1988 toyota xtra cab
#1
1988 toyota xtra cab
Just bought this beast for 350, the timing chain was broke and it needs a new head. A few cosmetic things but overall a solid truck.
Probably going to buy a re manufactured head from oreily auto parts. What kind of headers do most of you run on your 22re? I have a 95 4Runner with a 3vz but this is going to be my fist 22re build. Any suggestions are more than welcome
Probably going to buy a re manufactured head from oreily auto parts. What kind of headers do most of you run on your 22re? I have a 95 4Runner with a 3vz but this is going to be my fist 22re build. Any suggestions are more than welcome
#2
Looks like a solid truck and the extra cab does make a lot of difference for room especially if you are tall. I myself would just buy a new head. You can get one from Engine Builder. I got my last one off of ebay with everything. A friend of mine has used several of ebay heads and work great. I would not spend a whole lot on getting a head rebuilt as machine work can exceed getting a new one.
What are your plans for it? My build threads in my signature, I try to post ways of fixing issues that you are going to run into. Most are easily fixed and you will have plenty to work on, just takes a little time.
If you are wanting performance, I have seen what an Engine Builder head with the performance cam and an LCE header will do to one of these trucks. Makes a huge difference.
Welcome to Yotatech and looking forward to your build.
What are your plans for it? My build threads in my signature, I try to post ways of fixing issues that you are going to run into. Most are easily fixed and you will have plenty to work on, just takes a little time.
If you are wanting performance, I have seen what an Engine Builder head with the performance cam and an LCE header will do to one of these trucks. Makes a huge difference.
Welcome to Yotatech and looking forward to your build.
#3
if you're looking for a good deal on headers, obx has ones for '83 celica on ebay that are stainless and the same bolt pattern as the 22r. I fitted them to my 87 22R pickup w/ egr delete
http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=1808#
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181726259711?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=1808#
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181726259711?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
#5
Well, they are def. stainless. Welds looks good (I mean they're not friggin beautiful, but they are structurally good with no gaps, nice beads). They turned a lovely shade of blue after a couple runs. For $200 they're a steel.
Just mind that they are loooong and I had to drop my front sway bar 1/2" to fit them. A flex pipe at the end so they dont snap manifold studs or the block. They sound great. Better upper end power w/ a weber 32/34 (it seemed to run out of breath before).
edit: you will need to make block off plates for the egr ports, but is super easy.
Just mind that they are loooong and I had to drop my front sway bar 1/2" to fit them. A flex pipe at the end so they dont snap manifold studs or the block. They sound great. Better upper end power w/ a weber 32/34 (it seemed to run out of breath before).
edit: you will need to make block off plates for the egr ports, but is super easy.
#6
Well I bought a new head and rebuild kit, putting it together this weekend. Anyone have anything they do that would help me? I have to put the rocker assembly on the head and not really sure how to time it correctly. Thanks for the help
#7
Before doing anything, make sure to set to TDC. This will help setting the time correctly when put all back together. If you are unsure how to set to TDC, there any MANY posts on here about how to do it.
EDIT: Just realized that the chain is broken(never heard of that), makes things more difficult. Make sure the valves are open/close to the appropriate location(Posted in TDC threads) and the distributor's location is in the 11 o'clock position. When it comes to the crank position, I would read this to make it all connect.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
Read step 7 to understand where TDC is.
EDIT: Just realized that the chain is broken(never heard of that), makes things more difficult. Make sure the valves are open/close to the appropriate location(Posted in TDC threads) and the distributor's location is in the 11 o'clock position. When it comes to the crank position, I would read this to make it all connect.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
Read step 7 to understand where TDC is.
Last edited by Montana; 11-11-2015 at 08:42 PM.
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#10
Steal of a price on that truck you have there.
Do you actually reside in NW PA? I grew up in SW PA.
As far as the knock sensor goes...Are there any U-pull its near buy? If you are in NW PA, I know of a foreign U-Pull it.
I also might have a knock sensor wiring off of a bum harness that I have at the shop.
I can check in the morning if you want.
Do you actually reside in NW PA? I grew up in SW PA.
As far as the knock sensor goes...Are there any U-pull its near buy? If you are in NW PA, I know of a foreign U-Pull it.
I also might have a knock sensor wiring off of a bum harness that I have at the shop.
I can check in the morning if you want.
#12
Well I bought headers today. I bought headmans off of summit racing. And also bought a egr delete kit from lc performance and few other things from them. Have to replace oil pan now though before I can put everything back together. Is the easiest way to pull the motor? Or can you do it with just loosing the motor mounts and picking it up some with a cherry picker? I'm positive some debris got into the oil pan when the timing chain broke on the previous owner.
#13
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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
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09-21-2015 04:06 PM