding area it is to be plumbed into do NOT fall in line, so that is why you are to remove the REED valve bracket and hack it with a hack-saw (hack saw, where's my hack saw???)
almost the same view but might be showing the purposeful misalignment a bit better. about an inch and a half towards mid-line and 2 inches too far forward.also shows a good bit of the clutch line hanger that is in the mix.
next pic shows the copper tubing that will be the new mounting for the REED valve. the corrugated tubing is for the EGR which most certainly will give a bit
and showing the original tubing for the REED valve still attached to the passenger's side exhaust manifold carefully stowed in a box under Joe's 4runner for now. this will have to be cut to allow removal of the original compression nut so that it can be reused to attach to the bottom of the REED.
soooooooo....that's how that works. got it.
Last edited by 92 TOY; 07-03-2011 at 05:28 AM.
07-03-2011, 06:09 AM
#1184
Registered User
Look closely at the clutch line hanger, it bolts to the pair bracket a half inch above the bolt that joins the pair bracket to the head, so it is more than just a spacer. Washers might work, but you will have to angle the clutch line bracket downward in front to make that line up with the head bolt.
I cut that oval shaped piece off the old pair bracket and that worked perfectly, but play with it bit and see what works best for you
I cut that oval shaped piece off the old pair bracket and that worked perfectly, but play with it bit and see what works best for you
07-03-2011, 06:33 AM
#1186
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Look closely at the clutch line hanger, it bolts to the pair bracket a half inch above the bolt that joins the pair bracket to the head, so it is more than just a spacer. Washers might work, but you will have to angle the clutch line bracket downward in front to make that line up with the head bolt.
I cut that oval shaped piece off the old pair bracket and that worked perfectly, but play with it bit and see what works best for you
I cut that oval shaped piece off the old pair bracket and that worked perfectly, but play with it bit and see what works best for you
OK...looked at it again. I see exactly what you are talking about.
so, to me, I have to make 2 cuts: 1 to provide that mounting tab to the clutch line, the other to cut away the excess bracketing for the REED.
thanks Joe...stay tuned in, I may have other issues.
07-03-2011, 09:12 AM
#1188
when i got my headers used the po gave me his already mod REED valve. he also cut the excess mounting brackets. once its all bolted up it will just sit there. it wont be a problem not being mounted. since my is automatic i didnt have to worry about any clutch line
if your gonna wrap the starter and headers. i would do it now before the header bolted in. i did mine in the truck and lets say it could be better if i did it off the truck
if your gonna wrap the starter and headers. i would do it now before the header bolted in. i did mine in the truck and lets say it could be better if i did it off the truck
07-03-2011, 11:26 AM
#1190
Ok then, ....so I have to call you Jerry-Putz-Pink Sandle-White Glove McGee now? Geeesh, ...how about just "HEY, PUTZ, ... NICE WORK!" lol. Nah, that's gonna make you think I'm not impressed by your perseverance, haha. Seriously Jerry, I know what you mean...it's a "first time" thing... so you're like "Nice work? WTH? I don't know what I'm doing, but ok!" lol. Right? Yeah, ...but it's STILL NICE WORK! Especially considering you're doing it with your boy, ...very much love that! PLUS, ...the freakin headers look SICK! lol.
07-03-2011, 11:55 AM
#1191
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
thanks Mark. Of course, I will take the compliments.....I'm not that dumb. But it's kinda like at work when I get called to do an IV on someone who has been stuck several times and I get introduced with a big """blah-blah blah....best there is" etc etc etc.......and I say, no bragging until AFTER it's over.
07-03-2011, 12:32 PM
#1192
Hahaha, ..yeah, I get it! People will show up at events and say, "So nice to meet you, I'm honored to partake....", .... to which I stop them, RIGHT THERE, lol... saying, "Sir/Maam.... everyone has unique tastes.... I try my best to cook for THEM/YOU ALL, rather than my own tastes, with a blending of my own mixed in there.... it's all a balance of sticking with what works/percentages! If you love it, I'LL BE ECSTATIC! If you don't, PLEASE tell ME, and I'll DO SOMETHING FOR YOU! Otherwise, you'll be unhappy and just spread the word that "This guy's not all that", when in reality, ...I KNOW I'm nothing but a food slinger, lol.... I just need to chance to cook for the tastes of those few who don't agree with the majority percentage, sound good?" THEY REALLY appreciate that.... and MOST OFTEN, they'll tell me, "Yeah, not really happy with this", ....whereas, ...before, if I'd said nothing, they'd probably assume I'm proud or something and not want to say how they feel/what they think about what I'd prepared. Ya know? I know it's a lil diff. example, ...but even in hobby's, .... I don't need "You're great at this", ...what I usually need is HELP! hahahaha!
