coryc85

Sounds like you are getting close. I think the starter fuel is a great idea, you'll have this thing licked in a few days, gotta be something simple now.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I was out of town for a while and will be home in the morning where I will have better access to a computer. Cory had a good suggestion on your timing, see what that shows.

Doing the starter fluid will help determine if it is a fuel issue or a firing issue. Double check and make sure your air flow meter cable is hooked up real well for now for just a quick suggestion.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey Cory, I'm thinking the same thing, but every time I think of something it turns another corner. I'm at the point that it's fuel.

Here's what i checked out yesterday with the timing chain:



Crank at 0^ No Problem






And the Cam no problems there. Of Course that was after 4 full rotations does it align back up.

Want to check out the injectors so I was trying to check it out. Voltage from the resistor reads 12.26 on both Yellow and blue cable, so all looks good there. Set up the injectors to fire while out here's a picture:



Didn't work when i cranked it up, but I thought that once the key is turned it should fire out a small spread. Didn't happen, so i checked the injector plug to resistor, it showed me a 12.26 reading so the cable is good, but I found that the other side of the injector contacts read 9.86 volts. That cable is coming from the ECU and my under standing it is suppose to be a ground (I I maybe wrong, but I'm checking into that now just to make sure.

I did check to see the injectors where working by testing the it with an ohm read all came back 3.0 with in specs. Then since I had them set up on the fuel bar as in the photo i decide to test them manually. Hooked up on side of the contacts on the injectors with 12v from the battery and started the fuel pump up. Ground the other contact and each injector fired.

I'm head to the ECU to make sure all is okay there testing out per FSM today.

Hey Terry thanks for chiming in. I really am glad that you will be home with the family this summer, plus i was starting to miss your posting.

Timing seems to be okay checked it over and over takes 4 full rotations for the link to come back to the top. You can read up top of where the chain ends up each time you rotate it a full 360 on the cam.

The AFM is connected pretty good, checked all the contacts to make sure nothing is wrong or inhibiting the contacts from contacting. I'm head to the ECU because one side of the injectors plugs gets a reading of 9.86v the other side connected to the resistor gets 12.26v. So the resistor to injector is good, it the injector to ECU I'm kind of lost on so I'm headed to the ECU and Relays to make sure noting is shorted out down there.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

That voltage reading is in spec, you'll see it when you get into the ECM inspections it's 9-14. Yeah they should of fired when you cranked it,is my understanding also.

Sounds like you've just about got it. Narrowed it down to either an ECM fault or disconnect in the wireing between the computer and injectors.

If you find the ECM is triggering the ground on #10,#20 I'd go back and make sure the fuel pump is activating via the AFM. It's also possible the computer triggers the ground but doesn't allow enough current, which is the same ending as not triggering the ground at all.

Good luck and stick with it and you'll find the problem.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Finally got it running. I can't say what exactly it was. I did all I can do testing everything under the hood, injectors, resistors, Distributor, IAC, AFM, Coil, etc... to no avail. last night i started checking the voltage and ohms on the ECU all looked good, but I swapped ECU with the 86 and all the reading came back the same. Put back the 87 ECU and returned the 86 ECU.

Pulled out the Open Circuit relay and tested it, came back good. Hooked it back up didn't here the clicking sound, Disconnected the relay again and tapped it plugged it back up and clinched it in my hand. Nothing came back wrong.Put everything back together and gave it one more try. Sure enough if cranked up and keep running rough. Adjusted the distributor while it was running and it picked up. Running now, you can here a little back fire in the exhaust, but I'm pretty sure it has to do with timing the distributor and then the valve lashing or gaps. I get started on that this week.

I'm thinking the open circuit was stuck and even though it gave me a good reading doesn't mean it was doing it's thing.

Now I can start fine tuning the engine and start on the interior and then the body. Along with getting started on the 86 4Runner soon. I have a motor and and tranny out of the 87 that I will start rebuilding in pieces to get it ready for the 86, but that is like a long drawn out thing that i'm sure will take some time like the 87.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Co_94_PU for the encouragement, every once in a while a good pat on the back sure helps.

It started up I'm thinking it was a Stuck Relay that i tapped must of fixed that up.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Maybe I'm nuts but don't you want the engine at TDC when inserting the distributor? You have it at 5* BTDC it appears.

I remember I was off a tooth once and that's why Mine never started.

coryc85

Great job Junk, you were determined, that's for sure. I don't have your patience, I probably would have sold the truck and started over by now. It kindof makes sense, I mean since you verified pretty much everything else, it had to be a fuel related problem, and a stuck COR would definitely hinder your fuel getting there.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey Cory, I kind of figured it would be something small and simple. Something that simple can really make things complicated. I'm going to start fine tuning everything under the hood, and start working around the truck, brakes, etc... I'm working on the slave clutch today bleeding it and what not I still have to drive it around to see how the tranny is as I haven't gotten around to that yet.

