junk4u

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First off I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and hope you guys have a good one.


No problem on the bins, thought everyone should know that figures out how hard it is to get those bolt the right size and length and what it means to have it available and organized.

I did the same on that pipe under the intake mani, it seems that area gets hot and that o-ring degrades pretty fast. My neighbor was going to get a o-ring from work as he works as a airplane mech and they use that industrial o-rings, but i wanted to seal it up before he brought it over. Never got that industrial ring in, but like you put a like rtv there and it should hold a little better.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

By the way Terrys87, if I haven't said it before I haven't said it enough, YOU'VE GOT ONE HECK OF A BUILD/BUILDING INSTRUCTION GOING ON YOUR BUILD-UP I REALLY ENJOY THE PICS.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!!! My long term goal is to get a thread built that someone can go thru it and fix alot of the problems and one thing I am fairly proud of is that most can be done for free and only a handful cost in the $25 range. Some I found on the net and some I found out on desperation. It may not look like it now, but I do have a lot of time wrapped up in just what I got now trying to get the pictures and all of the information moved over to it. It will be a while yet before I turn it into a thread, but am really hoping it helps people out as I have struggled to finding some of the information. Thanks again.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey all it's been a while since I last posted as you can see by the dates about 3 months Plus Minus. been busy, but have had time to on and off to work on the truck (bits and Pieces). I haven't taken any pics, but I'll list what I've done since the last time I posted.

1) Purchased Transmission to Engine Bolt from Toyota (they price matched the online pricing so it was a big discount)
2) Purchased from Toyota new pilot bearing (only 9 bucks from the dealer) NAPA was more...
3) Received a new clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing.
4) Mounted the Transmission/tranfercase and connected all the cabling.
5) Mounted the Engine into the bay and the transmission.
6) connected most of the wire harness, doing a little at a time so not to miss anything and at the same time connected what ever vacuum lines as i go.
7) Installed the exhaust manifold to motor, not yet to exhaust pipe as the bolt broke and trying to get a new bolt. (originally these did not have bolts they where designed with factory studs and nuts, but whom ever worked on it before changed that. Still trying to figure out if i want to go back to studs which i thought would be better as the nuts would be easier to remove than bolts.

That's all I've been able to do over the past 3 months, but I'm slowly getting there. I'm almost 75% done hooking everything up before I can actually give a crank and see if it'll start up. Hopefully it'll start up with out to much trouble.

By the way I also opened up the engine that was in this truck and even though this engine was rebuilt (hard to tell when or how many miles it actually had) and covered in grease as can be seen on prior photos, the upper and lower pan area was clean as a puppy almost as if they had done the job yesterday. Haven't gotten around to a actual tear down to see how much is actually worn down to see how much actually is worn out on the pistons, the time guides wear broken and on the bottom pan so something is definitely worn out there maybe the tensioner. Well, I'll get to that once I finish up with this 87 runner and start on the 86 runner.

That's it for now.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

One more question or Trivia...

Why is the the 4Runners still called the 4Runner?

From 1984 to 1989 (First Generation) the 4Runner came standard 4wheel drive (my understanding back in the 80's when talking to Toyota back then as the dealer (Zinn Motors) was a friend of a friend when I purchased my new 4Runner in 86 was the reason the name was given 4runner 4wheel Drive and a combination of Pre-Runners).

From 1989(2nd Generation) to Present the 4Runners come 2wheel drive with the option for 4wheel drive. What gives? Those 2 wheelers should be considered a 2Runner...

coryc85

Hey junk4u, glad to see you are making some progress. I found 2 u pull it yards up in palm beach county that have some 4runner/pickup stuff according to their website. One of these days I'm going to head up there. There is nothing in broward.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see some familiars here too, its been a while and I'm sure I'll be popping in and out. Same here nothing in Dade County, they mostly have new model cars and trucks nothing dating back 20yrs it seems. Seems like here in Dade and Broward most of these older vehicles get scrap to the scrap yard to be shredded. Jacksonville, Gainesville and Orlando seem to have a few of these still sitting around.

If anyone needs the exhaust manifold from a 1993 22re I've got one of those, couldn't really use it on the 87 as the hole for the O2 sensor in the 93 was moved to the rear near the catalytic converter. FREE only pay for shipping and these days that cost more than the average parts.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

I found some Pipe Clamps at Lowes 11/16 to 1 1/4". I am changing some of the clamps because the original OEM ones have rusted and are getting hard to remove. The reason is the good price for them and they are stainless steel. $0.87 for a pack of 2. You can't beat that price unless you get it wholesale.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Clipped a few photos of where I am at now on the engine here are a few, so for the quality, I forgot to clean the lens on my phone as I keep putting it in my pocket and the lens keeps getting dirty, but you'll get the gists of it.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, i forgot to flip the photos they are of the me looking up from the side of the truck.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Okay, anyone have an idea if it would be a good idea to put a 1 3/4" adjustable pipe clamp on the exhaust pipe to tranny mount? It was taken off be one of the prior owner or mechanics and never replaced. Of course i would consider this to keep it from rattling and it would be stainless steel to help keep it from rusting.