07-03-2011, 12:40 PM
#1193
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
bwhahaha....HELP!....no I'm kidding, I'm OK.
found where the little orphan SOB of a ground wire came from. it must have been held onto the main harness with oil muck....so I studied my pics looking for something like it and the only one I saw was on the driver's side (mind you we found this on the floor in front of the passenger's side......because the wire harness is flopped over to that side)....looked at it again and that was exactly the one in the pic....so it's tacked into place. so that's good.
looked at more pics to see just how the fuel rails were configured....mostly just interested in a few square inches of it for right now for mounting purposes......figured that out.
made a point with Joe to watch where the header is stabbed through near the transmission as there is a conduit of wire flapping in the breeze but , for now, is on the wrong side of the pipe.
absolutely and positively need header wrap on some conduit etc etc etc.....no way to make it any farther away. i'm thinking aluminum foil wrapped in header tape.....OPINIONS PLEASE.
OK....time to jump in the pool with the boys.....wife is pulling weeds (not sure what's gotten into her, but I'm OK with it)
later
found where the little orphan SOB of a ground wire came from. it must have been held onto the main harness with oil muck....so I studied my pics looking for something like it and the only one I saw was on the driver's side (mind you we found this on the floor in front of the passenger's side......because the wire harness is flopped over to that side)....looked at it again and that was exactly the one in the pic....so it's tacked into place. so that's good.
looked at more pics to see just how the fuel rails were configured....mostly just interested in a few square inches of it for right now for mounting purposes......figured that out.
made a point with Joe to watch where the header is stabbed through near the transmission as there is a conduit of wire flapping in the breeze but , for now, is on the wrong side of the pipe.
absolutely and positively need header wrap on some conduit etc etc etc.....no way to make it any farther away. i'm thinking aluminum foil wrapped in header tape.....OPINIONS PLEASE.
OK....time to jump in the pool with the boys.....wife is pulling weeds (not sure what's gotten into her, but I'm OK with it)
later
07-04-2011, 05:24 AM
#1194
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
hello...
off today. Happy 4th to everyone...stay safe, keep all your fingers attached.
1st off....teaser pic.....hehehehhe
next...and a big thanks to WRENCHINJOE for the advice, this mod went very easily
trimmed the "ear" off the bracket used to hold the REED and the CLUTCH LINE to the head
put into place (also figured out what a bag marked "1 short rear, 2 longer front" meant...it was a short bolt for the very back, longer one for going through this contraption and a 3rd one that won't get used any more
all cut up and ready to go. have to run and get header tape now....header is back out for now.
off today. Happy 4th to everyone...stay safe, keep all your fingers attached.
1st off....teaser pic.....hehehehhe
next...and a big thanks to WRENCHINJOE for the advice, this mod went very easily
trimmed the "ear" off the bracket used to hold the REED and the CLUTCH LINE to the head
put into place (also figured out what a bag marked "1 short rear, 2 longer front" meant...it was a short bolt for the very back, longer one for going through this contraption and a 3rd one that won't get used any more
all cut up and ready to go. have to run and get header tape now....header is back out for now.
07-04-2011, 05:29 AM
#1195
Registered User
Design Engineering makes adhesive heat shielding, I purchased a 12" x 24" sheet from my local Advance Auto for about $22.
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...s/reflect-cool
You can cut it to fit what you need. I covered the hot side of my starter, placed a patch on the firewall where the passenger header comes down, and by cutting 1" strips was able to wrap around wires, hoses, clutch & brake lines and anything else that was too close the header.
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...s/reflect-cool
You can cut it to fit what you need. I covered the hot side of my starter, placed a patch on the firewall where the passenger header comes down, and by cutting 1" strips was able to wrap around wires, hoses, clutch & brake lines and anything else that was too close the header.
Last edited by Wrenchinjoe; 07-04-2011 at 07:15 AM. Reason: 12 inches by 24 inches - doh!
07-04-2011, 05:40 AM
#1196
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Design Engineering makes adhesive heat shielding, I purchased a 12' x 24" sheet from my local Advance Auto for about $22.
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...s/reflect-cool
You can cut it to fit what you need. I covered the hot side of my starter, placed a patch on the firewall where the passenger header comes down, and by cutting 1" strips was able to wrap around wires, hoses, clutch & brake lines and anything else that was too close the header.
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...s/reflect-cool
You can cut it to fit what you need. I covered the hot side of my starter, placed a patch on the firewall where the passenger header comes down, and by cutting 1" strips was able to wrap around wires, hoses, clutch & brake lines and anything else that was too close the header.
thanks again bud.
