Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Like others have mentioned this is the Idle adjustment. If this has litle to no effect it's likely a problem with the IACV, make sure all the air hoses are firmly seated under the throttle body.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey Coryc85, Thanks for the reply and help. Yeah my bad, I always call it the air/fuel mix, but all it does is adjust the flow of air. So my bad, just became a habit to call it the air/fuel mix.

Haven't gotten around to messing with the truck today, but will give it another look over tomorrow.

By the way I've got that tranny that I pulled out of the truck sitting around waiting for me to tear down and possibly change the syncros which I am interested in doing soon.


Hey Phlbert, Nice to hear from you. thanks for the insight, when I did the 86 4runner back in the early days which is way back I set that thing up perfectly and it cranked up on the first turn. I set it several times already, but you never know. I still maybe off by a tooth.

By the way let me know what brand of Gear oil you used on your tranny. I purchased the Napa's (valvoline manufactured) just to give it a try.



Hi CO_94_PU, thank for tuning in here, That is a good suggestion I didn't think of, I should have though as I just got through fiddling with my trusty corolla's IAC and testing it. I should of thought of that. As for the Idle adjustment, yup my bad just stuck with me to call it the idle adjust for the past 20 years even though I knew it just adjust the airflow

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Haven't worked on the truck this week yet, but I am desperate now to figure out whats off on the truck to get it started. I was going to work on it today, but the weather got the best of the day RAIN.

Something interesting came up the other day when I went fishing the other day with my son. I told him that the my original 86 4Runner came without back seats direct from Jacksonville, Florida off the Boat from Japan. When it arrived at the dealer they called me and I went to check it out. The seat were after markets seat that dealer installs before the sale. The owner of the dealership was a friend of mines at the time and he told me they came that way to reduce the high import taxes. Once the seats were installed they left me the piece in the truck which I was pretty happy with later as I saw the potential for it. I was told by my buddy that the trucks came in as a pickup truck (again do to import taxes) and where the seats go was a cargo bed piece that would flip up and down just like the seats, only the this metal piece was great to have as it would stop things from sliding forward and you really didn't mind getting it beat up rather than the seats. I still have it tucked away in my garage.

I am sure most of you all know what I am talking about or have this piece. I also heard that most of the dealers after installing the after market seats that they would just dump the metal cargo piece into the garbage. Luck for me they decide to put in the truck rather the dumpster. I'll see about taking a picture of it when I do get around to pulling it out.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I wish this winter would move out of here. It just wont go. We are to get a little snow mix tonite.

I just seen a post the other day that showed what that rear seat delete panel looked like. I had a basic idea of what one looked like and have never seen on in person, but now I know for sure when I do see one.

Jasons 86 and my 86 came with out the rear seats and is missing the panels. On both of our trucks, the POs made the rear seats. I know the panels came with different years, but from what I am gathering it seems mostly the 86 models was most likely to be missing rear seats. I am guessing the import tax was high back then.

The thread I seen recently, guess several are after that piece. If I didnt have kids, I would do away with my rear seats. I would post a pic of it as sure several others would like to see what it looks like. Until a few days ago I never seen one and still havent in person.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey Terry,
Weather for me down this way is great today. Cold for me is anything below 70^. Todays weather is 85^ and sunny.

I think you are right about those rear panels as my buddy had the 85 4Runner and it had the same seats as mine, but he didn't want the rear panel so he just left it at the dealer. After 87 I think they just brought them in without the rear panel and maybe with the seats with addition of the 3.0L V6. I'll will definitely post a picture of it.

As far as i was concerned back then It worked out great. When I would use the truck to haul or load stuff I would install the rear panel. When I would head out with friend or family I would have the seats. This made the seats last longer as the seats never laid down flat back then What I got for seats down hear where actually bench type rear seats not the split backs, but they would also fold forward like the split seats. Later I found a set of rear seats from a 90-91 4Runner and purchased those to put back there. Turns out I never got the chance to install them. I still have those 90-91 seats still wrapped in plastic in the garage waiting for me to rebuild the 86 4Runner. I also got the front bucket seats from the 90-91, but later realized that I would have to use the original tracks as the 90-91 trucks didn't require the same setup as the 2 doors since it was 4 doors. I will change the tracks to fit the 90-91 when i get started with that as well as I have seen many do this too.

Also looking at your post, Those wider mirrors work like a charm I prefer those as oppose to those smaller ones, even thought the smaller ones are sportier those wider ones you get to see more. I also bought a OEM pair in 1997 to put on the 86 4Runner as some one stole those right off the truck back then. I didn't put them on either as I made some brackets myself and purchased after market mirror and got lazy about putting the OEM pair on. They were kind of expensive for just plain mirrors. I plan on installing them on the 86 when I get started with that.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey all been trying to get this truck up and running. I thinking I may have to pull the engine out again and pull a few parts to get a better look at things. I'm going to do that yet with out looking through everything that is accessible to me at this point.

So far what I have done is work from right to left on the engine. I check all the spark plugs and cables and they look and read pretty good and check out good. I changed out the ignition coil with the coil from my 86 4Runner (no Luck). Sorry no picture of the 86 4Runner ignition Coil.