Here's a image of the part in red that I'm talking about.



Let me know if anyone has any better ideas, as you can see the number shown is actually for the bolt and I can't locate a sku, besides I can see from my 86 they rust out pretty good so I'd prefer stainless any how.

coryc85

Man that engine and transmission looks good! As for the hose clamp on the exhaust to tranny bracket, I think that would be fine.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Coryc85, looking to crank it up this week, but need a few things.

Looks like your doing great with your truck.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Just posted a question on Gear Oil and Motor Oil to see which one I should use on the tech forum.

Check it out:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52057515

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Engine and tranny look great. I like Castrol Oil and use the Synthetic blend. I go with what Toyota recommends. Some of these trucks have never seen a gear oil change and are still going strong some 20 some years later. Toyota did their home work on that. Hope it fires up for you and all goes well.

I think the clamp will work for you.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Hey Terrys87, thanks for the reply. I've been lurking over your buildup and saw you had problem with those AC Compressors. I am trying to get a hold of a company here in Miami who carries rebuild parts, but like when it seems to good its hard get. Found them on ebay and saw they where in Miami,but can't seem to get a hold of anyone. They are about 20 miles up the road from me I might take a drive to talk to them or just give them a call. I would rebuild a compressor just to have a spare seeing as how old they are you never know. i can send you a PDF similar to the FSM, but with more pics that I have, just PM where you want it sent if you need it.

As far as the Gear oil for the tranny I ended up with Napa's Gear oil made by Valvoline. The only part that kind of worries me is the part where it says GL-5, GL-4 and GL-3 compatible. Can't count on Napa employees to know even though they say its no problem they are just there to sell the product. The toyota dealer don't sell GL-4 I don't even know if they even use the stuff. Jerry507 on another post I made about this gave me a link to dealers in my area and it so happens they are right down the road from napa and the toyota dealer for MT-90 redline. I already purchased Napas gear oil so i'll run that till I am sure that the tranny is AOK.



As for the motor oil, I went and got 10W30 Mobil oil conventional oil, and it's funny I walked in yesterday to the dealer to pickup some injector o-rings and insulators and saw the brand they recommended was mobil and 10W30 on display. I also asked them about the gear oil and that's when they told me they don't sell it.

As far as firing up, ha... I got everything together and cranked it up and saw fuel leaking. Since I couldn't see where it was coming from that's when i took apart the intake to get a better look and notice the #4 injector leaking (new 0-rings). I pulled the injectors and I guess when I put them in I must have pinched the o-ring. That's the reason for me running into the dealer yesterday. Sometime these after market parts aren't to specs that they don't fit properly as this was the case. It was tough getting them in and I didn't like the feel the first time anyhow. as it turned out the new toyota o-rings slid right in. Got all that done and the truck still wouldn't fire up, adjusted the distributor and finally after turning the distributor forward it fired up only for a few seconds then died.

Took out the set bolt and turned it way beyond and cranked it and it fired up for a little longer before stalling. Pulled the distributor out and reset it a tooth and cranked it up and it fired up for a few seconds and died. I'm going to have to check the vacuum hoses and the timing again to make sure that everything is good.

One thing I'll never understand is why they when setting the distributor that the timing mark has to be set at 5^ rather than 0^ for 22re's with EFI.

So this week it's off to checking timing and hoses.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Okay I've been playing with the truck on and off. Looking at the hoses looking for fuel leaks. nothing leaking so far, looked over the vacuum lines looks good.

Got in the truck this time and fired up except this time I pumped the gas and it stays running very rough if I keep my foot down on the pedal, let it go it stalls. Adjusted the fuel and air mixture screw and still the same, fires up and stalls after a second. Looking at the fuel pump or the cold start switch to see if there is a problem there.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Also thinking about the Fuel Filter, Injectors, or a sensor like the cold start sensor near the throttle. Also, I have an extra fuel filter that was taken from another 22re. Don't know it is good. I hope I didn't mix the two up and put the older one on there. I guess I have to check that out.

coryc85

Junk, I don't think these trucks have a fuel/air mixture screw, the computer takes care of that, I believe you are talking about the idle set screw. Have you adjusted the TPS? I know you checked and double checked the timing. True, the cold start switch could be bad, you can check it's resistance to see if it's good. How's your fuel pump? Supposedly you can pull the cold start injector from the intake, leave all the elecrical and fuel connected and have someone crank the engine with coil wire removed, you should see a good spray of fuel. I've never done that, so don't go by my words.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like the same symptoms I had when I was off a tooth on the dist.

Are you sure about the 5* btdc setting for the crank pulley, when installing the dist.? There is a mark on the dist. Drive gear that you have to line up just right (when at 0* btdc I believe). I was off one tooth and it did the sputter and die thing.