85Toyman's 1994 4Runner Build up Thread
#61
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From: Centeral Willamette Valley Oregon
Here is the photo's of the hole for the new 1uz.
The boat anchor
I have left the power steering pump and a/c compressor still attached. I will pull the power steering off next. I won't remove the a/c pump until I can bring a collection bag home from work. Once I can discharge it properly it will come out as I can't use it on the 1uz motor.
The boat anchor
I have left the power steering pump and a/c compressor still attached. I will pull the power steering off next. I won't remove the a/c pump until I can bring a collection bag home from work. Once I can discharge it properly it will come out as I can't use it on the 1uz motor.
#65
The coils I don't but when I get home ill shoot u a pic of the ignitors they are in the harness that wraps over the finder I think. Let me have a look through ky phone and if I have one on my phone it will be on my thread.
#67
Po the pictures I have are a little limited but I think they may do tell I get home in about 3 hours. They are on page one and two. One coil is mounted on top of the engine next to the t-stat housing and the other one is mounted just under the drivers side cam gear cover. And the ignitors are on the right finder apron under a plastic cover. There is a pit on page two that kinda shows them where the harness is on my coffee table.
#69
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Ordered the ignitors from RMA tonight, and I sold the old 3.0 motor tonight. I also sold the oe cat as well.
I pulled the oil pressure sender and motor mounts, flywheel, and clutch, a/c, p/s from the motor before it went and I still got $150 out of it.
I just posted the 2000 4runner for sale as well on CL. Hopefully that will go soon and I can buy the rest of the parts I need.
I pulled the oil pressure sender and motor mounts, flywheel, and clutch, a/c, p/s from the motor before it went and I still got $150 out of it.
I just posted the 2000 4runner for sale as well on CL. Hopefully that will go soon and I can buy the rest of the parts I need.
#70
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I orderedt the alt from RMA. I also took the engine mounts off last night so I could start designing a mount for the engine to sit on. I also took the exhaust manifolds off last night.
What did you guys do for the 02 sensors that bolt in right by the flanges? I plan on using a magnaflow 2.5" cat back around the original spot. Did you just close the hole up. Next was the egr return line to the manifold. Did everybody just order the egr block off kit? Last question. I found a sensor that is in the side of the bottom sump oil pan on the driver side. I can't seem to find a plug to put into that sensor. Does anybody know what that sensor is for, and if it is needed.
Sorry for all the questions guys but thanks for the help.
What did you guys do for the 02 sensors that bolt in right by the flanges? I plan on using a magnaflow 2.5" cat back around the original spot. Did you just close the hole up. Next was the egr return line to the manifold. Did everybody just order the egr block off kit? Last question. I found a sensor that is in the side of the bottom sump oil pan on the driver side. I can't seem to find a plug to put into that sensor. Does anybody know what that sensor is for, and if it is needed.
Sorry for all the questions guys but thanks for the help.
#71
I orderedt the alt from RMA. I also took the engine mounts off last night so I could start designing a mount for the engine to sit on. I also took the exhaust manifolds off last night.
What did you guys do for the 02 sensors that bolt in right by the flanges? I plan on using a magnaflow 2.5" cat back around the original spot. Did you just close the hole up. Next was the egr return line to the manifold. Did everybody just order the egr block off kit? Last question. I found a sensor that is in the side of the bottom sump oil pan on the driver side. I can't seem to find a plug to put into that sensor. Does anybody know what that sensor is for, and if it is needed.
Sorry for all the questions guys but thanks for the help.
What did you guys do for the 02 sensors that bolt in right by the flanges? I plan on using a magnaflow 2.5" cat back around the original spot. Did you just close the hole up. Next was the egr return line to the manifold. Did everybody just order the egr block off kit? Last question. I found a sensor that is in the side of the bottom sump oil pan on the driver side. I can't seem to find a plug to put into that sensor. Does anybody know what that sensor is for, and if it is needed.
Sorry for all the questions guys but thanks for the help.
If you use Tundra manifolds like I did, there are bungs for the o2's in them right where you need them to be. Mine came with o2's from the wrecking yard, and they plugged right into the SC harness.
We made a block off plate for the EGR tube at the back of the intake manifold, and the Tundra manifolds don't have a provision for the pipe.