Here's a picture of the distributor from my 86 4Runner.



Reset the distributor several times (No Luck). Then took the distributor from the 86 4Runner (No Luck). Opened up the Valve cover to check the timing chain making sure it is timed correctly looks good TDC and check the basic gap settings and they look OK.

Moving over to the left of the engine, I decided to pull the the throttle and throttle body from the 86 4Runner and put on here just in case something was wrong after cleaning up this one. Still the same effect no thing. (Just a note on the 86 4Runner, after sitting for more than 10 years, the fuel has turned now to what smells like turpentine and it seems that some parts have rusted or corroded from the fuel sucking in moisture, meaning water in the line. I should have drained the gas from the tank just because of this it just means more work in retiring later.) Here's a picture of it installed on the 87:



Checked and changed out the fuel filter and still the same. Can't see the filter, but it's there in this picture:




Swapped out some of the fuel injectors from the 86, but one of them I couldn't and it is noticeable. There is a pin needle like point on the inside of the injectors that is visible, but on one of them from the 86 you can't see it. I'm assuming it is bad.

Here's a picture of it.

One from the 87 as you can see looking straight down the center there is a point. (Note the ones that came off the 86 where much finer than the ones from the 87) Sorry for the blurry picture:


And here's one that looks bad to me:



Changed out the IAC like Co_94_PU mentioned could be a problem, but nothing changed there as well.

Check the basic fuses all looks good.

Looking to try a few more stuff that I can think of.

Fuel Pump (jumping, fuse, etc...)
Fuel Pressure (Even if it seems like there's plenty, it maybe not enough)
Compression (going to freight harbor to see their set)
MAF (checking voltage) ($$$)
Cold start injector switch (I don't think this has anything to the problem)
Main Relay Circuit on the Drivers Side kick panel ($$$)
EFI Relay on the passenger side kick panel.
Solenoid Resistor ($$$)
Knock Sensor (really don't want to buy this $$$)

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Oh in case you all are wondering, I re-installed back the parts into the original truck.

coryc85

Junk - did you pull a plug and see if it was sparking? I'm not quite up to speed on all you have checked. Seems like you are pretty certain the timing is set, so we can move past that. If it starts at all, I would guess your EFI relay and main fuse are fine. Are you sure that you connected the ground wire back up from the intake? I think there's 2, but can't really remember right now. I honestly don't think the knock sensor would keep it from starting, but I could be wrong.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey Coryc85, I checked all that plus the plugs as well, but it doesn't mean I can't check it again. As for the knock sensor, I'd thought I'd through that in there just to cover my corners. There's the ground connecting connecting to the rear of the head to firewall, there's a ground at the intake in the middle where the plemun and manifold bolt up as well there is one a from the battery cable to a bolt just behind the AC. Something is off for sure stuck relay open switch I haven't a clue yet.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I might of missed it did you try the other VAFM, maybe it's a dead/worn spot or sticky?
Still leaning towards air flow issues, but it could be electrical or fuel I guess.

The resistor check is a simple "This many ohms" check, but you can also check the voltage and voltage drop under load. If it's droping to much power the injectors will be "laggy". But I'd kind of expect that to be worse with more RPMS not better. Which puts me back at air flow or sensor data at the ECM.


Good luck man and keep at it!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am going by your symptoms from the 26th. I am going to suggest checking your ground wires, Solenoid Resistor,EFI Main Relay. I have those items listed in this post >> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51897320 on post #664.

Here are vacuum line diagrams >> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52015812

Are you getting good fuel flow? I pull the line off of the rear of the fuel rail and let it run into a glass jar or something that I can see how fast it fills it. You will be able to get a good idea by the fuel flow. I am going to guess a quart a minute as a rough guess. I pull from the red connection on the left (Thanks Cyberhorn for the pic) and use the hose that is attached or I do have a hose just for this purpose to make it easier for testing.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Another great thread for 22RE ground wire locations:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hi Co_94_PU, you maybe right, I may have missed something, but I checked that IAC with my 86 and it does that same. I checked the resistance on the AFM/MAF and they come back within specs. Though I maybe missing something. I've double checked my wiring locations and all my vacuum lines. Weathers put me in down time as it was raining for a day or 2. I'm going to re-check the ground by check continuity between some parts to see if it actually making contact.

Thanks for the help every bit helps.


Hi Terry, I'm going to re-check those ground to make sure they are grounding, as well I should be able to check more things today considering the good weather we have today.

Those links helped out a lot. I'm going to check those cables wire for the injectors to see if I have a short in any of those. I think the fuel is good along with the Fuel Pump. I jump those points FP to +B and the pump works when I turn the ignition on so that should be good. As to clog fuel line, It might be, but before I take that apart again I'm going after those easy items to get to before that even though I can take it apart in about 15minutes.

Thanks, any other ideas to me find something I maybe missing would be greatly appreciated.

My neighbor may stop by today to help look it over as 2 eyes are better than one. I think I've mentioned this before he's an airplane mechanic, so it helps out a lot for see things that may be hidden to my eyes.