Here and there I'm going to be cleaning up the engine that i pulled out of this truck and working on it to get it ready to put in the 86 4Runner. As well i have to start some body work on the 87 4Runner. I guess I should also start a 86 4Runner thread here as well. Back in the 80's it was CB radio's going up and down to G-Ville and my handle was Blue Runner, I guess start a thread with that title.

By the way, when i was in the garage pulling parts off the 86 to test on the 87 I saw that shocks were bleeding on the 86. They were purchased from Sears back in the 90's and they pushed those shocks with the slogan life time warranty. Anyhow Sear refused to warrant the shocks regardless of receipt and didn't even bother to look at them. I've keep a good majority of receipts from back then including the original bill of sale and financing papers from World Omni Financing. I wasn't able to find the receipt for those shocks, but I contacted Monroe Shocks and they said there is a stamped number on the metal since I don't have the receipt. Since the shocks bleed the stamp marks are impossible to read. They replied to me twice and I sent photos of the shocks to them and contacted them 2 more times after but they do not reply back good news or bad news. because of the way their customer service responds or in this case doesn't respond, I don't recommend that anyone purchase Monroe Shocks for their warranty, it's worthless.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

can someone answer my question about the distributor? Whether the engine needs to be at TDC or 5*BTDC when inserting the dizzy?

I thought it should be TDC
Looks like Junk4U did this 5*BTDC

This could be why it's running rough? Happened to me when I was off a tooth....

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

can someone answer my question about the distributor? Whether the engine needs to be at TDC or 5*BTDC when inserting the dizzy?

I thought it should be TDC
Looks like Junk4U did this 5*BTDC

This could be why it's running rough? Happened to me when I was off a tooth....

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey Philbert,

I'm sure plenty of people got there way of doing it. I have always known to set the Dizzy for EFI at 5^ from TDC and for Carb to set the dizzy at 0^.

Although I set the rotor aligned to the stamp marking on the distributor as shown in the photo above, others set it at 1200. i just googled it and came up with this video for you:


Check it out and you can see what he does, pretty much the same, but he doesn't use the stamp marking he sets his at 1200 or 12 O'clock.


By the way I myself don't understand why it has to be at 5^ and not 0^, I think I asked that question before as well.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Wow that's a great video, thanks! I had always aligned it with the valve cover OFF, making sure that the match mark on the dizzy drive gear lined up with the cam gear - I am going to try this newer approach and see if that works -thanks!!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Not trying to hijack, sorry....

This is the notch I'm talking about:


And how it lined up with the dizzy drive gear:

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey Philbert, Nice Picture... your not hijacking anything your passing on good information. Did you try and the other way and see if it matches up the way you have in these pics? I'm curious, the only way I've known to set the dizzy is with out opening up the valve cover, I'm curious.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Okay here's what's going on. I've set the timing to 5^ jumping the T and E1 in the Diag Box (Note: doesn't seem to make a difference if it's in or out). I can hear the a mis-fire or a skip in the engine as well. I did the valve lashing 8 and 12, but I can hear the valve knocking when it's revved and coming down not so much when idling. I'm sure I can still adjust the valves a little better, but I'll hold off till she's been running a little.

The check light was on while she was running, I tried to reset it by pulling the battery instead of the fuse, but she stays on no matter what. I check the code that comes up and it shows 4 and 11. 4 meaning the water thermo switch and 11 meaning the A/C switch and TPS circuit. I don't hink either have a problem, but I guess I should check them out.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Going back to the post above with the TPS. I guessing that the timing on the dizzy is off. Since T and E1 where jumped on the diag box that should of reduced the idle and taking it out should of increased it of which neither happen. This leads me to believe what codes I got maybe correct. The O2 Sensor must be foul, looks like a aftermarket and the TPS maybe be off or bad. Since the idle never changes when T and E1 are jumped i'm think the the TPS isn't working properly as it may be getting a bad or no signal.

Anyone else have any ideas what could be wrong when you jump T and E1 and nothing happens when you try to adjust the ignition timing? Like I said above I think it could be the TPS not work properly.

Guess I'll be looking at that a little closer tomorrow trying to figure this one out.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

If anyone is interested in getting a Denso O2 sensor the cheapest i found was from here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DENSO-234-1056-Oxygen-Sensor-/160682938392?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2569731018&vxp=mtr

Gizler00

iTrader: (1)

I always set mine ,85 22re EFi , at 0 TDC when I pull my dist. Haven't had any issues as of yet. The notch on the dist gear is usually always just about to mesh with the cam gear when the dist is seated. I have found , for me, that this provides a good reference point.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hi Gizler00, Thanks for checking in... many people have done it either way, I've done it the 5^ from the start of me actually toying with my first runner 27yrs ago. I never understood the reasoning for setting it at 5^, but it seemed to work and at that time it was haynes and chilton, didn't really have the internet to get the FSM and both said pretty much the same.

By the way nice little truck I hope you didn't sell it, I would have gotten the second gen also. I wish I would have bought a 2 door 2nd Gen 4runner, as it was short lived and I only got to actually see it twice when it came out.