#72
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The sensor in the oil pan is an oil level sensor. The SC engine/harness I got had the plug, so I just extended the original wires when I installed the LS oil pan.
If you use Tundra manifolds like I did, there are bungs for the o2's in them right where you need them to be. Mine came with o2's from the wrecking yard, and they plugged right into the SC harness.
We made a block off plate for the EGR tube at the back of the intake manifold, and the Tundra manifolds don't have a provision for the pipe.
If you use Tundra manifolds like I did, there are bungs for the o2's in them right where you need them to be. Mine came with o2's from the wrecking yard, and they plugged right into the SC harness.
We made a block off plate for the EGR tube at the back of the intake manifold, and the Tundra manifolds don't have a provision for the pipe.
Did you have to modify the tundra flanges to fit between the frame rails? I was thinking about cutting and rotating the flanges but the working area is so tight right there. I was thinking about making a block off plate as well. Glad to hear I am on the same page as you. I would assume that the oil level sensor isn't really needed since I am using a toyota cluster. Thanks for the help.
How is your rig running now since you put a few miles on it.
Once I get this thing done we will have to meet up to compare and maybe have a trail ride day.
#73
Dunkin,
Did you have to modify the tundra flanges to fit between the frame rails? I was thinking about cutting and rotating the flanges but the working area is so tight right there. I was thinking about making a block off plate as well. Glad to hear I am on the same page as you. I would assume that the oil level sensor isn't really needed since I am using a toyota cluster. Thanks for the help.
How is your rig running now since you put a few miles on it.
Once I get this thing done we will have to meet up to compare and maybe have a trail ride day.
Did you have to modify the tundra flanges to fit between the frame rails? I was thinking about cutting and rotating the flanges but the working area is so tight right there. I was thinking about making a block off plate as well. Glad to hear I am on the same page as you. I would assume that the oil level sensor isn't really needed since I am using a toyota cluster. Thanks for the help.
How is your rig running now since you put a few miles on it.
Once I get this thing done we will have to meet up to compare and maybe have a trail ride day.
Yeah, this is what the exhaust shop did to my manifolds. It's not the prettiest, but it works, and I can get gaskets anywhere.
The truck has been running great! Fuel economy kinda sucks on the freeway, since I'm turning 2750 rpm at 70 mph. Turns out this truck came with 4.56's...
I've got a trip going on out to the Cle Elum area next month. A bit of a shakedown run, if you will. I'm expecting to break something.
Otherwise I've got about 300 miles on it so far. Tempnis great, oil pressure is great, fan works awesome.
I still need an air filter and to finish the wiring. I know I've got to have a ton of codes in the system.
Last edited by Dunkin; 04-09-2011 at 12:49 PM.
#74
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Test fit the engine. Tight fit. Still looking at clearancing the oil pan, hood scoop, still going to try to not put a body lift on. If I have to I am only wanting the 1" on there. Making progress at least.
Definetly need to either drop the motor some more or raise the body.
Definetly need to either drop the motor some more or raise the body.
#75
i dont know man your gonna have to do something. the body lift isnt so bad. but i did have to do some modifications i havent got the pictures up yet im waiting tell i get the hole thing done like the motor mounts. i have to notch the frame cross over member infront of the tank. for the driveshaft to work. so i dont have to have the engine tilted back. with the way im doing it the engine angle will be like 1 dagree. but where i put it i have to cut the tunnle for the t-case shifter as it all moved back around 3 to 4 inches.
#76
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Yeah I know that a small body isn't bad, I just really don't want to do that unless I absolutely have too. From the looks of it, I am going to have to run at least a 1" body lift. I also don't see how to run anything but a pusher fan. I have the heads pushed back aginst the fire wall and have about 6" infront of the engine. Dosen't seem like I would have enough for a fan once the rad is installed.
Just need to measure some more.
Just need to measure some more.
#77
i have around 3 to 4 inches i think from the radiator and the crank pully. but i crammed it back in there pretty far. and i was able to pick up the back of the tranny so the engine isnt at an angle.
#78
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Cool, I right now have the engine resting on the steering relay as seen in the pic and have a jack lifting the rear of the engine so it is sitting level.
As much work as this is, I am having alot of fun doing it.
As much work as this is, I am having alot of fun doing it.