Hi Philbert, Thanks... I saw your thread from your overheating and saw the time you had with your truck. Been a really good help. Thanks

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Well, today I did a couple of things. I swapped the starter relay and the resistor solenoid, did think I needed to swap the starter relay but heck it doesn't hurt.

Did the distributor again today just to double check myself.

Checked the relays under the driver side kick panel and all seems AOK.

Going to pull the cover off tomorrow and check the chain again just to make sure.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey All been playing around with the truck and no luck getting it started. Just to recheck myself I went over a few things again.

10 Ground:



Firewall to Head Check



Ground at Intake, Check


Ground just below Power steering and Alternator, check



Ground at Fender just to the left of Battery



Ground just behind AC Compressor, Check

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Next up was the Distributor:



Set the timing at 5 degrees.



Before inserting the dizzy the rotor is lined up with the stamped image of the rotor and the set bolt nut hole is centered.



This is after inserting it it's pretty much at 1100.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Still no luck getting it running, but I'm going to open the valve cover and check that timing chain. I don't think it would be off by a tooth, but it doesn't hurt to check it out.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Checked everything that I could think of. Looking at the chain I've notice the links are no longer set the way I had originally put it in. I suspecting the chain jumped or I must have moved it when I was putting things together. I have looked over everything, so I am suspecting this. here's everything I have checked so far.

1) Checked Grounding
2) Checked and re-checked Distributor (Checked with 86 4Runner Part)
3) Check for Spark
4) Checked Compression
5) Check for TDC making sure it's not off 180^
6) checked AFM (tested resistance) and checked with ignition on and flapper to see if fuel pump turns on.
7) Checked IAC (Checked with 86 4Runner Part)
8) Check fuel pressure
9) Check ignition coil (Checked with 86 4Runner Part)
10) Checked Solenoid resistor (Checked with 86 4Runner Part)
11) Checked Fuel Pump
12) Checked EFI Replay (Checked with 86 4Runner Part)
13) Checked Fuses
14) And I thought this would be important check for Fuel in Tank
15) Check Fuel Regulator (Checked with 86 4Runner Part)
16) Check EGR to Fuel Regulator
17) Check TPS
18) Check Injectors (swapped 3 from 86 4Runner)
19) Check Electrical to Injectors
20) Check ECU (Checked with 86 4Runner Part)
21) Checked all Vacuum hoses for leaks

All these things checked out pretty much to the best that i can check them (maybe better ways to check them out), but I'm thinking the Timing Chain maybe off. The only way to check that out is by removing the timing chain cover. I'd hate to take that head off, I will try the way some people have done so by taking only the timing cover off. Seeing as i put Copper seal spray on the head gasket it may be highly unlikely that it will come off with any success. I am ordering a head gasket to prepare for the worst. It doesn't matter if I don't use the HG as I will need it anyhow for the more I pulled out of this truck that will be rebuilt for the 86 4Runner.

Let's hope I am wrong, but today that will be what I am looking at the Timing chain.

coryc85

Hey junk, why can't you just pull the valve cover and look at the dimple on the cam timing gear? It should be right about 12 o'clock with the crank at TDC, right? If that is correct, then you did not jump a tooth. So you can put the crank at TDC, check the dimple, then look at the rotor, if all of those are where they are supposed to be, then your chain is fine. I'm pretty sure that those bright links on the chain line up only when you first install, and then after that it would take you many revolutions of the engine to get those bright links right back where they go. Remind us again, does the engine fire at all ?

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey Cory, hope you don't mind me shortening your handle. I've had some time free today so I was out pulling parts. Took off the Belts and pulley, PS pump, AC compressor, radiator, etc... Getting ready to try and pull the timing cover off. Got it all out of the way and set the timing at TDC pulled the Dizzy and then opened the valve cover. The Bright mark on the links was top center but don't know about the crank sprocket, but most likely it should be. Decided to check out the rotation to get the link back at TDC and it takes 4 full rotations on the cam sprocket which means 8 on the crank. When the bright link is at TDC and you rotated again the link is around 900 hours, rotated it again and the bright link can not be seen rotated again the link is at 1500 hours and the on the 4th rotation its back at 1200 hours. As far as i knew, it would take exactly 4 rotations to get the bright link back at the top.

So, I'm putting back every thing now that it doesn't look like it would be the timing chain, plus my neighbor the airplane mech came by and I showed him the way it set and he said it's perfect.

I'm going to run and get some starter fuel and spray it in the throttle body to see if it stays running longer. After that I'm going to try and spray in the engine bay around the vacuum lines to see if the engine cranks and stays running while I'm spraying. If that works then I'm going to have to assume that the injectors are faulty (even though they are from the 86) or there is a problem with the electric to injector signal(Need to recheck that). Other wise everything looks good (doesn't mean it is good)

sure am glad I really don't have to tear down that motor to at the chain again.

Oh and yes she cranks and runs for a few seconds, but dies right after. My neighbor said it cranks real nice for the seconds that it runs.

By the way haven't heard from that guy with the 4Runner for sale, he might of sold it.